Excellent! For the pigments at Barlow's, I would recommend SKUs 407032-901 and 407032-931. I also use SKUs 407038-923 and 407038-922.

@@StartFishingToday thank you is it quart hard plastic that you use

Thanks for watching!

I don't know who that is personally. But, I just looked up that UN on IG and it appears he was on the trip as well.

I fish about 340 days per year and I don't catch fish on EVERY session....Point being, keep going and keep casting. You'll get em' .

Nah. As long as you know "how" to fish a crowded open party sport boat with up to 35 new "friends", your "spot" is anywhere on the boat.

Thanks for watching! Hopefully you get to get some soon too!

Okay...and who are you?

Absolutely!

Okuma Celilo 7'6" (2-piece) light.

It all depends on the size of the mold. When I'm doing 1 or just a couple 3-4" swimbaits or per mold, usually 1 - 1.25 cups of plaster will do for that size.

About 2-3ft.

Orange County, CA

Thanks!

Thanks for watching! Hopefully you see something that helps you get bit as well 👍

Topsmelt is what I (and most others here) use for live finbait, not jacksmelt. Topsmelt or just smelt are 2-7" long usually. Jacsmelt or surf smelt can get upwards of 19" long.

Yes it was!

Older Pelican 100, but it's really 9'6". amzn.to/3LYf12S

1. What were you expecting to see based on the video title? I literally had FUN fishing with the ripper swimbaits I made/make, tell you in the video captions the links for materials to make are in the description an end the video with...the video I made showing HOW TO MAKE THE RIPPER SWIMBAITS on your own! 2. Thanks for watching! It really helps us out 👍

I do not sell anything that I make. I only make it to use myself. All the links for the materials used are in the description. For the 1/2oz round jighead that I use on my 2" rippers, those are noted in the description as "Jighead Lead Mold - Standard Round Head". It will be stock # 473106. For the jig hooks, I use either size 1/0 or 2/0 Victory Jighead Hooks. they will be stock # 528310 or 528311. Lee 10lb Lead Melting Pot is 453015. All from Barlow's Tackle.

When using plaster, there are enough slight imperfections in the mold to where no intentional vent holes are needed. But, if you decide you need one, I would make a very narrow air escape at the end of the tail. You don't need much. As you force the plastic into the mold, you will see one main/big air bubble come out the top as that is the only spot for the air to escape. Once that air bubble comes out, the plastic backfill that small amount of empty space.

@@StartFishingToday thanks for the response

If it was not an active sardine, I would have. Sometimes, they just need a reset so-to-speak. They get shocked when slamming onto the water surface and don't swim the right direction. Usually, when you recast, they figure it out. If not on the 2nd cast right away, I'll put a new one on.

@chihhu5751 Is what supposed to float? The lure? The swimbait has a lead jighead and sinks. The jerkbaits depend on which you get. Some are built to float, some are built to sink and others are built to suspend at a specific depth in the water column.

@TheTangledAngler Right side in this video. It is a velcro wrap that you can put on either side of a backpack strap. amzn.to/3A4FhGa

Northern Orange County, CA.

Glad to hear!

Thanks and form Aus? AWESOME!!! No, I have not used silicone. Plaster is so cost-effective and works great for me, for both lead and plastics. Silicone is a bit more expensive.

Unless you keep the plaster mold above the melted point of the plastisol, yes, you will need the injector - if you have to fill small voids/crevices in the mold. If you pour straight from the measuring glass to the mold, the plastisol will start to thicken/harden well before it has a chances to fill those small voids. You need the injector to quickly force the plastisol into those small voids before it has a chance to start cooling. With larger lures that don't have sharp angles or small crevices to get into, then pouring could work.

Yes.

Yes, I usually use some type of cooking oil spray when I want a shiny batch. This was just to show the differences/similarities with each mold type.

North Orange County, CA

They are interesting sea creatures, that's for sure.

If you want to test the strength of your knots and line, sharks and bat/butterfly rays will do it!

You right. Maybe it's best you stay home...

He saved them from drowning

Thanks. I hate snags or bycatches, but the rays and sharks do put up a great fight on light rods and 10-15lb test.

Lee 10lb Lead Melting Pot: barlowstackle.com/lee-10lb-lead-melting-pot-br110-volt-model-p345/?afmc=t9 I have added the updated links to the description for the melting pot and jighooks used for near shore (thin wire) and offshore (thick wire). Both are Victory hooks.

Thanks. Hopefully it helps!

I used to use saltwater (extra hard formula) from MF Manufacturing that I get through my partnership with Barlow's Tackle. Barlow's is no lo ger able to carry stock in MF due to MF's supply issues. So, had to switch over to the Barlow's brand hard formula. They (Barlow's) recommends using the plastisol hardener as well to get it to the consistency of the MF saltwater formula. Link for Barlow's is in the description, then just search plastisol.

@@StartFishingToday Thank you. I have been dipping to make tube baits with another brand's extra hard formula. Just getting into injecting molds and have been remelting random leftovers to get the hang of it. Made some good looking baits, but yeah, they're not gonna hold up to the spotties...always looking for more options.

I 100% promise you that the leader wire is less expensive than the hanger wire + it's 100% stainless steel. Hangers aren't. Hanger wire is also much thicker and less durable.

Absolutely! I hate 'em. Waste of $ for me. So, make my own with harder plastisol formula.

Nice!!! Thanks for watching!

Yup!

And I'm fairly confident you're one of those that believe 1+1=5. Have fun 👍

The clamp, being metal, plastic, wood, other shouldn't matter. Most likely cause was the plaster layer wasn't thick enough. With it being super cheap, try using more plaster in your pours to make each side thicker (close to a 1 inch). Make sure your mixture (plaster powder to water) is correct. If you use too much water (trying to conserve plaster), the mold will be too brittle (as the water evaporates, that leaves open pours in the plaster. The more water, the more open pours. Heat resistance coating shouldn't have much of an affect on the plaster durability itself. Great that you're having fun with it. Once you figure it out and start catching fish on your own lures, it makes it all worth it!!!

@@StartFishingToday I'm learning!!

@@StartFishingToday one other question. Can you make molds using cement instead?

Cement can have variable meanings depending on the person. I believe you are referring to cement as in a form of concrete. Yes, you can. BUT, once poured and set, there is no trimming it, sanding it, or modifying it. It is permanent. There is liquified concrete hole filler. Not cheap, but not expensive. A lot better to use than standard fast-dry concrete (without pebbles - only sand-based). I have yet to find a molding solution that is as cost-effective (or better) than basic plaster of paris.

@@StartFishingToday thanks for the advice. MIGHT try it but going to have to think long and hard. LOL

Great to hear that it helps on other makes/models or spinning reels!

Pour slower to just get the poured plastic about 1/16 - 1/8" above the mold, allowing for a little bit of shrinking. You can always trim the tail and sides. Def better to be thicker than to thin. If too thin, the tail will not have any real action. If only pouring 1 color, you can just take it out and put back in the liquid plastic to melt and repour.

@@StartFishingToday thanks