Thank you, but it's not really my design. I just based it off a commercially available one. 🙂

My thoughts exactly, thank you for the comment!

Thank you. I agree, it is an invaluable tool for snags. I don't really even try to put them where I want if they're leaning towards being snagged when I'm clear cutting for deer food plots. Just let them get hung up and winch them off the stump from 100' away.

Thank you, I hope so!

Thanks! I've come across your builds a time or two as well in search of builds. :D

Thank you, just have to put your mind to it and make it happen! :)

I couldn't agree more! Thank you!

Thank you for that Dave, I really appreciate it. I wish I really knew what I am doing with a welder, I'm only good enough to make some parts stick.

Well stay tuned this week I will be posting a more in-depth video of how things are put together.

Thanks! I'm sure there are better, more efficient designs out there but this is simple and effective for my use.

Thank you, I merely put my own spin on an already proven design 👍

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you and check back here this weekend as I'm going to be making another video showing the individual parts, how they go together and a few things I did wrong :)

@B Awesome! Will do. I just subscribed. Thanks!

Thank you! Hoping once the weather clears up a bit to do another video. 🙂

Thank you, I'm no welder but I try.

Thank you!

Thank you, there's always a few out there. I mean, I get it, but if some people had their way there would be no way to operate something like this. Just have to use your noggin, eyeballs and ears!

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thank you Jonny. Used ones around here are $2500USD on up in decent condition. New they are $6000USD on up around this size.

​@@user-nu9xo4ye7y ohh i am from Salzburg here a good 6.5 ton costs 3000$ new here everyone youses them even without 4 x4 tractors i like to compare different styles of forrestwork in diffrent countrys

Thank you, it is based on a robust design that's been made for years by Farmi. I believe Norse makes this design as well. I am by no means responsible for this design that's for sure. 🙂

Thanks James!

I have plans to add another PTO on/off switch back there so I can kill the PTO if need be. Thanks for the suggestion!

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Yes, they can absolutely still run strong with that many hours on them if they were maintained properly. I bought mine with 27XX hours on it and it was tired then from lack of maintenance/care. The hydraulic pump still whines on cold start, the hydrostat pump needs changed and the injectors and pump need overhauled. I'm at a point where I could use another tractor on the farm and if that happened I could afford to have this one down for awhile but not until then, unfortunately. She's been a good tractor to us though!

I just purchased a 254 Massey Ferguson. Wonder if you might share some plans for your clutch setup seems like a nice setup, thanks.

I'll have to make another video for you. All of the parts I ordered from McMaster Carr. There really is nothing proprietary on it.

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y gotcha and thanks for your reply.

Thank you for that. :)

There are remote operated winches available using hydraulics to engage the clutch. I like to have my hands on the winch so I can feel the winch and be close enough to hear the tractor running. Helps me to feel how much it is loaded up and hear if anything may be coming apart.

Thank you!

Hi Toni, I agree that 7/16 cable is overkill. I chose it as a happy medium between being too strong and just strong enough for what I felt to be safe. I am going to look into the winches you referenced there in Sweden. Thank you!

Awesome, thank you! I've made a few upgrades already to make it even more useful.

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y approximately how much $ do you have invested? It looks totally overbuilt, I’m impressed!!

@@davekana8388 I'll have to tally things up. I'm guessing less than $1k. Edited: I meant to type $2k. Just running things through my head I'm guessing $1700-$1800 not including welding and grinding supplies and other misc tools I purchased for the build.

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y should last you till your off the planet, totally rebuildable too!👍 Thanks, Dave!

One of the best parts about building something yourself is finding its shortcomings and making it better. It will never be a grand piano but I'm going to make every effort to come close 🙂

That's a great idea, thanks!

That is certainly an option. I might do something like that in the future but for now I like being right there so I can see what all is going on.

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y patent that idea . Take it off you tube before Chinese take idea sell at harbor freight etc

@@MitzvosGolem1 well this isn't an original idea that's for sure. I based mine off of other winches already on the market.

It's definitely not a bad idea. 👍

Hello, yes the clutch does slip some but transfers enough power to work well for what I use it for. If I get too large of load, the clutch will slip instead of overloading my tractor and tipping it over.

Thank you! You nailed it. My upper block pivot pin broke a few pulls after this video. It has been rebuilt with a much heavier design and has been bulletproof since. Yes the engagement mechanism needs changed to something safer as well. I haven't gotten around to it yet. 👍

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y Excellent

The limiting factor with this setup is the clutch holding torque. The tractor HP and the gear reduction of the winch is more than enough to pull the tractor over. Rough calculations say around 10,000lbs pulling power for the first cable wrap on the winch. I plan on installing another PTO switch on the back of the tractor that I can hit to disable it, but I do like the idea of a deadman either in replacement of or in addition to the PTO switch. Thank you for getting my gears turning on that!

