My concern is with the lifespan of that joint. Composite materials don't have the ductile properties of something like steel they are more effected by the cumulative effects of stress. I'm not a naval architect but I feel you should add some kind of a stiffener to tie the 3 parts of the boat together while lessening the effects of wave action and loading of the boat.

You are testing stretching (tension force) of the material but what you really need to test is bending. Bending is much more complex because it involves both tension and compression forces all together. The force required to break the plank in tension is not the same as the force required to break it when bent.

If you want to make your 40 foot house boat 50 feet long I'd start by looking at how a 50 foot boat is made and see where the additional strength is coming from. And Alternatively talk to a 50 foot boat manufacturer to see what they recommend and why. I didn't pay attention to your actual lengths I was just giving examples.

WOW not what I was expecting when I clicked... to be honest, I'm not sure what I was expecting. :) Great video though, so I figured I would feed the algorithm. I think I'll go on and subscribe too. I had a place at Texans next to the VFW, miss it badly. Oh, sorry about the AI Dirtbag scam (more expletives deleted) situation. That hurts. Good on you for testing and mathing it out!

I have been reading the comments I have lofted 100s of boats in my years of boat building all you need to do is repair the glass as you stated tie into your stringers and we're you join the hulls put bulkhead .

KZfaq algorithm did its job love this project and enjoyed your latest video keep up the great work

Yo this $#!+ was 🔥!!!! I’m saving this video 👌🏽

The algorithm bought me here, but Im an actual naval architect lol. Admire the hard work and dedication to testing but a few of your assumptions are a ways off w.r.t the calculation of stresses in the hull. Not that itll matter im sure if you just want to cruise around the lake.

You used a freelance website then are surprised why this outcome? lol

Did you actually expect a proper answer from an online "expert"?

Mr Pink was using KSI, not PSI. Not that it adds any to his credibility

About 36 years ago I did a similar thing changing my 36’ cabin cruiser to a 44’ cruiser. I found that using the same math that I used when figuring out cantilevers in construction. It was a successful project and to my knowledge the boat is still going strong. I haven’t owned it for 20 years but it’s moored a half mile from my house in the southern shores of Massachusetts. I used 8 layers of West System with alternating layers of a very particular fabric ( cheap polyester fabric)instead of fiberglass mats. (Inside) and on the outside it was faired out with 6 layers of Mat fiberglass and then 2 finish coats and two additional layers of fiberglass roll over the ENTIRE HULL. After skarfing the joints, router out a 1/4”-3/8” of the hull and lay solid mats into the route. After they are at the same profile you can then start the West System and layers of fabric in and out. Why CHEAP polyester?? Because the West System essentially melts into the fabric and makes a surface SO UNBELIEVABLE STRONG it will shock you. I got the idea from a book written about building with West System and plywood. I hope it works for you. It worked for me. Good luck!! 👍🇺🇸

I want to do open road race as well nice done with the run!

Did it make it to the lake🔥

The biggest liability with extending a boat as you are isn't the addition strain that you're imparting on the joints but rather the additional stresses imparted on the vessel as a whole. Being that you're only adding a small bit and its a lake boat I'm fairly confident you'll be fine. I've long dreamed of stitching two smaller boats together to build a massive stepped hull 30+ foot vessel on the cheap. Provided the two hulls could be allowed to flex somewhat independently I suspect that the vessel would wind up weighing significantly less than similarly sized conventional hulls. The weight of boats goes up almost exponentially with length because addition length puts much greater moment loads on the hull as a whole.

I'm one minute in to the video and already confidant that you're extension will perform admirably. In actually taking the time to make sample coupons and evaluate the physical realities of what you're trying to accomplish a successful outcome is damn near guaranteed. I'm a degree mechanical engineer who passed his EIT and I can tell you with confidence that 95% of those that I graduated with (back when the degree programs were significantly more robust) have little interest or aptitude in the physical realities of what you're undertaking.

