thanks for the comment - send me an email, [email protected]. I have two sensitive drill presses, one of which is identical to the one in the mrpete video, will share details

@@FliesLikeABrick email sent...

Thank you for your opinion, there are chapters in the time line that skip past the talking so you can jump ahead if the talking is too much

That is an interesting idea, I'll put it on my list. I know some people use small hvlp or airbrush hardware but that makes more aerosol than desired health-wise. A pure DIY solution would be fun

Indeed I always like projects that give me an excuse to work in/on/repair brass and bronze parts - especially when it's an old machine like this pump

Thanks, I skimmed that for the moment and I think your simplified expression would give me ~65uf whereas I have tested 30 and 40uf so far. that's perfect since I already ordered a 64-77uf cap yesterday :) hopefully that will let this start under load, in case the cylinder stays under pressure in the future (so far it appears to bleed down over 2-3 minutes)

@@FliesLikeABrick I am pleased you found it useful.

Yep so far this is all proof of concept before I build a shack for it all, it's for recycled water use in the garden. Full test video coming soon

This is a phase ii bxa. I think a cxa maybe could fit on a lathe this size but it is possible it may be a bit large and tools end up high of center line without being milled down

Thanks for coming back to me. So what size tool bits are you using? Ive jyst come by one of these but still with the original single holder rather than the 4way type

@@mikebryan544 I believe bxa tool holders are natively going to hold up to 5/8 square hss or indexable carbide tool shanks. I have a mix of 5/8 and 3/4 oversized (generally Colton brand, aside from the initial phase ii set) bxa tool holders

Ok cheers thanks for that

Thanks for sharing! I knew when I was recording this that it's a pretty niche topic but figured it would be relevant to a couple people per year who are brainstorming something similar

Yeah, I wish they didn't rip it out - it would he nice to have it intact even if it needed repairs, and to get better low speed torque

I'll try to get some more-definitive information, but in the video I think the key takeaways for timing and cycling issues are: 59:40 - put the turret with tool one locked in. Have the pinion gear in the position I show, where the through-hole on the pinion is pointing up and to the left; the pawl/ratchet mechanism has a tooth facing almost directly up (there are 5 teeth and two sides to the through-hole, so this should only happen in one possible position not two); and have the helix with a valley facing upwards. Then I talk about the bushing timing at the back for the stop screws to work correctly. Also don't overtighten the slot-head screw in the bottom that holds the lock spring in, since that can prevent the lock from moving fully. Lastly, the bushing's timing on the spline at the rear has no impact on getting the mechanism to cycle correctly, it only impacts whether the stop screws work correctly

Not sure what that hole is, if I find myself looking at it I'll let you know. 12:25 the release/unlock lever is double-set-screwed, since the inner one doesn't get tightened against anything (it comes down into a retaining slot with clearance, and the second one locks it)

Yep, it probably is something similar. Other designs have a spool with two o-rings and the upper one being damaged may cause what you are seeing

That is only locked together when the clutch is engaged, right? This rattle of mine specifically happens when the motor is running but spindle is not (clutch is disengaged)

@@FliesLikeABrick I believe they should be locked together at all times, which maintains the clutch setting. I just put mine back together and while it's not powered up yet, the clutch engages and releases correctly with the lock ring engaged. I also notice that I have my lock ring oriented differently than yours - I have the two knurled sections facing towards the headstock. But that could be because of the way I put together the locking ring - I may have reversed its OD and ID. But I think the major travel direction of the locking ring needs to be towards the lock plate, regardless of knurl orientation.

Thanks, indeed I generally do whatever I can to avoid permanent modifications, and even if rewiring I prioritize using the original components if possible (repairing or repurposing as-needed), before replacing them. Another example is my Bridgeport had a bad 6f drive, and I could not find the issue with the board - so I replaced just the controller instead of putting a cheap new power feed on altogether

Thanks, will update if/when I find a reasonable solution

@@FliesLikeABrick haha for me that would be a set of ear plugs since I'm having health issues that are making progress on my lathe restoration go slower than I'd like and I have a bunch of projects on hold that really need the lathe to be operational for

Are you having a smiliar issue or just curious?

Vintage machinery has the information to decode the serial numbers on these old Century motors, one of many great resources on their site

@@FliesLikeABrick Thanks for info, I'm regretting it only goes back to 1938.

Correct! A repulsion-start induction motor is pretty cool, it runs like a normal single/split-phase induction motor. but during startup, instead of a start winding and a capacitor -- it uses a rotor that has windings. As you may know, most induction motor rotors just have an inductive squirrelcage, not windings. For "repulsion-start", the brushes short out the opposing windings which give the motor a kick in the direction you want it to spin. Then once it is up to speed, a centrifugal mechanism pushes the springs off the brushes. Note that these brushes just short the rotor out to itself, there is no 120/240v power being delivered to the rotor. To change the direction of the motor, 2 screws are loosened and you turn the brush holder 90 degrees. Because physics, that shifts the phase of the rotor field such that it will kick in the opposite direction.

Thanks for the thorough explanation, what a fascinating piece of technology!

What would you like to see? I may still have that recording saved. To make sure we are on the same page, it's a graph of the current draw of the motor (rather than an oscilloscope graph of something, though I can do that too) - happy to take a new recording and show whatever you would find interesting.