Found some on Amazon. Apparently it is used as a replaceable cutting board in laser cutters.

Yes they are. I only have a few of them for pistols that are popular enough I have made several holsters with each of them. Most of the one off holsters I make I trace around the customer's gun to make the pattern. When I have the holster finished I meet them again and shape the holster to their firearm wrapped in plastic wrap to protect the finish from the wet leather.

@@bransonsgeneralstore eventually this is the best way to do it! Keep up the good work 👍

Thanks!

Great! You're very welcome.

Sorry about that! I've made some upgrades since I made this video.

I bought the steel rule from a shop on Etsy

Thank you Nice work on the press

For carving I just wet the leather with a sponge. I actually want the leather to rest until it looks like it is almost dry, but still feels cool and moist when I touch it. If it still looks soaked your tool impressions won't be as sharp, and your finished carving will look blurry and lack depth. Fully cased leather is something I do if I am shaping it, but it needs to dry for hours before it is right to carve and stamp.

I don't take orders for custom work online. I have a full-time job and enough business locally to keep me busy. Sorry.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

@@bransonsgeneralstore My. Brother plays guitar/bass and something like this will be the perfect gift. Again, excellent video. Keep them coming please.

Hello. Just wanted to double check. The leather used in the video is 6oz?

@@milom.2057 6-7oz should be a good thickness for a guitar strap.

Thanks for the quick reply. I’ve a double shoulder that is 5-6oz. In your opinion, this ok or too thin?

I'm glad it helps!

The tool with the wooden handle is called a lacing fid.

Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

It would probably be a little larger. Napoleon's troops had .69 cal muskets. Similar to some of the smoothbores still in use at the beginning of the civil war. Those early war cartridge boxes were larger.

There are several ways. I prefer to use a piece shaped like a key fob. Fold it around a round or rectangular ring. Rivet the center of it to the bag and stitch around the edge. You could use a concho or decorative rivet instead of a plain one.

It's called a stitching groover. It cuts a shallow channel in the leather so the stitches are set down into the surface. That helps the stitches last longer because the thread is not as exposed to wear.

I only used plastic and Velcro because that was specifically asked for by the guy I was making this for. I tell people that Velcro will become weak and I don't like using it.

Thanks for watching! Good luck!

Yes, you can put the leather toggle on one piece and a loop for it to hook through on the other. I have used them on bags, book covers, and even an instrument case I made.

I found a push clamp on Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABWUS9O?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Welding the longer handle on made it a lot easier to use.

@@bransonsgeneralstore thanks for your help

When mixed with the wax it adds flexibility to it. It is also hydrophobic but is sticky without the wax. The oil can be olive oil like I used or something else like mineral oil or neatsfoot oil. I started using it when I was researching jack mugs and bottles. That was years ago so I don't remember the source, but I found a recipe that called for wax, colophony, and lamp black. I don't use the lamp black because it obviously makes everything black and is possibly carcinogenic. Colophony is another old name for pine rosin, resin, brewer's pitch, pine pitch, rock rosin, etc. This waterproofing recipe could also be called dubbing (dubbin in UK). Been in use for hundreds of years with a ton of different recipes.

@@bransonsgeneralstore That's really interesting. Thanks for your reply. I'm leaning away from vegetable oils as they oxidize and deteriorate (although I'm intrigued by castor oil). Food grade mineral oil seems more appropriate. Many people try to avoid anything which they wouldn't eat or put on their skin and from a safety point of view this is valid, however there are many factors to consider. I'm just starting to investigate leather conditioners and so far it's fascinating. Thank you for the reply and greetings from bonnie Scotland.

I don't take orders for custom work online. I have a full-time job and enough business locally to keep me busy.

Most often I am cutting lace from sides of cowhide. The leather I was using on those handles was 3-4oz.

5/8 polyester webbing. It's sometimes called mule tape or pull tape.

I do wear gloves sometimes if I am expecting to make a real mess. They are less for protecting me and more so I don't leave fingerprint stains on everything around me. Most dyes and stains now are pretty safe. I have seen the occasional 40 or 50 year old glass bottle of dye with skulls on the label though.

No I don't. I bought it more than ten years ago. I think I got it from a Michaels craft store.

I mostly do blacksmithing and knifemaking in the winter when it's cool enough to be in the shop with the forge running. Here's a playlist of my knifemaking videos: forging blades and knife making: kzfaq.info/sun/PLHoEz6E0zvsNlK0rIDY56UBLRpsZoXdLv And here's one of my other projects: Blacksmithing: kzfaq.info/sun/PLHoEz6E0zvsN_q7g-ED9lKRfuobxnGm0t Enjoy, and thanks for watching!