It’s good at work arounds so I didn’t use anything commercial. I used an angle grinder to make tools for the castle nuts (frame bolts) and swingarm pivot. It’s a huge job.

It really is a big job because what you’re really talking about is replacing the whole engine except the internals because you if you’re replace one part half of the crank case you have to do the top part which of course includes the cylinders so I’d suggest that you do a compression leak down test on the engine you’ve gotten see how good the cylinders are if they’re good, I would see if you can find an artist with a tick welder to repair it from the outsideI think that’s entirely possible depending on what damage is like otherwise a replacement engine is probably the way to go

Thanks 👍

It was not a conscious choice. It was the better the two I have. I realized it was slightly different but not that it is SP2. Thanks.

@@984francis I couldnt quite tell from initial view but perhaps the remains of the OEM rear fender were SP1 and may not line up with the SP2 rear subframe, where the ECM sits on an SP2 is beside the battery, whereas on an SP1 it sits under the pillion seat area

@@damiondavid536 I made do the best I could with what I had. (Hence persevering with the Yamaha wheels.) I love these bikes but I don’t know the model year variations at all. The “remains”😬 of the undertail is actually two sets of remains joined together. So the bike is not authentic and never will be, but perhaps, over time, I will clean up some details. The PC6 is by the battery. Yes stick coils. I’m capable of repairing the coil driver but hopefully won’t have to. Thanks for your interest.

Thank you

No. If this is happening, either the smoothing caps are bad and/or coupling caps are bad.

No. It's my video, it's simply that my friend has it on his Bogglesham site also.

12ft +/-

@@984francis Thanks!

Hi J F. This is outside my experience. I guess it would be possible to run three or maybe more sine wave oscillators at different frequencies and amplitudes. I think you might have some luck searching for "oscilloscope art generator" there are people who have done some very clever things using software and mathematics. Oh, music or a music loop might work too. Lots of different frequencies and amplitudes that would look wavelike depending on how fast the sweep is running. For the art generator approach you would probably need a triggered scope (such as the one you are looking at), for the multiple signal / music approach, a repetitive sweep type would be fine (simpler). You should be able to put a scope app on your computer and feed it with music and see what you can create. Out of curiosity, I just had a quick play and got some interesting wavy interactions using just two sine signals.

Nicholas Parker Yes. You have an interesting channel, it's relevant to me. Apart from that, I'm originally from Farnborough Hampshire and volunteered with the Watercress Line for a while in the early 80s. This is me talking about the Aster 35028 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j96AiLhpnLWtdXU.html Ditto SNCF 232U1 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rpZpitN0zt_aj40.html

Until recently I lived in Salisbury, NC which is about 45 minutes away from Greensboro. Currently living in Philly working for an airline but trying to transfer back to Charlotte. Live Steam and Garden Railways are my passion. Sadly only an armchair passion at the moment but hopefully will change soon. I do visit the UK quite often. I’ve done some volunteer with heritage lines over there on occasion.

984francis I’ve visited the Watercress Line a few times! It’s lovely. I’m acquainted with some current volunteers there.

I miss the rich cultural and hobby life in the UK. (And pubs!). You have a standing invite to come and visit. 35028 and 232U1 are quite spectacular with a decent rake of coaches. If you want to connect via email go to richardsears.wordpress.com You will find all sorts of stuff there including detailed illustrated descriptions of the locos. I built 35028 from a kit. If you comment, I will be able to email you I think.

Nicholas Parker I knew Andy N, boilersmith years ago.

If you're interested, I have a old tek blog at richardsears1.wordpress.com You will find detailed articles on the B-L, 35028, 232U1 and the 4MT. These are recent so near the top.

All three are good locos. 35028 and 232U1 are powerful! The reverse curves have a 1% gradient (deliberate) and 35018 easily restarts 14 Accucraft BR MK1 up there, 232 less easily being a compound thus less starting TE but she will do it too! Here's two links to videos that I narrated: Merchant Navy Loco 35028 Clan Line kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j96AiLhpnLWtdXU.html SNCF 232U1 Gauge 1 live steam model kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rpZpitN0zt_aj40.html

I noticed i have the same noise on my G1MoCo Rebuilt Merchant Navy must be a design fault , the pump stopped working last year so i changed all the Balls for new stainless ones , the old ones was a odd shape that did not help with the pumps performance , i also changed a couple of washers that was leaking , i still like the loco very powerfull with a loud Bark from the Blast pipe

This is a very nice track and handsome loco. Don't ever be perturbed by a locomotive's idiosyncratic performance. Even full-size locos had their idyiosyncratic behavior and noises. That's the charm of steam locomotives.

