Removing the ABS sensors was not as bad as I expected after watching this, and my car is quite rusty. The bolt came out fairly easily then using mole grips I just gripped each side of where the wire goes in (to prevent breaking the bolt hole tab) and started twisting gently and pulling. It was tight but came out ok after about 5 minutes

Wow. I'm amazed how good your video is! I'm definitely subscribing!

Great video but a lot of this cant be done the way its demonstrated here with the subframe on the car making the title inappropriate. I'm probably just bitter from hammering on rust seized parts at ridiculous angles for hours trying to do this :/

I’m from Polnad. Great guide. Thank you 😊

Will this work you’ve demonstrated be applied to a 2003 crv? Or are the specs different for a 2.4?

Excellent video, it's easy to see what you're doing and you move at a nice pace. I'm removing the oil pump and baffle on my car in an attempt to find all of the bits of plastic that have broken off the chain guides. Any suggestions of where else to look, or is it likely that they've been ground to plastic sand and caught by the oil filter?

I'm going to do this for the first time on my 2004 Honda CR-V, I'm on the other side of the ocean so mine actually is the K24 2.4L Petrol Engine, but seems location of drain plug and Oil Filter are the same as the K20 2.0 L engine. That oil filter looks difficult to remove, hopefully it will come out easily. Thank you for your video, it was really enlightening.

Hi!, would there be enough leverage to insert spring if you were able to remove bolts connected to brake system and roll bar? My nuts that connect the control arm towards the centre of the car look scary. But it looks like the control arm pivots once tire side stuff is disconnected. BTW thanks for the bit where you highlighted the parts in red. Makes me think I know what I am talking about now!!!

Total disaster absolutely shite

Erstmal ein danke für deine Videos ! Sag mal bitte an der Ansaugbrücke sind drei Anschlüsse. Zwei der Anschlüsse sind ja belegt. Was ist denn mit dem dritten Anschluss oberhalb? Ist der bei dir offen oder zu?

Thanks mate

Can we use it slide the car ,like can this kind of brakes look all wheels or the rear ones only ?

Some of these engines with low miles e.g. 40K and verified oil changes using the correct oil have seen belt failure. Also the debris from the belt restricting oil flow leading to increased wear or even failure.

Brilliant Video - Thanks for putting this together. Can I ask what kind of vice grip protectors your using there, as they seem different to the standard insert that just protect the jaws ?

Thank you! I really appreciate the idea to have the photos at the end! Thank you!

By far the BEST self help video I've ever seen on KZfaq. THANKS and congratulations

Thanks so much for this, just a swine of a job and a questionable design choice lol, helped me out no end even though I just ended up getting a set of mole clamps on the threads to wind them out. Ain't got no time for that 😂

Very good, he is very meticulous.

V.comprehensive video. But how do you clean the Sealey brake pressure bleeder out afterwards? I imagine a thin film of brake fluid will be left on the inside walls, which will absorb moisture & contaminate new brake fluid at the next change.

Thank you very much, depressurizing is a life saver 👍💪

This Car is launched in Pakistan recently. How soon these go bad? did company find any solution to this. Thanks for the video

Saurais tu me dire s'il te plaît à quelle pression je dois régler la wastegate? sur un moteur EP6CDT 1.6 THP 156 🐎 année 2012

Hi, im no mechanic and just wondered if you could give me some advice ? I have a 2014 mini cooper sd and believe that the DPF might have been removed prior to my purchase. Would I be able to physically inspect that without dismantling ? Could i maybe check from in the engine bay or from underneath the car ?

Pot 1 injector bolts are stuck in, the heads chewed with the torx socket. Just got the one leaking injector and I'm selling it on as I've had it almost 9 years. An 09 Cooper D

Never do FORCE REGEN . First need add some chemicals.

Keep up the good work,your a great narrator, something that lost of people who make videos for KZfaq clearly lack.

bonjour vos soudure ont ils résolu le probléme

When i do it at work i warm up the engine and i unsrew the nuts (1 or 2 turns) when the engine is running and i try to move the injector. When the 4 are moving i stop the engine and immediately remove the ones with leakage, it's easiest when the sort of pitch is hot and liquid 👍 (when it's cold it's more like coal) I hope it can help you and sorry if my English is bad, it's not my native language

You are the best man, and nice music

Thanks you help me alot🎉

I had problem with ford c max mk1 with baterry draining. In few hours car drain battery completly. I recharge it, and drive for couple of mounts. New battery by the way. Did you have or heard of problem like that? Ghia is package of equipment with electric parking brake and parking sensors.

does it support obd1? 

great video. this is the best in depth showing of stripping the mini to get to the DPF etc. keep up the good work.

Did you get the dry leaf out of under the filter ?

