I just wonder where are you located??? To see if could repair my speaker Joel flip 3 asap
@garito1754 күн бұрын
Yo quiero saber donde puedo comprar esa parte que se dañó al speaker y cómo se llama esa parte que se dañó???
@ROGUPA9 күн бұрын
Mr. I have the HT-R550, its displays turns off after a few minutes. I am not a certified technician, nevertheless I found out when the Cirrus Logic IC CS42518-CQZ got heat the displays fails... Applying circuit board cleaner the propelent cools it down and the display turns back on AGAIN for a moment... At this point I have the circuit diagrams and I already ordered a replacement chip JUST IN CASE the IC is damaged. I suspect it is not and MAYBE a surrounding capacitor is. I'll try to check the capacitors... in the meantime, I'll appreciate any comment regarding this issue. Greetings, from MX Rodrigo
@gixerags75013 күн бұрын
That cable stripper looks next level shit !!! Nice.
@thatampguy16 күн бұрын
Brilliant use of that flux pen!did any of the silicon grease go over the wiper or track?
@NearFarMedia16 күн бұрын
I used a plastic safe white lithium grease and yep, put it thinly on the wiper and track, like the manufacturer did originally. That way the track will be lubricated to reduce wear. As a side note, I don't think it matters for trimpots, but avoid using silicone grease in switches, apparently any arcing in the switch can slowly turn the silicon in the silicone grease into silicon carbide which is an insulator and very(!) hard and abrasive....
@mikemoran543919 күн бұрын
I just bought one of these and it works great, but i want to preserve it. Would you happen to have a list of all the caps you replaced (new ones)?
@mikemoran543919 күн бұрын
Nevermind! I just read the description! Haha
@luisguadalupe755519 күн бұрын
What's grease to you recommend using?
@NearFarMedia19 күн бұрын
A plastic safe grease, white lithium grease is good.
@fivestar222723 күн бұрын
To open the shell you must remove the 2 rubber wall hang plugs and the 2 raised stand offs (feet) to expose the 4 screws. Use your fingernails to pry open both sides (left & right short ends) then pry the bottom apart (thinner edge opposite of the antennas). If you want to remove the board there are 2 screws (near lights and wan port) and 2 antenna mounts to remove.
@ismaelmorin822125 күн бұрын
Hola..desde celaya GTO.. México..es normal que los receivers onkio..se calienten en encendido.. gracias..IMG
@German_byte25 күн бұрын
There’s no isolation between input and output is there. Not that there’s a 240 volt input.
@PlanetRuncorn25 күн бұрын
when i turn mine on the battery voltage reads 7.1v even though its a new battery . dont know if this makes a difference , and a 470uf cap reads 66470uf ??? any ideas why
@yakup342926 күн бұрын
Hello, is it possible to connect this tester to a PC?
@uglahhmane29 күн бұрын
Ive juat gotta say I would not ever pump that cleaner that hard. High risk.
@NearFarMedia29 күн бұрын
If a bit of string on the end of a bit of plastic can scratch your fiber, you need to purchase better fibers. Nearly 10 years in the game and I have yet to scratch or damage a single fiber.
@uglahhmane29 күн бұрын
@NearFarMedia Tell that to Raytheon or Northrop Grumman. Licensed avionics technician. Just giving my 2 cents. QC at any airline would have a heart attack if they saw that. Maybe just ignorance on our end, but we are trained to clean with great delicacy when you're dealing with extremely expensive fiber that cannot be repaired.
@darukun4179Ай бұрын
really really nice. next time try to put some reverb on that 'fuull bridge rectifieerr'
@marcelolopes1347Ай бұрын
Do you know any replacements for the rotary switches?
@consultordegenteplinioeng9230Ай бұрын
Thanks from Brasil!!
@magatsu82Ай бұрын
Thank you so much for this!
