The original fairlead in this video broke so I built a much stronger one the second time around. It mimics the Wallenstein FX85 winch upper fairlead that pivots around.

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y ok Thanks

Thank you, I merely put my own spin on an already proven design 👍

Thank you!

Mine are old used brake pads. You can purchase sheets of the friction material off McMaster Carr and epoxy them to your plate or bolt them with brass screws.

Thank you!

Thank you, I'm glad it was helpful!

Thank you for that. :)

#60 chain.

No worries, it's a #60 chain.

I have receipts from what I've purchased, but haven't compiled them all yet. The bottom triple-sprocket configuration is because I messed up while building it and it ran in the reverse direction than what I had intended it to. I installed the plate that my drum-shaft goes through backwards. So the triple-sprocket configuration provided a simple way to fix my screw-up rather than cut off a lot of welds and re-install the plate correctly.

Thank you, yes I considered it and no doubt it would work. It has been one of those "If it isn't broke, don't fix it" things. :)

Check out my other video that shows it in more detail kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qNx6q9FpubuqqIE.htmlsi=JuK6Ml0H-DaHc1XL

I see your video but I not shore is this car tiles or lamellae cut

@@stjepanz07 I'm sorry, are asking about the clutch friction plates? These are brake pads from an electric motor brake. You could use an old clutch out of a car or brake pads from a car as well. 👍

For my chain drive, the drive sprocket is now 11-tooth, driven is 60-tooth. #60 chain.

Hello, yes the clutch does slip some but transfers enough power to work well for what I use it for. If I get too large of load, the clutch will slip instead of overloading my tractor and tipping it over.

No I have not had any break. They're some of the nicer nocks I've seen.

@user-nu9xo4ye7y I think I'm gonna roll with them for my new arrow setup. I don't trust nocturnals for anything over 400+ grains. I hate to have one blowup behind a 500-600gr arrow. Thanks for the reply.

Thank you, I'm quite pleased with how it works. I priced swedged cable when I bought mine but couldn't justify the increase. I haven't had any issues caused by the cable though I routinely unspool my drum and rewind it using the dead weight of the tractor as a load to keep things from getting unruly on the spool.

Thank you! While building the frame, I welded the cross-plate which captures the shaft on backwards and did not notice it until much later in the build. Therefore I added 2 idlers in order to reverse the rotation of the driven sprocket in order to wrap the cable on the drum the correct way.

Ahh yes a bit more! I still have some of that left over too!

Thank you!

That's exactly what I built it and use it for. It works great for me.

Engine HP is 43hp, I believe the PTO HP is 34hp.

That is definitely another way to do it and I've seen them. Browsing through multiple build threads across various forums show that type of design still used by folks. It's simple and effective. I was trying to build something that would not only bring the logs to my tractor, but also allow me to then take the logs to my sawmill/firewood area for further processing without a bunch of additional steps added. A self-contained unit on its own small trailer just doesn't make sense for my needs as I would constantly be moving it around. With my setup I simply back up within 300' of what I'm looking to pull, drop the winch down so it bites in the ground and proceed with choking the log. I'm all for people building what they want to use it how they want. This is just what I came up with to use in my context and so far it has exceeded my expectations.

Thank you! I believe we've met, if you are the maker of Habitat Hooks, that is. My wife, kids and I drove up and met you at your workplace this last winter and I bought one of your steel hooks. Small world! If you have questions I'd be glad to help answer them!

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y yep, that be me. Seen your habitat work and thought, "this guy has got to already have a hook". I'm sure I'll reach out. Thanks

Thank you and thanks for watching!

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y I would like to have one like that

If you search for "yarding block" you'll find what you need. I bought a few of the 3 ton blocks which are 4" sheaves. I gutted the sheave and built a swiveling mount for it. Let me know if you want more information on it and I'll make another video for you. :)

Check out my channel and you'll see a detailed video of just that. :)

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y that's terrific, I'll have a look!

Thank you, I'm no welder but I try.

Thank you!

Did you buy the track as well? The saw frame and carriage isn't bad to assemble but you definitely want to have help when bolting it all together. It seems to be a very rigid frame with nice lift/lower adjustments via the ACME threaded rods. It would be nice to have electric raise/lower on mine. I may add that some day. I'll check out your channel and see what you've got going on. We are getting into raising some cattle as well. Thanks for the comment!

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y I have welders and big metal band saw and I think most of the equipment and tools but the plans I got are sketchy so just looking for other ways of building it. I will defiantly post the build. Keep InTouch may have a few questions, thanks.

I was going to built the track while I waited for the saw frame and carriage but I'm glad I waited to have those assembled first so I could verify some measurements. It's not difficult, it's just just like anything else. It takes time. Good luck with your build I'll be looking forward to seeing it.

Definitely worth the time/effort investment!

Thanks James!

Thanks, and it adds to the number of uses for my tractor!

Check out the other video on my channel and it shows the clutch in detail. Thanks!

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y I just saw it, I'm going to use a screw-on disc brake pad of the model you used, I didn't find anything here, thanks.

Thank you!

I'm in the United State of America.

You are American very good. More technology and rich country thanks. I am Sri Lankan and my frofitional terner, welding also training my apprentice period. More then 20 years working meddle East Gmc motors co. Meinternce mechanic and repair benwill auto jack that is American co. More interesting that pioriod now 69 years and retired. Thanks for your future. GOD BLESS FOR YOU.

@@georgehettiarachchi6346 you have many years of experience! Thank you for your comment, may God bless you!

Hi Toni, I agree that 7/16 cable is overkill. I chose it as a happy medium between being too strong and just strong enough for what I felt to be safe. I am going to look into the winches you referenced there in Sweden. Thank you!

Hi Charles, I have not had an issue with the front end of the tractor coming off the ground. I believe this is partially due to my clutch not being able to transmit all available power through the winch at this time. It transfers plenty of power to pull the size of logs I've been dealing with but slips when the butt of the log snags on something when winching. In the other video I made further breaking the winch down, you can see my clutch wear is not even across the friction pads. As it breaks in more, I expect it to work better. It has been getting smoother as time goes on. As far as safety goes, the breaking strength of the cable I purchased is 10.22 tons, or 20,440lbs. That is a 2:1 rating over what I winch is theoretically capable of on a first wrap line pull at rated HP (tractor running 2700rpm and PTO running 540rpm). I have not encountered a scenario yet to where I needed to run the tractor over 1500rpm and certainly have not pulled a log with only one wrap on the drum so I am operating my winch way below anything capable of applying that much tension to the cable. When I exceed what my clutch can hold, it's usually due to my own error and simply taking more time to remedy it allows the winch to operate smoothly. I don't just throw more power at it and try again. I've found that 1500rpm tractor engine speed seems to be the sweet spot for this winch. If it can't handle the pull then I need to rethink things. It takes more time but I'm in no hurry. I could go further into providing figures for SWL considerations and my specific context of operation but I can say I feel safe enough operating the winch as is or I would not be doing so. I do have plans to build a mechanism that allows me to operate the winch at a distance that may be considered safe by others, but at this point in time I have not done so. The injuries your friend sustained are unfortunate and the context of his injuries and the details surrounding the incident may have or may not relate to what I'm doing other than the tool in use. I have a family and although this type of work is inherently dangerous, I do it with them constantly on my mind. Thank you for your concern! :)

Thank you!