Thank you! Happy to help.

My pleasure, so glad you found value. “End-run not popping up” sounds like a pressure problem. You can also try capping off a few of the upstream heads, or changing their nozzles to a very small/low flow rate, to test the theory. Pressure is a pretty big issue that is not recognized by irrigation control manufacturers. If interested, I can send you a wireless unit that you can thread into your backflow preventer, to measure the pressure every 2 minutes and display it in a graph overtime. Just something new that I have been working on.

From the Home Screen click Settings and then Wireless Settings. If you don’t see your network make sure you are in range, and your wireless is 2.4g. Take a look at page #27 here: www.hunterindustries.com/sites/default/files/rc-081-qg-hcc-web.pdf

Good points. Have you looked into the Rid-O-Rust systems?

@@Andy_Humphrey I’ve only read nothing but bad about that system. Chemicals way too expensive, the vessels weaken & crack in the Florida sun etc.

If your sprinklers have typical spray nozzles, the precipitation rate is roughly 1 in/hr. You could switch the nozzle to a rotator-style nozzle, and the precipitation rate will drop to about 0.40-.50. That will apply half the amount of water as the other nozzles on the zone. This is generally not recommended because it would result in a potential dry spot, but in your case, it's perfect!

@@Andy_Humphrey thank you!

Could be a few things. Yes, check prime. Is it possible there is a break in the line, and the pump can’t keep up?

Nice, good choice 👌

My pleasure, glad it was helpful. This is one of the most common questions we receive from end users. The MP Rotator is heavily marketed by Hunter, EPA, Water Agencies, etc, and it unclear to many that the product is not a sprinkler, it’s a nozzle. Reach out anytime with question. Would love to see your work.

The Irritrol 102P2 can be configured as Normally Open. Aldo check Superior valves.

Take the cap off when it’s time to blow it out. If the sprinkler is at the top of the hill, it’ll drain, so you really all need to focus on the sprinklers that are the lowest on the zone.

If the screw that holds the nozzle in place, is tightened down to diffuse the spray pattern, the distribution uniformity is now uneven (for Rotors). Typically for spray heads, you can only diffuse the distance 20% or so. It is best to pick the nozzle for the correct distance; if 10 feet is desired, choose 10 feet. +/- 2 or 3ft is often acceptable, 5ft would be too much.

I don’t know specifically, but it is a good idea to keep the foot valve off the bottom. I have seen intakes that resemble a PVC drain pipe with holes drilled in it. I have also seen floating intakes. I’ll try to remember what the PVC drain pipe intake is called, if I recall, it’s on a ski/skid you slide into the water.

We can get these for you, and likely have them available for you to pick up locally. Can you contact us on Monday?

I'll definitely contact you on Monday,, Have you got an email where I can message you

info at sprinklersupplystore dot com

@enricoocaschera5181 - We have the Hunter PCBs available in our Calgary shipping location you could pick up. I will let customer service know that that you may be in touch with us. Feel free to call, (231) 486-5001. www.hunterindustries.com/sites/default/files/CA-Cutsheet-Bubblers-US.pdf

You’re welcome. Let us know how it goes!

The max distance is determined by the wire size. The booster is essentially an extender, and could be mounted next to the Pump Start Relay at the pump, or anyplace before it.

I agree. Have you tried the JLab over the ear with Noise Canceling? These have become my go-to. www.jlab.com/products/epic-air-sport-anc-true-wireless-earbuds-gen-2-black

Correct. It is best to remove the cap during the blowout process if possible.

My pleasure, Frank!!

🤙

Because I use a leittt 4000 solar controller and it only uses DIG Lema 1600 solonoids and it’s such a hassle to have to use so many different solonoids I would rather stick with rainbird but rainbird does now use battery’s like this hunter controller

@@sandia4775typically, yes, solenoids are controller agnostic. But DIG does have special solenoids with their LEIT controller so I will need to check.

Not a sticking valve, there's a wire issue and wanted to place a battery pack on for now but it doesn't close the valve, is the o ring supposed to go in a specific spot?

100% !!

Yup, poured concrete works even better 😅

No

What options do we have? Buy the entire unit and only take the diaphragm out?

How large is your system? Probably still worth the price. You can fix/repair every other part on your system, and paying for the proper Winterization is usually worth it.

@@Andy_Humphrey like 7 zones ..

Yes, the riser will still pop up, not sure if that’s good or bad for you. It becomes kind of an indicator.

It is generally recommended to install a pressure regulator if your pressure is over 50psi. The drivers are pressure compensating, however the fittings are rated to 50 without clamps.

It’s possible that there is debris under the solenoid so that the diaphragm is not opening all the way, causing it to whine. I’d start there. Remove the solenoid and check the list under it. You may need to remove the entire top of the valve to clean the port properly.

You could also try replacing the solenoid with another one on your system and see if the noise stops.

@@Andy_Humphrey Thank you, Andy!

Thank you! Beginners luck, I suppose. This was my first video. Glad it helped, and I'm here if you need anything in the future.

I don’t have any experience in that area but I would imagine there is something similar.

Thanks!

Thanks! I will add it to the list.

The panel is the same regardless of the number of zones. Good luck out there and have fun.

At first, I thought the screw under the solenoid was just a plug, but then I looked at the part breakout diagram and saw that it was also a filter. Here is a link to the diagram: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1987/5531/files/Rain_Bird_GB_Parts.png?v=1720461940