On this furniture the best lie triangle but stock from Zastava USA and forward on that long handle cut off one piece where the gas cylinder begins but cat it diagonally to hide the cylinder nicely so that it is not visible, on the end file well so you don't get hurt from the cut metal, try and you'll see!!! Greetings from 🇷🇸Serbia🇷🇸 from land of Zastava arms, Novak Đoković, Nikola Jokić, Nikola Tesla, Milutin Milanković, Mihailo Pupin, Vlade Divac, Peđa Stojaković, Constantin the Great (the founder of Christianity in the Romas, born in Niš "Nais" Serbia 🇷🇸) as well as 18 more Roman's imperators and others great Serb's🇷🇸!!!🤔🥱😎 Cheers 🍺 🍻!!!

My mpr works great been hunting with it 3 years now only issue I had was ftf and it was the magazine the mag lips got weak over time because its plastic and so it push the ammo at a 45 angle and cant feed until u only had maybe 2 rds in the mag. I had C.A send me out a new mag and i compared the 2 and found that was the problem. Shoots accurate and feed and eject is fine now.

After watching this video, I was wondering how the repairs on the 4” came out? I thought maybe you would have done a follow-up video on that, but there is nothing I could find listed in your channel line up. I purchased the 617 - 4 inch a couple months ago and have been mostly satisfied. It does seem like it gets more light strikes than I would expect. I use CCI Mini Mag Target, which runs flawlessly in my Ruger Mark IV’s and several other semi-autos.

I would say b&t srbs is better then surfire cans

That protruding is a good thing lol

Is the bolt supposed to be bouncing after chambering a round

Fun weapon to use. 👍🏻🇺🇸🦅

🔥🔥🔥

F... KZfaq

I've had a Canik Rival-S almost as soon as it was released. My buddy has the the S&W competitor so I'm able to shoot it quite a bit. And I 100% agree with your assessment. Canik is the better gun for the same price. Even the Rival Polymer is the the better option in my opinion and that one is only $650

Nice gun

Noice

If it were not for having to remove the optic rail to field strip I would probably already have a Buckmark. Everything else about the pistol I like.

Looking at getting an optic. I like the look of the Romeo 5 but is it not practical? I’m using it for range practice and plinking as well as very rarely going small game hunting. Most 95% plinking. Or should I do a smaller reflex type red for

The high price point is to cover the cost to repair IF it has to be returned. They are probably 50/50 good/bad ratio.

WOW! I was absolutely set on getting the S&W but your review has completely changed my mind! I will in fact be getting the canik s.

What’s the total weight of each of your 6.5CM rifles? I’m planning on getting the MPR but with the 16” barrel, either in 308 or 6.5CM, for NRL Hunter matches (production division) and also for hunting.

Deboss Garage 🤘🏽

FINALLY A MASCULINE LOOKING REVOLVER WITH A LONG BARRELL

I ordered a set of double box end gearwrench and my 17mm wrench sounds different than the rest and also binds up or catches does anyone know why the 17mm? They are made in Taiwan by the way.

Do you know if that suppressor can handle 300prc?

Made is US vs Turkey…

Browning clearly superior

Good vid 👍🏻

I have 3 Geissele triggers. Though I will say, if I build any more AR's in the future -- I'm looking at Larue.

getting these. choosing these over the ratchet ones. seen some bad reviews on the rachet set.

Sig cross 6.5 creedmore hands down is my go to now. I hunt Northern AB huge elk and bucks,. Never a problem taking down big game. I used my Winchester 30-06 the last 20 years and finally moved after trying out a friends Sig. Great adjustability, light and very accurate. Love the AR platform and use front hang carry. I use EDL-X and SST 143gr bullets. I also use the Leupold VX-5HD with custom turrets set for long range shooting, MDT Bipod and a liner compensator. Average kill distances with 6.5. 400-600 yards with proper placement. If I don't have the right shot, I don't take it unlike many irresponsible hunters out there.

I’m a guy. I tell all my gfs that size doesn’t matter if it gets the job done

I also owned the same two guns. My Smith and Wesson went back to the factory 3 times for repair in the first 6 months of ownership. Smith never repaired or fixed anything.. I called the second time and asked did you read my letter that was in the box with the gun ? The responce from the service shop guy was " We rarely read the leters with our repair guns, the letters usually get lost....we just shoot a clip of bullets to see if the gun works and we send it back !! I said this is my second time back and the letter was attached to the service request and emailed to the service shop. "We don't pay much attention to those letters, we shot a clip of bullets downrange and sent it back". I said this is your Performance Center Gun, supposed to be the cream of the crop for Smith and Wesson and you never attempted to fix the slide YAW movememtn issue ? So a third trip back and no change, I dumped this brand new gun on the used gun market and purchased a CANIK RIVAS S , it is easily twice the gun that the Smith and Wesson produced. My last purchase from S&W

Really like the Sig Cross .308 I have other than its trigger. The trigger is serviceable/works okay, but it's not really precision rifle trigger - too much creep and not a crisp break. But that's Sig for you, triggers are always the weak point of any Sig to me whether one of their rifles or pistols. Unfortunately with the Cross you are stuck with a proprietary trigger setup, no alternative to it. Still, like it very much in spite of its trigger - light weight, shoots great, and ergonomic once you get right pistol grip (the MPA VFG like on your Christensen Arms MPR) and add the polymer foregrip onto it. If I were to do it over though I would 100% go with a Tikka T3X in a KRG X-Ray chassis instead based on the .17HMR T1X in KRG Bravo chassis am running for my rimfire precision rifle. Absolutely proper stock precision trigger and phenominal shooting precision/accuracy for less than $1k. T3X/X-Ray chassis would be as adjustable/ergonomic as the Sig Cross while still having short 70° bolt angle and smooth action and incredible stock trigger. Weight wouldn't be that much more either with a 20" barrel and it would come in $100's less than a stock Sig Cross and outperform it a little bit in shooting.

