Looks like with the short waist level bridge, after advancing/raising the Garda, you are actually PULLING the Compact Longhorn to about chest level as you stand, instead of pushing the hitch to arms length above your head, perhaps giving the climber a steadier more balanced feeling of equilibrium, interesting improvement, looks like a natural smooth action, I will give this a test with my hitch rig. Thanks John, keep em coming! The UNIVERSAL system is great but I am liking two distinct ropes, one for exploring new areas- dedicated HITCH SRT ROPE, 4 hitches , (2 foot loops, 2 ascenders) - and a dedicated DSRT ROPE , ( 3 ascenders plus Garda ), for returning to favored known trees.

I have a question regarding using a Blake's hitch for srt climbing on oplux. Reason I want to use oplux is I have a bunch. I like it for my purposes. My question, is it practical to use the Blake's hitch as a mid line anchor, use a hand ascender above with a foot loop for ascending. And rappell down with a figure eight and Blake's as a back up. Or is there a better srt method for sterling 8mm oplux?

You are a wealth of information. Thank you!

I’ve been repelling on a totem figure 8, it keeps the friction hitches cool. I am thinking more that friction hitches are better used for ascending. What are your thoughts?

Outstanding. By the way, as someone who is looking at alternative ways to put meat on the table, I've been learning about the ancient practice of "pollarding", which was used heavily by the Romans and many prior to procure "tree hay", I'm very happy to inform you that you have perhaps unknowingly assisted many to come after us who may be interested also in trimming trees for animal feed (perhaps even deer?) This is VERY significant, given what I know about the susceptibility of our power grid to solar storms now that our magnetic shield is significantly weaker..."Bravo" is an understatement. Respect!!!

Thank you again, John! Look foward to more! Enjoying the climb!

I seen in your Garda Hitch Footloop Kit, you tied a Longhorn on the Loop👍🏼

I see you added the Transformation Loop on the End of the Garda… How did you Attach that and do you leave it on there it all times?

Kit

Great video, John! Who's behind the camera? Someday I hope I can find someone to film me. It would be really helpful. Filming myself all the time is a PITA.

Hey John - really like the idea of this system. I was planning on using 9mm Canyon Elite (which your website says is probably closer to 9.5mm). Regarding the longhorn agile hitch, would you recommend 7mm Sterling accessory cord over Sterling 6mm TRC for that rope? Any pros or cons I should consider for each?

I started saddle hunting last year using the one stick method. I also used the jrb cinch with a trekking pole to advance my anchor. After seeing this video i believe I’m going to start practicing this method. It looks much safer and easier than my current method. Thank you John for all the videos and information that you release. You’ve helped me tremendously since i discovered your channel to be more safe and more efficient.

This is awesome. I wasn’t expecting to add friction hitch tying and rope climbing to my retirement list of activities but thats exactly what happened. Lots of practice leading up to this year’s archery season. This method will definitely be in my toolbox for the applicable tree. FYI doe tags went on sale in Pa. June 27th! Thanks for your expertise John, your efforts are really appreciated.

I’m getting refreshed on things this morning. That highwayman’s knot has worked, catching anything from white perch, 50 pound opelousa catfish, to gators 🐊 since I was a young pup. I’m glad you’re showing everyone just how good and versatile of a hitch it is. Highwayman’s hitch and longhorn agile are my 2 favorites 👍🏼

Nice engineering!

