If rules allowed it, I would of flipped the endbell 180 degrees to get the timing back positive. Also slimming the pinion up for less weight. But sounds like a stock racing class. Should make a milliohm meter for $1 from lm317 and 12.5Ω resistor to check things like wire to pickup brush resistance, pickup to track and other things.

Been doing this since 1978 on RC cars, we call it water dipping. The water does not help conduct more current. I holds the motor rpm low from the drag, thus higher current with less CEMF. Before = 21700rpm, After=26500rpm=22% improvement?????? What, 4,800 rpm slower = improvement? Breaking the brushes in, creates more brush duration (aka overlap, 2 pole windings being powered at the same time), this gives more rpm and torque in my decades experience on 05 Mabuchi and Johnson motors. I am really surprised you lost that much rpm (and claiming lower rpm is 22% improvement), thoughts?

How do I buy the product? II am from Spain

Hi James I'm very new to the hobby. Had a question. Can this kind of mod be done on a Palma controller with the wound resistor? On do you need a board with the resistor network? Sorry if I sound stupid

The newer fets with under 1mΩ are better than relays for a many reasons: 1. More voltage to car (less resistance = more power) 2. Can easily be placed inside the plug (less wire resistance = more power) 3. Quicker response, relays are generally 10 to 20ms (0.02s) delay, fets can easily be under 100ns (0.000,000,1). (or ~200,000 times quicker response = quicker lap time) 4. More reliable 5. No clickity clack 6. Smaller 7. And lower cost Literally a win win! Pun intended.

I always add timing for more rpm, especially since the motor does not race in reverse.

A sharpie on the comm makes it very easy to see the progress. Right before the last lathe pass, we clean the gap, and then use the ballpoint pen, then the last pass, this keeps a sharp edge on the comm to keep the brushes clean. In 10th scale 4 minute races we did not notice a difference , but 12th scale 8 minutes racing it did make a diff.

I never understand why they use Darlington transistor. At worst case you mentioned 20A, the transistor will have ~2 volt drop (12 - 2 = 10), so you car will be at 10v and then the full throttle switch kicks in and the throttle jumps ~17%. If I were to design a new controller, i would use a hall effect sensor, 200A 1mΩ FET (at the track terminals, bypassing all the controller wiring and almost zero delay, unlike the relay has), another fet for braking. This would have a finer control over the current, no steps and could add throttle curves/etc. I would probably add a instantaneous led ammeter (this can show how well the pickup shoes/make contact to the track (checking for pickup or track issues) and some other useful stuff. My last power supply and gun I made ~27 years ago. I mostly race AFX. The power supply was regulated 2 channels (one for each lane). On the gun i had 7 switches for power, reverse (mom and latch), brake (3 pos), NOS (afx was 12v, but we ran 25v (this made all of our cars fast), and NOS was 40v), led ammeter. I would link a pic, but yt will delete my comment. Oh, and on the PS, I had a switch to series the 40V channels for 80 volts! Any links to the latest high end controllers? Thanks for sharing.

I like your intro animation

Hiya, brilliant videos. I'm just wondering if you knew which screws you've used for the motor mount to the chassis. I need to get some new ones for a recently bought 911 and can't find them listed anywhere. Thanks in advance, David

Love those speed secrets!

Here in Hollywood, we had three hard-and-fast rules for weight placement: 1. Always place weights on the pan. The pan functions to decouple body+pan yaw inertia from the rest of the car's yaw inertia. Yaw inertia impact force is generated when the car must quickly change direction entering a turn. It acts to push the guide out of the slot. The impact force is minimized (by spreading impact out over time) when the body+pan assembly can: have a high percentage of car mass, move independently, be well damped such as with James' gel strips. 2. Always locate the weights as far as possible from the car's roll axes. These axes run fron the guide pivot to the tire outer centerlines. Cornering force acts on the roll moment of inertia about these axes. We want those roll moments of inertia to be large so as to resist roll movement and loss of guide force in the slot. 4:14 and 12:22 are spot on for this chassis. 3. Always use depleted uranium for weights. The defense industry left plenty behind.