@SwitchingPowerАй бұрын
I just relapsed the battery in the same machine with "Varta 2/V150H" that is a drop in replacement that is still in stock at RS Components
@Traumi99Ай бұрын
i actually have an tds 644b with 684 board(the original board has been take a shower on capsfluid and drop the magic smoke) i change it his board and the caps in new boar, but still not working (only turn on and off every second) maybe need to check power supply too
@marcelojordao6602Ай бұрын
ola !! tudo bem? uma pergunta, voce consegue detectar o efeito early? grato um abraço!
@absurdengineeringАй бұрын
Would you be able to share what connectors are you using (mfg/series) and what particular crimper? I’ve been thinking about getting Japanese crimpers for some common contacts.
@absurdengineeringАй бұрын
It is possible to buy bulk white toner and fill up one’s own old cartridge. For front panels I’ve replaced the Y cartridge with white, getting CMWK capability. The cartridges can be reordered to get good coverage of white on black etc. It just needs some small changes to the postscript file sent to the printer. Why postscript? So you can fully control what’s drawn with what color. Otherwise the Adobe+Windows color management messes it up.
@absurdengineeringАй бұрын
Free alternatives: For drawing - Inkscape. For public mechanical cad (2D and 3D) - OnShape.
@DenKloge1Ай бұрын
Okay fint nok. Alle kan skille en computer ad og sætte sin finger på hardwaren og sige en hel masse kloge ord om det.
@rico5870Ай бұрын
Hi mate! thanks for the video! Just a question, where did you get the PSU schematic? Im struggling for a while to find PSU schematic for TDS380 and 420A. Gday
@ericpilboue3276Ай бұрын
J'adore, je suis pas au niveau pour en avoir besoin maintenant. Ce que j'aime le plus c'est la somme de travail et les progrès accessibles aux amateurs, fini les boites en pcb, les circuits en l'air, etc. Very professional work. I have seen many power meter on ebay without sensor, so at this time i play with ad8307 and analog voltmeter. Thank for sharing your knowledge
@SuperSergio5555Ай бұрын
hi, can you replace it with a usb-c instead?
@Willow1wАй бұрын
I took apart mine and looks like now they put in there a controller in a SOP package, SMD leds and passives. No power LED. But solder joints are very bad, there is barely any solder, you can see bare copper pads. Also this thing is USB1.1! Max rate 12 Mbit/s. Shameful!
@johnbaldwin61132 ай бұрын
I actually built a Super80 many years ago. Eventually upgraded to CPC464 in '85.... The only item I have of that machine, is the manual... I still use it... Of course, the Amstrad, is now emulated.... and I still use it now and then when I feel nostalgic... Good memories... Thanks for the video!!
@Wil_Bloodworth2 ай бұрын
You seem to skip over the amplitude settings. In fact, you go from shoving a board back in the machine straight to showing measurements without showing us what you did to get there. The % distortion is variable with amplitude so are you measuring distortion at 3V?... because no one has a clue since you didn't show any of that.
@personalPickle2 ай бұрын
Nice work guys, really thorough teardown.
@tonypointer70262 ай бұрын
Wow and here it thought it was axreal repair
@NearFarMedia2 ай бұрын
Read the video title again, slowly this time.
@Giovanni28622 ай бұрын
What software did you use to design the labels?
@rodschaffter2 ай бұрын
Great tutorial!! My edge brush stopped working. I took it apart and cleaned out some cat hair that had worked into the gears, and it's working great. Thanx!!
@matthyne43792 ай бұрын
Can you show us how you make these - eg how you get the measurements so accurate in the design software
@absurdengineeringАй бұрын
I’ve made some too - just used digital calipers and a bit of mechanical common sense.
@matthyne43792 ай бұрын
I really want to know where you get your flux from ?
@NearFarMedia2 ай бұрын
I just use Hakko brand rosin flux, sometimes straight from the bottle using the brush like nail polish, or in a Hakko flux pen.
