Can this be done on zinc plated screws or stripped steel screws?

Great Job!

Never understand why people are so salty and want to leave negative comments about someones experience with new machinery, like chill y'all. that be said THANK YOU for sharing your experience! currently building my 440 up and this was a great help....the instructions seems to leave out some key details here and there.

Thanks ❤

Nice ❤

Hi, is sulfuric acid required to lower the pH of the bath?

Doing resoration of vintage pieces like radio and bicycle parts. So I should nickel plate first then copper plate with brighners to fill in rust pits and scratches and polish before a final nickel plate. If you do automotive body work its kind of like putting on primer to make the body filler stick. Things are making sense.

thank you sir

Please! Protect your breathing!

Do you use any type of Chemical cleaners or Surface activators (aka: Pickling bath) I read a DIY company who sells DIY kits for home & hobby use advocating them. What they call the “Surface Activator “ is a [Sulphuric acid] solution. And the cleaner Solution used before the Sulphuric acid is weak HCI Solution. 📍I’ve only seen the online DIY folks using a HCI solution before they do the Nickel Plating process. 📍Any suggestions with either of these ? Or maybe something else you prefer? Thanks for your content!! Lee

Great video!! Interesting looking crystals.

It’s funny because I have no issues with chips on the front but I’m having this issue behind the table on the Y bellows and about to do this back there…

Great video Thanks

Looks good! Any update videos planned for the 440? Maybe showing off some parts you've made with it, and how its fitting your needs (or not).

Would've been helpful if you would have done things in-frame, yeah?

Advice for cleaning the mirrors? Please

BRAVO! this is awesome. I sent you a message on your Etsy store. Also I wanted to let you know on my PCNC1100R3 I have a Torch Super Fly Cutter and it's amazing! I also have recently been using their 3/4" Inserted Hog cutter and it has cut my machining time a TON! Definitely worth the investment.

At 8:30, don't worry about having a slower ramp time, too fast and thermal dynamics (thermal shock) can damage the components and/or PWB. Most profiles are as follows: 1. Room temp. 2. Ramp to hot and stabilize that is safe for components but NOT hot enough to reflow the solder paste (usually 40 F below the reflow point). 3. Hot soak (wait) to be sure every component and the PWB are all at the same NEAR REFLOW temperature (usually about 10 minutes). 4. Ramp up to 10 degrees past the Reflow temperature. The faster the better, but slow is ok as long as you stop heating as soon as all solder points reflow to the solder specs. This is most critical, you don't want to be at the reflow temperature (or much above it) for very long, just enough time to get the solder to reflow correctly. 5. Cool off from the Reflow temperature back down to the safe Soak temperature as soon as possible (shut off hearers and open door for a few seconds). 6. Ramp down to Room temperature (heat off with door closed), slower is actually better here - you are not a high rate production line, so time is not a big factor.

At 7:04 you just need to put in PID code and adjust the coefficients by trial and error until you get very stable temperature set points. It's not very complicated code, there are plenty of examples of PIDs online.

we cannot buy nickel sulphate crystals in UK :(

Looks like it works well. But why is the coolant pressure higher than before?

Thanks for the video, I've shared it with my students 😊

does it make a difference if we use Copper Sulfate vs Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate? thanks

Thank you for sharing this with me

The fitting is metric ffs!

Workshop looks like its been prepared for a serial muderer!

Hello, thanks for the good idea and informative video. Do you think that if a UV filter was placed in place of the color wheel, would it work? I think in place of the color wheel the filter will be in better thermal conditions than in proximity to the lamp. Thanks and have a nice day

exactly what i wanted

I bought one with a 3mm plastic Matt to cover the wood .

Most machines use plastic and I assume it so that the plastic breaks before something else does in case of a tool changer problem. Definitely something to consider.

Nicely done.

Just go for the electroless plating where you just need to activate steel first by dipping in H2SO4 before dipping it in a Copper Sulphate composite bath!!!

Why do you think this stops running after a few seconds? At the end of the video it stops running. I mean the main ultrasonic humidifier itself. I tried it in different bowl in different water levels but it does the same thing before even starting this project. kzfaq.infoQTjyeZ2T7wk?si=tniPSMeNrakg9NYh

I just went to your Esty store via your links and got a message saying the page was unavailable.

How much does one cost ...I'd love a 440. How much is a 770. I not really have lot of extra $$ but Good Idea starting off with wood

Very well thought out engineering. Loved it!

Do your fep a sheet have sticker on one side? I mean how did the fep a Sheet stick to cured pdms?

Ni+h2so4/h2o2

Tryed myself , Resulted in a bit of pure nichel sulphate Chrystals, but at the end obtained a lot of yellowish sludge. The Chrystals at the end are not even obtainable as theyr consistency is needle gel/like. I can assure you by the appearance even the Chrystals obtained in your video are not pure blue, they seem more yellowish/ greenish than they should be. Whats the problem? Too much sulfuric acid resulting in sulfuric sludge? Spent a lot of efforts trying to obtain Chrystals from the last 2/3 of solution. Still no results.

dude , thats some serious agression therapy, that poor water melon really took it :P

Yeah, since getting my 440 it's been fairly obvious that tormach isn't interested in solving obvious design problems. They're philosophy seems to be that if it mostly works most of the time it's good enough, the rest is up to you to mcgiver and figure out. Great video though, I'm looking at McMaster's for supplies to do the same thing you did.

