Initially I was using the standard Marlin firmware and they worked fine, but they only ran on 100% fan speed. Anything less than 100%, they would shut off. When I switched to Klipper firmware, I didn’t have that issue anymore. When I did my research about this issue, I found out that you have to install PWM 5015 fans instead of standard 5015 fans in order to adjust fan speed in marlin. If your fans aren’t working at all, check your connections for loose or broken wires

Thanks, friend!

Absolutely. Glad you liked the video

The A1 is a decent up grade for multi color, but I love my K1 for printing parts

@@JeDoVi3D Yeah I keep trying to tell ppl.... it's a monster

Are you talking about the filament runout sensor wire?

Thanks. I’ll definitely check in to see what they can do for us

Thank you so much. I’m glad you like the video

Lol It’s really a nice looking calibration test. The benchy has specific tests and measurements to see if your printer is printing correctly. Check this out www.3dbenchy.com/dimensions/

@@JeDoVi3D yeah but I would rather print something useful something I would actually use not probably throw away I got into 3D printing about 6 months ago and I haven't printed one benchy

Thank you so much! I'm glad you liked it!

Troy’s adapter didn’t fit?

Of course!! Glad you like the video

You’re going to have to change your printing parameters in your printer.config file. Are you using Marlin or Klipper?

Thank you so much! I’m glad you liked the video

Glad you liked. Every slicer seems to work easier than Creality slicer smh. Hopefully they up date it with more features

Thank you Matt. Glad you like the video

The printer may have physical shifted when you changed out the filament. It doesn’t home when you hit resume, so it could have moved in the process. Keep me updated if it happens again

Thank you so much! Glad you liked it

Thanks. I’m glad you liked the video. I would have to do some research to see if this works, but… use the layer slider to find the layer you want the change to occur. Once on the layer use the Step Number Slider to find the location Go to the G-Code button in the G-Code Preview menu The location should be highlighted. Place your pause g-code above that location when you edit the g code

Thanks brother. Setting up the stream location. I’ll be starting it very soon. Thank you for watching

Glad the video helped you out 😎😊

Yea, all the companies are coming out with these exciting new and fast printers. My old printers are just getting some restoration love from me lol

Yeah, true. I've subscribed to see where this build goes. All the best mate

I appreciate the feedback. You’re absolutely right, it is a mess lol. I’m still doing some wrap up work. Some of the connections need to be changed to jst-xh. Once I’m done doing that, I’ll put some hose tape on along with some tubing to tidy it up

I just received my modified plate from pcb way. The linear rail install video will be out after I replace my Sovol 04 IDEX hotends with Creality sprite ones. That’s the next video. As far as the wire, I wish I would’ve found out about that before I made my mess lol. But it still works great! Thanks bro

I’m glad you liked it!

M3 nuts and M3x8 bolts. You can longer if need be

@@JeDoVi3D Awesome thank you!

Did you have to remove the bottom ring from around the hotend/heat sink to install the hero me setup?

Yea, those are awesome. I’m going to try the beacon on my ng build

Thank you! I made the beat too

Thank you so much!

You have to adjust your E-Steps. Check out this video. It has great information for marlin and Klipper kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kMxygsyb0ZavlGQ.htmlsi=KGhmygekf6rcBxGg

I love it. I’ve recently made some major changes and will be putting out a video soon. It’s totally revamped now and printing waaayyyy better than before

Thank you so much! Welcome ❤️

Absolutely!! I got you. I’m working on a few things with the AnyCubic Kobra Max Right Now, but I definitely will create Klipper/Calibration Video. For the Ender 3! Thank you so much for joining the journey!

Thank you for watching. Join Flexi Factory Patreon. It is exclusive to their members

I’m pretty the Kobra max 2 is already a direct drive

I’m a true believer in “If it’s not broke, don’t fix it.” But a direct drive allows you to move filament into the nozzles at a faster and more accurate rate. You can print slightly faster, but it also makes it easier to print softer filaments like TPU

@@JeDoVi3D to say that in the old days, we said that the bowden was made for faster speeds lol... what makes the speed today I think is the speed of the new motor and motherboard... but hey...

Your right. Because it takes the extra weight off of the hotend, but the retraction time comes down and is more precise which helps the overall quality not speed of the print. My apologies

@@JeDoVi3D I understand. you are in direct drive now how fast do you print? my next one will be a bambulab but I'm waiting for a bigger tray to come out

I’m only printing at 125 mm/s with a 1800 mm/s acceleration. I am waiting for PCBway to send me a custom part and I am going to add linear rails on the Y and X axis to try and boost the speed a little more. Because of the size of the build plate, any acceleration higher than 2200 causes the printer to skip steps. But the printer is performing a lot better as far as flow and detail

Thank you so much for watching!!

Thank you! I’m glad you liked it!

Thank you so much! I’m glad you enjoyed it. Sorry for the delay in more content. I’m rebuilding my Kobra max and working on the tuning. More videos soon!

It stepped it up, right? This can still be good printers with some work. I’m going to be building an Ender NG live on this page once all of the parts come in. Make sure to check it out!

Thank you so much. I’m running some new g code into the Klipper config, but once I’m done, I’ll be posting a video of the updates

Definitely. I commented on your other comment. But we got you!

Hey, it was all about the journey you took to create it. No matter if you gave it away or not, nobody can take away the heart and soul you put in to create a printer that was tailor made for you!

@@JeDoVi3D Word, i now got a Mono 4k resin and looking for another filament printer, just dont to fall into the same run of changing hotends, levelssprings, plades, and more. Thx bro for a great little video. Best from Denmark and good weekend.

No problem. I noticed more of a speed difference than actual print quality. The retraction settings went down from 6.5 to around 1.2 so I was able to kick the print speed up a bit more

Absolutely. They move so smoothly after the upgrade

Yes. I’ll send it to you once I’m done

@@JeDoVi3D thanks. Here I made all the connections, but I have 2 problems. Using marlin directly in the prointerface for testing. It moves the axes all correctly, activates the cr touch, heats the table and nozzles... But when I tell it to go home, the Y sensor is inverted, when it is open it works as if it had closed. But if I press it and release it, it works. In the klipper, when I say home, the table keeps shaking and doesn't move in any direction.

I’m actually working on that same issue right now. That’s funny lol. I’m going to rewire the end stop directly to the board with a new wire connection. If that doesn’t work, I’m going to ground the connection to the printer at the end stop. I’ll keep you posted on how I make out

@@JeDoVi3D Wow... haha ​​how cool. I tested it with a multimeter and the signal was correct. It seems to be something in the code. At least I thought it was. Here at least it seems to only have this problem and then test the CR touch, right. I installed the Creality extruder.

Reverse the end stop pin in the printer config file. Place a “!” In front of the pinout’s signal name. For example… endstop_pin: ^PC1 changes to endstop_pin: ^!PC1 that will change your y-axis endstop trigger to work in the normally open position

Thank you so much. I’m glad you liked it

Of course. I’m glad you liked the video

Thank you so much for watching. Let me know how that comes out. It can be tricky because ABS needs to remain at temperature while it prints and requires a higher temp to print. TPU can be printed at its highest temps around ABS’s low to mid range temperatures, but may have some stringing issues. And, that’s if the ABS doesn’t begin to shrink once you open the enclosure and let the heat out. If you calculate things correctly, I’m sure you can get it done. Please let me know how you make out

Lol. There are so many efficient printers out of the box these days, the old Enders seem like a waste of time, but if you got one, you can still make it rock! But I feel you, lol!

Thank you so much. I’m glad you appreciate it ❤️🙏🏾