John, I'm impressed. While I'm already fully knowledgeable regarding every aspect of safety you discussed, I enjoyed the video and felt it was a very well organized and thoughtful discussion about risk and proper protocols. Off the top of my head, I honestly can't think of anything to add. One of the most important items you discussed is having a minimum of a 10:1 strength/load ratio (ideally higher). I saw a terrifying comment on one of August Hunicke's latest videos where a guy said he was climbing on a Home Depot rope "rated for 300lbs" and ask August if he had any suggestions for a rope and whether he could put a kit together for him. Somehow nobody else noticed or cared, but I told that guy to stop climbing IMMEDIATELY until he gets an arborist rope rated for at least 23kN. Some people simply don't understand what they're doing and the amount of risk they are taking by not spending the money on proper, rated equipment. Almost nothing I climb on is weaker than 23kN. That's sort of my personal rule. One suggestion, but not a rule, that I might add to your list is to avoid screw gate carabiners and to spend a little extra on auto locking carabiners; ideally triple action, but double action is still a stark improvement from a screw gate because it makes it impossible to forget to lock the gate and reduces the likelihood of the gate opening inadvertently. Even a quadruple action DMM carabiner can be opened accidently if loaded improperly and if the tree gods decide it's your time for a quick drop with a sudden stop. But the odds are exponentially less than with a screw gate! If you do use screw gate, make sure to keep the screw action facing down. The old saying is "screw down so you don't screw up!" This will reduce the odds of the gate rolling open as you climb. I laughed a little when you mentioned that people ask you to tie their friction hitches for you. Even most professional arborists, from my experience, fail to disassemble and inspect and then reorient their hitch cords on a sufficiently frequent basis. They'll leave them on their ropes or lanyards, especially, for months and months. As low as the odds of aramid fibers getting damaged by the friction from typical applications may be, it's just good practice and it will help your hitches run better by not having them gliding along the rope in the same spots. It will also make you more skilled at tying hitches. If someone happens to be using full polyester cord for hitch cord (let's say they only use them for ascents), then inspection should be even more frequent and stringent. Friction hitches need to be adjusted sometimes while tied and during climbs also, and if someone never takes the time to learn how to properly tie, dress and set a hitch, then they can never truly ever be able to use one properly or safely. Sorry for always writing dissertation and essay length comments! haha Just trying to have a conversation while I can since I know you're a very busy guy with work, family, your business ventures, and your channel/website!

Brilliant!

Great video. I've been wanting to integrate using the traditional way of climbing palm trees with a foot loop and tether. I haven't experimented with it yet, but it may be doable. My goal is to get in the tree without getting sweaty.

Really like hitch climbing with the JRB MAVERICK HITCH. Never worry with a throw ball anymore, but love carrying a 20ft hitch pole, which comes in very handy as a walking stick at 5 ft , yet extendable out to 20ft and can accept a pruning saw blade or the rope hook for climbing and hunting purposes. I use a dedicated 50 ft HITCH ROPE with 4 pre-tied JRB 5-2-3 hitches, 2 on each end of 11mm Sampson Predator rope tied with 9mm Sampson hitch cord. Of those 2, one is a JRB COMPACT 5-2-3 with a rappel ring ; below that, a JRB 5-2-3 soft bridge for a web foot loop , no ring , with the 1in tubular web looped through the hitch loops. If I like a tree after hitch climbing , I will leave a preset paracord and come back to climb with JRB DSRT using a dedicated 75 ft 8mm Teufelberger Resc Tech rope with 3 JRB 5-2-3 hitches pre- tied with 6 mm Sterling hitch cord , 2 of which are in bridge mode with 1 on one end of the rope (in case i need to hitch over a limb ) and the Garda footloop. Of course with either rope I rappel using a Super Munter. So I scout and climb new trees with the HITCH ROPE, but use my DSRT ROPE on favored trees where I have usually done some work such as pruning limbs and leaving a preset paracord. DSRT IS VERY STEALTHY. If i don’t particularly like a tree , then i just abandon it and keep exploring until I hit a hot spot. Thank you John, my hunting success, and climbing fun has greatly improved with the JRB TOOLBOX. OH, and my climbing is solid SAFE. Having followed JRB tutorials closely my climbing skills and knowledge is so much better, and quite enjoyable, can’t wait to get back on rope SOON. John , I look forward to future tweeks as your ongoing advancements of climbing technique and technology are fascinating, practical, and useful. I will mention that often , when entering new areas on a Hitch Scout, I’ll see deer . With practice, installing rope with a pole is very efficient and quiet.

Oh, also...wear your helmet! =-P

What's the difference between the telescoping rod and a "climbing stick?" Great demo. So ya'll will stand on that tiny platform with a hunting weapon, harnessed in, for hours like that? Sheesh. Looks like that would get uncomfortable pretty quickly. When I do bird photography near water features, I'll setup sort of a V-Rig between two trees and just hang in the middle so the foliage won't block my shots, but I have a system so that I can lay back and relax in my chest harness. So I'm no stranger to sitting in my harness in one place for long amounts of time. I'll often use a foot loop as well to take my weight off the harness for a bit, so I can see how the stand would be really nice. Just like hunting, wildlife photography takes patience, quiet, and dedication. Anyways, I'm rambling. Thanks for the video!

Yeah, been waiting for this for 40 years! Just went out and climbed with one end on a JRB Cinch, and the other, Maverick. Standing parallel of the trunk, is one of the cool things of this system!

Great informative video, John. I believe a lot of us are practicing this method now. Two ways to get up a tree. Also, Thank you for the safety aspect of your information. Too many of us hunters climb with NO back up plan.

