I want to thank you guys for putting this video out there. I think this is the first true video on my 2016 f150 that actually goes into detail. Thanks again.

For all the half ass mtfs who make useless videos with tag "How to remove the valve cover" WATCH THIS VIDEO! This is how you do it,you the man!. Excellent video,there ain't too many of us left anymore

Hey man I just want to thank you guys for putting this video out here. I have a 2016 F-150 5.0. In the summer I had experienced the rough idle, occasional stalls when in idle or park, engine was a bit noisy kind of like a diesel. It took a while before the check engine light finally came on and sure enough code P0022, which indicated an issue with the camshaft timing for bank 2. So I watched this video step by step and replaced both VVT solenoids. Bam!! the problem went away. About 2 weeks ago I noticed the same problems I was having before in the summer, occasional stalls, rough idle intermittently, today was probably the worst. No check engine light. I examined the VVT solenoids I replaced and noticed one of them is leaking oil internally. I have two suspicions. ONE, worst case scenario: is that maybe the CAM Phasers are causing the solenoids to go bad, I hope not because that's a huge job and I don't know if I'm skilled enough for a job like that ,also its very expensive. TWO, best case scenario: I just happened to buy a lemon solenoid from advanced auto parts that's leaking oil and it needs to be replaced again. Is there a way I can tell if it's the cam phasers once the valve cover is removed? I plan on removing the valve cover tomorrow and replacing the solenoids again. Thanks again and sorry for writing a book. Really appreciate all your help!

Dip Stick Tube Removal Advice - Unplug Engine Oil Cap to allow air to escape and then twist dip stick tube to the left. You’ll see how easy it is to remove now. The trapped air created positive pressure.

Really great video! Everything was well explained and well covered!

thats a clean camshaft area, looks like u keep up with the maintenance

That pry method on the coil packs is a surefire way to break them. It is a pain but best to pull by hand with even pressure and hope it pops. I broke 2 using that exact pry method so be careful.

Wow, thanks for this. Amazing tutorial

The oil dipstick tube twist into the valve cover. Just grap it with some needle nose pliers and twist to the left and it will unscrew.....then just pull it out.

I highly recommend just replacing all 4 solenoids, both driver and passenger sides.

To remove oil stick tube push flat yellow part in and rotate a little counterclockwise and remove tube. Reinstall clockwise

Well i got some good news and bad news for ya boys... I bought all new VCT solenoids and new camshaft position sensor for intake bank 2. Replaced the sensor first before having to get into the VCTs... good news, truck hasn’t stalled since and idles better and drives much better... bad news, fuck me is it ever in a tight spot at the back of the engine... need baby hands... and doing it all by feel... use a scan tool or forscan or obdlink, when your truck starts acting up, watch the VCT diff PID (difference between actual degrees and demanded)... if both intake and exhaust are off wack on one bank (not close to zero for difference or error) you may be dealing with stretched chain on that side or skip tooth for timing... not as common on these 5.0 as they are on 5.4... both banks off, you make have bigger issues with cam phasers and timing chains. If only one is acting up on one bank, change that Camshaft position sensor first, even if doesn’t throw a code and even if it’s just intermittent rough idle or stalling, can just be a cam shaft sensor reading wrong and throwing everything into chaos. Used a spectra brand sensor and so far so good... use those PIDs to your advantage.. In my case, intake bank 2 was over retarded at idle. Checked the VCT ERR or DIFF PID, when it was acting up it ran up 40 degrees off what was desired... cheap start and less headache to try a sensor first so I did. I’ll update if shit hits the fan again. Best of luck to everyone

Great video! Thanks for making it. Just curious how many km’s were on this motor?

Thank you!

Great video, about to change all 4 on a 17 F150. Engine idles rough when at a red light and check engine comes on and off. Hooked it up to my scanner and that's what it looks like is causing the issue.

Great video! Would love to hear an update from you if this has still been a good fix for the rough idle or if it has come back over time?

I have a 2014 f150 fx4 5.0 with a rough idle but no stalling I have multiple codes p0305 p0308 and p0300 I replaced plugs coils injectors and intake gaskets. Would my vcts be causing this or could it be something els please help!

Is there any noise associated with VCT failure on the 5.0? I have had a couple stalls. But now have a light throttle low RPM occasional kinda clacking noise sounds like detonation but have played with better fuel and have not heard any change.

Thanks for this. It’s the first video on you tube for this replacement. My 2016 5.0 is intermittently idling rough and has occasionally stalled. I think I need to replace my VCT solenoids. Do you know which side usually causes this problem? - I’m just wondering if I could safe some work and start by just changing one side.

How do you remove the dipstick tube? I'm working on a 2017 . Please let us know ! CHEERS!!

Well I guess I have the exact same problem! I'm too old and fat to go crawling around up under my hood! I have 105,000 kms on my 2016 5 litre and exact same symptons. Rough idle after the truck warms up and occasional stalling. When the truck is warm these symptoms are continuous although the check engine light is intermittent! Not every time I start the truck. Same code someone else mentions below P0022. My ford dealer wants $3300 plus tax to do this job but they mentioned solenoids and chain so maybe they are doing it all! My warranty was 5 year and 100,000 kilos so of course I just missed it! I will probably need new brakes as well because coming through Montreal in stop and go traffic for miles I had one foot lightly on the gas and one foot on the brake. Now my brakes are pulsing. I was going to call Ford Canada and bitch because it's looking like a pretty common problem but I may do something more productive and rearrange my paper clip drawer! Thanks for the video though because it helps me understand just what they are doing.

