Those are pen marks stains on that leather bag!

I've been printing stamps commercially for 10 years for leather stamping. They stand up very well over time, I've never had a stamp fail in many years. If used correctly the stamp work is amazing. I print at 33% infill with at least 3 shells. My depth of the stamp is 3/8". I use a simple Harbor Freight arbor press with good quality veg tan leather. Most of my stamps are created with the Lulzbot mini with 2.85 PLA filament.

I wonder if anyone could recommend any books for a self taught person! I don't have internet in my work shed......imagine the difficulties!!😂

So what are you charging for a hand made bag?

been looking to make one of these myslef. the leather i have is alot 2softer2 than the one you have in the video. its 1.6mm supposedly. can you recommend how to stiffen up the leather? i was thinking about possibly a felt backer?

Looks like you are still getting some dye rubbing off after the conditioner was added. Do you add anything else to the top to stop the dye bleed? I could see this being an issue if someone wears light colored pants or coat and their purse or belt left color behind from friction contact.

Ive got exact bag from 50. My have original belt attached into back side of bag (22mm wide). It's interesting because I do not have mounting holes drilled on the sides but back side. Yours do not have any holes at the back side. It means they had two belt mounting systems.

Why is youtube allowing this video to advertise a free template in the title even though you are in fact selling the template for $4 in your link?

i dropped that usefull knife few times and the fixator mechanisms stopped to hold the blade the way it does. its still holds, but now you CAN pull with your fingers. i was trying to fix that but cant find a way, nor the video tutorial. there is spring in there and i have no any clue, where it belongs. please, help, desperately need in advice, dont wanna switch that beautifull knife to a new one

Can I purchase the pattern of this bag please ?

I purchased veg tanned leather sneakers, but I'm not completely happy with the colour(sort of dark orange), so I was thinking about applying a darker shade shoe paste, but because it's veg tanned, I thought maybe it won't work properly, so I searched for a video hoping to find some help. Any recommendations, anyone? 😊

Fiebings leather dye and Pro dye are both alcohol based! The difference is that the leather dye is powder pigmented and the Pro is oil based pigmented.

I used your video as a guide to make my wife one, and I modified it a little with 2 pockets on the inside back and a few other minor changes, but it turned out AMAZING. I jokingly told my wife I'll never be able to pull that off again, so she can't mess it up or anything lol thanks for your help!!

Think you could get even better results by flipping the print and printing by the stamp detail on the print bed and getting a nice even textured surface, instead of the top layer lines that you can see on some stamps. The bed layer will always be better than the top layer. You can add supports and it doesn’t matter the surface quality where the supports hold the top of the stamp since it won’t touch the leather.

interesting. and so simple. probably will work great with denim.

I feel like you might want to glue the soles to the uppers

I built my 3D printer 6 years ago.

You should be a hand model …❤

A 35yr old Harry Potter clone talking about leather embossing... how did I end up here?

One thing you might want to do in Tinker Cad is to round the corners of the base for the stamp. My method (for other similar projects) is to: Bring in a block that will be cut down to the size of the finished base in the process. Set height to 20 mm, and then size x and y to be larger than the image you are stamping. Apply a Radius to the block. Make sure all the content will still fit within the block space Drag the new 'base' off to the side. Now bring in two "hole' blocks, setting them each for 9 mm in height, and sizing them to the dimension of the base. Center the 'base' on one of the hole blocks, then merge them. This will cut the bottom off the block leaving a flat surface.. Flip the base, and bring it down to the graph bed of the workspace, Center the 'base' on the other 'hole block. Again merge the two, You should have a rounded corner block to use as a base for your stamp. Drag it down to the bed, center the block on the bottom of the stamp image, mirror one or both for the stamp, and export the resulting STL. If you don't merge them, it's a lot easier to extract that base for later re-use on another stamp. The main reason for this is that having a rounded set of corners will leave less chance for a corner to break off, or if there is some reason that the stamp gets started off center, for the corner to end up stamping into the leather. Mostly the former means that at least this part will be less likely to be the reason a given stamp breaks or fails. There's still going to be durability issues with the stamping image of course. 🙂 I believe there are nozzles down to 0.1 mm as well, but as you've no doubt discovered, reducing the nozzle size dramatically increases the time it takes to print. I'd like to see a process that allows you to add some draft angle to the stamped image to improve it's durability, but that's a bit more than TinkerCad can do at the moment. Autodesk would like you to move operations like that into Fusion360, which considering you're doing this as part of a leather working business would likely engage their prohibitively expensive (for most of us anyway) licensing fees. As long as this works, and you're OK with the time it takes to print spares of stamps, and have the sliced versions ready to print replacements at the end of the day, or on demand if the printer is in the back room of your shop, that works too.

Add Ironing option on your slicer for better final layer result

which one is the right nozzle to buy for a sidewinder x3 pro do you have any experience about it?

I love that the best material ended up being the cheapest and easiest one!