I think you can easily make the joints strong enough. What I might have worried about is that the hull will now be almost 20% longer than it was designed for and that will both increase and change the load on the entire hull. Note: I am by no means a boat designer, just a guy who grew up by a fjord in Norway and has therefore been at sea a lot.

Call the guy who made the flex seal commercial he cut a boat in half and was on the water all day with no leaks. I trust him more than any architect or engineer.

Great series. Good tip on the primer tool, on GM inline engines. (Maybe others) However, GM V- engines use a groove in the distributor to cross the oil to the left side. One can be made from an old distributor or purchase a quality purpose made tool. Some Amazon comments mention some cheap ones don’t work.

Watching you down under- Great ideas for all of us on a boat budject no dought! Great to try a few possible remedies before spashing money on other possibilities- as we say in Australia - BOAT= Break out another thousand!

Don't take a houeboat out into open water, they are for lakes or intracoastal waterway cruises.....also install all new stringer bow to stern gunnel to gunnel. Good luck, can't wait to take thís project on with yoú.😅

Old boats are fun, if you like this kind of sh** 😂 I restored a 16‘ 1972 Winner Wildcat over the winter and we tried it out in Croatia. Big fun and we only broke down once (steering helm came loose on the z drive) but were able to limp back on our own. Now I have an issue that the engine dies at idle but runs fine at higher rpms, probably a vacuum problem - lets see… Keep on going and tell us about the jet boat!

Love the boat, you'll get her going!!!!!

I always wanted to put a ugh horn on my boat when I had one. About 10 years ago I sold a 1978 crestliner 15’ trihual I owned it for 2 years. 3 separate trips I had issues with it. I had battery issues, clogged fuel filters, and a fuel tank that wouldn’t prime.

Heyyy Kyle! TowBoat on Texoma is awesome - I should know 🤣 #projecthouseboat You'll get it!

Not a naval expert but the way we repair smc and fiberglass in structural autobody repair you need to bevel boat side of the fiberglass and fill with new fiber mat and resin by only patch one side you still have a breaking point at the joint. If you bevel both side it's almost impossible to broke at the repair area.

I got into boats back in the mid-80s. There wasn't any old wreck I couldn't see the potential in, and I was willing to put in the work. Woodcraft, fiberglass, becoming a half-ass marine mechanic of necessity, and enjoying varying levels of success. From 15' to 23', I did it all. Built a couple from scratch using my designs, and others. Speedboats, and I'm talking 100+mph, and jonboats too. Enjoyed it, mostly, but then I got old, and it ceased to be fun! I just finished what will probably be my last boat, a 15' runabout with a 1971 seahorse. It'll do me just fine. Enjoy the journey, boys. The memories, and the mistakes, will last a lifetime

Hopefully your answer this question just curious is that just regular plywood because I noticed I think in your string as I seen plugs

Puppy is gorgeous, please put a lifevest on her 🇦🇺🐶

order some quality parts this time! and at least act like you know what you are doing!

I didnt read through all the comments so maybe you answered what was wrong, but as a 3L mercruiser owner and someone who has dealt with the pertronix and coils and such on these. Take a gander at the OHM rating of the coil and verify it is correct for your ignition system. IF you get it wrong the coil it can get hot, burn up the pertonix etc. and have issues very similar to what you were having. Another one to look for is the ignition/starter contactor on my boat it had a bypass and also a resistor circuit. While cranking it was in bypass and providing full 12v to the ignition, and while running it went through a resistor and reduced the voltage to the ignition. Took a bit to diagnose that my bypass was open and the boat wouldn't fire while cranking but would sometimes fire just as you let off the switch and would start.

I may have mentioned it in a comment in another video, but I carry a 6hp outboard in my ski locker just in case I need it to get back to the ramp. I’m like you, I don’t want to ruin someone’s day and have them tow me back.

So you sandwiched ply to get that length?

