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@King.-Arthur 19 күн бұрын
I thought this was working when pressure was finally released. Then to my horror I noticed I was PULLING APART THE BEARING. Thought that wasn’t possible. Had to take the knuckle out and make a puck to put against the back of the bearing. It took three full strength overhead strikes with an 8 pound sledge to knock it out.
@goproguy7844 18 күн бұрын
Now that's stuck! I've seen it happen a time or two. Usually end up (carefully!) cutting out the rest of the hub to get the final pieces out. Sounds like it had no plans of ever leaving the knuckle!
@tombellows 26 күн бұрын
it worked FANTASTICLY. I pretty darn sure i could have beat on the assembly for a month and still it wouldn't come off. In fact I'd probably have bent the shield plate in to a ball, and have only removed the assembly chip by chip. 7/16" GRADE 8 bolt x around 2" long and Grade 8 nut fit in nicely (with the larger bolt as a spacer). It took quite a while to little by little break things loose as i moved the bolt around to wherever i could find an available flat spot (only 2 spots, barely found a 3rd). Had to move around to the different spots about 4 times each and spray in rust/corrosion penetrant constantly, and then could hit with heavy hammer to break things more loose, then a couple bangs on the spindle ..... FINALLY it came off. Thank you for the tip!!
@goproguy7844 24 күн бұрын
So glad it worked! Would have loved to see your face when it started moving. I know I've had moments of epiphany when things finally worked the way they're supposed to also!
@AhmadHamzabalad 27 күн бұрын
Great video. You saved my life
@goproguy7844 24 күн бұрын
Yes! Another victory! Glad it worked! Thanks for the comment!
@waltp3373 27 күн бұрын
Very nice. I hope mine comes off as easy as yours in rusty NY. Good tips.
@goproguy7844 24 күн бұрын
Rusty NY is probably just as bad as rusty OH! I know your pain brother. It will work! Read the comments of all the successful removals. When all else fails, you'll wish you had tried this hours before!
@waltp3373 18 күн бұрын
@@goproguy7844 It didn't work. When I tightened the bolt, it split the bearing. The lug part fell off. The back piece was stuck on. I had an awful time. I spent hours. I finally drove wood chisels in the cracks. When they were wide enough, I hammered in a cold chisel and pry bar. I worked my way around until it finally popped out. What a nightmare that turned out to be.
@erikk8015 Ай бұрын
Worked like a charm on Toyota Prius rear. Thanks!!!
@goproguy7844 Ай бұрын
Great to hear!
@bubbylove75 Ай бұрын
Glad I found this video. What length bolt are you using? I may need to go to this method tomorrow.
@goproguy7844 Ай бұрын
Good question! 2" may work, 3" will probably work for every application. There's no harm in having a little longer bolt. Take a lug nut to the hardware store - make sure your HARDENED bolt (& nut) is smaller diameter than your wheel studs. So the bolt you buy needs to fit through the lug nut without hitting threads. That doesn't mean an 1/8" bolt will work. Make sure it's as wide as possible - but still needs to fit through the stud hole in your bearing / hub assembly. Good luck!
@wilbertallen5190 2 ай бұрын
That's so informative I love your instructions it's straight forward in step by step how to make it a bit simpler thanks.
@goproguy7844 Ай бұрын
Glad I could help!!
@waynew5521 2 ай бұрын
Yeah, you smack it where and how would’ve been good to show that😢😢
@LyndaLindsay-dm6hy 2 ай бұрын
Awesome thank u!
@goproguy7844 2 ай бұрын
You bet! Glad it worked!
@baloghnandor1173 2 ай бұрын
Thanks, I used this method on an Opel Astra J front bearing, and it works. I forgot to buy hardened bolts, so I broke three 10 mm normal bolts, but I took only 30 minutes to remove the old bearing.
@goproguy7844 2 ай бұрын
Glad it worked! Hardened bolts make a substantial difference.