Been looking at a lightweight chassis style hunting rifle for deer for 400 yards and in. Sounds like the sig is the ticket.

All my ratchets are Snap-On NON-locking flex head. 3 total, 1/2, 3/8 & 1/4. I work on cars everyday, but *barely* use them. When I do, I use the 3/8 the most. I find myself more often than not using battery powered tools, wrenches or crows feet in most situations. When a large bolt is seriously stuck, I don't even attempt to use the half inch. I use a 3 foot breaker bar instead. All-in-all, I don't think ratchets are nearly as important as they used to be.

Got lucky with my waypoint. Shoots 1/4 moa with berger 135s Love the way the agc stock fits me like a glove. I also prefer a more traditional stock.

Just ordered one and wondering two things if you might know...? One, what brand of batts do you run if you run non-rechargeable? I ask because I've had trouble with multiple brands corroding and damaging my lights. Granted, I've never owned a Surefire and the one I just ordered is my first, so maybe it's a cheaper quality light that is the problem. Something to keep in mind is I live in the desert where temps are usually over 100F and do get as high as 125F in July, Aug, so it's possible the batts are having trouble with the heat. Second question is, do you have trouble running your light that close to the can? Thanks for the vid and info!

The choice of screwdrivers depends on the application. You DO NOT want to use any of these full tang drivers for electrical work, nor do you want to use them to reform a damaged screw. The full tang drivers are for breaking heavily rusted fasteners loose using an 'impact' like whack from a hammer, not to re-shape fasteners...better yet, Vessel makes their "Impacta" screwdrivers with the JIS (Phillips like) tips that rotate the shank twelve degrees to back off a 'Philips type' fastener when struck by a hammer on the end cap. For automotive work, the Vessels are my favourite...I really like the added weight in the hand, and the bolster for applying extra torque, as well as the round shanks for gripping and guiding the tool. I don't personally like hex shank drivers, although they do sometimes come in handy if the driver doesn't have a bolster on it, like the Milwaukees. I'm not a fan of the Wera handle shape, nor do I like the oversized 'Tri-lobe' on the Milwaukee drivers, plus it's cheaper feeling, non-grippy handles. Assuming you're getting good German steel, or equivalent with the Wiha drivers, you probably can't go too wrong, and the extra two drivers in larger sizes is a definite plus ...BUT, here in Canada, I can order the full tang Vessel 8 pc. set as well as the 8 pc. Vessel 'Impacta' set and still have a few bucks left over to put towards a larger size slotted driver. As an aside, I don't know that JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) tips are actually a thing...I believe it's just something that got lost in translation over the years and became an 'Urban Legend'. I think it's actually just Japan's equivalent industrial to America's ISO standards, and that their 'CROSS' shaped tips are simply made better...even better than the Phillips tips on my Klein drivers. Over the years I've ground the tip back a little on most of my Phillips drivers so that they don't bottom out on cheaper screws and have found this to be a significant improvement.

Sw looks way better!

I will never touch a decent car with those Milwaukee ever again. All marred up, just ruined every bolt, I mean I stopped before, the GW has been fantastic , except the spline 120xp is not very confidence inspiring, if they were 90T spline, it would be a home run. I have 15 sets they're all 12pt, I wish I could find nice spline wrenches. Don't like the Matco or 120xp. Too fragile, two 60t gears , ONE pawl and when one gear ⚙️ doesn't jive with the other gear the wrench is busted! Give me a 90T , bc I really like the spline, and they ask a fortune for these with no features, not even a directional arrow.

Canik isTurkish rubbish

Very well done video! Great stuff. I own a mk18 and a Wilson combat recon tactical. I’m going to be purchasing a huxwrx flow 762 ti to swap between them both

I can't find the SATA 120 XP on Amazon anymore. I had to buy the 72 tooth

Im going back and front between 4 inch and 6 inch Which one can you recommend for me? Thx a million

I have been shooting M&P"s way back with the 1.0's i chose the polmer 2.0 5 " over the metal frame & never looked back!

Even the SCS doesn't co-witness at all so it's not possible really

درسال چند تولید شده

yeah, bought the waypoint. Did the fluted barrel and the adjustable cheek rest. 6,5 Creed. Thanks for the details on the Christianson arms and Cross rifles.

Looking at a MPR on gunbroker in 7PRC bidding for 1100usd. I’m going to pass. Don’t trust Christensen too many reviews about poor QC and buying used is even more scary

What plate do you have?

5:23 to add to that, you can also adjust the cant of the butt pad on the cross. Take the length of pull all the way out, and on the front side of the butt pad you’ll see 2 screws, you loosen those to cant the butt pad. After I got my cross, I thought I would’ve still have preferred to get the Q Fix, but I’ve come to really appreciate the aics mags over sr25 mags and really love the tool less adjustability of the stock (besides the butt pad cant) but I’m never gonna use that anyway

I install the Vickers Tango Down trigger on all of my Glocks. One of the best aftermarket triggers out there IMO. Give it a try.

Great review, thanks for taking the time to record