Personally, if needed, I simply spray some electric motor contact cleaner on the gunky components. So far, I never had to soak my parts because I have been able to obtain good results with my procedure and I cannot give my opinion about soaking.

There is no specific fuse used to directly protect or turn OFF the Fuel Pump Module. The fuel management is done by the TIPM electronic fuel pump control system.

Some lower control arms fit well but some don't. Good luck!

@mtlcarguy did the control arm yesterday but still getting noise going over bumps at low speed. Turns out that the noise might be bad cv axles.

For Volvo(s) not equipped with drum brakes: Even if the cables are not replaced, normally, it is recommended to jack-up the rear section of the vehicle to adjust the handbrake cable. For safety, the vehicle must be parked on a level surface and the front wheels blocked with wheel chocks. In this case, I always use jack stands Assuming the brake pads are properly positioned and not hot, I unclip the handbrake/lever gaiter and gain access to the adjusting nut. When the handbrake is in rest position and the protruding portion of the bolt threads is 7mm over the nut, I tighten the nut to obtain is a small friction between the brake pads and the rotors. Then I test the position of the handbrake lever. If or when the handbrake lever is properly lifted/positioned (+ locked) and the rear wheels cannot rotate anymore, the lever can be lowered and the adjusting nut tightened. After the handbrake lever is lifted again to double check the results. Usually, the parking brakes work properly after this second test. When a vehicle is not jacked up to test the friction between the brake pads and the rotors, there is less chance to properly adjust the parking brake cable. Many KZfaq videos are available online if you want to watch generic cables adjustments with vehicles not equipped with parking drum brakes.

@@mtlcarguy Thank you! I appreciate the additional advice on adjusting the parking brake. I definitely will jack the rear of the car up to adjust the brake. I wanted to use car ramps for safety reasons as I trust them more than my car stands.

Congratulation !

De nada

With the ECU P28, there is only 2 contact sockets installed in the 3 cavity DLC connector (one cavity is empty). The 2 contact sockets/wires are connected to the P28 D7 and D22 pins. The ECU P28 was not engineered with the K-Line. Most of the 3pin DLC adapter sold on line are made for K-Line system and do not work with the P28. Later when the newer ECU/PCM(s) were equipped with the K-Line system, the DLC connector had 3 contact sockets that were more compatibles with the newer scan tools. Note: I used a separate power and ground so I was able to turn off the engine and remove the key and still be able to keep the scan tool instantly active when starting the engine minutes or hours later to monitor the live data .

Interesting I assume it would have been the same I have a p2j-j71 ECU I plan on wiring the OBD2 port directly to the 3 pin connector It should work . Fingers crossed 🤞

Year 2009 and 2.4L

Undoing the camshaft sensor wheel screw can be a problem sometimes. A common cordless impact wrench with 3 variable strength/speed can be used to undo the screw, I tried with the medium strength and it worked. You can bag and tag the bolts, the nuts and the screws to help when it is time to refit the parts.

First, check the power steering fluid level in the reservoir ( ref.: 4:55). If the level is too low, it means that the system is loosing some fluid from one of the fluid lines or from the rack and pinion fluid seals, so air pockets can be introduced in the system via the fluid reservoir.. In this case, you should use your phone to take a good picture or film the low level of the fluid to prove to the repair shop that it is still leaking from somewhere even if you can not see it. But, if the level is between min and max, the problem should be caused by a defective power steering pump.

@@mtlcarguy Thanks for the quick response! I will do that as soon as possible and let you know what I find. I have one more question. I am planning on doing an oil change, changing the spark plugs and cleaning the fuel injectors myself but I'm not sure what tools to buy. I'm a bit confused about the difference between a socket wrench and a ratchet. What tools should I be buying considering I'm on a tight budget? Thanks, Cat

@@DeadInsideUniverse For oil change, look at: www.autozone.com/diy/motor-oil/tools-to-change-oil Note: For hazardous products like oil, the city of Laval collects used oil and oil filters. For beginners tools, look at: www.bestcolleges.com/trades/auto-mechanic/must-have-tools/ To identify the tools, google the name of the tool and look at the picture in ''Images'' menu.

Buongiorno ! There is no real standard. You simply measure it on your vehicle on an even ground, because it varies a little depending on the strength of the coil spring, on the age of the coil spring and on the optional suspension available on different Patriot/Compass.

@@mtlcarguy thanks a lot! I’ve just replaced the whole rear suspensions of my wife’s 2011 Jeep Patriot..rear subframe was completely rusted out! Having some issues with the alignment but I think I figured it out..