@jerseypilot83 2 ай бұрын
I have a 2015 Ford transit I have the same problem but the rotor does not come off unless the hub assembly is off first. I do not know what to do any help will be great.
@peterr7283 2 ай бұрын
Did this and the wheel bearing pulled apart. Now all that's left is the rear part of the wheel bearing stuck in the backing plate. Any suggestions?
@goproguy7844 2 ай бұрын
Must have a really bad one! You'll need to carefully chisel it out or even use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to get it loose. Be very careful not to cut, score or damage the aluminum knuckle. Keep using lots of penetrant oil. This will take time, but it can be knocked out. The rear section will be tough to cut, but it's going to need to come out in pieces.
@conradkentucci1113 3 ай бұрын
I am very happy to report that this method works - and my 2006 GM vehicle (rear-wheel drive) has 120,000 Chicagoland miles. It also has an aluminum suspension knuckle that had a ferocious grip on the hub assembly/wheel bearing. I had PB Blasted it and beat it with a sledge and driven a couple flat head screwdrivers into the few spots where the hub wasn't melded to the dust shield - all to no avail. Then I tried this Bolt Trick. A crack opened on top; rotated outer hub ~180 degrees and cranked down the pusher bolt again and another crack opened; banged on the hub's backside with a small slege and that SOB popped out! To other newbies reading this, there's 3 key factors, per my experience: 1. Use a *hardened* (grade 8) bolt and nut, as GoProGuy said (3:30- 7:45 in the video). 2. Use a 6-point impact socket. 3. Use a breaker bar (mine was ~14") P.S. My hub already had an open hole, so I didn't have to remove any studs before starting. Muchas Gracias Amigo!
@goproguy7844 3 ай бұрын
De nada!! YESSSSS! Another win! Yeah - it really works! Glad this video added to your success!
@robertholmes4326 3 ай бұрын
This worked awesome on a old sierra! Really saved me a lot of time. My 4lb sledge hammer didn't have a chance. I used a socket as a spacer and a 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt.
@goproguy7844 3 ай бұрын
Another victory! Glad it worked!!!
@Gmanzable 3 ай бұрын
love how all these KZfaq videos are working on cars with clean bolts and bearing. mine were rusted and stripped very easily. need a northern cold weather salted roads version lol
@goproguy7844 3 ай бұрын
This one was NE Ohio. Lots of rust on this and the bolts were certainly not clean! Look at the old bearing / hub - a rust belt standard!
@ThunderbirdRocket 3 ай бұрын
Fantastic ! Tremendous camera shots , clear concise descriptions , perfect pace . Definitely a valuable resource you produced for us ! Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge !! 👊🏼🔥
@goproguy7844 3 ай бұрын
Glad the video helped. Best wishes.
@TheKacperPlays 4 ай бұрын
I cant believe how much of the car has to be taken apart before you get to the lightbulb. Why make it so stupid hard to replace a bulb.
@goproguy7844 3 ай бұрын
Yeah - no surprise Audi repairs are expensive! You can get to the bulb by opening the back access panel, then removing the HID/LED ignitor. But it's almost a completely blind job (can't see and do it at the same time) and really tight quarters. Fancy stuff isn't easy to work on anymore!
@barbarathomas5647 4 ай бұрын
Thank you for a very detailed video! What is the other rusty piece that looks like a part of a plate?
@goproguy7844 3 ай бұрын
The "plate" is the dust shield. Just keeps brake dust from interacting with brake parts. This will vary by manufacturer, or in some cases not even exist.
@thecarfixchannel3046 4 ай бұрын
How big was the hole you made in the soft aluminium steering knuckle not to mention the dust shield, if the bearing is stuck very bad the hub will pull out of the bearing and you will end up with the bearing still stuck in the steering knuckle also the this method pull on one side and might crack the steering knuckle.
@goproguy7844 3 ай бұрын
Even for the most stuck hubs, the bolt may make an 1/8" or so imprint dimple, but it won't be significant. The video recommends pulling from multiple sides to balance the extraction angle. And yes - the bearing could pull out of the hub with the hub stuck in the knuckle - but you'd have that problem no matter what method you planned to remove it. If that happens, the hub has to be tapped, cut or pressed out of the knuckle (or replace the entire knuckle).
