VERY NICE .... I will be copying for my OLD 10" DOB , I'm @ 33S LAT so I"ll be making some tweeks (on the sectors). I will also have a crack at adding Arduino goto driving to mine EVENTUALLY (once I WORK out how). Did you end up adding some baseplate levellers for times you are not on a PERFECT SURFACE ? Did you find any flexure in the plywood when the larger Dobs (which can be pretty heavy were on them) ?

If i make platform 20%longer,should i change the old segment you provided?

Great job man

Good tips in this video. I went the with the telrad as it is complementary with my finder scope which is an RACI. The biggest issue I have is at home it’s pretty much the moon and planets, not only is the light pollution bad, with my neighbors lights on I can read a book in my backyard. The front yard is right across from a street light.

Im at 40 ° latitude will this design work? I just found 41 in your pdf . can you give me a design ? thank u

Thank you mate, very nice👍

Thank you so much for the 2 videos. The first one sparked my interest in this type of platform but since I live in 10.5 degree North, very close to the equator, I cannot find any easy to follow segment design. Could you please help me with this one. That would be extremely helpful. Thank you so much.

Hello! Sorry if this is too much to ask but could you provide a calculation using latitude 62?

Difference between fantasy and reality is a matter of personal choice. Every reality had to start as some fantasy first. This planet is a place where beings with very different perspectives meet, which brings very fruitful experiences.

I’ve done it for my 8inch dob, one motor was enough- thanks heaps for your videos! Tested yesterday and the day before yesterday. Managed to take a 15sec picture of omega centauri and the carinae nebulae with a bit of stars trails still, that’s kind of how much I could push it, do you have similar results? I live in the southern hemisphere 42.86° S and I used the 46 ° segment and try to raise by 3 degrees the top platform, I wander if a more specific segment for this latitude would make a difference? Any chance to get that from you? Or a tip on how to calculate it?

I have a question. If latitude is 35 degrees does it work if I proceed to 46 segments and then raise the southern part of the entire platform to about 11 degrees?

not sure if the angeleyes is the same as the meoptex brand but they look a lot similar. i have the meoptex 2" eyepiece and it is good.

Very nice video! Can you show/tell us how to transfer it? Like from the apartment to the field? How to protect it in the car, etc. Thanks!

Damn, that drift just shattered my Flat Earth 🌎 😂

So I gather you have no interest in building anymore of these?

Very nice video. I own 200 pds tube and have built a Dob mount for it. Now i am going for Diy EQ mount. Your videos are quite helpful.

nice video, i live at 44.8° latitude, what modifications should i do to make it as precise as possible?

Hi sir, celestron and this which 1 better

Did you use the generic microsoft driver or did you find a better driver ?

Have you tried deep sky objects?

Love this. I live at 38 latitude so some modification will be need for where I live, but I think I will give it a try

Nice that you got plossls with your scope instead of the plastic bodied SMAs. That is if the 2 plossls in front on your desk are what came with it. But you can get much more out of your scope than you can with red lines and the 2" ones which I assume are the 2" eyepiece kit type. If so that 26mm is 56deg and the 32 and 40mm are about 62-65 degrees, but they are 3 element modified reverse kellners, that are not very good at the edges at f6. Even the 15 and 20mm gold lines suffer at the edges at f6. I do like the 40mm on f10 SCTs though. The 3 element design actually lets more light through and it has good contrast on fainter dsos than budget 5 and 6 element widefields, especially superviews which come from the same factory. In general I would prefer a 30mm superview over the 32mm 3 element because it has a wider field, but the 42mm superview is a dog, and is actually slightly narrower in true field and apparent field than the 40mm 3 element, and it has a fuzzy field stop to boot. The 15mm superview is the only 4 element one in the design (I think it is Koenig), and it is the best of the bunch, it beat out my 15mm QX/es70/bresser 70 on contrast and throughput on the double cluster in my 4" f10 refractor. The 30mm the 2nd best in that line. I think the 15mm superview might be a small improvement over the goldline 15mm, but not worth bothering, since all of them are not sharp in the outer field. I was unlucky enough to have all of my gear stolen out of storage and insurance wouldn't pay. So when I started over, right at the beginning of covid before shortages raised the used prices, and manufacturers started increasing prices, I got an xt8 for $100, but with the cheap celestron plastic eyepieces and a singlet barlow that was pretty bad. I bought a svbony 20mm SWA and then a friend offered me a deal on the same 25/10 sirius plossls that would have come with the scope, a 17mm old japanese sirius plossl dome top, a decent parks japanese 2x barlow, and most importantly an old 8.8mm uptrawide meade, one of my favorite eyepieces i used to own. He threw in an old 1.25 lumicon OIII filter that had the coatings starting to die, but still working somewhat, and the 32mm 2" celestron E-lux branded version of those 3 element 2" eyepiece kit ones like I assume is the set you have. It was better than not having a 2" "finder" eyepiece, but I quickly re acquired one of my favorite budget/outreach 30mm UW80s, this time a BW optik branded one, I had the 1rpd version back in the day and it was my first 2" eyepiece 20 years ago. They are sold as generic unbranded UW80 as well Not that it will have super sharp edges at f6, but if you enjoy yours, it is a much nicer experience. But if you plopped down 2-300 on a 28mm 82deg UWAN/PWA types, available from several brands, you would be blown away as it is sharp to the edge like a 31mm nagler. I had the 31, but had to go cheaper with a used 28mm megaview version, and I am very happy with it. We even compared the original 28mm UWAN to the 31 nagler almost 20 years ago when my friend got the uwan, and I was still using an 8"f4 newtonian with some older 1.25" naglers and an 8.8 meade, but others we observed with had 31s. The UWAN was amazing then, and is still the best 82 deg in that focal range other than the nagler, much better than the ES82 30mm and the meade and celestron versions that were available prior to about 13 years ago when JOC made ES the only source for those eyepieces. One last thing, 50mm eyepieces are not practical in f6 scopes, 42mm is the lowest useful magnification and a used 40nm meade series5000 SWA or maxvision 68deg is an amazing experience as well (same as ES but less expensive because they aren't waterproof and don't have the warranty) I miss mine, but it is not practical in my 10"f5 (the xt8 was lost in another bad luck situation a few years ago), and is way too heavy for the vintage fork mount SCTs I had to replace my GEM mounted ones with, unless I want to buy weight kits for them... But that thing is sharp to the edge at f6 no problem. The 28mm and 34mm were pretty sweet as well

