Yup - I'm a neighbor to your south. The struggle is real!

Glad to share the knowledge and save your neighbors from an ear full of obscenities. I had plenty of those flying around until I figured this out.

De nada!! YESSSSS! Another win! Yeah - it really works! Glad this video added to your success!

What size bolt did you use

Yup, never used lock tight on salt belt cars, especially Quebec.

The stuck part doesn't rotate. So it is valid to rotate the wheel to pull at different spots.

@sexiewasd - that's the way we like it!!! The rear ones on Ford Explorers are the absolute worst hubs to try to get off. Even when the things were under warranty, they were hell to remove especially for the 0.7 hours it paid.

Also, don't use antiseize, if anything use locktite. You don't want it coming off easier. Wheel bearings as of about 2005s'ish are designed to last 100k miles. Ever which, you'll need to replace them again. So yes, you'll replace it again, so why locktite, because you don't want the axle nut to loosen as you drive. The rotor and wheel could come off while driving, and antiseize would make it easier to happen. By the time you hear symptoms of a bad bearing occuring it may be too late. Locktite will make sure that bearing stays on even if it full seized. What happens if a bearing fails? Two things: it either locks your wheel up. That left or right tire stops turning while the others do. The bearing stops rotating but doesn't break apart or come out. Or the second thing is the bearing seized, stops rotating but it slides along the axle, shoving the nut out the way and there goes your wheel. Antiseize can make the route of pushing the nut off easier than stopping the wheel. A lot of factors come into play here. A lot. You could damage CV joints, CV axles, transmission gear/syncos, damage from wheel bearings damage other suspension and steering components etc etc This video is great! Just I personally, and highly recommend not using antiseize in this situation. Your life or your transmission?

@@ChipperTheChipster I think he’s only talking about putting antiseize on the surface where the knuckle and bearing housing meet. That way they are less likely to be stuck on when replacing in the future. He did mention putting loctite on all the bolts though. The antiseize on the outside of the bearing housing has nothing to do with the bolts holding it in place, so there is no danger at all.

The old bearing is being tossed, so not pulling evenly is not an issue since damaging a useless part has no consequences.

So glad it worked! Would have loved to see your face when it started moving. I know I've had moments of epiphany when things finally worked the way they're supposed to also!

Slide hammer is worthless when it comes to aluminum corrosion.

​@@Kiddro22 They can be useless with the standard sized hammer, but can be made very effective if you upsize the weights.. Still, the jackscrew method is much better.

Glad it worked! Hardest part is running to the store to get a proper sized grade 8 bolt, nut & washers.

Glad it helped

Underrated comment !

Glad it worked! Hardened bolts make a substantial difference.

Exactly!!! In a rush I forgot to do so and now I have to replace my abs sensor. Dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree.

Agreed! That’s a good point!

depends on the type of hub it has.

An air hammer is great, but I didn't have a compressor. I've seen plenty of axle shafts mushroom right past the blank 5mm. I recommend keeping the nut on. Don't hit that axle shaft without a nut on it - or you'll learn fast when you then need to replace an otherwise perfectly good CV joint because you can't thread a new axle nut onto it!

@@goproguy7844 If I have hit the axle shaft, I usually keep the bolt on and put a small section of 2 x 4 lumber on it and hit that to avoid damage... but this may not work on every car because shaft has to be sticking out a bit.

Glad the video helped. Best wishes.

ANYTHING Porsche is a pta to work on.

Thanks for the kind words!

Need a video on this

puller works great would never use the bolt trick against alloy components , bolt idea pulls uneven $35. well worth it.

Glad it helped!

Great to hear!

Glad I could help!!

Rusty NY is probably just as bad as rusty OH! I know your pain brother. It will work! Read the comments of all the successful removals. When all else fails, you'll wish you had tried this hours before!

@@goproguy7844 It didn't work. When I tightened the bolt, it split the bearing. The lug part fell off. The back piece was stuck on. I had an awful time. I spent hours. I finally drove wood chisels in the cracks. When they were wide enough, I hammered in a cold chisel and pry bar. I worked my way around until it finally popped out. What a nightmare that turned out to be.

I think he did

I would have used triple the amount he used

I use that stuff like most people use lotion. Keeps my skin supple and shiny. Cheers.

Another victory! Glad it worked!!!

Neat trick but this guy is not good at repairing vehicles. First of all he should use a real hammer. Probably wouldn't have needed to use the bolt trick. Second, he should torque the axle nut to manufacturer's spec. The bearings need the proper preload for longevity.

@@meabob and you can see he has cheap tools, Always should have impact sockets

Whiners you do a video

This one was NE Ohio. Lots of rust on this and the bolts were certainly not clean! Look at the old bearing / hub - a rust belt standard!

Yes! Another victory! Glad it worked! Thanks for the comment!

The "plate" is the dust shield. Just keeps brake dust from interacting with brake parts. This will vary by manufacturer, or in some cases not even exist.

Unfortunately, I bought this one when it was 12 years old and full of salty rust underneath. Body is still fine though!

Glad it helped!

True! Wish I had a hydraulic lift!

@@goproguy7844 - :/

I wear knee pads when i’m working on cars. Really messed up my knees one day doing brakes, so resort to them every time now. I have a little rolling stool to sit on as well.

@@goproguy7844 I use a Yoga matt, makes a massive difference.

I was told this so many times growing up. Never listened, and at 40 I scream whenever my knees touch a hard surface. I wish I would have listened.

Those thing are a pain in the rear.

Or use a 4 lbs sledge hammer on the hub face and save your flatheads to break elsewhere. I work in the rustbelt and some of these hubs are a real MF'er to get out of the knuckles.

Good question! 2" may work, 3" will probably work for every application. There's no harm in having a little longer bolt. Take a lug nut to the hardware store - make sure your HARDENED bolt (& nut) is smaller diameter than your wheel studs. So the bolt you buy needs to fit through the lug nut without hitting threads. That doesn't mean an 1/8" bolt will work. Make sure it's as wide as possible - but still needs to fit through the stud hole in your bearing / hub assembly. Good luck!

Even for the most stuck hubs, the bolt may make an 1/8" or so imprint dimple, but it won't be significant. The video recommends pulling from multiple sides to balance the extraction angle. And yes - the bearing could pull out of the hub with the hub stuck in the knuckle - but you'd have that problem no matter what method you planned to remove it. If that happens, the hub has to be tapped, cut or pressed out of the knuckle (or replace the entire knuckle).

That's a safety feature to stop the nut unwinding. When installing, once the nut is tight you use a punch to bend the tabs into the recesses. When removing the nut you do the reverse so you can remove the nut.

Or just rent a puller from AutoZone and keep a Map gas tank near😎😉

I've used regular bolts with no issues. If the hub is super stuff you may have to throw the bolts out. We have a large bolt bin so it's a no issue.