The Ohlins cartridges weren’t available when I was building the bike so I went with GP because they were local to me.

The tail and the rest of the bodywork is from Amour Bodies.

Hey, Omar. I sent my forks to GP suspension to get my cartridges installed. I didn’t have the right tools for the job and didn’t want to pay for them so it made more sense to let the pros install them.

@@skwidvids Understandable. I'd love to see an update on your bike. Your content and delivery style is great

@@Omar411269 Much appreciated! Haven’t been doing nearly as much riding as I intended but I’m hoping to get back on the track really soon.

Thanks. Doesn’t matter if the bodywork and fuel tank was on, the process would be the same.

@@skwidvids REAR OHLINS SHOCK ABSORBER 2S001579 is correct 👍???for my Aprilia RS 660 2023

Adjustability. You can make the grip to the bars wider or narrower.

Glad it helped

I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. It’s the same engine. If you’re sure about going the UpMap route, you could reach out to Gabro Racing to confirm.

@@skwidvids alright thanks for the reply.

You can get a lightweight rotor from Norton Motorsports. There’s less rotor material so you’ll have to press harder on the brake lever compared to oem. Which also makes it harder to accidentally lock the rear wheel. And the rotor looks cool which is a bonus.

Thanks a lot bro! I want that lighter rotor and titanium bolts but in gold color. Man you just gave me another reason to spend more money lol. 💪🏻

Yep! But that would mean having to source and purchase a lot of hardware. Worthwhile for some folks. Not for me.

Sorry for the late reply! Honestly, no. The oem suspension offers a much more plush ride but I was trying to get more feedback and adjustability from my suspension which is why I made the switch.

Oh okay makes sense! I feel like rs660 rides a little rough. That’s why I was asking. I get a little too scared when I’m leaning and you can feel a little too much of the bumps lol. Makes me not want to lean as much. I had a bmw r nine t prior to the rs660 and I think it r nine t has a better ride and you can still get good feedback. Thanks for the response

@@emang6284The 660 might be a bit more sporty feeling than your previous bike so it might take some getting used to. ​​⁠​⁠The weight of the rider is certainly a factor. I weigh 165 without gear and the oem shock worked well enough on the road. If you got an aftermarket shock with the correct spring for your weight, it might actually help with the harsh feeling. The Ohlins shock is sprung quite heavy. I went two rates lower than what it came with and it’s still pretty harsh.

Yes I understand the rs660 is more sportier and I did get used to it. As well I had the stock suspension adjusted to my weight of 175. So do you still recommend the ohlins? I saw on their website that you tell them your weight when you order the shock. You went lower than that? Because I do want something a little more soft however I don’t want to lose complete feeling of the road.

@@emang6284 The Ohlins would be a good choice but people have complained about the spring being too heavy for them. The recommended spring for me was far too heavy. Maybe a factor is that my bike is quite a bit lighter than a stock 660. Especially in the back. If you’re just looking for improved comfort, K tech makes an oem replacement. I think it’s called Razor R Lite or something like that. I think that would be a better option because it’ll give you more adjustments than oem , spring rate options and it’s almost half the cost of the Ohlins.

It’s certainly not cheap but I don’t think one could build a similar spec machine for less.

45k

I appreciate the feedback! Yeah, I’m sure it can be done without removing the radiator but as you said, once the fins are damaged, it looks bad but it reduces cooling. Which happens to be one of the issues with this bike in the first place so it made sense to just move the rad out the way.

Thanks! There’s a link in the description.

It would be fine for street but honestly, I would’ve left mine stock if I were riding on the street.

@@skwidvids why is that?

@@FutureProductionz239the biggest reason is that the stock ergonomics are more comfortable for street riding where you’ll be spending more time in the middle of your bike as compared to moving side to side like you would during track riding. The taller oem position also makes it easier to quick steer because you’re able to generate more leverage from a neutral riding position.

@@skwidvids i daily a zx6r and rc390 as well. So i dont really care much for the comfort but more for the aggressive look.

