p0012 code intake (a) camshaft position timing - over-retarded (bank 1)

What symptoms accur if VCT are not working....mine have been replaced?

Do you have the link to the valve gasket

i thought you had to install the vct solenoids with the pins in the in position.. does it matter?

Is it required to drail all the oil first? Been having this problem since i got the truck at 98k. Im at 142k now and been putting off doing it cause the shop wants $1400 to do it. It looks so easy

For all the half ass mtfs who make useless videos with tag "How to remove the valve cover" WATCH THIS VIDEO! This is how you do it,you the man!. Excellent video,there ain't too many of us left anymore

Great video, Anyone knows the vct bolt torques?

How did you know that the solenoids need to be changed?

Between these and the coolant temp sensors that go bad, ive only been stranded 3hrs from home twice!

Is there any noise associated with VCT failure on the 5.0? I have had a couple stalls. But now have a light throttle low RPM occasional kinda clacking noise sounds like detonation but have played with better fuel and have not heard any change.

How have the lights and adhesive held up.

Use the Ford performance VCT solenoids. They're $100 a set of for from CJ

Looks good 👍

Dip stick tube screws part the pay out

How long does it take to make this repair?

Anyone doing this job will want to follow Ford service bulletin 19-2309 unless you want leaks.

Hey man I just want to thank you guys for putting this video out here. I have a 2016 F-150 5.0. In the summer I had experienced the rough idle, occasional stalls when in idle or park, engine was a bit noisy kind of like a diesel. It took a while before the check engine light finally came on and sure enough code P0022, which indicated an issue with the camshaft timing for bank 2. So I watched this video step by step and replaced both VVT solenoids. Bam!! the problem went away. About 2 weeks ago I noticed the same problems I was having before in the summer, occasional stalls, rough idle intermittently, today was probably the worst. No check engine light. I examined the VVT solenoids I replaced and noticed one of them is leaking oil internally. I have two suspicions. ONE, worst case scenario: is that maybe the CAM Phasers are causing the solenoids to go bad, I hope not because that's a huge job and I don't know if I'm skilled enough for a job like that ,also its very expensive. TWO, best case scenario: I just happened to buy a lemon solenoid from advanced auto parts that's leaking oil and it needs to be replaced again. Is there a way I can tell if it's the cam phasers once the valve cover is removed? I plan on removing the valve cover tomorrow and replacing the solenoids again. Thanks again and sorry for writing a book. Really appreciate all your help!

Is this the same as the 2020 5.0

If the seal on the vct selenoid leaks will the electrical connector be gushing out oil

Is this what is making the chain sound on cold starts when you let off the gas pedal?

Thanks for explaining it! I’m thinking about doing something similar for my trailer.

The 8 mm flange nut and stud on top of the 10 mm valve cover bolt is a problem. It is the most time-consuming part of the job. I needed to access the nut through the wheel well after removing the skirt, and I used vice grips on the stud threats to loosen the bolt, then disconnect the other end of the earth wire/ground wire from the firewall, then twist the valve cover bolt with 8 mm flange nut and wire end all attached. Had to replace it in reverse fashion, all connected and looking stupid. Tightened it down good and no leaks. Code went away. Driver side, Bank 2. The "earth wire" has a number on the label, "19A095". Also, "S081H." I would like to buy a new 10 mm valve cover bolt with the stupid 8 mm flange nut on stud top so it looks right, and I might have less of a problem the next time if there is one. Does anyone know how to ask for this part? I can't find it. Just the wire itself comes up in my Internet search. Thanks

Can you change the gasket for the vct I'm getting little oil around the outside on the passenger side

whats the torq on the solonoid bolts?

Great video. Thanks fir sharing

You make it look so easy

Brother A’s someone who speaks around the world I can say you did a great job for your 1st video🏆🏆 I wish I could do this to my THOR ACE 30.1 but I can barley work a Drill😞😞

To remove oil stick tube push flat yellow part in and rotate a little counterclockwise and remove tube. Reinstall clockwise

I have a 2016 F150. How do you know when to change the VCT solenoid? Do I wait for the code to appear, or is it written to change them perodically? I have 140,000 on the truck. Thanks for responding back. THUMBS UP!!!!!

What was the torque specs on the solenoids?

Really great video! Everything was well explained and well covered!

Torque the VCT bolts to 27lbs! (at least that's what I did after reading the info in a forum). There was a fair amount of info saying 70-ish lbs-ft. ...I sheared 2 bolts trying to do that. If you got your VCTs from Summit Racing like I did, definitely don't do that.

Thank you, do you have part numbers for the vct and gaskets?

Great video! Would love to hear an update from you if this has still been a good fix for the rough idle or if it has come back over time?

Dip Stick Tube Removal Advice - Unplug Engine Oil Cap to allow air to escape and then twist dip stick tube to the left. You’ll see how easy it is to remove now. The trapped air created positive pressure.

Also, these are pos plastic parts. Ford makes a gt500 cover that fits these out of aluminum to avoid this repeat issue and oil leaks.

That pry method on the coil packs is a surefire way to break them. It is a pain but best to pull by hand with even pressure and hope it pops. I broke 2 using that exact pry method so be careful.

hi i did everything just like this and my truck began to show the check engine light and code p0022? they were new , any idea what I couldve done wrong?

How do you remove the oil dipstick tube?

Great video, about to change all 4 on a 17 F150. Engine idles rough when at a red light and check engine comes on and off. Hooked it up to my scanner and that's what it looks like is causing the issue.

I have bought a set that looks similar. Mine has the 110 plug that came with it also . Can I just cut that plug off and splice the wires to a 12 volt source just before the control module ?

How do you remove the dipstick tube? I'm working on a 2017 . Please let us know ! CHEERS!!

I’m about to do this on my truck, are the solenoids plug and play or do you have to calibrate them in any way?

You did great on your first video. Near the end you mentioned a sensor while showing the lights, what is that sensor for?

Great video! Thanks for making it. Just curious how many km’s were on this motor?

Did that module come with the lights or did you have to find one that ran off 12v?

How much does this job cost?

Which side is bank 1 or bank 2 on these engines mine has a p0022 bank 2

Well I guess I have the exact same problem! I'm too old and fat to go crawling around up under my hood! I have 105,000 kms on my 2016 5 litre and exact same symptons. Rough idle after the truck warms up and occasional stalling. When the truck is warm these symptoms are continuous although the check engine light is intermittent! Not every time I start the truck. Same code someone else mentions below P0022. My ford dealer wants $3300 plus tax to do this job but they mentioned solenoids and chain so maybe they are doing it all! My warranty was 5 year and 100,000 kilos so of course I just missed it! I will probably need new brakes as well because coming through Montreal in stop and go traffic for miles I had one foot lightly on the gas and one foot on the brake. Now my brakes are pulsing. I was going to call Ford Canada and bitch because it's looking like a pretty common problem but I may do something more productive and rearrange my paper clip drawer! Thanks for the video though because it helps me understand just what they are doing.

Where is the filter at for the pump?