There is nothing wrong with straight through finders, in fact, if I only have one finder, I would rather it be straight than right angle. I only like right angle finders when I have a red dot or telrad as well to get me close. Often I use just a red dot or telrad and a wide 2" eyepiece to find stuff. It is very hard to aim the scope with only a right angle finder

Really nice ! What is the model of red dot / laser thing you are using ?

Is svbony aspheric eyepieces ok?

This is a very informative video. Nice work. I don't love optical finders either for the reasons you mentioned, but I do find them helpful for star hopping and locating objects when the stars or objects are too faint to see naked eye or with a Telrad style illuminated finder. This is especially true when viewing under bright urban skies. Even a small 50mm finder scope can help resolve fainter stars that may be near a deep sky object that I am trying to locate. I also agree with you on buying a 32mm 2" eyepiece. One of the best purchases I ever made. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos.

Hey, I am really looking forward to building your EQ platform. However, I cannpt find the plans for it. I have left a message on Stargazers Lounge as Peter25626. Help would be much appreciated!

Hey, I am really looking forward to building your EQ platform. However, I cannpt find the plans for it. I have left a message on Stargazers Lounge as Peter25626. Help would be much appreciated!

Besides possible issue of annoying/distracting other people and big risk of legal issues near airports, green lasers have additional possible risk: Safety. Functionally they're actually infrared lasers with frequency doubling components converting some of that IR to visible light. With emphasis on word some: Huge majority of their output power is still at IR, needing filter to block it. So if buying from some random source, you can't be sure if all Chinese cheap production has that filter.

Interesting.

Hi, I have just bought a Dobson 8", but there are springs and I'm desperate because the telescope doesn't stay still, it moves by itself. Does yours always stay still even at the zenith with the knob system?

10mm plossl is not in the trash category, but i get your point. Is your cat okay?

Hey im in australia at 26° S, would you know if this works?

Sam też niedawno zrobiłem platformę , z tym ,że na płozach z blachy aluminiowej 10 mm . Na wałki kupiłem wężyk gumowy i go naciągałem . Ja używam 1 napęd EQ i nic się nie ślizga poprzez zastosowanie tego wężyka gumowego. Polecam jeszcze zastąpić ten potencjometr od ustawiania obrotów , potencjometrem precyzyjnym wieloobrotowym .

Thank you so much I’ve trying to build one myself and this video taught me everything I needed to know

I have the celestron but things have moved on.such is life.clear skies brother

Taky ho mám a paráda Nevýhodou je, že mám skoro plný telefon :-)

on their page there are 2 variants: basic (2,4") and PLUS (3,3"). Which one did you test in this video? I have an Omegon redline eyepiece and i do not want to buy too small version :)

Thanks!

I have the tridaptor, with the Bluetooth shutter remote. I've gotten some really nice shots with it. Don't have any experience with other such devices. But I'm satisfied with the tridaptor. Love your videos, especially the one about EQ platform.

Interesting.

Would you be able to build me one, I have a 10 inch dob, is there a way to contact you?

amazing video, this will help me a lot in the construction of the platform but I have a question: do you reccomend it for astrophotograhpy? I don't need the precision of a $ 1000+ eq mount but if this platform can track without problems any object in the sky for 30 seconds or more I will be more than pleased.

Great video. I'm a total novice and your video has increased my knowledge a lot! Thankyou. Great pictures too

good job

Hey this is awesome! The blueprints for the "segment" piece don't seem to include my latitude (41.72 or about 42 I suppose). Is it possible to provide either a print out, or how to calculate the shape of the circle (or ellipse?) so I could maybe make my own, thanks.

Are you Israeli?

Background music is too loud man

I wonder how difficult this would be to adapt to my latitude of 65 degrees north, excellent project!

British expert Sir Patrick Moore said maximum magnification is 50x per inch (25.4mm) of aperture