Thanks. I have subscribed to your channel. Have you seen my 232U1 and 35028 videos?

Thanks for subscribing i have done likewise , We have just Built a new track at Chelmsford Model Engineers using Decking a good way of construction, i will look at your videos later Graham

I read about that in G1MRA magazine, it looks excellent and will last for years. I live in Greensboro NC but am from Farnborough UK and remember 4MT tanks and Bulleid pacifics.... There is no community hobby scene in the US like you have in the UK, everybody is too far apart. I have a playlist entitled "Gauge 1 in Greensboro".

Thanks for the comments on the Track the Idea came from seeing many Railways in the US made with decking as i should think it can stand up to changing weather pattens better, we have had nothing but Rain - Snow - Rain here as i type this another damp day !

Hi. Thanks for subscribing, are you a member of the southern G1MRA? No, I haven't written about the construction. In brief, the brick pillars were built (from recycled bricks) to provide something solid to work from at the higher elevations. I surveyed and laid the whole thing out four times before I was satisfied that I'd got it right. 4 by 4 wooden posts are between to provide vertical support. The centre to centre distance of the supports is nominally 6' which works out with the nominal 11' radius. Each section is a 4 by 2 frame screwed to the wooden posts and bolted to the brick pillars. I used stainless steel screws to hold the frames together. In the curves, the frames are tilted in about 4 degrees to give some superelevation. For consistency, I used a 9" spirit level with a screw in one end adjusted to give me the angle I wanted, a sort of sine level. The slats are 6 by 5/4 and 17" long to get 7 slats from a 10' board, the longest I can carry in my car with the trunk closed. (It is necessary to choose the 6 by 5/4 boards with great care, many of them are badly bent and twisted.) I laid the slats out by eye to a fair curve and then clamped and screwed them to the frames. The frames are laterally solid because they form a vertex at each wooden post. I used 2 by 6 frames for the straights to increase stiffness where geometry isn't helping. Another reason for increasing the frame depth on the straight is that it comes to the ground right by the deck and must be strong enough to withstand being stepped on. At the ground, I still used 4 by 4 posts on 6' centres but infilled under the frames with gravel. Where I haven't used brick pillars, the posts are either on concrete bases (where I couldn't get into the ground because of lumps of concrete under the topsoil) or directly beaten into 4" diameter augered holes. All wood is pressure treated and the posts that are directly in the ground were given several coats of some thick goopy stuff to protect them. My experience of pressure treated wood in the ground is that it will likely outlast me. At the point that I worked this out, I'd never visited a track. There are many, many ways to do it some of which are clearly superior to mine. The way I did it, I could go to Home Despot twice a week and buy a kit for a section and simply kept repeating that until the job was done. I hope this helps.

Thank you for the detailed response. I am a G1MRA member, but not a member of any chapter. I will save your reply as guidance when I complete my running track. I simply love your brickwork.

Thanks. The brickwork was an inspiration. I was quite concerned about how I would manage the high sections using just poles are whatever. Then it came to me to use the bricks from a patio that I had torn up to build pillars and that made all the difference, both in the ease of construction and in the finished appearance. It just happens that my house is built of the same varigated brick and that was a large part of what had attracted me to it in the first place.

Excellent description thank 🙏🏻

Thanks, I was delighted, especially after the hassle I had with the coaches.

Yes, I forgot about it. I wondered when somebody would notice. Thanks for changing my advert.

+Александр Смирнов Any modern scope will let you analyse waveforms on far more detail than a vintage one, and this can include spectrum analysis. I would think that anything that will display signals and permit measurements to be made will help you grasp the theoretical stuff. Do consider bandwidth. Consider if you expect to be getting into RF stuff for instance.

The 317 is an excellent oscilloscope. I have a page on it and it's sister 316 at richardsears.wordpress.com/2011/07/01/tektronics-316/

Yea I read that page a day or two after I got it. I still can hardly find anything on it. At least it is not as bad as my sear portable color tv. That has absolutely nothing online except for a seller on ebay selling the picture tube. That's for the info.

984francis