I need to do that, good call

Thanks!

Sorry, this one is discontinued by rgt, being nearly 5 years old. It runs the old Gen 7 clone axles, which are notorious for snapping in the cvd joint. It uses Philips head screws throughout, has straight links and a basic design. The 2.2 tires would help cover up some of the design's shortcomings, but overall you'll want to be getting it at a steep discount for it to be worth buying. Just my first impression from photos, but I'd give this one a miss.

For 30 bucks? Lol yes, the value is there! Have fun with it!

Oh thank you very much! I appreciate you sharing your thoughts there, and I'm glad you're enjoying my videos 😊

Haha thanks, I'm glad you like it. Post on your local FB group. I've designed and published the file at no cost, so if you ask your local group of hobbyists I'm sure you'll find someone happy to help you out. Just send them the link to the Web page and they'll find the files and instructions there. Link is in the video Description .

Thank you! The TRX4 Blazer is the most capable. The FMS and Ascender are roughly similar in capability, but I think the Acender can be made more capable than the FMS - though the TRX4 will out-drive them both.

Thank you very much for that information it’s really helpful I love watching your videos keep them coming cuz your doing an amazing job

Thank you kindly

This is a reasonable approach and interpretation. However, I have quite a few similar and smaller scale cars to these, yet the Traxxas mini slash is the worst of the lot in handling, design and durability. They're comparatively terrible cars and I can't believe traxxas is still selling the brushed version at least. Their brushless version is a lot better with its improved center of gravity, but the same poor suspension and weak axles are problematic. At least the brushless ones won't catch on fire from a 2s lipo, which has happened with both of mine.

@@RCTNT Wow. I didnt know that was a problem w lipos and motors!, they need to replace that model. Can I ask you your opinion on the Letrax Prerunner?

@joeoge9347 it seems to be a problem with the esc, the motors will take it all day. If they've updated the esc since mine, good. They really should have done so! Haven't had a latrax anything, sorry. Traxxas is just so expensive in Australia I don't have the same access to them that USA based hobbyists do. I understand they're a budget model with bushings instead of bearings. Don't know they'd be a better choice than arrma or even some of the MJX models, depending on body type and performance needed. Parts are certainly available for traxxas - but are the stock parts what you really want from a model like that? If so, no problem, you're set. But if you'll be upgrading it, it may be worth considering other options.

@@RCTNT Im using an FMT24 I just got as my first Rc, I like it for my small course but it has stability issues, not sure I can get better at 1/24 so I did notice my friends $300 Traxxas E-Revo was alot more stable but too big for multiple racers. Thanks for the replies and look forward to future videos.

Well, you may find good value with these options over the Traxxas, they're popular for good reason: H16BM amzn.to/3KOIxHu H14BM amzn.to/3KKwew3 There's also the original, big name company who designed the platform from which so many have copied: LC Racing. I have their EMB-T and it's just an incredible machine. amzn.to/3Xulfi1 I don't know about their availability and you can probably buy two MJX vehicles for the price of one LC Racing model. In any case these are all worthy vehicles. If you like the mini erevo, these will impress.

This is not the case. Indeed they offered to pay me for this review as well as letting me keep the car. I declined payment because I wish to retain impartiality as much as possible. My condition for these reviews is that I'll be honest and that I'll share all my observations, good and bad. BG have always been good about this.

They were expecting this. It's the 4th car they've sent me and I'm honest every time. They'll sell cars from this video for sure - and I'm giving away my design for folks to print. The value is there, IMO. Great looking car, even if it doesn't perform particularly well. I do have a few tamiya videos already. There's an RC truck build here too that I really need to finish, but it's a TT 01 rather than one of their scale highway models. Lastly, that huina comment is seemingly quite random. I like their 1580 but not the dinky little bulldozer. I have videos for each of these. Cheers

It ain't stupid if it works 🙃

@@RCTNT It was brilliant :D

Haha it's a whole extra hobby really. No hurry!

Thanks Dan, it was a fun little project!

😎

That'd be about right, I reckon

Hi Chris, you want 'Under-tray main spacer.stl' in the middle, with 'Full Length Tray Bracket LHS/RHS.stl' on each side of the chassis. Use either 4mm ro 5mm spacers from the 'Spacers.stl' file to get the shocks aligned parallel to the chassis and to each other. I haven't made time to write instructions with pictures but I've heard back from several folks so far who have got it built successfully, so I know all the parts are there. It's a bit of a tinkerer's project, this one, but you do have everything you need in the zip file to get this thing sorted. You could try laying it all out on the bench before you assemble the rear end, to help give yourself an idea of how it'll go together. Good luck with it!

🙏👍

That would be forgivable if not for the premium price we pay over all other brands here. I don't mind that approach, within reason. It is a hobby after all. But the slash should not be hundreds more than other similar brands here. In the USA it's different, the car is cheaper. But those shocks at minimum need alu caps from factory, it's not good they're shipping a car not fit for purpose.

Stance is the easy recommendation. It's simply better. VRD Carbon even better - it's value is considerably higher than the Stance, and building it will teach you much about crawling and will help you with maintaining it longer term. Either of these and also the SCX10 Pro over the Redcat. Pretty as the model is, it's performance is already at the limit due to its design. I've made it better with my overhaul but the Stance will run rings around it.