@@piva84 Years ago, I received a service bulletin from Jeep that extended the warranty up to 10 years to replace the damaged front and/or the rear subframe(s). I had the parts replaced for free 7 years ago. I only payed for the alignment.

@@mtlcarguy I've check that. They told me the warranty was expired 3 years ago on mine. So I had to do it myself. I'm still struggling to get the vehicle aligned. If loosen up all the bolts, let the vehicle sit on the rear suspensions, measure the distance between the center of the wheel and the fender and then lift it up again, preload the struts to the same distance and tighten the bolts...that should work right? I'm not able to tight all the bolts properly when the vehicle is on the ground...thanks!

@@piva84 You can also lower and sit the 2 rear wheels on pieces of wood to have the rear suspension in normal load condition and at the same time have more space to move and tighten the bolts and nuts.

Thanks for sharing, It is always useful to have more choice when working on a project.

Usually with this type of oil seal, I insert a screw in the flat side of the oil seal and I pry it out. Open this link and watch the video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e86hrZSKks3Ld6M.html

Because you had a ''power steering system failure'' detected by an electronic module, I would check for something closely related to the pump. First I would check the level of the fluid present in the pump assembly even if you did not see any leaking fluid. Then, if the level and the color of the fluid was fine, I would check the electrical connections of the pump to make sure the electronic controller and the motor of the pump were properly powered. At last I would maybe buy a known good used electric pump and replace it. An other way to troubleshoot the system in order to eliminate or find probable problems, is to use a sophisticated bidirectional scan tool to perform electrical tests by controlling the pump directly.

How much you got it for pal ?

Get rid of it something is always breaking on them

I got a 04 s40 1 year ago nothing but trouble

340-440$ for labor

A good bidirectional scan tool is required to troubleshoot the window regulator modules if it is an electronic or electrical problem. This kind of work is usually done by a specialist.

The kit from Muffler Express Canada and the M12 nuts from a Carquest Auto Parts.

Mile lighthhouse*

If you mean fog lights, there is no specific dedicated fuse. The output power comes from the TIPM C11 connector. You can try the fuse 31(Headlamp Washer Relay Control) or the fuse 36 (Headlamp/Washer Control/Smart Glass) or ask your local Jeep dealer service person.

Those timing belts would brake before stretching out, like you described it. On this S40 2.4 engine, first the crankshaft marks are aligned to obtain a proper dead center, then, the camshaft slotted ends are parallelly aligned (or re-aligned) with the upper surface of the cylinder head using the camshaft locking tool. Therefore, the sprocket timing marks should be aligned (or re-aligned) with the plastic sprocket cover timing notches. When the bolt(s) of a sprocket is (are) torqued down, it is possible that the sprocket(s) could have rotated a fraction and lost the adjustment, this is why, I always double checked the notches alignments after. A defective VVT phasing system can cause a problem but it is extremely rare. A defective timing belt tensioner or a tensioner installation could cause belt tension problems like skipping a tooth or getting too lose. Assuming that you have installed the proper timing belt, you may have to re-check your installation to avoid catastrophic problems. Note: I noticed years ago that a guy used a single steel flat bar to align the camshafts, this was a mistake because the slotted ends of the camshafts are offsetted differently and it changes the timing a bit.

@@mtlcarguy Thanks for your reply ✌️ I did one timing belt a few years ago on a Hyundai and all worked perfectly, now this Volvo is kind of a pain with due to space restrictions, and I'm stuck trying to remove the crankshaft but, and I assume it does get loose counterclockwise. I had put oil for 3 days to she if that penetrate and loose it ...but so far nothing..

​@@simengineering9183 When you say ''trying to remove the crankshaft'' I assume you mean ''trying to remove the crankshaft center nut''. Trying to undo the big center nut with a common cordless impact wrench or a common 1/2'' drive ratchet, sometimes, it doesn't work without a lot of effort, this is why I use a more powerful electric impact wrench like it is shown @ 2:51. The crankshaft center nut and the camshaft sensor wheel screw do get loose counterclockwise. I did undo the camshaft sensor wheel screw on two other Volvo engines and it worked with a common cordless impact wrench without damaging the screw or the Torx bit socket.

@@mtlcarguy I finally got it out, Heat up the nut and I used a impact gun, funny I use a cheap one and before that I was using a breaker bar with a pipe and nothing, but my bad as I was using 3/4 to 1/2 extension and I noticed it wasn't moving, just flexing on the weak joint now I got the 3/4 proper extension but heat did the magic trick. 😄 now to install all the new parts and hopefully I will get it done today🙏