@@skwidvids love your vids man! thank you for the RS660 content!

@@Omar411269 I appreciate the feedback!

Thanks for the feedback! I got the fairings from Woodcraft. They are Armour Bodies. Really good quality. I had a 675r and if I were to compare the two bikes, I’d say the 660 feels like a slight downgrade as far as power and chassis. The 660 is a different class of motorcycle though. For what it is, it’s a great machine. Fun, flickable and for a small parallel twin, the motor is snappy and offers good power. Excellent street bike with all of the rider assists and comfortable(ish) seating position.

@@skwidvids Thanks for that info. Yeah, I have to admit the 675r is pretty much all I need. Fully loaded with Ohlins and the previous owner fitted a TC system too. Still the 660 looks and sounds cool. My wife is seeking help for my addiction!! Cheers

Thanks, Nick! I appreciate the feedback! They took a long time to set up and it feels worth it when someone appreciates the effort.

Thanks! I had to choose between the camera facing forward or facing me and figured the race would be more excited to watch.

Yep 👍🏼

Congrats on the new bike!

Thank you very much!

Ha! Wouldn’t qualify for any race classes anymore. Besides, putting a turbo doesn’t make much sense to me on a moderately fast bike when you can just buy a much faster bike.

​@@skwidvids "660 handles due to the chassis and weight": True. Chassis design and weight do influence how a bike handles. "Easily shave 20-25lbs in race trim": This can vary. Depending on the bike and the specific modifications made, weight reduction in race trim can be significant, but "easily" might be an overstatement. "Additional 25lbs with a turbo kit": Turbo kits do add weight but the exact amount can vary depending on the kit. "$5k on the turbo kit alone": The cost can vary based on the brand and complexity of the turbo kit. And this is a racebike so yea, anything fast is going to be expensive. "Internal motor parts need to be beefed up": True. Upgraded rods for this bike already exist. "Torque curve would be a nightmare": Partially true. Turbos can alter the torque curve and it might not always be linear. However, with modern tuning, the impact can be managed. "Power that a turbo delivers is near the peak of the rpm range": This is a bit of a generalization. Turbo lag, where most power comes at high RPMs, was a bigger issue in older turbo systems. Newer systems can have more linear power delivery. "Delicate throttle hand": Depends on tuning and rider skill. Turbos do require adjustment in riding style, especially on a motorcycle. "Handling characteristics would be gone with the added weight and power": More power and weight can change handling, but it doesn't mean all beloved characteristics would disappear. "Race rules change for more parody in classes": And while race rules evolve, it's hard to predict exactly how. "Doubt we'll ever see an exception made for turbos": Speculating about future regulations is just that - speculation.

@@ThaBootyBandit this was all a response to your comment, “install a turbo on it.” I’m not interested for the reasons listed above. By all means, if you have $5k (or more) to spare and don’t currently care about racing the 660 as current rules in any racing organization won’t allow it, go for it. Make a video about it and let’s see how it turns out.

It hasn’t been great. After installing the shock, I showed up to my first race with the 660 and couldn’t figure out why I was bouncing off of every bump. Turns out, In addition to the spring being much too heavy (although Ohlins claims it was suitable for my weight) there was no nitrogen in the bladder which meant I had no rebound damping during 3 races. It’s since been repaired and I have a softer spring but it still needs some fine tuning. This is probably a rare case for this shock, however.

@@skwidvids oh man what a bummer but at least you’ve got it pretty much sorted. I just bought the RS660 Extrema and love it so far. Your videos are super helpful when considering upgrades.

@@pistolpete6321Appreciate that. Congrats on the new bike.