I can't recall but I used what it came with, If it came with one. I'm pretty sure it was 14t, assuming 32p, but I'm sorry, I just don't recall.

Gotta crawl before you can walk

@RCTNT Rock hauler 😆

😎

It can be dealt with, but it comes with a budget rig.

Well it kinda is rock science, lol. But yes, good point. A little critical thinking goes a long way.

The extra value on the base camp makes it a worthy choice. I like the deadbolt body better too, but the base camp is the better vehicle, yes!

Oh nice! I assume you've done a bit to it so far? They're interesting little things, especially for the price!

@@RCTNT actually I haven't done a thing to it. It sits and looks good 🤦🏻😂.

Understandable. It is a great looking vehicle even in stock form, isn't it!

I'm building out a VRD CARBON at the moment.

@troysrcchannel5659 nice, enjoy!

Thank you. Takes time to build a channel and I'm only a few years in. We'll get there!

Sounds serious!

It is serious! I love all my little MN model cars😄 I go into it knowing I am going to rip everything out of it and replace it anyway so I really have no complaints about the cheap parts. I was genuinely overjoyed to see that you reviewed a MN model car on your channel. There are Legions of us fans who love these little MN and WPL vehicles even though a they are really cheap and barely hobby grade😃

Nice! Its the second MN model on my channel. I've also got a few wpl videos too. Good budget fun :)

Did not realize that you had reviewed a MN model car before. Have you ever reviewed the HB Toys R1001?

Nope, sorry

Worth it, IMO. The performance difference is significant!

That sounds interesting!

Lol I guess so yeah

Motor change is a good idea, yes. Nice one

Haha yes, I guess so!

I have been using Fusion360 but am self taught and still learning. Watching a tutorial is probably wise, actually. I'm sure there will be good ones on KZfaq here. Can't recommend any as I haven't used any yet!

Thanks and welcome 👍

Thank you! I'm glad to have been useful! Ok, with this Yikong, as with many others including Traxxas and co., when you have some breakages, the repairs are universal: servos, motor, ESC, radio issues, etc. Even wheels, tires, links and drive shafts are not usually an issue for after-market options, even for unusual configurations. Your main concern with this kind of car is if the axles break. Snap a shaft or joint, or the diff locker mechanism breaks somehow. You have a couple of choices in such a case: try to find a replacement part from the manufacturer (it'll be hit and miss with Yikong, but I suspect a message to your place of purchase would probably yield good results if it was while the model is still being made); or, you can jerry-rig a solution yourself without new parts. Here's an example of that second situation: I recently modified my Cross RC EMO X3, which is a big, heavy, 1/8 scale crawler. While I was refitting new axles and brass and power system etc., I damaged the diff lock engagement mechanism for the rear axle. It was nearly impossible not to damage it due to poor design (IMO). I don't want to buy a new part and it's not something I can make myself. So, I compromised; I usually want the front axle locked full-time on any crawler and it's the rear that I like to be able to unlock on the trails and on certain crawling obstacles. So, I moved the intact front shifter piece to the rear axle and then used a spacer to full-time lock that front diff. I disconnected the servo for the front locker, and then put the rear back together. All is well, I'm happy, and I don't miss that unlockable front. Winning! There are usually a few ways to deal with breakages. Again, it's the axles that will be the main problem if there's a breakage there. And honestly, in the worst case you can source different axles from another vehicle to address a serious failure. Sometimes I'll even mix and match axles on a rig even when they're not broken. It's one way to get an overdrive/underdrive setup when different axle gears aren't available. I did this exact thing for the RGT Challenger, actually. That also gave me a rear remotely lockable diff, it was a good upgrade! Hope that gives you a bit more insight to help you make an informed decision. The radio system and electronics in this car are good enough, though cheap, and I expect you'll be happy with it. Just don't expect a hugely capable crawler compared to other 1/10 vehicles (I've got this rig on the 6-problem course in a follow-up vid, linked in the Description, if you're curious about crawling performance). Cheers!

@@RCTNT Thank You Craig for the excellent guidance and the shot of inspiration, you've made smiles here! This will be the start of the journey into RC I'd say🤓

Nice one. Enjoy it! Do keep in mind it's a cheaper car, so things may not be up to the Traxxas or Axial standard. But that said, I think it will give you hours of enjoyment. I'd suggest a 2S battery, maybe a 2200mah up to 5000mah tops. Smaller is better for weight - having 2x 2500mah 2s batteries can be better than 1x 5000mah 2s due to the lower weight the vehicle needs to carry. Better center of gravity, better performance, less stress on the car. In any case, it's an impressive rig and the value is pretty much unbeatable. Enjoy!

Thank you 😊

Heh thank you. It's serious business, this RC testing!

I would like to get into the hobby more but for now I will get my fix via your great video. Also, nice pup.

No hurry and thank you 😊

Haha yeah my mother filmed the driving for this one while she was visiting. We thought it'd be fun - and it was! I used face tracking, experimentally, for the talking to the camera part with DJI's latest osmo gimbal camera. It was so, so bad. What you've watched here was stabilised manually afterwards. My goodness, it was a failure! The first (and last) time I use that feature!