@-MrRichBiker1967 5 ай бұрын
Thank you so much that has to be one of the best videos I've ever seen on KZfaq about a wheel bearing Awesome mechanic skills!! Ty. The most effective video!
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Glad it helped
@cheeseburger3547 5 ай бұрын
Accept the carpenters hammer. ...
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Yeah, I'm a carpenter too. No excuse, wrong tool, right job.
@lee20021242 5 ай бұрын
Hello. A8 d3 2007 model i have. And same problem comes. 11520 005 g397 errorcode. In my case, i had changed the sensor 3months ago. So this time i gonna fix the headlight broken line. So how do i know that which side is brokien. Passenger side or Driver side??
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
You would need to remove the headlamp assembly and look in through the back door to see if you could spot a broken wire. In my case, it was obvious. Driver side was stuck pointing far to the left. Passenger side kept moving just fine. In your case, you could manually adjust them both straight and disable the movement motors by cutting the wires. You'd have an error code message forever though. Sad way to go, but it would work.
@scottb3188 5 ай бұрын
Definitely worked. Bought two bolts but only used one. The down side is the 10 minutes it took to grind off a bolt on the old hub (which is why I only used one of the bolts, and spun the wheel around to the opposite side). On my wife's Ford Edge, the margins were tight, and the knuckle is covered by a sheet metal dust cover (I just targeted a position on the cover next to the small bolts holding that cover in place, i.e. it's a hard point, put the end of the grade 8 bolt right next to it). Difficult to fit the grade 8 bolt,washers, spacing bolt, and grade 8 nut (used 3/8") in place between the hub and knuckle. But no comparison to the effort of removing that hub without that bolt and nut, or a proper press. Oh, and I used an air impact wrench to crank the bolt in on the outside, and a boxed end wrench to hold the bearing nut in place behind the hub wheel. Made very short work of it. (I tried the other trick of using a towing receiver without the ball, but no luck. Mine was probably too short for proper leverage.)
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Glad it worked! Hardest part is running to the store to get a proper sized grade 8 bolt, nut & washers.
@FREEDOMSYNDICATEOFFICIAL 6 ай бұрын
This was an absolute awesome video! Thanks for sharing and making our lives easier with this trick! 🤘😎
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Glad to share the knowledge and save your neighbors from an ear full of obscenities. I had plenty of those flying around until I figured this out.
@hothmobile100 6 ай бұрын
Great video! Can I offer a suggestion? Next time you get a new car, use lanolin grease (Woolwax is the best) and spray the bottom of your car once or twice a year. It takes about 8 cans but really stops rust from forming.
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Unfortunately, I bought this one when it was 12 years old and full of salty rust underneath. Body is still fine though!
@newry123 7 ай бұрын
did you not put a new brake disc screw in,,,cheers
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Nope. Not necessary. Lug nuts hold it plenty tight.
@newry123 4 ай бұрын
Ok cheers
@cdeprima1209 8 ай бұрын
You could also finish off the rotor and brake caliper with Red Rustoleum primer to galvanize, cure the rust and make it look good; works on all surface rusts similar! :)
@cdeprima1209 8 ай бұрын
Always grease the splines!
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Yessir - I put anti-seize on them in the video.
@gregsmith1089 8 ай бұрын
Can’t do this unless both of your front wheels are off the ground though… unlike my current situation
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
You can, but you won't be able to turn the wheel. Hopefully you can get a bolt into multiple stud locations. Or if you're really lucky, one position is enough for the whole thing to pop off. Only seen that once or twice though.
@cmz85 8 ай бұрын
You must certainly live in the north
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Midwest. Salt belt.
@Tom-ic7hw 8 ай бұрын
what about the screw that you drilled out on the disk is it not needed
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Nope. Not needed. Lug nuts are plenty to hold it in place.
