Forged them for 20 years with Eaton Corporation and a few years with Dana .

Old parts 🤔🤦‍♂️ I’ll pay the $4500 sir

aaaaand this is why all of our rear ends became truckers lol..... great detailed video man, thanks!

Hi, thanks for your video, amazing. I am apprentice. First power divider I pull and installed. So much help your videos ,again thanks 🙏 .and expecting more videos from you boss 🫡🇨🇦

Thank you! You saved me a lot of money and time. Where do you get the rebuild kit? I’m having a time finding one. I have a Dana spicer DS 521 P 4: 33gear ratio

Every time someone uses I torch I immediately rule myself out.

Need to check the end play after you bolt everything back together and re-shim. End play needs to be between .001"-.005". If it isnt shimmed properly, this work is all for nothing..

I can relate to this O/O......Thank you for posting this video. Nice job.

Mine looks like is leakinh from inside the shaft, is it possible?

I’m working on building a torque splitting 1 ton diff this was a verry good video on how to put it together looking inside the housing was great

I got issue in Volvo vnl power divider . Front ,2.47 ratio , no axle lock . Does anybody have knowledge about it

I always mark mine with a punch. It wont be out of time

This worked. It was accurate. I watched this video and did it when I realized that the diff lock did not engage and the drive shaft kept spinning. Thanks for great help.

Thank you for this video I’m getting ready to do my power divider aswell and was planning to remove the entire third member but not anymore

Bro. You said we could do it on the side of the road. 😢

Great 👍🏻

All of my gears and bearings look good. The input shaft just sheered clean. Would you suggest me getting the input shaft kit? Or just the new input shaft. I know the video is 3 years old. Just looking for some input

I had a leak between my front differential and the power divider. I waited to fix it, and blew two wheel seals out in the meantime. When I opened it up, the gear lube was milky. Fixed everything and haven’t had a problem since. I’m wondering if that compromised gear lube allowed that diff to get hot and melt those seals? I’d be curious what yours looks like when you drain it.

Great video !!!!!!

Thanks brother.

Clearly you havnt fixed any of your leaks that’s the worst I’ve ever seen in my life years of shit and build up

Great video for sure. But am now seeing this video from my motel 😂😂😂. My truck is in the shop at this moment because the power divider, output shaft seal jump out.

Great job explaining. Thank you

Awesome video, I just tore my front differential apart yesterday. I had a pooping upon takeoff and vibration. My truck is a 2016 Peterbilt 579. They confess apart a little different but pretty much the same inside. The yoke has to be removed first and the shift fork is up front and has to shifted around to get the shaft out. Luckily your video helped me realize this was my issue. Parts are ordered and on there way. Spent $1500 to rebuild the whole thing on a D40-155 Spicer. Thanks for the help and making the video.

Putting it back on is the easy part smdh.

A lot of bad information here. As someone that rebuilds these every day for 28 years and counting, doing these power dividers in the truck isn't advised because the big input thrust washer is known to fall down between the input shaft flange and the input helical when trying to install the power divider which is why we build them straight up and down in a diff stand. Failure to catch that is going to be an improper shimming of the power divider and you can ruin it. Next is the input yoke, do yourself a favor and take the nut off before removing the power divider from the front differential and save your wrist, shoulder and elbow. Next is the spider gears, almost every time an Rd20145 power divider is worn so are the diff internal gears (spider gears). Now because the rear wasn't pulled, broke down and inspected you risk blowing up the internal gears in the near future and you risk ruining everything you just installed. Anytime the power divider is replaced it absolutely needs to be re-shimmed too. We don't set the shimming with the o-ring because they rip fairly easy and they should always be replaced part number 5-x-1034 . Do it once and do it right, pull it and have it done properly.

I have to ask how much play is good vs bad on that area. I have some it is directly at the shaft into diff. Same as in the video. Slightly worried bearing might be going but also have been told play is normal. you can lift up on the drive shaft and looks / feels like 1/8-1/4 play

If your going to clean out the pumpkin use two all thread bolts to slide the diff out enough to clean the pumpkin then slide it back in.

Would this cause oil to cone out of exaust manifold and how do you know how far to tighten it

Awesome help thanks

Can't really agree with the torch thing (hot gear oil would be better in my opinion) but it's been done without incident many a time, at least you're smart to have Rockwell rear ends !!! I hate Spicer and Eaton and meritor axles myself I like Mack and Rockwell personally !!! Both as a former mechanic and Driver, a couple of long dowel pins to help get that front assembly to slide in helps alot, be careful about silicone blocking the oil holes and passages, to, All the best to you and yours Sir.

I didn't see what truck you're working on? I need to replace one on a 1994 Chevrolet Top Kick. Looks similar to what it is

Great video. I missed what model truck.

This is going to save me a bunch. We usually pull them out and they rehearing the whole thing. Always been gun shy. Not sure why it’s broke how much worse can it get. Got one now that runs fine but power divider lock doesn’t work. U can hear the fork move and axle lock works. Once you see it and watch. Easy as pie. Can’t thank you enough.

Very helpful video

Great work man thanks

I put that gear in the freezer part of my beere fridge. Then the bearing on my wood stove . Works great. Good video my guy

Great video sir thank you

I have a mack and the only way it will move is if I put the lockers in would this kit work for that

Any way you can get ahold of me? I can't figure out something about my differentials. Thanks. I B TRUCKIN 🤠

A kitchen hot plate will also work to heat and expand the cone . Camshaft gear on Caterpillar engines will heat up the same way . 120/23

What does it mean if my inner axle differential is stuck on. The shift cylinder moves back-and-forth when I take the air supply off and push it with a screwdriver but when it’s jacked up both axles have to be up to turn. It’s not an old international, it has air going to the cylinder when I actuate the dash switch. The collar must be stuck. What parts do I need besides the shift cylinder housing that I rounded the nut on trying to get off?

Please use safety glasses when air hammering the hard surface . 115/23

This is exactly how not to do it! The service instructions say do not use a screw!

by the way how's the socket size to remove the big nut? .thanks!

How much up and down play before you have to do this to you rear axle?

That's a shock load that's from engaging the power divider while the wheels are spinning big No-No

Called a seal and a bearing retainer you should always always always reshim

I do not recommend you installing this this way I've been doing this for 35 years every day and a high volume transmission differential repair shop in Detroit Michigan and I have never in my life if I ever installed a bearing like this you can take an old race press the enter of the race and press it on without damaging the bearing you're taking life out of the we never use those bearings over always change

If I'm just changing the bearings behind the yoke , do I pull that nose cone and assembly like that ?