So what was the clunking problem on your magnum because I’m having the same issue???

Title is 2001 forester….

Does it work with 220v?

I been working on a pro level. Don’t drag a line but push it from yourself doing a slight zigzag motion having metal go fed but not yellow cause you’ll burn! Vertical welding is way harder but the ceilings are for the pros only!😂

Thank you good job 👍

Informative and funny. Great video, man. You should moonlight as a comedian 😂

Thank you sir I was gonna do rotors and pads but rotors are in good shape

What year is that engine

Was it a conversion from a manual obs?

Did you take rubber pieces from rear shock and adjuster

JFC, selling this POS. Thanks for the info

I know u was ready to say come on u mother Ffffffffkerrrr come off!!!! If the camera wasn't on 😂😂😂😂😂

This tank and the tank after this both had internal leaks. I am back to an oem plastic tank now

What jack points u use on the truck

Would there be room for a sight glass with the air box installed

How many miles on it is it wore out or does it have life

Dexcool(left over coolant residue)

Wow111 Perfect!!! Many who do repair videos never show part numbers or sometimes do Not say the name of the replaced part. My 2005 Chrysler Grand Voyager has a pin hole leak coming from the heater core restrictor ....THANK YOU for showing a part number!!!. Hopefully they ship to South Korea.....LIKED and SUBSCRIBED to an excellent D.I.Y. video!!!

Did the car also have a binking recirculation air light.

I did all this on my 05 trailblazer 4 years ago….already had to replace the sway bar end links, ball joints and the tie rod ends again…and one wheel bearing assembly because the battery was leaking acid and screwed a bunch of stuff up from corrosion….i hope it’s not the brand being shite anymore…I used Detroit axle as the brand…can’t afford moog lol….talk about a pita…working on trying to get the passenger side cv shaft out…

I totally lost where we where at 😂

Looks very good ! Do you think it can also help with temperature dissipation? Have you done a road thest so the coolant will get boiled to check for any leaks?

BEWARE: The company does not sell parts or support items not purchased through their official channels. "After reviewing your order details, it appears that the purchase was not made through our official store. Unfortunately, we can only provide after-sale support for products purchased directly from our official YesWelder stores." ~Yeswelder support

Great video! I would add clear instructions for timing the chain properly. Top dead center, during the compression stroke of cylinder #1, is very important, then align all the valve sprockets in that position.

As red as that fluid is on the ground I but the converter took a shit

BEWARE: YesWelder will not service or support anything not purchased through their official YesWelder stores. If you need a part and don't have an approved purchase invoice, they will not support it. No parts are available on their website. THESE ARE DISPOSABLE UNITS.

Oh Snap! Looks like not the first time those bolts have been out. Uuuuuuuuuuh? Im puurdy certain those blue met driveshaft flange bolts are not hardened fasteners.😬😬 looks like grade “regular ass bolts” from the tool makers keepfill bins. Tho all things considered(dodge) they most likely exceed oem spec. Overall nice look at th banged knuckles involved! Cheers, B

Did you install the paper gasket that goes between the oil pump and the bearing cap?

work around is amazing

Great video, thank you so much. One note don't you have to lube the oring before you install the pipe back in? If you don't isn't there a chance it roll off.

Wayyy easier dropping the gas tank.

The music is annoying

Thanks buddy. I got one question hopefully you can help me out. I got a 96 ford explorer 4.0L when it’s in park it’s runs fine but as soon as I put it in drive it make a rattle in the engine. I believe it’s a has something to do with the timing chain.

How’d the alignment go after you removed them?

Did you replace the subs frame bolts when you took out your rear subframe ?

Great video!

Is this like a 1983?

I fixed the code p0420 "catalytic converter below efficiency threshold" on a 2002 ulev honda. (Insight) .... bow getting a p1420 "NOx Catalyzer performance" so guess this is second cat. It also has two cats and three o2 sensors

How convenient timing, this is my exact truck and exact problem. Thank you for being the first one and making a video on this.