Thank you John, God Bless you!

Hi Charles, I have not had an issue with the front end of the tractor coming off the ground. I believe this is partially due to my clutch not being able to transmit all available power through the winch at this time. It transfers plenty of power to pull the size of logs I've been dealing with but slips when the butt of the log snags on something when winching. In the other video I made further breaking the winch down, you can see my clutch wear is not even across the friction pads. As it breaks in more, I expect it to work better. It has been getting smoother as time goes on. As far as safety goes, the breaking strength of the cable I purchased is 10.22 tons, or 20,440lbs. That is a 2:1 rating over what I winch is theoretically capable of on a first wrap line pull at rated HP (tractor running 2700rpm and PTO running 540rpm). I have not encountered a scenario yet to where I needed to run the tractor over 1500rpm and certainly have not pulled a log with only one wrap on the drum so I am operating my winch way below anything capable of applying that much tension to the cable. When I exceed what my clutch can hold, it's usually due to my own error and simply taking more time to remedy it allows the winch to operate smoothly. I don't just throw more power at it and try again. I've found that 1500rpm tractor engine speed seems to be the sweet spot for this winch. If it can't handle the pull then I need to rethink things. It takes more time but I'm in no hurry. I could go further into providing figures for SWL considerations and my specific context of operation but I can say I feel safe enough operating the winch as is or I would not be doing so. I do have plans to build a mechanism that allows me to operate the winch at a distance that may be considered safe by others, but at this point in time I have not done so. The injuries your friend sustained are unfortunate and the context of his injuries and the details surrounding the incident may have or may not relate to what I'm doing other than the tool in use. I have a family and although this type of work is inherently dangerous, I do it with them constantly on my mind. Thank you for your concern! :)

Hi there John, thanks for watching!

I nearly bought a 10t winch and did just that, I just don't like how you have to overdrive those winches to get the speeds I wanted. I've seen others build them and they flat out work though!

Thanks!

Thank you, I have since replaced the drive sprocket to slow it down a bit. It is definitely fast!

Check out the other video on my channel and it shows the clutch in detail. Thanks!

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y I just saw it, I'm going to use a screw-on disc brake pad of the model you used, I didn't find anything here, thanks.

A couple of ways actually. First, I can add or remove hardened washers in the thrust bearing stack between the ACME nut and the winch drum. That's a bit of trial and error, but it's still a method if needed. Second, my go-to adjustment is the collar that my engagement lever is welded to has set screws in it that lock it onto the ACME nut. It's a 6-flat nut that I machined 12 flats into so I can loosen those set screws, rotate my handle around to another set of flats on the ACME nut and tighten it back down. I'll be sure to include that in my next video.

Yes I have some video I will be editing and posting next week to show the assembly.

Hi Rick, I don't use the cable once the logs are at the winch. Since this video, I have added chain grab hooks to the winch and transfer my chokers to the hooks. I didn't build my winch to hold a load like that.

@B not a problem. Thanks for getting back. I still think overall you did a good job with it. Would like to see your next update on it.

For my chain drive, the drive sprocket is now 11-tooth, driven is 60-tooth. #60 chain.

Check out my other video that shows it in more detail kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qNx6q9FpubuqqIE.htmlsi=JuK6Ml0H-DaHc1XL

I see your video but I not shore is this car tiles or lamellae cut

@@stjepanz07 I'm sorry, are asking about the clutch friction plates? These are brake pads from an electric motor brake. You could use an old clutch out of a car or brake pads from a car as well. 👍

Check out my channel and you'll see a detailed video of just that. :)

@@user-nu9xo4ye7y that's terrific, I'll have a look!

With a tractor-mounted winch, the logs come to the tractor. An ATV has to go to the logs unless using a winch on the ATV, but they're extremely limited in speed and capacity. They are smaller trees but it will easily skid out 3 at a time.

Engine HP is 43hp, I believe the PTO HP is 34hp.

Yes, the friction plates are bolted to the 60-tooth driven sprocket and spin any time the PTO shaft is engaged. The nut squeezes the drum against the spinning friction plates consequently resulting in torque being applied to the drum. I need to do a follow-up video as some things have changed since I made this video. :)

Great job, I would also be very interested to see the construction of your clutch. I intend to make the same type of winch but with belts instead of chains, what do you think?

I thought about using belts as the clutch mechanism as well. There are a few builds across the internet that use a moving idler pulley to tighten drive belts instead of using a clutch. They seem to work fine, but I don't think it provides as smooth of power delivery as they are more of a grab and go clutch rather than a slip and grip that the friction style clutch provides. Maybe it will work fine, I haven't ever seen one in operation other than online. You should build one and find out :)

Thanks, and it adds to the number of uses for my tractor!