Probably only uses 5v DC from the PCM to the sensor. 12 could probably burn it out. Most sensord use 5 v as a reference from the PCM. Basically...Then the sensor sends a certain voltage signal back to PCM according to its purpose, if it is working properly, and its signal will send its volts back to the PCM which will control other things, like more fuel, pressure, air, oil, etc...

How can I purchase this software for my lap top and the OBD2 adapter? I would like it for my 7.3/2001

If you read the directions on the screen you will note that on " Diesels" it will show spike in upward direction due to the pcm over-correcting and adding fuel to compensate.

Connecting rod pin and bearings. Right side pinion bearing cage was also bad.

people do not use this video as a basis for a bad ipr.

If you have never worked on one of these or have never been anything but an assistant to your buddy that's working on YOUR ride. Just shut up and don't make yourself look ignorant. He didn't burn up anything. I've personally taken these out cleaned out that POS screen that always comes apart, hooked them to a car battery with some air to make sure it functions put them back in and ran it.

John, please keep this video up! This sound is the sound of a worn crank pin/con rod lower end bearing, and this video is the only video that captures this sound perfectly. My bike made the same exact rhythmic whirring sound and it drove me crazy, because it's so hard to describe. I took it to a shop, and the mechanic said it sounds like the crank pin/ bearing is worn. I thought it might be be right because of this video. When the engine was torn down, the front con rod lower bearing was toast, and the crank pin was galled. There were metal shavings throughout the lower end. $1500 dollars later, I'm back on the road. Thank you for posting this video, it helped me know what the cause of that crazy noise was!

Very Good!..

How much for software

Sir. Where is your test of a known good working IPR. You only made half of an experiment.

Good job sparky

if your going to publish a video with this problem , fucken follow thru with it on the fix you fucken moron ... some ppl are just dicks at birth!

Ipr is normally open and as you crank the computer wants to see at least 500 psi it archives this by closing thats why its a bad thing to see the ipr hit 85% because it closed all the way and youre still not getting the oil pressure this test is useless. Also just an fyi once you arc it like that its trash

Did you find the problem ?

The IPR grounds through itself, one of the wires is battery voltage and the other is a control used by the ecm

Shut it down lol people if u hear this please shut it off and learn how to rebuild the lower end its not hard

What was the problem that it wouldn’t start

Did you ever find out what was causing the clanking sound? I have a similar sound that's driving me more nuts!?

Finally someone gets the video done right. A video that actually shows the "wtf" sound. 👍

Rella e it already geez

soon as you started cranking. is is clearly evident your IPR is shot. Need to clean or replace.

John r u still around

Ecm pulses ground to it to operate and needs the same voltage close to what the battery is pushing or no dice

You fried it. 5 volts max!!!!! It stays open when off to bleed oil back to oil pan. When starting and running it holds back pressure 5 volts max to close it

Is that sound of the truck normal? Mine has similar sound when idle.

Hey thats the same noise as chitty chitty bang bang makes.....

1657 original miles on your bike? Was this video taken years ago and not published until 2015? I thought I was lucky to find an 18 year old Evo with only 26,000 miles on .

If it died while driving it's most likely the snap to connect fitting on the hpop

real simple whoever did put it together didn't put it together right

Hello, I´ve seem to have the same problem in my Softail Evo. Does the sound goes louder if you raise the rpm? Thanks

Is this the generic version or the Ford one?

So, I'm having some start issues and only reaching 1000psi at full throttle (should be around 4300psi), on my 2004 F250 6.0. Hooked up 40psi air the way you did and it leaks the same way. Have you tested a new IPR to see if that is good or bad?

Hi.guys that valve is command for Pwm,1000hz if you pulse it ,like in the video ,the valve will be damage..

Couldn’t you just test the resistance?? I know on my 3126 cat you can

You get a dislike due to the saying of "ever so slightly"

how much

I would like to know what type of symptoms you are having. I see allot of people posting videos of what they are fixing but most people don't give the reason for the fix to begin with.

just saying, the last time i checked voltage from the ipr connector it was 12 volts and i do believe it is a regulator and not a sensor

Ipr valve screen/cleaning is probably all you needed..? That oil cap wasn't factory therefore that filter wasn't doing anything. I was searching autoenginuity and this vid popped up. How do you like the software?

crank shaft is done,had the case! :-(

IPR failure.. Can tell from the Voltage.

thank i had to order mine either way put the same 12 volts and nothing at all so waiting for arrival hopefully my truck gets better with the change of ipr and the icp. icp was bad either way

that ipr trying to replace mine but want to make sure that connection suppose to move freely or not at all

not the proper way to test ipr, and 12v will not damage ipr unless you leave it connected for longer then 30 seconds per diagnostics manual, 10 International tech!

Did replacing it work

You can trick the pcm and connect resistors into the system.

peter check the ipr most likely a high pressure leak look at ron`s you tube rip ron

ipr can be tested with 12 v for 30 s it will move

most automotive sensors run 5 volts are you sure it needs 12v?

you command it close when doing an air test. you also charged it with 12v instead of 5, you trashed it.