TRAVERSE

Okay, as a fellow newb, mind if I correct something? Switching negative and positive does /not/ change the current from DC to AC. The Flux 135 Pro is DC only, there is no AC mode. What it does accomplish is it changes whether your electrode (the bit you're holding as you weld) is negative or positive. This, it turns out, matters a whole lot more than you'd think. Flux Core is /generally/ DCEN, meaning Direct Current, Electrode Negative. MIG on a DC-only machine (AC, I don't know about) is /generally/ DCEP, meaning Direct Current, Electrode Positive. TIG is DCEN, Stick is DCEP. Why does this matter? Practically, if you run flux core that's made to be DCEN in DCEP mode (the packaging will tell you, I assume there are exceptions), you're going to get a lot more spatter and, presumably, get a worse weld. Why? ..yeah, again, I'm a newbie figuring this stuff out, but from what I can gather, you don't get equal amounts of heat on both sides of the arc (like, 70% vs 30%). The positive side tends to burn hotter than the negative side -- which makes sense, MIG being solid wire would probably take more heat to weld than a hollow tube of the same diameter, right? Since most videos explaining just say running flux core in DCEP-mode makes for spattery unpleasantness, I'm assuming that's because you're getting the flux stuff to combust faster or earlier than designed due to the excess heat. It also means you're getting less penetration where you want it. (And, I would imagine, if my reasoning on the increased spatter holds true, it also implies that the self-generating shielding gas isn't doing as good of a job as a result, but that's pure theory. Not everything that makes sense in my head has any bearing on reality. :P) So's my understanding, anyway. I haven't seen any flux core machines that boast AC flux core. I'm not real sure why. What little I do know is that AC is what you need for welding aluminum, something about the cycling polarity removing oxides or some such. But that's a whole other machine, using a whole other process, used for a whole other operation -- I haven't even plugged my Flux 135 Pro in yet. :P Just wanted to see someone else set it up first. :P Would love it if I never have my wire go all rats nest-y on me, but for today I'd settle for it not happening my first time. Let me feel like I'm not utterly out of my league, let the snags come a little later. Anyway, thanks for the video. ^.^ And no worries for getting bits wrong -- and no worries if someone corrects me, either. To get good at something, you first have to be willing to suck at it. Same for knowledge, 'cause for all that I know today, there was a time I didn't. And you plain can't progress in any endeavor if you psych yourself out from ever trying. (That's as much to me as you. :P Time to go set up mine so I can, hopefully, give a whirl tomorrow.)

Doing my heads today and found this video. Thanks for the help!

All that blue silicone, and a that nice hot air intake and cone filter remind me of being 18 with my first car😅. On another note why I’m even here watching is the timing belt broke on my wife’s manual 5 speed 02 neon😬. Yea.. I know..worst case scenario…interference engine with a 10 percent chance that the valves are ok (even less being she didn’t know and tryed to start it after it broke on the highway at 50mph. So I’ve looked at the pistons and valves with a articulating bore scope, and they appear untouched. Not a mark on anything. I’m attempting to just throw a timing belt on it and cross my fingers🤞🤞. I realize the chances are slim everything will be fine in the short or long run😅, being that there’s no damage if by chance a valve or 2 kissed the piston (it’s possible to do without marks I would think) it will most likely start up and run just as it did before.. but then there’s possible fatigue of the valve stem or stems from being bent back into place a little when it starts.. The hard part here is I’m trying to figure out how I’m going to put the cam and crank back into time because there’s no telling where there at right now. Obviously I’m going to turn both the cam and crank and try to avoid them having a blind date (valves hate blind dates). I have an idea of how I’m going to do this but I’m no professional 😅. But I know I’m not the only one who has done this.. I just wish I could talk to someone who has. The question is how do you time an interference engine that’s out of time by who knows how much, with the head on and the rockers bolted down.. O and this things got 290,000 miles so this is a last Hail Mary on a 400$ car that’s lasted us many many years so I’m not willing to throw any machine work into it or a replacement head..(thought about a junkyard hard though). All that long story said, great video here thumbs 👍🏼. I’ll probably watch it many times 😂

Great work, keep on wrenching !!🤘🇸🇪💚🇺🇸

@GibsonGarage HAPPY FRIDAY! I’m about to plunge into the abyss in tackling this technical job and wanna pick your brain; I obviously have a 2003 Dodge Neon 2.0 SXT and was advised of ‘doing the timing’. Is there any special piece of equipment.. or specific tool I’ll need (other than the standard hand tools) that I’ll need to SET THE TIMING so to speak? If so, what is the tool and do I need a tutorial on how to use it? And, if so.. is this something I can get on loan from say, Autozone, Advance Auto Parts or O’Reilly?.. and, if not.. what’s the cost for said special tool or equipment? I’m on a timeline to go pick up a timing belt at Autozone by 3pm on discount (MDT / Denver, CO) so any advice/info you have would be of great value. 😎👍🏼

where did you place the jack stands?

You cant weld aluminum with that machine only carbon an stainless steel an your gas is to high

The Chrysler would be better with the 5.7 HEMI, I truly enjoy mine.

Flaming river site now says it fits 88 - 98 Chevy OBS. The difference is in 93 GM uses 3 bolts to mount the idler arm to the frame with a completely different mounting flange. 88-92 only uses 2 bolts. My OBS is a 93 so I just added material to both side of the flange, reshaped and drilled the appropriate mounting holes. I let Flaming river know about the problem, sent a few photos. I offered mail them my CAD [cardboard assisted design] cut outs and was told they room full of engineers that will handle it, thanks for offer. The Flaming river power rack and pinion is a night and day difference over the ARG 14:1 steering box. The FR unit really woke up the Ridetech coilover suspension. Plus I can steer the truck at low speeds, even under braking. If want to run 7-8 degrees of caster that can be a problem.

Taking out the headlight was a very good idea. There was all kinds of room and removing the headlight wasn't all that hard to do.