Thanks man. Been building PCs for 30 years and I've never not been able to figure out something like this!

Never seen a m.2 slot like this, really weird. Thank you for the clarity

no grounding? You supposed to ground the cables running alongside the wall, before terminating it to your satellite receiver.

Thanks. this helped me today couldnt figure out why they designed it to not sit flush. didnt see the little peice on the standoff

do you know why i don’t have te turbo ratio opcion in my bios, he it’s made for oc but this option doesn’t exist, you thing i need a 1600mhz ram to do that? because my ram is running at 1333 but actually is for 1600

thank you very much, I had same issue with my bluetooth dropping out of my device manager, I have the B460 motherboard, just reinstalling the wireless driver and rebooting did the trick for me!

Stupid design. A 4mm socket is too small, 5mm too big...

Mate, you are a life saver! Thank you so much for posting this incredibly helpful video!

Thanks so much, I got really confused after watching build videos where the ssd would just fit in without unscrewing the top bit first. Most of these builds featured an SSD from Samsung, not WD. Not sure if it got something to do with it. Thanks again!

Thanks bud! Was reluctant to use pliers at first but it had to be done....

My screw doesn’t come off on my heat sink. there’s a washer at the end of the screw ? do I try to take it off or leave it ?

Thank you very much, things like this should be in the manual.

How would you accurately know where thr drill will be coming through on the inside?

Awesome! It works! Thanks

Thanks so much! Didn't know about the 2nd piece to the post, nearly broke my M.2, saved me time and money. Much appreciated!

Thank you fo r this video!! where is Gigabye with this explanation??! Only sugestion I would make would be to take the labels off your SSD as they will act as a thermal insulator between the ICs and the thermal pad.

Thanks this really helped

Just for info, as I've read and heard a lot of people comment about the grey heat sink above the black M.2 heat sink, even pro building channels! It's not for decoration it's a heat sink for the VRM via the heatpipe and the chipset which is located below the M.2 drive, that's why it does not make contact with the M.2 heatsink and straddles it. If you leave it off you will often see lower temps for your M.2 drive, as it's exposed rather than being in a tunnel like metal shroud. The trade off though is you'll have higher temps in your chipset and VRM. If you're not pushing your board and your ambient temperature isn't too high it shouldn't be an issue, but it's there for a reason and it does have a purpose. I would recommend people leave it on if it's not causing an issue with clearance for other components like a low set CPU cooler. If you have to remove it you should ideally monitor your temperatures and if they are high, consider supplementary cooling for that area, like a fan for directing air flow that way. If you run your board hot all the time, best case you may reduce it's working life, worst case it could fail. Very helpful video for installing the M.2 drive though, as a lot of new builders can be confused by that second retaining nut.

Thank you soooo much sir!

Dean thank you so much for this video. Very well detailed video

I have 2 Freesat boxes does it matter in which order I connect wires to lnb?

Thanks for the video. Last time I installed an m2 drive (my first ever) I heard a loud snap which was the driving breaking because I didn’t remove the intermediate mounting screen

is it working now?

So beautiful. Private space for those who want quiet.

2 years later and you just solved my problem! Thank you!!

Thanks for sharing!

Hi I was wondering if you could help me. I replaced rusty f connectors on coaxial cables running from the satellite quad lnb. Now I have a strange problem I can't figure out I put all everything back as it was before I touched it but now one of the rooms loses the connection when a satellite box is turned off in the other rooms and it only works if a box is turned on in another room Thanks

You seem wise

well done. Finally a good video for this card. thx huge help

Did you fix it?

Hey I found your video online and it may be able to help me. I'm having an odd issues with this board paired with a 5600X. I'm getting an unusual spike in temperature at bootup only (Windows 11) for about a minute and was wondering if my settings are the reason for it.

I just set up a 7900x system with a ASUS motherboard.. I've noticed that the bios updates have come a long way to fix memory issues... i still wouldn't run more than 2 sticks and would make sure that the memory you buy is validated to work on your motherboard.

Same issues here with 7700x 4x8gb DDR5 5600Mhz ,Only works with 2x Dimms , when i use 4 it constantly crashes

It is painful to address those issue without having spare parts to swap with. If you are in the return windows, just return cpu, motherboard and ram all together. If you passed return window. You could try following things. Sometimes, you have to buy extra components to swap with. Make sure you can return it afterwards. 1. Try to limit temperature to 85c. On default 95c, it seems to crash occasionally on my build (7950x). 2. Try to disable expo. If that fixes the issue, the issue is most memory related. 3. Try to stress test without GPU installed. For your information, my G.Skill Flare x5 DDR5-5600 16GBx2 expo kit was faulty. Sometimes my system would not reboot, got stuck at dram training. Two sticks behaved same when tested individually (bad batch?). Swapping with a new kit fixed my issue. Always start from simple things, such as memory sticks, cpu. Motherboard should be the last thing to be swapped.

