You are welcome!!!!!!!!

I had no need to save those pcs. Straight to the burn pile.

Interesting!

You're welcome! 🙌

Glad you tried it even though you didn't believe!

Rats! You might have to find a laptop to borrow to attempt this fix. If your unit isn't turning on at all tho, that's a different issue. If it's completely dead I would start by trying a different power cord.

I'm not an Nvidia expert, but I think this is the 2017 Pro. The 2017 Pro comes in the same case as the 2015. The non-pro 2017 model has the smaller case size.

@@koreyfreemanofficial Both 2017 versions are smaller and lack both the micro SD and micro-USB ports, helpful video and will help some but not those with 2017 models

According to everything I have seen online the 2017 Pro has the larger case of the 2015 model due to the larger 500Gb hd. It def makes it confusing!

You're right, there was a 2017 pro edition with 500gb but it was discontinued early in it's life cycle. Yes it's very confusing and you have a collector's edition, lol

I don't know how that dishwasher looks underneath... but I would def think so. If you take a look underneath and see 2 hose connections (supply and drain) that's what he needs to connect to. I would think even a half decent plumber should be able to figure it out easily, this is basic stuff!

You're welcome!

Not positive i understand your question, but yes.. this type of connection is designed to plug straight into each other end to end. No bending of the wires required. Basically, you just need the metal to metal contact.. nothing complicated.

Good luck! Let me know if this works!

@@koreyfreemanofficial thk u!! u saved my life, it works!!!

Yaaa!

@@koreyfreemanofficial yeah, it worked! Thx a lot man... U saved my nvidia....

Happy to help!

Nice! A trailer would def be sweet to have. I had been very interested in a Woodland Mills. They get glowimg reviews, and the Rima is basically a knockoff Woodland Mills. They aren't identical but they are close. They are both Chinese made. I could get a Rima for quite a bit less then the WM so that's why I went this route. The drawbacks are you won't have ready access to all parts, and the service isn't great from Rima. But at the end of the day, manual sawmills are pretty simple machines. As long as you go into it realizing these are hobby mills you should be happy with the Rima. Plus going used, you can resell it later if you want to upgrade. I would say go for it! It's a great mill for the price.

Korey what is the total cost for the mill you have in the video and can you provide the link contact for ordering your saw please ? Any nuances I need to be aware of when ordering - thanks for all your help !

​@@scottsteckler The base price at the time was $1800 USD. I added several upgrades and spare parts and a sharpener which brought my total to $3040 USD with $150 freight included in that. Then I had about $470 USD import fees/customs clearance into Canada. So total was around $3510 USD, I spent an additional $433 CAD trucking the sawmill from the freight forwarder's warehouse to my house, as their warehouse only allowed dock level pickup so I couldn't pick up myself. So all in, I was at about $4075 USD when all was said and done. From my understanding, if you are in the USA your import fees will likely be higher than what I paid into Canada. www.alibaba.com/product-detail/26-36inch-electric-gasoline-portable-sawmill_62272740048.html?spm=a2700.shop_plgr.41413.11.fecf5a86wVU6DU Definitely order the blade guide, this is the pc that adds extra support to the blade (and includes the horizontal yellow shield) you can adjust according to the width of your log. For some reason it is an upgrade, it should come stock. I didn't realize mine didn't include this. Ask your rep to see the optional parts, my rep was super fast and friendly, but she wasn't good at upselling. I had to ask about extra things. I upgraded to the motorized sawhead lift. This was a waste of money. Even at the top speed it moves the sawhead painfully slow. Check out the group Rima Sawmills and cranes on facebook, there are several knowledgeable people there.

Pretty sure this is an old model, it def looks old! I just took off the covers of the dishwasher to allow me to remove the drain/supply hose since it ran up the back of the unit. I didn't change anything with the dishwasher besides the supply and drain hose, so if you already swapped these out you should be good to go! In hindsight I am thinking removing the outer cover could probably be avoided entirely. Just tip the unit over, disconnect the supply and drain connections, and pull them out of the machine. Worst case if they don't fit out that black plastic pc on the back of the unit you could cut these 2 hoses then do that. Hopefully this clears things up for you!

Thanks! You sound like a man who knows what he wants... I'm not going to argue!

You're welcome. Good luck!

Also - have you connected to outside air? It's a bit of fuss but it does really improve the stove's performance!

Awesome! Be careful what you ask for lol. Cool to hear they are used down in Aus! Mine isn't vented to outside air, my house is pretty drafty. Would be interesting to see the performance difference tho!

@@koreyfreemanofficial Well worth the effort I reckon - especially for draughty homes (the front half of our house is super old and draughty) No more cold draughts across the floor since installing!

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oNCdn5iUsrerYo0.html

Thanks Dave! Great last name by the way!

Yeah, it's a common electrical connection where things can easily be disconnected, but i have been shocked to see how many other people have experienced this issue! It's def not fool proof

You're welcome! I just scored this shield second hand recently for a great deal because of this issue on the hopes i could fix it. A lucky break for me i guess, it's a great device.

Seems like! It was working all fine..

Cheers!

If this stove is in a corner installation like i have here it can go like 5" or so away from the wall. Pacific Energy's website has a document showing the clearances. We primarily just run the wood stove along with a propane fireplace in a very drafty room at the far end of the house. We only ran our furnace a few times this past winter. I burn a mix of hardwoods. Maple, ash, birch, oak, black cherry. Not sure what i was burning in this video.

