The best method to remove excess hot solder is with a paint brush. but dont get your gas torch flame near it. hee hee

imagine growing weed in one of those bad boys

sick intro

This proceeding is partially wrong. The 4 corners bed levelling must be done with heated bed and with heated and fully clean nozzle. After you have set the Z offset you have to find the real Z = Zero position of the nozzle (Slightly touching the bed surface) and save it, otherwise the Z distances will be interpreted mistakeously, and you cannot reach prefect prints with the highest print quality. After you have run the autolevelling function you can finnaly save the bed mesh and disable the auto bed levelling at the beginning of any new print. Whatch the available you tube videos for all that.

I would like to ask for the exact coil diameter and wire size, exact capacitor capacity, thank you

I've bought 2 replacements on Bezozan. But they failed pretty quickly. There is a mod of sorts. Some chap came up with a way to reprogram a Byson BMS(all name are changed to protect the guilty, and are they ever) but it's not for the faint of heart kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mt2pdJijp9DSk5s.html. But it doesn't fix the lack of resistors necessary for the BMS to balance the batteries which is the true fix for this problem. But you did reveal something additional that is important. that is the battery pack's ability to high discharge. My goal was to get a replacement pack that can facilitate operating the vacuum on "MAX" for more than the 6 min. that the manual says the vacuum will run at. Preferably for 15 min. or more. Because, let's face it, MAX is the only truly effective suction on one of these little beasties. So I've been seeing mods that let you run power tool battery packs on Byson's. I have the impression that these types put out more amps for longer than the Bysons. And who knows, they may have a BMS that actually balances the packs each time you charge. So I'm off to research more. But a big THANK YOU to Hansom for this very informative vid. And a nod to Mr Byson for crippling his fine product so effectively. You reap what you sow.

My dog looooves these rice balls which is so great bc she isn't able to eat most treats!

Hi, if you disconnect a Dyson BMS (like for many laptop BMS now) and change the cells , it locks down definitively (red light) after new connection. So you cannot change the cells, with obligation to buy a new pack. I add that the motor drains a lot of amps (more than 20A with Max) to run, and the only voltage control is not enough. It's necessary to control first of all the internal resistance of each cell. You can often still have a good voltage level (I opened a lot of Dyson packs with more than 4V/cell) but with too high IR ; so if you drain too much amps on such a "tired" battery , voltage falls and the BMS stops the current. Simply an usual BMS allows the recharge...but Dyson's BMS not! With these Dyson batteries with only one cells row (2 rows in // would be much better...but commercilly uninteresting) don't use the max power. That kills these weak batteries very quickly : Max power = max amps discharge in a short time , and Lithium cannot support this torture a long time, even with good 30A cells. With 2 // rows it would be half as much per cell. But life time would be too long for Dyson! Friendly, Michel.

Good!

it could be because MAX power mode is turned on, switch max power off and use normal mode. unless you have 20A batteries I don't think it'll work.

Thank you very much, my install went well!!

Thank you for this brilliant tutorial! I want to build it too. And I really want to know how thick is this PCB board.

great video. have all the parts here, need to build it too.

What kind of attenuators do you have before the input of the PA, and where did you buy them?

Thanks for the video, I could not figure out how to open the battery. I had a wire going to the charger point come unsoldered. It is fixed now and working great!

I have a Dyson V10 battery (brand new) with the same problem. 27.0 volts but will not start the vacuum

bridge between negative power supply, with the 30A micro fuse (for charging)

minimum load on the connector must be 100 watts, otherwise it is not switched on

use the tester on 20A on each single cell, about 30A (which depends on the cross section of the tester wires)

often the fault and transistor U4 npn ev. D2, D14

I'm in the process of building a portable QO-100 system. I've got the DXPatrol LNB with GPS and the neck between the flange and LNB electronics is quite long. I'm using this with a POTY so my thinking is to drill slots into the 22mm copper pipe of the POTY and use a jubilee clip (not sure how to translate - it's a circular compression joint with a worm drive to tighten) to clamp the POTY waveguide to the outer part of the body of the waveguide of the LNB. I'm just a little concerned with reflections and insertion loss with this approach.

Hans, thank you for the video. It help me to assemble this POTY antenna variant for test with several others. Good results are also obtained by using flux and thin solder instead of solder paste. Instead of a gas torch I used HG6531CK Makita Head Gun. 73!