@anhnguyen-fq2lh2 ай бұрын
How is about it schematic diagram ?
@josephnavarro36202 ай бұрын
So much nicotine on that I'm assuming you got it at an estate sale 😂😂😂
@havasue50822 ай бұрын
thanks for the video, but I need replacement side brush gears. The screw broke off so I need to relace the gear that holds the screw for the side brush.. Do you know if they sell replacement parts ?
@rosi61442 ай бұрын
Hi, i want to buy this unit to replace bad LED's on TV backlight LED strips. Do you still have the unit? If so, is it still working good? Are you still satisfied with it? Hope to hear from you soon. Many thanks in advance
@NearFarMedia2 ай бұрын
Yep, I still have it and it works great. 🙂
@rosi61442 ай бұрын
@@NearFarMedia many thanks for you're reply
@asianking1872 ай бұрын
This wasnt genuine
@patmx52 ай бұрын
Keep an eye out for an HP 6515A power supply - 0~1500 Vdc @ 5 mA - great for reforming and leakage testing of higher voltage electrolytics. I use mine for this regularly - use bench meters to monitor voltage & current, set the PS output to the cap's rated voltage and let it rip.
@NearFarMedia2 ай бұрын
Thanks for the suggestion! I'll keep an eye out for one. 🙂
@patmx52 ай бұрын
@@NearFarMedia I also have the little 10 watters (6212, 14, 16 & 18As) that I use for lower voltage caps. The 6212A goes up to 100 V. If you look for that series, make sure you get the even-numbered ones - they are CV/CC - the odd ones (6211, 13, 15 & 17) are only CV.
@av76832 ай бұрын
Great teardown, big thanks for it.
@MarcusSchmiedehausen2 ай бұрын
This knob is original 🙈
@nickloughrey98412 ай бұрын
These are really nice . There are a lot of TG501A,SC503,PG506A units out there with the newer red Lens that would benefit from this service if you had the time to make up the files for them .I certainly would invest in a set of the 3 .for my set . I'm presently looking for a SG504 and will get one for it two ...........Well done!................. these cosmetic projects are just what is needed as there are loads of working but crap looking 500/5000 modules out there .i wonder would PCWAY be able to reproduce the silk screen fronts as well ?PS I just did a couple of TM503 facelifts with your boards. Had a tight squeeze on the Nichicon 4700/63/105 caps I put in leu of the no longer available ones in your BOM. Worked out very well . I dont need the pinouts at the top so just insulated the area with capton below the wider caps.Thanks.
@absurdengineeringАй бұрын
The fronts are OK DIY. Print with a color laser on an adhesive transparent printable label. Cover (“laminate”) with another label. Reuse old scratched up front end or have one laser cut without any legend.
@devilishgaming14692 ай бұрын
The inside of mine does not look like that and I bought the same model
@katiewhatcott16162 ай бұрын
My ruumba is only 2 months old but my house is all Hardwood with 2 kids 😂......ty! The brush has hair in it lol
@karlmartell92792 ай бұрын
This is not a feather in one's cap, to build such a big ass simple apprentice power supply. Moreover, it contains three bulky transformers and a thick, cumbersome housing. The same result could have been achieved in half an hour by soldering or connecting three 5V and 2x15V plug-in power supplies, and it would have been comparatively tiny with high efficiency to boot. Or is the device to be powered sensitive to the potential noise from switching power supplies? But I must give a huge compliment: The execution is absolutely perfect, beautiful, and solid! It seems that the goal was the construction itself, not just having a power supply.
@irgski2 ай бұрын
Probably should replace the RIFA AC safety caps.
@NearFarMedia2 ай бұрын
All been done. 🙂 Depending on the PSU revision, it may have RIFA capacitors or may not (I think the earlier ones usually have them, later ones don't). Definitely worth checking.
@samanarjomand25122 ай бұрын
My flip 3 doesn't turn on could you help thank you