And folks say Intel is a sinking ship lol. Just because bad revenue. i hope you could fix it. by the way i went with 13600k / 4080 RTX Gamerock OC. I have zero problems. My cpu runs air cooled at 5.7 GHZ P cores / 4.2 GHZ E-Cores

Thanks for the vid. really helpfull.

7950x and x670e Aorus Master and I've also been having issues. Can't do any memory or cpu overclocking (incld. expo & pbo). 4x32GB is not a good config for AM5. but even 2x32 I'm seeing instability

Crazy, I have zero issues but I went 13900k and 4090. Overclocked it to 5.8ghz on all p cores and 4.6 on all ecores scores 43k on r23 and doesn’t exceed 80c with my custom loop. I also have a aorus motherboard and love it. Sucks to see you having issues brother and amd wasn’t cheap this go around either.

happened to me before kinda went away on its own or I got lucky through trial and error. curious what does your event viewer say?

I have the same motherboard with a 7950X. I think this is just one of those classic early adopter pains. The consensus seems to be that the memory controller on Ryzen 7000 is just not very mature given that its their first product with DDR5, especially with four sticks. Intel 12th gen was the same way. This was my experience with it and RAM: Bought a kit of 2x32 GB G.skill trident Z5 6000 MHz (So I think something close to what you have, except it has XMP and not EXPO). It ran fine at 6000 MHz with XMP on. I ended up returning this kit and got two 2x32GB (so 128GB total) of g.skill ripjaws S5 6000 MHz. It would not boot two sticks with XMP on. It would, however, boot at 6000 MHz but with all timings kept at auto. This tells me that either the motherboard or the memory controller (or both) are just finicky when it comes to certain timings at higher frequencies. I stress tested 4x32GB with memtest86 up to 4800 MHz with timings on auto and it was stable and error-free for 10+ hrs. I have not attempted to go above 4800 MHz as I just don't think seeking out 5 ish percent more performance is worth the time and energy. Just my humble opinion which you absolutely do not have to listen to: Overpaying for components suck, but constant troubleshooting that prevents you from using them at all sucks more. Stress test the memory using memtest86 and keep it at the highest setting at which it is stable and error-free. Then either call it a day or return the memory and try again with a different kit. If you keep it then just consider it future proofing for when AMD improves the memory controller or when BIOS updates fix things. 6000 MHz will probably serve you well in to the future, regardless of whether or not annoying early adopter bugs prevent you from running it at that speed right now. AMD calls 6000 MHz the "sweet spot" , which kind of makes it seem like if you don't run it at that speed that the performance will drop off suddenly or something. It doesn't. I noticed maybe a 10% difference between 3600 MHz and 6000 MHz when putting all 32 threads under load and maybe 5% between 4800 MHz and 6000 MHz. The equivalent single-threaded test had no difference within the margin of error. I would guess that it just doesn't matter very much except for extremely memory-intensive workloads. In a blind test most people probably couldn't tell the difference for many applications.

I say the mobo

Why would anyone waste their money on a 4090? Unless the price comes down substantially you should never support these corporations when they try to play the consumer for a fool. 😞

Been there in the past.. It's just a shame that you spend you're hard earned money on quality components only to have a nightmare experience.

Have you tried another psu?

Try running EXPO2 settings. Expo1 allows the MB to auto adjust the timings and EXPO2 sets them exactly how the ram sticks are rated for

This looks like a gigabyte mb issue rather then 7000 ryzen issue. GB boards are notoriously bad with ram compatibility and timings and not only on ryzen system. on 12th gen intel they were even more craptastic.

I had the same problem with the 7900x. Literally did everything I could and gave up. Returned it to MC and went intel...13700k ddr4 MSI MB and 4080fe. So happy now. No issues. Hope everything went well with you!

I have two systems running 7000 series. ones a 7700x and other is 7950x and not having the issues you are reporting here. Biggest issue is long boot times.

my 5200 mhz sticks don't boot unless they are 4800 mhz

Thanks a lot, I was struggling to remove the standoff and didn’t think to use pliers!