Excellent instruction. Thanks

YT deleted my comment that was critical of tormach... not sure why...

Love watching these type of videos. Reminded me of my early youtube days watching kipkay

I’m in the process of making, a copper plating machine right now, it’s a little different but is for copper plate just the same

You can also drive the reaction forward with electricity. Place 2 nickel strips in the sulfuric acid solution. There is no need for hydrogen peroxide. You can connect low voltage AC directly to the 2 strips. You can rgulate reaction rate with current, so "run away" will not happen. Electrolysis will etch & plate nickel, with net reaction of nickel sulfate being made. Boil down solution & when cooled, nickel sulfate will crystallize. You should not skip this step as the crystallization purifies the product. BEWARE! A lot of the "nickel" strips are nickel-plated steel.

Once the volt thing started with the little machine to measure i was lost. Do we have to have that??

ooh very hard .....who's do this kind of things..but i liked video

good helth

I designed a controller about 3 years ago for a friends powder-coat oven. That oven is big enough to park your car inside - Pretty big. The heat source is two kerosene fuelled central heating units - Big power. Insulation is generous on this unit - it is used as part of a business, so it has to be efficient. The doors are opened often (high tunover of product) and this dumps the hot air from the oven into the room (wasteful and generates a high workload for the heating system). I used similar thermocouple (TC) amplifiers to you, and they feed back to an Atmel running code generated in Arduino IDE. I averaged the TC readings like you're planning to do, so that I could get ONE number to make on/off decisions. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Usually, these amplifiers will generate an error message if a TC is grounded or open/short circuit - Use this in the code to generate a number variable: Variable = 0 Read thermocouple1: If result == error; Variable = Variable + 1 (variable now equals 1) Read thermocouple2: If result == error; Variable = Variable + 1 (variable may now equal 2) Later, when you do the average, you add up the result of all the TCs, and then divide it by the number of TCs but you subtract the above variable from the number of TCs first. This way, a TC can fail and the averaging still works with the remaining TCs. By the way, they WILL fail - this is just a facet of TCs. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Temperature differences between TCs: They're shit. TC's are apalling sensors. Daft little LM35s walk all over even the most expensive and exotic TC's for accuracy and repeatability. What silicone sensors can't do is high temperatures, and this is where TC's shine. Don't rely on the TC to provide Seebeck voltage uncalibrated - and here is your problem - you need a calibration source. I have a Druck DBC650 temperature bath which is specifically designed to calibrate temperature probes. Its an expensive bit of gear to buy new - about $3000 (I got mine 2nd hand and very cheap). You're already using polynomials from spreadsheets to represent traces so thank God I don't have to describe that (I'm crap at math). You need to calibrate each TC in a known temperature source (as above), and record the reading at the microcontroller end. Plot that in a spreadsheet and then step the temperature up. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Once you have enough readings (every 10deg C?) generate a polynomial and then use it as a calibration in your code to display a REAL temperature. Sound a bit much? I was disgusted with just how far out TC's can be, and I would never have known if it wasn't for the fancy calibration source. You can generate a reliable 100degC from boiling water, and 0degC from ice water, but those two points are 100degC apart and only give you a linear response (all of the K-type TC's I've worked with were all over the place and totally not linear). Here we get even deeper - If the temperature at the measurement end of a TC changes - so will the reading you get, even if the temperature at the "hot" end stays the same. The only way to counteract this is to either control the temperature (submersion of TC amp in artificially cooled/heated liquid) or to KNOW the temperature of the amplifier end. Mount the amps to a strip of aluminium and use an off the shelf LM35 to measure its temp - again - this is where the calibration in situ plays a part. Also, you have some of the thermocouple lead inside the oven, and the lengths are not controlled. This is where TC's can get to be a pain in the arse. The bulky looking stainless bodied units you have look good with a clear line between what is the sensor and what is not. Install them properly and your readings should stabilize. Be prepared to have to calibrate in-situ because the amplifier end of the TC wire IS sensitive to temperature (Seebeck effect). Actually, don't bother with the big stainless bodies sensors - They're bulky, so have a lot of thermal mass, so will lag behind reality. This will be a total pain to code out the overshoot. Instead, buy a reel of TC wire and just crimp one end with something like a ring-terminal - instant TC for cheap! It has the advantage of being low thermal mass, so will be agile as hell. If the oven changes, so will the sensor. Ughh.. anything else..... Insulate the oven for efficiency, but don't pack it tight because the insulation will start to act as a thermal conductor. That internal fan will generate more than enough air movement to equalize the temperatures. If you're seeing dirfferences, it will be a mixture of the TC's needing calibrated, the TC's needing to be installed rigidly and direct view to the heating elements (radiant heat). On radiant heat, you're stuck between a rock and a hard place. You ideally want to block radiant heat to prevent hot-spots, but to do you have to add a shield which then adds thermal mass which resists temperature change. Try tin foil. I need to lay off the coffee. Good luck! Subscribed just for the oven project.