Why do you think that lefthanded people wear backpacks on their right shoulder? Watch - yes, but a backpack on a shoulder? - this is interesting

For what it's worth, PLA is not biodegradable in any meaningful way - it requires specialist high-temperature processes to break it down, it's not just something you can toss in your garden composter. The 'PLA is biodegradable and therefor nicer to the environment' thing is something filament manufacturers pushed, but is well debunked in the 3d printing community. That said, it's still the most common and easiest filament to use!

What was the glue that you used if I may ask? I’m researching materials for bag making and I’m trying to find a good glue :’D

James: My only question is...Do the PLA stamps (at .2mm nozzle) stand up to comparison with a brass stamp. Especially the right angle edges. I have been eyeing the Bambu Lab A1 mini for monthis. This is just another reason it would be great for me. I have a 9 year old Lulzbot Mini and it is slow. Finicky and a pain to work with. Lulzbot has been sold once or twice since I purchased that printer. $250 US vs. $1500 for the mini (years ago) is a bit easier to swallow. I don't need color changing filiment so the AMS is not necessary.

In the BambuLab slicer, selecting "Top Most Surface" for ironing can significantly improve the quality of your stamp.

Your sneakers look absolutely amazing, the leather and that color are 💥💥

Did you look at the warranty for these printers? 14-days? What kind of warranty is that? I was considering buying one, but now I will have to pass. Tells me these machines won't last.

PETG is not "harder" than PLA, it's tougher. PLA is harder, but less flexible, thus more brittle. So, I would definitely choose PLA for stamps. PETG flexes some, which is why it's tougher, but that's not a really desirable trait in a stamp. ,The next better choice probably would be Nylon or Polycarbonate, and maybe ASA?, as they would last longer, but those require a much more expensive printer, and frankly, I'd only choose it if I was selling stamps. For my own use, I don't care as much about serious longevity, since I can just print another, and my A1 is definitely NOT rated for ASA, PC or PA. For infill, I'd probably recommend 95% over 100%. At 100% any "over extrusion" will cause some distortion, and the strength difference between 95% and 100% is negligible.

"Ironing" a function in the slicer, that indeed irons the top layer can help you get a better finish as well

It's come to my attention that PETG CAN be used with the 0.2mm nozzle. I will definitely need to test this as the benefits of printing with the harder PETG material could be very interesting!

Would love to see longevity tests. You should be able to get all of the filaments to look the exact same with machine dialing, or a hair of sanding at the end. The biggest issue with these style of stamps is that they wear out after only a handful of uses. I would love to see tests till destruction.

Watching this video made me want to trade in my morning coffee for a 3D-printed Division Resurgence mug! ☕ That printer is straight-up making dreams come true! And can we talk about that funky music? It's like the soundtrack to my 3D printing adventures! 🎶 Plus, those cinematic shots had me feeling like I was starring in my own action flick! And those leather details? Classy touch! James, you're killing it with these vids! Keep 'em coming, mate!

我去年買了這台印表機，第一件事也是拿來做皮革印章哈哈。

You should try resin printer. Perfect clean embossing.

Excellent job. I have a few of these bags. I picked up this style a week ago for $45. Usually I'll just clean them with wax, oil .

So…that implies I can make my own pull-up leather…😮

I’ve been making leather protectants for years. And the the first rule of thumb, is Do Not, add too much neatsfoot oil. It will slowly rot your leather from within. Definitely avoid this recipe for shoes and furniture.

Be with an artisan. Imagine saying babe can you make me a new bag literally whenever you want…..

Don't know why you completely un-stitched every piece as it appeared that most of the main seams where in pretty good condition. The only ones that should have been replaced were the high stress ones. Just my opinion. And would have saved you a lot of stitching work.

hello sir.please share pdf pattern ?

I like the sheep’s foot blade mod. I’m totally gonna try it.

I love the personnalisation !! It reminds a mini-paintbrush ! It's just perfect in my mind ! 🥰 (J'adore votre travail sur d'autres réalisations en cuir et la pochette lui va à merveille ! Cela change des autres personnalisations ! Bravo !) ❤

My husband just finished making it! It works wonderfully! Thanks for the great idea!

I know i am late to this video but i brought a 1920s Crocodile leather bag for $40 and i am watching as many video's as i can to add knowledge. I will repair my leather bag. It is most beautiful! The bag you repaired is marvelous it looks similar to a bag my mother had.

I may be wrong with this one but usually water based glue should be used like contact cement. Apply on both faces, allow to dry a few minutes until barely tacky then press parts together. And yes too much of it obviously. That's probably why you find it to work not as good as neoprene glue. Les commentaires de Jeanne m'ont bien fait rigoler aussi ! 😁

Very nice. I like both diamond and French pricking irons. Too many leather people on KZfaq using round hole irons with 4, 5, or 6mm spacing. On things like wallets and watch straps it looks silly, but I think that even larger pieces like bags or briefcases look better with tighter, slanted stitching. And that ghost leather is beautiful. Ahhhh, so much leather and so little time.

Excellent video as always James! Learning French as i go along!