I have this Same Problem with my Volvo C30 1.6 D. My engine always jerks a lot when I turn it off. I think it's because the flap doesn't close completely and that's why it draws air when it's turned off

Carbon buildup is rather normal, depends on the milage you put between cleaning. In regards EGR getting stuck- the mechanism for operating the valve is made out of plastic, hence some of the ''teeth'' within the valve guide gets broken/brittle due to excessive heat (your egr is circulating exaust gases after all) and with time the broken teeth causes the valve to get stuck. Make sure your coolant level is back to normal after changing the EGR, as EGR cooler runs on your engine coolant loop. Nice vid tho.

Hi, the aftermarket is full of EGR valve manufacturers that have a different characteristic than the original EGR from the factory. Non-original parts cause pulsation of engine operation, increased fuel consumption and frequent DPF regeneration. In conclusion, any time the EGR valve is tampered with, it is necessary to perform an adaptation via diagnostics. If the adaptation is not performed the EGR may not function properly.

I THANK you

With vida you have the option to "refill the pump hose" it is recommended if the aditiv reservoir was empty.

Hi did the second tool work I tried first one and my clutch would not engage

I deleted mine + remapped. Love the videos tho. I recently got a 2009 V50 and I am restoring it slowly.

whats the size of the oil filter socket please ?

What specific code you get? I have p1335 no matter what egr i put. After deleting it shows up again only after full stop engine and keys out. Can do start stop but leaving key in 1st position , no error then. This can i have is mental. Im so eager to find out what it causes

Brother, i have the v50 2009 2.0d. Because of this engine i can do most of the things by myself.. and with the help of your videos obviously. A real headache this engine. But actually it never let me down on the road actually.

I had s40 with the same engine. It was a nightmare, when i remeber I have a headache. There was always something wrong with that car. You have good nerves, also your videos are very interesting and well produced.

Błędny montaż wachacza bo powinien tuleje dokręcać na opuszczonym kole żeby waczacz ustawił się prawidłowo bo przy takim montażu gumowe tuleje pozrywają się po kilkdziesieciu kilometrach😂😂😂

Much easier to by only this small part, also I recommend you replace all three n75 elements, check all pipes, and later check your vacuum system, disconnect after vacuum motor and check the system is vacuum exist and no leaks. If you need vacuum diagram, I can share. Also check pipes when they are connected with n75 near to generator and conditioner pump.

Hello, how many kilometers has your car been like this?

Bellissima!

Hello sir! I have a volvo v50 from 2010 1,6D drive. And there is a fault code 0005 something related to the additive! The dpf is replaced whit a new one btw.

one of the worst cars ever made

Hey do you have same problem inside car it blows hot on other side and other side cold if you has this problem how you fix it

Amazing Video, up until the very day I was to perform a fuel pump exchange on my Z50, I never knew were to find the EMC. Now I can check it and clean everything before diving into my project thereby possibilly finding the root of my problem there. Thankyou.

Thanks for the video...

OMG ❤

Salut, am o rugăminte, cum pot să te contactez să îți cer o părere?

i did change additive and i deleted a fault code P2585 but its still show up again any advices?

I have the same problem. I wonder if you could seal without removing?

Good video, i enjoyed it. Where did you get your cloned Delphi gear?

Interesting!Thanks!🙂

Jaki moment dokrecania śrub pokrywy aluminiowej wałków rozrządu? I jaki moment dokrecania kolektora dolotowego ?

Frumoasă prezentare!Sănătate

Felicitări pentru munca depusă în realizarea conținutului de pe acest canal. La cât mai multe vizualizări!👍🏼

Those damned plastic clips are the bane of my life. I like to replace them as far as possible with proper metal fasteners when re-assembling.

👍

Nakrętka od półosi jest jednorazowa. A tutaj kolega chyba tą samą przykręcił

W tym przypadku gdzie oba przeguby są padnięte to się wymienia całą półoś bez takiego drutowania. Cała półoś jest tańsza niż dwa przeguby.

I had a knocking noise in my V50 5 cylinder due to worn Lower Control Arms (LCA) as the bushes on the LCA were worn causing the knocking noise which is a common wear item with the 5 cylinder engine as they are heavier and more powerful than the other smaller lighter engines offered in the P1 platform. Drop links are always a first item to check & replace on any car with a knocking noise as they are cheap and easy to do.

Hi, guys, Is someone can answer on the following question, After replacing egr (by new one), do I need to do some adaptation?

hi! thanks for the video! where can i find the other parts?

The link for torque specs does Not work :(

Hi, love your videos! Are there any torque specs for the camshaft cover and is sealant required when reassembling?

I have had this also. Faulty TPS on one occasion and split turbo hose on another

Shoking

Great video. I have to question. First one is this engine same for Mondeo mk4 2.0 tdci? I see that this engine is in the peugeout and citroen 2.0 hdi just maybe different layout of components. Second and most important. I have the same problem. Camshaft broken on the same palce as yours. Do the broken parts goes in the sump or stay stucked in oil canal? I thinking that broken parts are to big to pass to sump...

Very good content! Keep it up! 👍 I have the Volvo V50 too and I have similar knocking noise on the right front corner. I have changed stabilizer link, but not helped. So the strut top mount could be an issue?

Since your car has DPF, you should only put in enough new oil to reach halfway between the max and min marks on the dipstick. The oil level rises a little bit with each DPF regeneration, especially on these high mileage PSA engines.

Great video. Short and straight to the point. Thank you!

Oh I had this similar issue on my 2009 Volvo S40 2.0d D4204T, I had changed clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder. Everything seemed fine but every now and then the clutch pedal would stick to the floor. I thought I hadn't bleed the system properly, so I bleed and it happened again, so I changed the master cylinder and still same issue. But one day I noticed a small drip of brake fluid under the car. And the probably was I had damaged the slave cylinder using a power bleeder. Any way the whole gearbox had to come apart again to change it. But that fixed the problem. Best of luck!

me paso lo mismo revise la tierra del conector marca 0.08 VDC, le instale un cable extra a la tierra del conector

My first car was a red jimny. Fun bouncy and amazing in the snow. I now have a volvo v50 😊 2 great cars.

Hi, why you did this job, there was any problems with engine?

How many kilometers you have on your car ?

Do you have to empty transmission oil before taking axle out?