I like how positive the captain of the tow boat was. Super cool.

Just a couple more projects to finish before I can start working on my 82' Boston Whaler Revenge V-20 again. I want to clean her up and update her sooo bad. I've been working my ASS off for the last couple years and now I just want to chill on the bayou hahaha Gotta put in more work before that though 👍🏻👍🏻

Cutting thick stainless is a major task. I made a water cooled exhaust for a twin turbo rotary using some heavy ss plate and man that was painful. I still don't get how the 02 sensor can work with a cooled exhaust, it must be hot to work, still trying to figure out how to do mine (not using the rotary now using a 3.8 ford v6) For my boat its a family boat, but for yours I'd just run over the back headers no water cooling, it is WAY easier, and if nobody is sitting back there or climbing into the water just a couple guys in front, you should be good! and it sounds awesome with open headers.

I traded for a tri hull in 1987 and totally restored it, however the Volvo Penta straight six with triple carbs needed no work. Last weekend on the Columbia River in Vancouver Washington after six hours of family fun my boat died and had to be towed….first time since restoration. A wire slipped its connection on the ignition condenser, 10 second fix

Hey how is the Amazon eva flooring holding up after a year?

Such a great storyteller! I had a similar experience with a pull cord. Looking forward to an update on the jet boat.

What brand of epoxy are you using? Im trying to figure out what epoxy resin to buy. Thanks

Man it sucks to be broke down anywhere, but especially the water, and Worse yet the Ocean. I am going old school too, because I am leery of the 4 strokes that you need a lap top and program to add fuel and oil. I also have a 70's something year Pisces TriHull 15' that I started a resto on but got a 69 Mako dream or nightmare that took over my spare time. Like 5 years now, but I did shatter a ankle so I call medical leave for 2 years. lol. Good luck. comment # 5 and 300 th view.

We scrapped a tri-hull. Best thing ever we ever did. Terrible in rough water. They were designed for those ding-dongs that try to stand up in a kayak and cast for fish. Because they identify PFDs as violating their rights and unmanly, often times they take a permanent nap .

Thanks for posting, your vids helped me along my rebuild and kept me motivated. -Jimmy from Canada

I feel ya!! The Mini konked out last Sunday on a drive, apparently the alternator had died and it ran until the battery was too dead to run. There probably should have been an idiot light to tell me, but there wasn't... $600 tow back to my house.

You know, if it wasnt an old project boat, it wouldnt be an adventure. I'm on the 4th engine in my 1971 Land'N sea. Finally broke down and got a more modern fuel injected 454. Just posted a video of me installing it. Looking forward to seeing what went wrong with yours. lol

Nancy's guy Frank here.... when I was in college, back in the late 60's, a fellow I knew bought one of the King Midgets new (he said it was the only thing he could afford), and he drove it to the college every day. One morning I was driving into town to get to school on the "interstate" AND believe it or not... I saw him pull onto the road just ahead of me. I recognized his car right away... how could I miss it... anyway I pulled in behind him and followed him into town. He said it had 12 HP... I think his model was a '66 or '67. I was surprised that he could get that little car up to 55 miles an hour... just barely mind you. He had told me it would run 55 but I didn't believe him until I followed him that morning. He always had the canvas top up, with doors and windows too (he said better MPG and less wind resistance). It had a radio also, and he seemed to be able to always find a parking spot.

With all of your testing and math, I retract my comment that I won't go on the maiden voyage of the rebuild......I absolutely want an invite now!

I would literally run me to I beams in the subfloor on the bottom of the hull I would do your 20 degree bevels fiberglass all that and then fiberglass the i-beams to the floor as much as you can and that should give you a lot of support you know Brian down into the stuff for a little bit when are you fiberglass your I beam send

What oil did you guys end up using on this ol ski

But If you want info with numbers , contact Mads on Sail Life , He'll point you engineers he knows. Also Andy on Boatworks Today is very good