Never managed to get the Rate mode working well, flyable but not very nice. The 6 axis was actually very good to fly. Ultimately I tried a different flight controller running INav but always struggled with roll oscillations (this had been an issue with CC3D as well). That was 5 years ago and it's been sitting ever since! Next step was going to be running Rotorflight on a board however the enthusiasm to do this seems to have evaporated! A pity as the FX71 on 3S was a delight to fly, serious power but very relaxing with the 6 axis.

Completely different geometry so no. The Eachine E130 is effectively a Mk2 K130 and is way superior

​@@FlyingboatsRCGthanks!

Sorry can't actually tell you as I got rid of my E-110 and can't see a link. Try posting a question on the RCGroups.com forum for E110: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?4126941-Eachine-E110-Sentry-FPV-Helicopter

Realmente me alegro de que lo hayas encontrado útil. ¡Muchas gracias por mirar, feliz vuelo!

Specs suggest it's very similar, although with the body, 580mAH battery and camera the E110 will be the porky cousin! Don't get too excited about the video functionality, it's definitely the weak point of this helicopter....

Cheers.

Well (a) I didn't and (b) this has a non-stock brushless tail conversion I'd built myself so struggle to blame BG's for that one!

Hmmmmm for me XK110 has been the starting point although K100 I'm sure would also be good. I've flown other small CP's mostly the old WL Toys V922 and Hisky 100's (really these were the same), WL V977 (K110 prerunner), but the K110's are actually cheaper to fly. They don't need many parts, usually survive crashes without damage plus they fly better. I'd recommend waiting and saving up if you can.

@@FlyingboatsRCG can i buy your used 6ch heli sir? Because i really cant afford to buy brand new. Its okey if it has some damage as long as it work and fly even without canopy will be appreciated. I really want to learn to fly 6ch.

@@coldfirebeat4903 Sorry I've already sold off my old CP helis

@@FlyingboatsRCG oh okay sir

I should have read the expert instructions first! Initially I added a second BEC in parallel which solved the issue in a clumsy manner, then later ordered the little buck converter that Birdbarber had trialled successfuly. They were dirt cheap but took around 2 months to arrive. The link doesn't work any more but there are other buck converters which look the same. Birdbarbers K110-2S build notes (a treasure trove!!): www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=38438695&postcount=2487

Thx for your answer! I did this mod and it works perfect, even with 84 gramm 👍🏼

@@marioandreoli86 Nice work, enjoy!

I've been flying 2 110's on 1S back to back, one on the standard flash, and one on BLHeli. TBH I don't find any great difference between them although the BLHeli one flies with heavier 600 Nanotechs, the stocker with the 520mAH GNB batteries. Might show up more if using the same batteries on both. 2S bird has BLHeli.

Thanks :) Haven't tried the M1 but flown an M2 and been very impressed with it. M1's sound excellent but I'll probably buy an E180 next as I really like that size of heli to fly in the park. Bigger, easier to see, but not too large.

@@FlyingboatsRCG E180 because of the price? Its not way cheaper than the M2 V2. My advice: stay away from the carbon tail boom and skids. Breaks more easy and a tail strike might tear your rear motor cables. Had carbon on the 450 and hated it.

@@chrisbee5481 Understand that the M2 tail booms are pretty fragile and that the E180 carbon tube seems to be more robust. Was going to buy an M2 but friend who has both rates the E180 design better, and likes the flying characteristics more. I have carbon booms that I've smashed all hell out of without breaking them, purely an issue of the quality and thickness of the carbon. I know Eachine have already been asked for injection moulded skids, I'm sure they will appear. Of course if you don't crash them.......yeah right!!!!!

@@FlyingboatsRCG E180 turly is nice too. Are we talking about the same M2? The M2 V2 with drop alloy shape tail boom for camparison? Cant believe they are more fragile. True, carbon is a matter of quality. I like your 2S k110 build. Is it worth the effort?

@@chrisbee5481 Yeah V2 tear drop alloy. Don't have one, just what I remember being mentioned. 2S 110 is good but have been incredibly slack -motor has bad vibes affecting flight and still haven't sorted it. A bit more weight, a bit more headspeed and heaps more torque. Flies better, crashes worse! Must say really enjoying the E160. Very smooth precise compared to the smaller birds but working hard to keep it in the air, not hitting the ground :)

V1 has black wires running to the tail motor from the tail ESC. The V2 has Red/Blue/Black wires running to the tail motor. V2 improvements were better bearings, heavier grade tail motor wiring, improved canopy clearance and a slight change on the flight controller settings to eliminate a ""tail twitch" which makes it better for lower headspeed and sportflying.

v 1 also has brass bushings on blade grips.

Haha. Yep definitely need to treat with respect as they get bigger. Picked up cuts from a 110 and 150 sized birds a few weeks ago, the bigger guys can do some serious damage!