@ask43242flight 9 ай бұрын
Very nice presentation. Thank you!
@jjjjjjjjjjjjkjjj 9 ай бұрын
I got a Subaru Forester 2017, will this work on it??
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Should work just fine.
@jjjjjjjjjjjjkjjj 9 ай бұрын
Is the spacer nut needed????
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Yes, or you'll just twist the matching nut tight to the back of the stud hole.
@jessejames96 9 ай бұрын
T31? 😂
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
True enough, they exist. That's what it was - until it broke. Now I just have a T30 and T35. I'm sure a T30 would work too (unless it's totally seized and you'll break that one too!).
@jessejames96 4 ай бұрын
@@goproguy7844 never heard of a T31 but I’ll take your word for it
@a.j.williams195 9 ай бұрын
Your audio sucks!!!
@joemccormick6790 9 ай бұрын
Not on a Subaru, it wouldn't come out that easy!
@stigonutube 10 ай бұрын
wow Great tips..
@dirkrieger8783 10 ай бұрын
why not fix the worn brakes?
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Brakes were fine for another 2 years. Rusty, but plenty of meat left. Everything rusts here - thus the seized hub assembly.
@enzo-lh2iz 10 ай бұрын
Maybe I got super lucky but my process was not this complicated. I put a pipe wrench on the top of the bearing and dropped a sledge hammer straight down onto the wrench handle. Came out in one try, maybe I got lucky but the thing was covered in rust and has been for almost 20 years
@mrdiyguy123 10 ай бұрын
Good video and thanks for posting. I have some constructive feedback for you. @1:29 you say to pound on the nut and not the shaft. This is an easy way to destroy the threads on the shaft. The shaft is actually designed to take a beating. If you look at @2:30 you will see the first millimeter does not have thread and that section is actually tapered inward. This is to accommodate any slight mushrooming. The best way is to use a pointed chisel with a hammer or air hammer. The dimple in the center of the shaft is to accept that chisels point. Again, great job.
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
An air hammer is great, but I didn't have a compressor. I've seen plenty of axle shafts mushroom right past the blank 5mm. I recommend keeping the nut on. Don't hit that axle shaft without a nut on it - or you'll learn fast when you then need to replace an otherwise perfectly good CV joint because you can't thread a new axle nut onto it!
@languagearts1 3 ай бұрын
@@goproguy7844 If I have hit the axle shaft, I usually keep the bolt on and put a small section of 2 x 4 lumber on it and hit that to avoid damage... but this may not work on every car because shaft has to be sticking out a bit.
@maurice3464 10 ай бұрын
Fucksake! It worked;)
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Yes! Awesome feeling when you hear that "POP"!!!
@mikewhite9010 10 ай бұрын
Thank you much! Never have seen this approach but it worked great!!
@johnogden5 10 ай бұрын
Your bolt trick was the solution we needed. Nothing else we tried worked. We did end up removing 3 lug bolts and using 3 hardened bolts for the removal. That allowed us to quickly distribute the load as we were pulling it off. We were working on a 2012 Ford Flex. The galvanic corrosion between the aluminum knuckle and the steel bearing is terrible here in Michigan. Thank you.
@goproguy7844 4 ай бұрын
Yup - I'm a neighbor to your south. The struggle is real!
@rodmitchell8064 11 ай бұрын
Bolt and nut idea works great IF you have a good surface to push against, much better to use High quality FINE thread bolt and nut with plenty of Moly Lubricant on the threads
@tamaraclark2879 11 ай бұрын
You’re a life saver! Thank you! ❤🎉😂
@JoseSMercado 11 ай бұрын
There you go! Now you have a damaged anti splash guard!
@kevinB931 11 ай бұрын
Came here for bearing help.. not hub help
@jim8129 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for your efforts! Not sure I would bother treating the wheels, but the results on the paint looked good.
@justalex6989 Жыл бұрын
Nice!! Now how do i get my rusty ball hitch out? 😂