Very Powerful Series, watched the whole 51 Clips. Even thou my Engine is Citroen DS5 THP200 Similar to refer 99%. Keep the Good Work😍

thank man, my 1st time working on the k20 and your videos made my life so much easier. I made no mistakes following every video to the T. Again very much appreciate the efforts you put into each video, if you were close to me we could have had a beer to celebrate haha

Nice

Wow! It’s one of those places that leaves you feel like you’ve discovered something, then someone posts a video of it on KZfaq 😂 However when I first visited almost 25yrs ago, it was in far worse shape than when you filmed this. At least some of the buildings have now been re roofed which should help to preserve them, just a shame about the main farmhouse, but understandable from a sheep farmers perspective. Have you found the remains of the old Schoolhouse in the Dolarwen that’s almost opposite the res from this? There’s not much to see but the foundations and pathways that led along the contours of the valley towards it. Still interesting though.😊

This has got to be a joke... Using grease on the contact surface between the flywheel and the friction disc? No way...

Stylé la musique et la présentation des photos de composants en fin de vidéos !

Witam. Jakim jaka sila dokrecic stopki wałków do podstawy? I jaki moment dokręcenia podstawy do głowicy???

Super movie. You can clearly see engine components that are normally inaccessible. Great work.

Hi these videos have been fantastic but we are having a recurring problem with ours basically no matter how we time it up it always runs rich then occasionally throws up the correlation fault, on the reader it says the inlet dephaser is not programmed and the dephaser solenoid is showing an invalid value, could it be that the dephaser pulley needs unlocking afterwards and if so how could this be done. many thanks

Hello, first of all, it is a very informative video. i share my own video below. i have a 2011 peugeot 508 1.6 thp engine. in the mornings in hot weather, when the engine is cold, there is a blowing sound like in the video. the sound lasts maximum 30 seconds and passes. what is the reason for this? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o85_qrud0Ju-hGw.html&ab_channel=TayfnTuncr

Summary for KZfaq video: Title: How to Dismantle the Cooling System of a Peugeot THP Engine (EP6) Channel: Coats and Gaiters Description: This detailed video tutorial demonstrates how to disassemble the cooling system of a Peugeot THP engine (EP6). The procedure is applicable to all engines with codes starting with EP6, such as EP6CDT and EP6CT. Key Points: * The video provides a step-by-step guide on dismantling the cooling system components. * Clear explanations and visuals make the process easy to follow. * The tutorial is relevant for all EP6 engine variants. Overall, this video is an excellent resource for anyone who needs to dismantle the cooling system of their Peugeot THP engine. Call to Action: * Subscribe to the Coats and Gaiters channel for more informative car repair videos. * Share this video with your friends who own Peugeot THP vehicles. Additional Notes: * The video is well-produced with high-quality audio and video. * The presenter is knowledgeable and clearly explains the procedures. * The video is a valuable resource for DIY car enthusiasts. I hope this summary is helpful! Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Hi, I want to change the water pump friction wheel tensioner on my wife's 207 1.6 vti with 120 hp engine code 5fw or ep6, it looks the same like this engine, but the online car parts store got me confused, offering 2 kind from this tensioner, 1 like in the video a mechanical and an other with some 2 pin connector for some sensor I guess. How can I find out which is the right one without taking the car apart?

thanks

I thought I'd comment here because it's hard to find infos on pre-LSI Oil filter housing, and I happened to struggle with it (again). The Pre-LSI Oil filter housing comes with a detachable spring and cage. When they are present, the oil filter is REALLY HARD to separate from the housing. I had to use an oil filter wrench to have enough leverage to get it off both times. If the spring and cage has been lost to the age, what several persons on the community recommend is to get a MANN filter: those work well without the spring and cage. If you still have a spring and cage, do NOT buy the MANN filter, as the spring and cage won't fit. I'm using a Purflux one, but you may need to choose another brand available locally (I don't think it's worldwide). As a hint, it should have plastic on both sides (the MANN one does not), though I'm not sure it's a surefire way to choose. Another hard to find info: in the Pre-LSI oil filter housing, there is a black plastic tube (see at 7:23 the tube protuding from the center of the housing? That's black on the Pre-LSI one) that is detachable and CAN unscrew and fall when you remove the oil filter. Don't make the mistake of throwing it away. From personal experience, you can run without it if you have the factory spring and cage. But if you try to run without it while also missing the factory spring and cage, even with a known-good MANN filter, you will have the low oil pressure at idle. Revving up a bit makes it go away, then it comes back after a few seconds at idle.

A timing belt running in oil will never last. This goes for all engines. The first thing that will happen is it will block up the oil strainer causing catastrophic engine damage, that is if it doesn't break before then.

😮Thanks for making a clear tutorial, very helpful indeed. G,day from Down Under