My bad for the delay. I knew that I wanted to race in a more “budget friendly” class and the twins seemed like the obvious choice at the time. Unless you’re a casual track day rider who doesn’t care about having the most competitive machine or you have the ability (or money) to build an R7, the 660 is the better choice for the price in my opinion. It hasn’t been the most reliable so I have had a bit of buyers remorse, no to mention losing my momentum in racing while racing for replacement parts. If I had to go back and do it again, I’d probably get something like the R6. Finding one at the time wasn’t an easy task as they were in such high demand and having ridden and being impressed with the 660 in stock trim, it made sense at the time. Not sure where you are in your riding level but if you’re looking for a smaller bike, I’d argue you can learn a lot from a 400 and on the cheap. Might suit that small track too.

​@@skwidvids Thank you so much for your comments. A Ninja 400 'aint gonna do it. It's not that I'm delusional with my riding abilities. More concerned with sinking a bunch of cash into an RS or R7 trying to make it handle like an R6, which of course is delusional. Over the last few years I've flogged both bikes for literally thousands of miles of tight corners on the backroads of the Texas Hill Country. Used to sprint and endurance at Texas World Speedway and other Texas tracks in the mid 1980’s and am still fearless, or stupid, which isn’t smart for the street. Gotta make a change. I really appreciate you speaking frankly about the topic though. It definitely has helped. Keep crushing on the track!

Thanks! These are from Armour Bodies. I was really impressed with the fit and finish. Even the painter was impressed. The belly pan can accommodate the oem exhaust which is convenient for those who don’t have a full system yet. Tail section is a bit different from oem but it still looks pretty good in my opinion.

@@skwidvids looks really good, you did a killer job on your bike I've watched all your videos. Im in the middle of building my rs to race spec as we speak so getting as much info as possible. Im in So cal so hopefully we can chat more see you out on the track

@@overlandoffroadThanks man. Hope the videos have helped. I’m not in CA anymore. Best of luck and give ‘em hell.

I don’t remember the weights of each item but I know the bodywork and the exhaust were pretty substantial.

@@skwidvids Thank you! I got The Extrema Version and already have the carbon exhaust and carbon parts, lithium battery so, beside the passenger's footpegs, mirrors and some minor stuff, I kind of it a wall in weight reduction.

@@rcrider7343 The extrema still uses the same type of tail section if I’m not mistaken. If that’s the case, removing the luggage platform would save some weight. I think the tail section alone weighs 12lbs.

I didn’t experience any fade. Or, at least not enough to be concerned about. My rotors aren’t stock but that wouldn’t make much of a difference. The biggest difference in heat dissipation are the pads and fluid choice.

It’s definitely worth trying at least once. As far as how smooth it is, I keep hearing about Eagles Canyon being incredibly smooth. I haven’t been there to confirm yet.

Those vents are from Strauss. They made killer carbon components but I don’t even know if they’re in business anymore. To be honest, I don’t think they’re necessary. Even for racing but if you want to get some anyway, I believe there are a couple of manufacturers who make them now.

It’s got a good amount of elevation change. Most of which are blind due to the grass being so tall.

It is a really fun track. But yeah, the lack of run off and guard rails can quickly become a problem if you aren’t aware of them and don’t give yourself a margin for error. Which was the only reason I pointed them out.

Funny, I was actually just telling someone about this recently. It went through the rear tire much faster than I expect but that was also a set up issue. Didn’t have the shock dialed in and was using the most aggressive engine map. I find that rear tire wears similarly to a 600 due to the torque. The SV was probably more forgiving because the engine didn’t offer as much torque as the 660. That said, mileage will vary on riding style and set up.

@@skwidvids Thanks. Been thinking of getting one to race and wanted to see what the tire budget might look like. Coming from an R1, it will be less for sure. You run 180s in the rear I presume?

@@matthewbruno5628 I got the 660 to replace my RSV4 for racing because I figured it would be more cost effective but, the difference is negligible at this point. Because the RSV4 torque curve was so smooth, the tire wear was excellent. I raced on one set of tires per race weekend several times so other than the cost difference between the 200 and 180, there isn’t much of a difference so far. To be fair, the RSV4 was more of a street bike that I threw bodywork on. The 660 is pretty much built like the trofeo which would cost significantly more to do on the RSV4.

Great idea, thanks!