Two holes, one through the adapter and one through the liner at least. Both filled with the screw hence instantly filling the holes.

Hope the hubby is well impressed with your mastery of the stripping skills :)

Thanks, you are the first to ask, so Iv'e no plans at the moment but will look in to it.

@@idostuffcouk I’m shocked I’m the 1st to ask. If you do end up making and selling them please let me know b/c I’ll share on a dark academia decor group I’m in…I think they’ll love it.

Hi, Now you are making me feel old. Just to note That door is still doing well and just having it's first repaint. The acrylic sealant is widely available in the UK, generically called frame sealant commonly used around door frames and windows. Yes the beading holding the panels in can be pinned (nailed) or even screwed on. However if you have built it well you shouldn't have to replace the panels (not in my life time anyway). Unlike glass it is highly unlikely to get broken.

@@idostuffcouk Hey man, lovely to get a reply from you!! Thank you so much :)

Did you have a go with this technique on your ceiling? How did it go? Got a ceiling to do myself.

No it wont work on cement based products. Fortunately I've never come across any used as textured coatings.

Have a look on my channel. The flue liner installation video is there.

I haven't but it could be worth a try, that stuff is a right faff to get off.

@@idostuffcouk 👍

Yes pencils. They leave a couple of holes. Then I can squirt some high pressure air down using a "blower" on the air line from my compressor.

What a ridiculous thing to say. Obviously one wouldn't pay "some mug," one would pay an experienced professional.

lol yea ok Mug@@KZfaqIsAssHo

I can't answer you on that, apart from to say that the adaptor has to be securely fixed to the flexi. Some manufacturers have adapters that screw on to the flexi but they have to match. If it is not secure the chances are that they will come apart especially whilst sweeping but due to expansion and contraction during use they could come apart as well. I suggest you contact the manufacturer or sales outlet.

Thanks for the reply. I have since discovered that it is a screw fitting. It was all purchased as a kit so it’s all good. Thanks.

I think you are asking if you can change from a rear exit to a top exit flue? Yes if you still can have the correct clearance at the back of the stove. Fire cement is brittle and not very "sticky" at all. If you tap around the pipe and do some twisting and pulling it should come out without damaging the pipe or adaptor assuming you can get any screws out first.

@@idostuffcouk yes sorry that's what I meant! thank you so much for getting back to me!

Great, would be good to know how you get on with it.

Hey! did it work? Im also thinking of trying this method on my celings first

Unfortunately not. Not sure what the "artex" type product actually is but it was more durable and tolerant of moisture than I hoped. Ended up biting the bullet and sanding the bulk of it down with a random orbit sander with 60 grit discs, regular cleaning of the shop vac filter to cope with the worst of the dust. Then sealed with 2 coats of diluted SBR (50:50 with water), then reskimmed the next day. The SBR is far superior to PVA and sealed the surface really well and vastly improved the plastering process. First time I've used SBR (always used PVA before). SBR is deffo the way to go and worth the extra cost. Not sure I really needed to sand the artex so heavily, in hindsight I reckon I could have skipped that step (and dust). I'm no expert on artex type materials but I suspect that the modern stuff is designed to be a lot more durable than the stuff from the 80's and 90's. No harm in trying a small area using the paste and newspaper trick first though before plumping for the effort and cost of a reskim. You've nothing to lose. Sadly, didn't work on my ceiling.

yep

No it needs to be one specified for solid fuels

It should be a closer fit than that, 5mm does sound a bit much. I would have a look at the manufacturers specifications and see if they are within tolerance and check if the adaptor is to small or the stove pipe too big. It would be better to get them so the fit is better as fire cement ends up brittle and is likely to fall out of the gap. It is tricky but sometimes larger gaps can be packed out with fire rope but at 2.5mm you would have to strip some down to make "fire string" to wrap around that can then be covered with fire cement.

It was left like that by the 'installer'. I'm going to take it all apart and do it properly myself.

Would Vitcas flexible sealant or similar, be a better bet, regarding crumbling?

I would recommend talking to you installer about your specific concerns. I can only give general advice. @@rattlyskoda13

​@idostuffcouk Been there, done that, got HETAS involved...all a complete waste of time. Fitter got suspended and lucky not to lose his registration as the install got condemned by the inspector.Just want to do it properly myself now.

Wow, that sounds like it took a whole working day

@@calparton6372 hours actually

That's mental, Surely he must have been installing one himself?

@@calparton637 I don’t know, it was just reported to me that he’d watched it for 2 hours.

@@jacktrubshaw4576 Hopefully he'll enjoy the prequel, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iMmGq66i0MmnfZc.htmlsi=j9TdRZJSQcTM2JnT, just as much. 😁

cheers.

Yes some stoves fit the collar from the inside, all the ones I have done can be screw on with nuts and bolts from the inside of the stove. It can be awkward with a long reach socket but is doable. Obviously you have to take out the baffle as you would for sweeping.

Great... I'll have to try vinegar to see if it makes a difference. Any idea how much you put in the mix?

I think the camera angle makes it look like my hands are closer to the blade than the reality