Have you upgraded parts or are they later model stock parts? Mine was a very early unit and the whole swash/head setup wasn't good. Small collective inputs tended to rotate the swash rather than change the blade pitch, and there was a substantial difference in blade pitch when returning to what should have been zero pitch depending if it was from positive or negative pitch. This is why it was so hard to finely control it in hover. Mine now has full Master CP main gear, shaft, head and blades and is much better, the CNC MicroHeli upgrades are supposed to be excellent too. Have you tried running a smaller battery? Flying with a 950mAH Nanotech battery transforms it -same power but much lighter in the air and still decent flight times.

@@FlyingboatsRCG I think mine is a newer version but I have now bought 3 of them and heaps of parts before I finally got a helicopter that will hover perfectly so I could learn how to fly it. All the parts are cheap plastic and can’t handle a crash but I find that the heli is super responsive and easy now I understand how it works.

@@gregorydawson6249 Glad to hear that you've reached a satisfactory point with it. If they've addressed the issues they should have released a V2 to help differentiate from the original problems, just like Eachine have done with the V2 E160 (which is a stunning helicopter, best build quality and setup of any helicopter I've purchased to date). Enjoy!

@@FlyingboatsRCG Now I’ve mastered the V950 I bought a Blade 180 cfx and can’t wait to test it out.

@@gregorydawson6249 You may be shocked at how much faster and more nimble is it. I have a 300CFX which flies really nicely but I'm super careful with it as I don't want to crash it. While the variable pitch tails are nice, they are prone to damage if you crash them. That's why I like the brushless motor tails, may not work quite as well but are more forgiving as we work on our piloting skills. Have fun!

Haha! The hungry dog is on a diet at the moment as she's too fat! We must have given her something to eat :)

@@andreagrigolo3224 Non ci sono impostazioni sulla KBar per una flybar, tuttavia è possibile aggiungere KBar lasciando ancora la flybar in posizione. Quando l'ho provato con lo ZYX e il flybar del V912 non mi piaceva perché a volte era difficile alzare il muso. Ho avuto diversi arresti anomali a causa di ciò, altrimenti non sembrava poi così male nell'unico video che ho fatto. Tuttavia, senza flybar e con le lame Xtreme era molto meglio! Nota che senza flybar non è più autolivellante, quindi è come pilotare un elicottero CP completo. Video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pa-KYJZ7r6i7fXk.html&ab_channel=FlyingboatsRCG

@@andreagrigolo3224 OK. Ho provato un giroscopio GA250 con flybar e coda senza spazzole all'inizio, ma non ho ottenuto ottime prestazioni di coda. La mia configurazione del motore e dell'elica non era buona allora, forse il giroscopio era a posto. Se si desidera controllare solo la coda (ma non i servi), è possibile utilizzare un controller di volo a 3 assi ma con uscita solo coda. Probabilmente molto lavoro. In alternativa puoi tenere la scheda V913 di serie e provare il controllo della coda collegando un BLHeli ESC direttamente al pin di controllo del mosfet della coda sulla scheda V913. Anche in questo caso può essere un bel lavoro! È simile a come ho controllato un motore brushless su un FX71: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bbCUY9GdsN-bp2Q.html

@@FlyingboatsRCG ok got it. thanks 😊

The main motor and tail motors are controlled by mosfets. These are the large and slightly smaller 3 pin connection electronic components situated immediately ahead of the the main and tail motor connection plugs. The mosfets have 3 connections: one from the battery, one to the motor plug, and the 3rd connection pin/leg is from the central processor to control the mosfet (the signal connection or more correctly called the Mosfet Gate). In this case I soldered the white wire to the underside of the board where this pin/leg protruded through. See the video at 2:07. Note that later versions of the FX071C boards would not work with a BLHeli ESC because the throttle signal PWM frequency was changed to a faster signal (possibly 16KHz) which is outside the range of standard BLHeli ESC's. Note that some later model ESC's may support this however I have no experience of these to share.

@@FlyingboatsRCG Men ur the best! U deserved a repect!💯

@@justinelaceup7553 Thanks -good luck with it :)

@@brettmccafferty7510 No idea what the parts are like these days, it's a long time since my 950 arrived! But flight characteristics improved most when all the main gear, shaft and head assembly were also swapped over to MasterCP parts along with the Blue Arrow servos. Always flew mine with Devo 10 Tx. Microheli are making some really nice parts for them but $'s... My next heli will be from OMP, either a new M1, or the M2. Heaps more money but a friend who's hugely into modding bought an M2 and he's done nothing to it, just out of the box and flown. There's simply nothing required to improve it although latest ones have tunable flight controller. Had a fly of it and it is absolutely stunning. Totally crisp, smooth along with stunning performance. Much more expensive but as you say, you get what you pay for!

@@FlyingboatsRCG thanks for replying. That is the one I ordered. I have this in a UH-1y model, scaled with XK k110 mechanics. With a Flyfun 12a connected straight through to the receiver based on another video I saw. Works but the main motor seizes so I am looking at the RCG setup. For now, I have a second 1s battery powering the receiver and servos. It works ok - 5 min flying time and definitely worth it. I will try the separate voltage regulator when it comes in. Thank you again.