48°‼️

Hey dude,build a c 21 chassis,thats what beginners are racing in the US

Just a few basic questions, What is the average life of a Hawk 7 motor? how does the break in process play into the life span of the motor?

Please make more videos on brushless slot cars!

What do you clean the acid flux off the chassis with, when you are done to prevent corrosion? Love this series, its good to see you doing things with brushless. Thanks!

Brushless 1/24 Euro Sport from AB slotsport

I thought you already cleaned it with lighter fluid and a brush(?)

looks like the hole in the pinion is over-sized

Good video, great info! Gave you a sub. Race On!

I would like to say THANK YOU for your intel I have learned a lot about slot cars

great video

where is part2

Could you make a new vídeo servicing a brushless motor??

Once you glue the bearing in the chassis HOW DO YOU TAKE THEM OUT ?? I had some glued in and couldn’t get them back out to replace

I have them in a fridge for 10years and come out like new. All serious racers all over the world for the years and years have know this. I don't know if it is that dark in the fridge, how do you know 😮

Hi CleaveTech - absolutely brilliant! As an old mechanical engineer from the sixties (yes, I am that old!), every bit of balance adjustment could make difference between a "win" or a "loss". A lot of our mods on the muscle cars of the era were done with "hands-on" work like you are demonstrating. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with a younger generation and a few older guys like me, Ciao, L (FoMoCo engineer, retired).

I'm thinking about getting into slot car racing. I had a Strombecker 1/32 set in the 1960s. Why do the brushes have that curved where you end up making it straight and a straight area where you end up making it curved? If I looked at that without knowing anything about your process I would say the brushes are installed 90º out of position. They are flat against the curved commutator area and curved against the flat commutator area.

Paper is .004 with mic in standard measurement. You just answered as i was typing. Sometimes I'll mic a piece of paper and pull it between the anvils to clean them

I can tell by some of your tools and vocabulary you're most likely a machinist

Hiya thinking of doing a GRBL conversion on my MDX-15 would you say that it was successful?

When I go round corners more s corners it slides out when I leave the corner

I put weight for a tri-oval in the middle on the left side.

Do you recommend using a Dremel and Scotch-Brite on an axle before you install it? Rear axle, of course

Great information

How can I buy that mounting jigg

To make your ho mega g pmus cars better and faster is literally gel claw tires if running plastic afx track especially if its a two lane with no room to slide and the car keeps de slottting unlike 4 lane where the car can slide and not debslot. I do everything in this video and man my ho cars are screaming now i just got a few tjey cars and a few especially the ford gt40 mkii short chassis mega g us car all these tips maxe that car stick better and not deslot as easy as it would when it was box stock that balancing device makrs a huge difference as well

James, do you exclusively use 72p gears. I didn’t see mention of 64p.

You didn't adjust the arm to the magnets by putting a piece of tape on the arm while the epoxy hardens.

A wonderful thing. Can you provide the model file?

Excellent video! Does your Motor Analyzer work with Mabuchi-style 25k motors for 1/32 scale? Where can we purchase the CleaveTech Motor Analyzer in the US? Many thanks

What would you recommend for the Mabuchi-style motors that we run in 1/32 scale cars? Your CleaveTech Motor Analyzer looks great, but would it work for 1/32 scale also? How could I order this if it will work? Many thanks!

Great video. I’ve never built a slot car before and I’m currently doing research on how to build one.

Couldn't have come at a better time! Im getting one of these ready for action at the moment for our 14 year old son! He's racing 1/24th and f2 currently. You never know, you could see us at a track in the future 😜 🏎💨

Wow I have a lot to learn, I would never have thought you could submerge an electric motor in water without shorting everything out!! Today I learned different,lol

lol almost like i'm back at work! Nice job James!!

I blew it because my body started scraping on the track in the later stints and I lost too many laps. I am really happy for Bill who borrowed one of the other cars I'd prepared according to James' excellent vids :-)

Great video James. Love your tech videos and your club/racing videos

hello James !! - thats cool !! British SC championship....