Joe looks more like the bottom figured he'd be the on getting his Crack filled in

Genius idea here... Manufacturer should make one side of that board insulation look like an actual wood wall.

He sold spray foam on how it’s so good it won’t leak. And he sold them on a new roof . This guy don’t know nothing bout spray foam. Go in a home that’s spray foamed vs these you will feel the difference I guarantee you

Spray foam all day !

@G.A.N.G101 what size Allen wrench are you using to removed that fastener on the level sensor? I went through the whole set and couldn’t find one that fit.

Nice sarcophagus.

take those 6 extra 4x8 sheets of 3" foam and build yourself a Foamy camper. Just youtube that if you dont know what im talking about.

After washing my hands after the rat manure cleaning, I would replace the original straight steering column with a compatible safety power steering system from GM.(mechanical parts always fit Chevys of different years) Then, reinforce the cabin, floor, doors and roof to today's crash protection standards. Find a chassis, a running engine and transmission, and interiors. The rest is a long work to bring that 1957 Bel Air classic to showroom condition. Don't forget to add seat belts and install front disc brakes with a brand new power brakes AC booster and double master cylinder and new brake lines and parts. A drivable safety equipped classic is worth the the spending for long lasting miles trips. Good luck. Thanks.

7.3 or 12v they will last longer than us

A 7.5HP motor requires a minimum of 12 or so KVA to start without a soft-start device - not surprising it didn't run it. You are misleading viewers since you're using 120V devices with the small compressor and the welder. Were they all on separate legs or the same? Also, it shows that you did not hook up the neutral connection with that rigged suicide cord to your building. How about wiring things up properly, using 240V capable appliances at 240 volts, or running the small air compressor on one leg and the welder on the other and re do this?

Allowing an air space between the panels and the exterior wall will give you some additional R-Value.

OK so, in Florida I should put the reflector upward to keep the heat in the attic area to be vented outward with the ventilation ribs.......

I hope you really sealed out the holes or gaps, or you will be supporting critters for all time.

Spray foam is so messy, and its disgusting odor will last for years! The cuttings of the foam will literally get anywhere , it's a nightmare to fix electricity if you spray, and if you spray your celling! The structure will not vent..

7.3

I actually am interested in what the floor is.

I'm building a metal building...I am thinking of installing 10m on the outside before I sheet the walls and roof

The generator isn’t the problem Einsteins.

ty

Sad you guys didn't have a good experience with that Predator 9500 - Mines works great and it powers my home with a 5 tone AC unit w/Soft start, 2 refrigerators, 2 ceiling fans, sump pump and kitchen lights. Maybe you guys got a lemon.

The debate between panels and spray foam and left versus right Twix will rage on. Useful info, however, is here. Just got a quote 4 days ago, 6/14/24 for 2" on walls and 3" on roof, closed cell, 30 x 40 x 10 eave: $11,000. NW of Dallas about 90 miles. These guys claimed $16k for the same size building when the video was made. I don't recall if they mentioned the thickness of the quote they mention.

Phil McCrackin approves this video.

My dad owned a 68 fury 3. It had four doors and didn't have the Bucket seats. The Dash was the same though.

Very good insulation R less than 1, good stuff yes not for me any ways. I have already used that crap to try to insulate the garage side of a huge garage door, waste of money.

Before you buy generation, you must calculation how many jump power you need in?

you put it upside down, the silver to the top, but most of the time you put it under your roof so any moisture collected runs down and out, putting it on the flat will allow pooling of moisture

After watching your video I think I'll go with the foam board like you did. Seems easier for a DIY job and less expensive.

You too are subtle but hilarious…beevis and butthead

How can you expect to run a whole shop……I do not agree with these guys….i bought one 2 years ago and it’s an AWESOME GENERATOR ….

so this NEVER GOT DONE???

Im in Hvac business and even I'm not in the spray foam business i highly recommend spray foam, but if you low on budget the next option is the board, but spray foam is the best product so far.

you ruin the presentation by using stupid puerile crack jokes

What do you plan to do to prevent condensation under the roof metal and trusses/purlins?

Only problem I would have with this generator is the 90 day warranty, Harbor Freight is not real confident about it.

Well - they've just created a mold petri dish out of that garage.

What gasses? What are you talking about? Are you super chemist to make this conclusion?

Useless

ALL foam is extremely flammable. YES, ALL OF IT!!! Anyone that says different is lying. If I were going to insulate anything, rockwool would be my first choice.

Guys thought about continuing the foam boards under the metal roof between the trusses? Open trusses could be nice for storing stuff like scrap wood. That ceiling looks like a chore.

Gunna spund crazy but I promise it's well worth it. Buy a thermal digital gun with a screen showing you where heat or cold air is leaking so you can better take care of any leaky areas. Works stupidly amazing. You just don't need anything 300$+ something from Amazon for 130-180$ would do just fine. Or even the one at harbor freight I believe that I'd 209$ but that's what I got. You only need to screen to show you the area that's cooler/warmer/hotter/colder then the surrounding areas so you know there's a leak of air coming from that spot. You don't need the screen to be superhighway resolution just use it for the different temp changes and it will work great!

Is this foam board good for walls and cathedral ceilings for a house?

Hey, can you try this? Switch off the Eco mode if it has one. That should put it at full power from the start. Motor start will still be a problem but I wonder how it will do on the welder. It is a big jolt of power when strike a spark. Let us know if it does better with that mode if it even has an Eco switch. I just looked on the HF website and I can't see one on the 9500 but IDK??

One year ago, and no update on what was done with this 57.

Now that you have added all that extra weight to your garage doors, you have exceeded the design weight of the door springs. If you don't, at least re-balance your door, you will prematurely destroy any opener you put on it because it's too much weight for the gears in the opener. Even by re-balancing the door, you are adding more stress to the spring than it was designed for and it will prematurely fail, too. THE CORRECT thing to do was to order insulated doors that come with the correct springs.

4:40 ! Yes big health risk if not cured Properly. And still needs to be ventilated always gases off some what .

Customers didnt make the prices tho. Just want to live.😊

Don't let the moisture from in side get into the attic. Moisture retarder sealed up. Building science. Bubble foil is NOT r-12. Are you heating with infrared heat?

You installed EPS, not poly iso. The R-value of EPS is 5 per inch, while poly iso is around 6-7 per inch. Spray foam will get into every little crack and help air seal the building envelope. I would definitely use EPS panels for a garage or out building, as the cost difference is significant.

I never buy American car anymore

Put the vapor barrier on backwards… 🤦🏾‍♂️