I have learned a lot from your video's. That is just how I have my repel rope. I find it better for me at 68 with old knees to use the garda long. Thank You for all you do

Wish I had this system years ago. Started with ropes and 2TC and found it awkward and difficult. Hunted with the JRB Maverick system last year and I’m not looking back , I found the JRB system easier and safer . John your innovations have inspired me and climbing has become enjoyable and fun. Thanks and keep up the good work !

Been waiting for this, and practicing this, too! Thank you John!

Great video, John! Me, personally? I'd rather use a throw line and a throw weight to set a canopy tie around the highest point of the spar by pulling the loop up with the throwline. Then you don't need to make any crossovers. Depending upon the tree, this may not be practical. It just seems like a lot of work to climb this way, but I respect your ingenuity 100%. I'd rather spend an hour with my throwline setting a premiere TIP than using a telescoping pole to gradually work my way up a spar. But I know saddle hunting is a different ballgame, so, as a traditional arborist style climber, maybe I don't know what I'm talking about. Still love the redundancy that the Garda hitch best friend provides. That's definitely clever. Best wishes, John.

I've been caught in something similar to situation 4 while rappelling. I made a loop on my tether with an overhand knot and used it as a foot loop while I worked the carabiners loose

LHA Gets two thumbs up👍👍Thanks John.

Well, after more experience, I am now going with 2 seperate ropes - a 50 ft rope with a 4 hitch system ( two compact 5-2-3’s with rings and two 5-2-3 soft bridge hitches with single web foot loops) for SRT Hitch climbing, and a 75 ft rope 3 hitch system ( two 5-2-3’s bridge mode, and the Garda) for DSRT after I have explored an area and left a preset. I do a lot of exploring in season with the hitch climb and keep moving until I find an area I really like and only carry one rope at a time, mostly hitch climbing.

That is a really cool way to do the foot loop, how did I miss this, even though it’s a bit on the bulky side for carrying . but still it’s very useful, I’ve been doing a web single foot loop through the 5-2-3 soft bridge with a garden hose piece and a cable tie at the hitch loops to hold the loop in place , the web tied with a water knot, ..trying to keep my hitch climb srt rope minimalistic as much as possible

Nice one JRB, I’m always doing a transfer with my hitch climbing.😊

I really appreciate your thorough development and demonstration of your processes.

Awesome, John! The evolution of the JRB Hitch climb is great! Just as the LAH has become. I believe more folks will grab on to this style climbing, being the versatility with all types of trees! I feel even more secure, a connection with the tree! Thank you!

Good information...

Good stuff 👍🏼

Anoher great demo. "Look at me now, mom" put a smile on my face. Thanks again John!

Always great content! Can’t wait to try it on my hitch climbs.

Awesome JRB… I was wondering if you think that would work for a chest harness and auto tend for arborist work?

Another great modification to your invention. Thank you for making this available. Your videos make tree climbing very accessible to the average guy or gal.

Thank you!

Straightforward and sensible evolution of the system. I like that it helps prevent carabiner contact. The only downsides are consuming more cordage, and harder to untie (e.g. for inspection). I wonder if the hunter's bend could capture a strand of the overall loop to effectively become a "sliding hunter's bend"? That would theoretically be the best of both worlds. But it would require testing to ensure that the hunter's bend is still stable and strong in that configuration.

great video!!! so when will you have your video of the new zenith hitch? I think you mentioned that before.

ia the longhorn hitch on the 8mm rope a 6 mm?

Thank you John. I use your LonghornAgile combination to climb and trim palm trees. The difference I use is that I tie your friction hitch around both stands of the rope I am climbing. Additionally, I use a second longhorn friction hitch and a Spanish bowline as foot loops. Your friction hitches have proven to be very reliable and trustworthy.

What would be a good easy hitch to use in a one stick application where I am removing and retying each climb. Looking for something easy to move up and down but also easy to remember and apply. Thanks. Great videos.

Just starting to learn about rope climbing to do some tree trimming. WOW!! There is a lot to learn, really know and develop into what you are about to do....before you climb. Fasinating and demanding all at once for me. Thanks for this detailed video on the Blakes Hitch.

Not surprised history is done the same way.

All great thanks

Hi John it's amazing to see how easy you climb with this system!/) I got a question; did you ever posted something about the saddles or harness? Its interesting for me to know if they are useful for only hunting or also any tree climbing too Thank you John 👍