M1.8 flat-head machine screws appear to be very hard to obtain (at least here in the USA). I'm considering just using M2x5 -- perhaps rethreading with an M2 tap if needed.

To answer my own question: Yes, the wheel hub is designed to be separated during assembly. Thread all the lower 12 C-spokes and then lower the partial-hub + 12 spokes using a tweezer on to the main hub assembly. It is important that each spoke go through its target (the pentagon shaped space) as this is lowered. Now twist the partial-hub clockwise (about 15 degrees) so the first 12 C-spokes are in the proper orientation. Don't push the partial hub all the way down just yet. Now thread the remaining 12 C-spokes one at a time in the top-most ring of holes. For each spoke aim for the triangle that the spoke is supposed to go through. It is possible to tilt the partial hub backwards just enough to let the hook end of the spoke drop through the triangle space -- without getting the already placed spokes out of position. No bending or pushing is needed. When all 12 of the upper spokes are in position, then push the partial hub down on the main hub. Flip it around and make sure the 'hooks' of all 24 C-spokes are in the right slots and tighten the cover over it. Done.

Hallo Vincent, sorry! Wohin hast du die Anfrage geschickt? Bitte nutze diesen Link, damit wir dir schnell helfen können: lemkecollection.de/kundenservice/ Die E-Teile sind vorrätig. VG

The step 91 instructions in the printed manual are indeed wrong. 5.082 should attach to 5.083. It is shown correctly in the diagram for step 93 and 94! Built this way, the support arm works in the same way as the door supports, locking nicely when the trunk is in the open position.

@@kelderek0 agree. That is how I proceeded as well.

Don't give up yet, use a little glue on each of the spokes, and with patience you will achieve it. I am no expert and I have already finished it, I have even put light on the dashboard and the front and rear lights. A good piece, shame about the cables that are not very solid, as well as the fixation of the screws that can be difficult in plastic. Cheer up everyone!

@@JosepCarlesCardona In the step at 7:20 -- when he flips the spacer/holder around, how do the B-spokes remain in place? When I did that, they all fall out. Are you supposed to glue them in place?

@@sakumarIt worked perfectly for me using a Tamiya Extra thin tip glue. Fix the spokes with a small amount of glue, alternate the wheels so that when you turn it over the previous one is already dry and fixed to the rim, then place the other spokes safely but very carefully. Good luck and keep going!

@@JosepCarlesCardona Thank you for this suggestion! Now I have the B and A spokes installed. However, the C spokes are proving to be exceptionally difficult. I’ve even watched the video at 0.25 speed and still can’t figure out exactly what needs to be done. Do these have to be bent (within the elastic tolerance)? I can’t see how they can be installed without bending. Or is there a method where the hub part that the C spokes attach to needs to be separated from the main hub? It pops off rather easily. (This part looks like a miniature pasta strainer) I will really appreciate any further tips. Thanks again.

or snip a PS21 a bit shorter...had to do that on the two dashboard switches in the next step also.

Where are those tips located? I'm at this stage now and until now there were already several mistakes in manual. Piping scheme is insufficient, even with this video...

there are a number of small errors, both in the manual and in the videos, but with careful attention and cross checking, all becomes clear.

the small ones go in the trunk. 2 small front wheels and 2 big rear wheels.

They don't come with the kit. (A hard copy of the build manual itself is included). It would be nice if they could make a .pdf of the worktable hardware layout sheets available.

Die Corvette von Agora spielt mehrere Ligen unter dem Lemke SLR. Hat nur 500 Teile. Halb so viele wie der 300 SLR.

@@Nero-ex1cs absoluter Blödsinn, hat weniger Teile aber von der Technik wesentlich aufwendiger und vollgepackt mit elektrik, zB. Elektr. klappscheinwerfer, die Qualität ist wesentlich hochwertiger, Le Grande hat mehr Teile weil es auch Speichenfelgen hat, da werden sogar die Speichen jedes einzeln gerechnet, also erst denken, dann schreiben !

@@cocozamis6666schau dir mal den motor des 300 slr an. so viele details findet man bei keinem anderen 1:8-bausatz. wie kann man da ernsthaft glauben, dass es schrott ist?!

Hallo Nero, wir haben leider noch nicht alle Teile da, da unser Schiff durch den Kap-Umweg ca. 4 Wochen verspätet (31.03.) eintrifft. Es ist wirklich ein Kreuz und ziemlich nervig, aber damit müssen wir nun leben! Wir werden aber ab heute anfangen die bereits vorhandenen E-Teile zu verschicken und ggf. noch andere BS öffnen, um alle zu versorgen.

Hallo Nero, falls die Teile noch nicht da sind, bitte eine kurze Info an die [email protected]. Danke!

@@lemkecollectionHabe sie vor einiger Zeit erhalten. Sehr guter Kundenservice! Das Modell ist mittlerweile fertig und erstrahlt in voller Pracht. Eine Augenweide 😍

Are you happy with it?

Mostly screws, minor parts partly glue.

Yes it does 😊

Aus Freude wurde nach dem Bau des ersten Models eine ziemliche Enttäuschung, den zweiten werde ich wieder veräußern, der Bau hat keinerlei Spaß bereitet, die Passgenauigkeit und Qualität war ziemlich enttäuschend, schade hatte mich so drauf gefreut.

It will be like 7000 dollars then and you won't but it and that's why they are selling it as a kit

@@user-doochang do i understand correctly that it Will be worth more if you build it instead of keeping it unboxed? Thinking of reselling hence the question 😊

@@ubuntucapital-hn3yp What I said above was that the first comment said that he/she wanted to buy this kit as a completed one, but what I meant was that if the kit was sold as a complete model, the prices will go up(labor), and people wouldn't buy it.