@@FlyingboatsRCG I basically wired an 1s battery to the B+ and B- power connector (where the voltage regulator in the RCG method usually gets hooked up). The red wire in the throttle cable from the ESC is disconnected. What I found is that with this set up, if I can use a small 150 mah battery, it will take additional load off of the main battery. For scale flying, it gives me longer flight.

@@chongyim6212 Yes that makes sense, but there must be a connection somewhere that links the 2 battery negatives (black wires) together. Actually the signal cable from the receiver should have black and signal wires only -that would do it. I don't know why your motor was stopping..... Is the 2S battery in good condition?

@@FlyingboatsRCG thanks again for all the ideas

@@mopatop3921 Did try that but didn't work. Turned out it was the BEC which only was putting out way less than it's advertised 3A. Ran parallel BEC's then changed over to Birdbarber's recommended Buck converter which was lighter, cheaper and better! Take a look at www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=38438695&postcount=2487

Tell us if there is a better 1S 100 sized micro, and why so many people flying other brands have gravitated to the K110's due to handling. performance, crashability and pricing?

No setup tail like a 333Hz 1520us servo e.g. 9254 VBar option, and set the ESC with normal range. This means at a low setting tail will be stopped or near stopped, and hard out at a high setting. TBH I haven't ever really nailed this as chucked the 250 in the cupboard after a tuning crash. Rebuilt during lockdown but ran out of parts which have only just arrived. I think I'm not running enough headspeed on current setup to keep the KBar happy so may need to buy and fit a bigger pinion before I can tune the tail better. The key to it is in the advanced tail settings. Take a look at this thread but be careful to benchcheck any settings before flying -some of these were horrid on my 250: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3207131-Kbar-Brushless-tail-%28-K120-and-Master-CP-Mod%29

@@FlyingboatsRCG FlyingboatsRCG yes,i ha! It is really like a tank to me ,too ! i bought this heli a month ago ,and with all the countless crashes ,it still survive!!! I think I finally found one that can really play all along. And maybe later, i will try to do the modification you did , hope it can fly well like this^^! Thanks for your video, it really inspiring me!

@@lowbudgethobbiesguy4107 Cheers :)

Devo 10 flashed with Deviation firmware (see www.deviationtx.com/ ) and the Devo 10 is fitted with a 4 in one radio module (see www.banggood.com/CC2500-NRF24L01-A7105-CYRF6936-4-In-1-RF-Module-For-Walkera-D7E-D10-Transmitter-p-1096707.html?cur_warehouse=CN ). With this I can directly control most of the current 2.4GHz models including the small XK helicopters. The new RadioMaster TX16S and Jumper T18's also have the same ability although they are running OpenTx instead of Deviation. Brilliant stuff -one radio to control them all!

Salut. Merci d'avoir regardé mes vidéos :) Cet hélicoptère vole bien, mais pas très bien avec le CC3D. Il souffre de tremblements et je ne peux pas m'en débarrasser. De plus, si je vole en mode 3G / 3D, la maniabilité est mauvaise. Je veux essayer différentes cartes de contrôleur de vol. Je ne vous recommande donc pas d'essayer cela avec CC3D. À votre santé

Have a K123 head on the way to try on my second 2S K110 build and plan to convert this one to a 2 blade DFC head using a K124 head. But looking forward to the 3 blade which will get an 8.5mm 2S tail. Great little helicopters!!

Despite how long ago this was, my 250 has mostly been sitting around following a crash. I am yet to get the KBar well tuned with the brushless tail motor, and currently I'm waiting for more 250 parts to complete the rebuild. There is a thread on RCGroups where some guys have had success with KBar but be warned, if you use their settings your helicopter may or not not fly properly. I tried some of them and they were completely wrong for my setup! Best tip is to unplug your main motor, then experiment with the settings while handholding the heli. Once the response seems reasonable, then try flying it. Also make sure you use a quality brushless ESC. I'm now onto my 3rd one on the 250, running a LittleBee 20A Opto Pro with original BLHeli software. These are a very fast acting ESC which is important for tail response. They can be run either with the Multicopter flash, or the Tail firmware flash. See thread: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3207131-Kbar-Brushless-tail-%28-K120-and-Master-CP-Mod%29

Are you asking what the GY550 settings were? To be honest it was so long ago, and I discovered that tail gyro when I converted the V912 to flybarless with the Tarot ZYX. It flies so much better without the flybar!

Yes. It has an MPU6000 chip with 3 axis gyro, plus 3 axis accelorometer so can offer both 3G and self stabilised 6G. To be honest I don't recommend trying this, as it's a lot of work/learning plus I never got it flying really well in 3G. Helicopter specific flight controllers are a better option unless you really like spend a lot of time tuning/testing and experimenting!