Worth trying a slightly harder material which still has low friction properties as did notice the PTFE tube degrade over a few months

@@CoderTronics did u measure the weight? I am now using plastic lm8uu & printed block already save a lot of weight and silent. For your wear case, is it compressed or tube surface wear? Suggest adding 1.8steel rod if compressed is the issue or more tubes or switch Capricorn. Gonna try it myself, thanks

Thanks pretty simple and would have thought there would be other versions to be honest. Need to make another one as doesn't fit my new caliper, definitely room for improvement on old one but hope it helps.

Funny enough I did make a design with that but not uploaded it to Thingiverse, will see if I can dig it out as not used my printer in over 3 years

That tube contain silicone, i also use teflon bearing but i made it using ptfe rods.

@@wiradharma7030 I have tried it with PTFE solid rods as well and they performed ok for a month or so of fairly heavy use, but did deform over time from creepage, I think a better long term solution is Delrin or other harder plastic which still has a fairly low friction level.

It seemed a simple and easy way to calibrate and everyone who 3D prints probably has one of these generic calipers. Thanks and hope it brings you some good use.

I used it for awhile with solid PTFE rods inserted (4mm), but these slowly were warn down. I intended to try with Acrylic and Delrin rods as much harder, but printer has been in storage since 2018 so just not had the time. We have a house now so intended to get a workshop going again in the next year and will test them.

@@CoderTronics I made a version of this yesterday where the bearing are built into my x carriage (HEVO). I used 4mm PTFE tubing I had laying around. It slides a little snug but the steppers don't have an issue. I'm thinking at some point making a super cheap laser engraver. I think that this technique with some carbon fiber arrow shafts would make a decent axis. Appreciate you sharing this idea and look forward to some more testing. I'm subbing so I don't miss out.

@@333donutboy no worries, my printer is direct drive and quite a heavy head assembly, for a laser cutter if you can keep the head weight down it will probably work better, you will probably find the PTFE will wear eventual but can be pushed out and replaced potentially.

Thanks, there is definitely room for improvement looking back some of which is discussed in the 4th part of the website tutorial. I would like to revisit and do a new design based on a higher voltage and power system for charging batteries.

@@CoderTronics I am just building 100 AMPS OUT - 2-phase - 50 A pre phase MPPT, with BUCK topology, but I am only beginner, there is o lot of problems to solve if I need good tracking, good efficiency at 96 V OUT / 100 A, it is based on ESP32, but maybe I will need 2 ESPs, because there is MCPWM for phases, PWM for fans, WEB SERVER, MQTT server, dallas temps for fets and toroids, I think that ESP32 is slow at float math.

@@PavolFilek You could use fixed point that would help, depends on your update frequency and it doesn't necessarily need to be that fast but do need to consider step change size which could be variable. A sub processor could be used to handle the MPPT which can easily be done on a basic Arduino and this can be fed parameters needed to tune. You could also try and use more direct registry entry and less Of the API code, this will makes things faster as well see this example coder-tronics.com/c2000-programming-model-guide/

@@CoderTronics I am not circuit engineer, so my first problem is to make PCB for my protorype, software part will be next, I am now learning how to use KiCad or another SW to draw schemes and PCBs. Because in my prototype I have problem, e.g. freq. for PWM is 16000 Hz and phase_0 has 13 amps and phase_1 has 11 amps, and if I switch freq. to e.g. 24000 Hz, current is 10 / 14 AMPS. So I do not know if problem is at signal paths from ESP32 to IR2104, or problem is at fake IR2104, or problem is at deadtime for FETs, and also there is problem with reverse recovery charge and time at LO and HI FETs, simply I need a lot of knowledge to absorb fast.

@@PavolFilek ok so you have a working prototype with different current levels on the 2 phases. Likely causes are variations in the MOSFETs, signal path resistances etc and also the cooling of all those components. Placing the MOSFETs on a common heatsink might help to balance out pending on the design constraints of the board. You can start by measure the temperature of the MOSFETs as this may give some indication as to the imbalance.

Just a cylinder this then presses against the ball

@@ordnanceant2254 cool thx man

Yeah, there`s lots of variables -- `in and out`, real time `stations`, and the fact that there are so many `stations`.

That because there is no battery code or battery attached. If this was used with say a lead acid then you would want to step down to a higher voltage say 14-15V. For Lithium I would probably use a further SMPS allowing the voltage and current to be controlled further.

Thanks and hope it proves useful

No worries hope it proves useful and feel free to share any makes on Thingiverse

It's not filament they are PTFE rods, Acrylic rods would be more durable though. The diameter of the rods were 4mm

@@ordnanceant2254 it is inpossible to be 4mm. In 8mm hole not you can insert many of them. If it is PTFE roads, then 2.2mm.

@@user-rd3lj4gn4s www.thingiverse.com/thing:1739340

Hi, I used 0.1mm the main reason being the finer the layer height the better definition you will obtain in the thread pitch

For the ball and socket you can get the locking mechanism pretty tight but may take a few prints pending on how dialled in your printer is. For any bar pieces with adjoining balls print these horizontally which improves the layer strength. Ultimately I would print in ABS or PETG both require modifications to my current printer which is gathering dust at the moment!

Yep

It's better to use a petg for this.

Hi off hand I cannot remember but the website tutorial this video is linked to has a full description.

Hi Pemendra, yep you can visualize multiple signals I cannot remember the exact sequence as been a few years since I used this setup, as I remember you just add the variables you want and tweak the graphs. This other video I made shows 3 variables being graphed real-time kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d7xkfZymrN_Ne6M.html

А разве втулка выполненная из PLA будет скользить хуже?

If you do probably best to use a Delrin or Acrylic rod as the PTFE wore down after a few weeks of testing and also exhibited creepage. They should work much better on a Z axis as less pressure on 1 side compared to the X and Y, some rests of the testing are discussed in the comments of the Thingiverse link.

@@CoderTronics aww those are impossible to find here! not to metnion i'm worry they'll bend under my heavy Y carriage and X carriage

Hi, I think it was 0.3mm it does say on the thingiverse link in description.

It does lock into place but depending on how much force you put on the joint it will move eventually.

Hi, the models that are linked to the slider are for 4mm PTFE rod. I have other models on Thingiverse which use a different size PTFE tubing.

Just a regular PLA cannot remember the exact manufacturer, but I never buy premium material.

Hi, it is not a standard metric/imperial thread. I designed ball and socket first then built a suitable sized thread around that.

Would you mind if I have your inventor files? Thanks. Please email me at [email protected]