Just finished doing all 4 vcr solenoids. The drivers side isn't that difficult, the passenger side on the other hand.....is a little more difficult. I would suggest taking the wheel fender lining out for the passenger side, it makes reaching the ground bolt and wire clips much easier. I will give an update after a few days to see if my truck stalls .

What mileage did you have to change them This video is very helpful thank you gives me confidence to handle this job possibly my self !

Is this what is making the chain sound on cold starts when you let off the gas pedal?

Thanks for the video! My 16 5.0 idles rough then stalls about once a day for past couple weeks but hasn't thrown a code? I'm thinking the same issue? Just not positive without DTC's!

Can you change the gasket for the vct I'm getting little oil around the outside on the passenger side

Also, these are pos plastic parts. Ford makes a gt500 cover that fits these out of aluminum to avoid this repeat issue and oil leaks.

Thank you so much, but I cant find which side "Bank 1" is on drivers side or passenger?

Is it required to drail all the oil first? Been having this problem since i got the truck at 98k. Im at 142k now and been putting off doing it cause the shop wants $1400 to do it. It looks so easy

If the seal on the vct selenoid leaks will the electrical connector be gushing out oil

I’m about to do this on my truck, are the solenoids plug and play or do you have to calibrate them in any way?

I have a 2016 F150 with a 5.0. It only has 39k miles on it. But I’m getting rough idle and stalling at times. Check engine light comes on at times also. Sounds like this VCT could be the issue. Thoughts?

I have a 2016 F150. How do you know when to change the VCT solenoid? Do I wait for the code to appear, or is it written to change them perodically? I have 140,000 on the truck. Thanks for responding back. THUMBS UP!!!!!

How long does it take to make this repair?

The 8 mm flange nut and stud on top of the 10 mm valve cover bolt is a problem. It is the most time-consuming part of the job. I needed to access the nut through the wheel well after removing the skirt, and I used vice grips on the stud threats to loosen the bolt, then disconnect the other end of the earth wire/ground wire from the firewall, then twist the valve cover bolt with 8 mm flange nut and wire end all attached. Had to replace it in reverse fashion, all connected and looking stupid. Tightened it down good and no leaks. Code went away. Driver side, Bank 2. The "earth wire" has a number on the label, "19A095". Also, "S081H." I would like to buy a new 10 mm valve cover bolt with the stupid 8 mm flange nut on stud top so it looks right, and I might have less of a problem the next time if there is one. Does anyone know how to ask for this part? I can't find it. Just the wire itself comes up in my Internet search. Thanks

How do you remove the oil dipstick tube?

hi i did everything just like this and my truck began to show the check engine light and code p0022? they were new , any idea what I couldve done wrong?

Great video, Anyone knows the vct bolt torques?

What is the part number for the valve cover gasket

Can you please make a video on how to remove the dipstick tube? I I’m in need of replacing the solenoids as well and don’t want to break it.

i thought you had to install the vct solenoids with the pins in the in position.. does it matter?

Which side is bank 1 or bank 2 on these engines mine has a p0022 bank 2

Thank you, do you have part numbers for the vct and gaskets?

I have a 2016 F150 5.0 and I’m pulling the P0012 code on bank 1. Is bank 1 on the driver side or passenger side?

I have a problem no check engine light, if WOT engine losing power. ?

Would this be a same process for 2017 Ford F-150 5.0?

Between these and the coolant temp sensors that go bad, ive only been stranded 3hrs from home twice!

Do you have a rough idea what this repair would cost me in Canadian dollars for all 4 solenoids?

What symptoms accur if VCT are not working....mine have been replaced?

Is this the same as the 2020 5.0

Do you have the link to the valve gasket

2016 ford f150 5.0 shot a p022 bank 2 code im thinking might be vct solenoid

What’s the torque spec for the solenoids?

Dip stick tube screws part the pay out

How did you know that the solenoids need to be changed?

Torque the VCT bolts to 27lbs! (at least that's what I did after reading the info in a forum). There was a fair amount of info saying 70-ish lbs-ft. ...I sheared 2 bolts trying to do that. If you got your VCTs from Summit Racing like I did, definitely don't do that.

How much does this job cost?

What was the torque specs on the solenoids?

Use the Ford performance VCT solenoids. They're $100 a set of for from CJ

I'm getting ready to do all 4 vct solenoids. My rough idle is constant and will stall 50% of the time. This will be the last thing I know of to fix this issue because the truck has no codes. I have replaced the purge valve sensor, sparkplugs, coil packs, map sensor, and the fuel pump driver module. Truck still has the same rough idle and stalling. I hope this fixes it.

whats the torq on the solonoid bolts?

What issue was occurring that made you do this repair?

My mustang ecoboost has a bigger intake then that 😂 wow!!!!

Anyone doing this job will want to follow Ford service bulletin 19-2309 unless you want leaks.

So what you're saying is, that if someone has trouble changing out windshield wipers, they should not attempt this. lol

p0012 code intake (a) camshaft position timing - over-retarded (bank 1)