Congrats! I think you will love it! I have heard that before about my accent. No timbers are being shivered here tho lol

The 31G base price at the time was $1800 USD. I added several upgrades and spare parts and a sharpener which brought my total to $3040 USD with $150 freight included in that. Then I had about $470 USD import fees/customs clearance into Canada. So total was around $3510 USD, I spent an additional $433 CAD trucking the sawmill from the freight forwarder's warehouse to my house, as their warehouse only allowed dock level pickup so I couldn't pick up myself. So all in, I was at about $4075 USD when all was said and done. From my understanding, if you are in the USA your import fees will likely be higher than what I paid into Canada.

Thanks, that is good to know!

Lol! Best comment I have got on this video!

A 15mph wind shouldn't be putting it out. I think you should get your venting looked at

It can take constant pressure

The pressure is fine but you are right an valve in place would be handy. I also would have used a T with a stop valve to the hot water supply. Never can be too safe.

I wish I was more qualified to help you, I found this comment on a different forum about someone's problem (I think the jist of the comment is that there might be a sensor that is preventing it from sparking. Make sure all your connections are snug: Make sure the thermocouple nut is snug on the bottom of the gas valve. There may be a TCO protector in the system that is open. Hope you get it figured out.

Thanks! You think that sensor is in the pilot assembly cus rheem thinks pilot assembly is bad. Supposed to be getting new one on wednesday @@koreyfreemanofficial

​@JMBlackNet i don't know if there is in fact a sensor in your assembly.. i am not a water heater tech. I don't see a sensor in the diagram in my video. But i am pretty confident getting a new pilot assembly will take care of your issue. There isnt many other parts to a water heater and the assembly is where the spark is made.

Less than one actually! Had never owned a country property before. Pretty soon after we moved here I got bit with the sawmill bug. Didn't know anything about them before

I hope the best for you that you can mill as much logs as possible

Thank you!

I think if you put plywood underneath the rubber mats you could attach pegs.. might take a bit of creativity to make it work

Cool! I have never used a 4 way so I am not the best person to ask. The dual split is def more versatile for any log size. The 4 way would def be handy for appropriately sized logs, so it probably depends on the logs you will be splitting. I think the 4 way comes with a dual split head as well... but i might be wrong. If i could pick only one option i would probably stick with the dual split, but if you have the budget for the 4 way and the right logs i think it would be a good investment.

@@koreyfreemanofficial Thank you, enjoy the splitter!

We have a small 1900s farm house. Its a small footprint but has 3 stories above ground and tall ceilings and open staircases. I have been working at air sealing/insulating but it still has some very drafty sections that i need to fix. During the day typically we run the stove with the damper all the way closed, if the house gets cool we tend to just open the damper full blast until it gets toasty, then dial it back to fullly closed. Also i find after restocking the fire it seems to help to leave the air wide open for a few minutes. At night we always run it fully closed so that there is a nice bed of coals in the morning. So basically we mostly run wide open for brief stints and fully closed. On colder days you can put lots of logs in the firebox for more heat, on milder days you can go with less. Honestly, it's a very easy stove to operate and isnt picky with how you run it. What I described isn't the only way to do it, it's just the rut we fell into this mild winter. This was our first winter with this stove.

@@koreyfreemanofficial Okay sounds good. I think that’s what I am doing wrong. I’m not burning hot enough. But I know the book says. If anything is glowing red. That’s a sign of a overfired, and my stove never gets like that. I’m guessing you can burn it hot as long it doesn’t glow red. I had my stove for 2 years and I’m now getting used to it now. Thank you for getting back to me

@@itsyurb0ylayy4 what issue are you having? Not enough heat output? I noticed a huge difference in heat output moving from wood that was still pretty green to more seasoned wood. Seasoned wood burns so much hotter. Ideally season your wood for 12+ months. Beyond having dry wood, try to get the fire nice and hot initially. FILL the firebox up, and leave the damper wide open and let it rip until your house reaches the temperature you want it. At that point you can throttle back the air, and I think you will find that the heat output is much better after you have that great bed of hot coals. Don't be shy with the amount of wood you load, and letting her get really hot before dialling it back. Stoves are made to get hot. It seems to me that if you try to be stingy with the wood and air supply the efficiency of the stove drops off a cliff. Get it hot, then let it coast.

@@koreyfreemanofficial the issue what I was having was, that I was in a group with they was helping me, when and they was telling me. Wait till the flue temperature is 300, then turn it down, once the flue temperature is 350 turn it down again, and once again when it gets to 350 but this time only 25 percent, and once I started doing that, it will put out the heat, but it will raise the temperature of the house 1 degrees per hour. Mine you the stove is in the basement. But I watched your video 5 times, so I can take the details more properly. And I noticed you wasn’t getting a lot left. And you that’s one of the problems that I was having, I will have large coals . I will rake them to the front.. but I been doing what you did for two days and I see the difference already.. I don’t get a large Coal bed. And I also think I wasn’t letting the wood to burn its full y Cycle. I think I was having this problem before, because I wasn’t getting the stove out enough I think I was scared that I will damage my stove, a lot of people on Facebook been saying keep the stove temperature 650. I noticed when I keep the air control in the middle of the that’s when it cranks out the heat but this is when the stove is in the 700-750. The dealer told me the stove can handle it but only for a hour tho, but when the stove is at those temperatures nothing is glowing red, but if anything is glowing I turn it down lil, till the red glowing goes away. But I noticed the book doesn’t have a overfired temperature. All it says is if anything is glowing red that’s a sign of a overfired. But I called pacific energy and they even told me the the stove can handle it just check your stove to see if there’s any damage every couple of months.

Not my best work!

I think what i did was better than that! But maybe this will be useful for someone else to try. Nevertheless, i don't own this bass anymore.

Good question. I was originally going to use batts then when I realized how tight the work area was decided it would be easier to spray it so I wouldn't have to worry about keeping the batts up and protected from critters etc.