Tnx 👍

For $20 you can buy a battery on eBay which will bring your Dyson back to life. At least you realise you wasted your time time doing this. My cheap Chinese eBay battery is amazing!

What is you call sign

Yep same problem and I’ve got 3 batteries I think that Dyson programmed in a designed obsolescence into the bms so I removed all the components of the bms and just run the batteries in series with a switch and have the charger on a 1 hour timer to charge if the batteries get out of balance on just balance them manually it crude but effective lol

Thank you for this excellent video. We see these type of problems quite often in our Repair Café. Although I did not yet try this, I think it will be a senible option to scrap the Dyson charger PC board and replace it by a so-called S6 balanced charger board that you can buy at any supplier of electronic stuff on the internet for a small price. You will find these PC boards in model racing cars and the like. Their design is pritty simple and geared to the 18350 standard LiPo cells that you will use for the repair job. These printed circuits do not have this special "repair prevention" design that the standard Dyson charger apparently is equipped with. Before buying check the dimension of the S6 charger print to be sure it will fit.

I’m not sure why people are opening the battery pack. You can go on eBay and buy a replacement battery with double the amp hours for 1/10 of the cost of the vacuum new.

Hello Hans, which dual path feed version that suit the bullseye LNB? V1, V1.1g, V1.2g or the V2.1 what are the different between these version. Thanks

you must solder F CONNECTOR bouth side

great video and explanation! well done mate! thanks for sharing!

Thanks Hans. I do enjoy your videos!

Thanks

Good morning Hansom. How long is the 20mm copper tube?

Schönes Video ! Beim Löten ist das Rohr zu kalt, weil der Schraubstock zu viel Wärme wegzieht. Dadurch läuft das Lot zu sehr auf die Platte anstelle in den Lötspalt. Entweder das Rohr höher spannen oder was zur Wärmeisolierung unterlegen. Anstelle der Flamme geht auch ein Heißluftgebläse sehr gut.

IT-S OK BUT MUST PUT THE BOARD IN METAL BOX

Nice video , Greetings from Belgium 73 👍

The original Dyson BMS does NOT have balancing. It monitors the individual cell voltages and permanently shuts down the lack if any cells are under or over voltage. That causes the Red Llight Of Death led blinking. You cannot reset it, you have to replace the PCB, but that is cheap if you buy from Aliexpress, etc. For the 10 blue blinks, you probably have over-current.That is typically caused by blccked filters, so try temporarily removing them all plus the whole dust canister and see if the vacuum will run OK.

when re-soldering, just tape over the possible short circuit points ... If battery is new, charged, no blockages, then, as last resort, remove and re-fit battery ... twice this has worked on my SV06

Hi, thanks for the video. I’ve made the bias T just like your bias t. What is the receiving frequency of ssb reception?

where do you get ground spacers like that? so much better than my solution

I'm having the exact same issue with mine, but I haven't even replaced the batteries yet. Charges for a few minutes then stops, cells still show a state of discharge (one is slightly lower than the rest but around 4v), runs vacuum for about 3-4 seconds then blinks 10 times indicating a state of discharge... Apparently the fix is a new BMS board.

Thx for a detailed video, Will use your intructions to install same nuts on my cr-10s pro v2, thx again 🤟

Hi. They are the lead 2mm, 4mm or 8mm? When i go purchase, they ask that. Thank you very much.

Hi there, does this work with the V2?

have you noticed any Z banding after doing this?

sir thank you so much for the teardown , thanks to you I was able to do mine, apart from that İ got a problem with my dyson if you can enlighten me, i would be grateful; PROBLEM: i just bought a multimetre today and measured both battery and the main body , battery was ok 23,5 V . I measured the main body for the first 3 seconds i got the beep sound and it stoped. Can i assume there is a short circuit in main body? But when i insert the battery it works with no problem . After 5 mn of working it gives me the red flashing light and stops. Then i remove the battery and press the button to check it , it gives blue light and 23V which means it is ok ? What can the red light result from even though battery and main body works ok? thanks in advance

In Deutsch wäre auch schön!

Thank you for the video. I did the same thing, but unlike yours, my BMS started blinking red, which is the kiss of death. I suspect your problem was caused by using replacement batteries which are not rated for high load currents. A 30A rated cells should work fine.

dude, thank you so much for the vide. I have been strugllin with the same damn problem for the last 3 weeks,, great video thanks again