this has to be one of the worst tool demonstrations I've ever seen 🤣🤣 like, what is this? were you going for the "stop motion" effect? lmfao ... I'm almost certain you're supposed to show the tool being used, not skip through to different points of the progress 🤣🤣 ffs ... I think I know now why you bought the tool

Can I come

No.

Yep, thats me! It was on the street because we were moving in. Doka and van moved with us. Will be around on Saturday if you want to stop by.

@@MattofManyTrades Cool. Welcome to the neighborhood! I’ll try and swing by at some point. My Son is a fan of the Doka and spotted your truck and your channel sticker. Don’t see many here despite this being the VW bus capital. Sorry if this seems sorta stalkerish. Totally unintended. Guess it’s a VW guy thing. Haha.

@@ocavant not stalkerish. It is a VW thing. I super get it.

Your doors are probably inch and 1/ quarter inch and a half thick. I used three-quarter inch screws that were into three-quarter inch material so untruth only about a quarter of an inch protrude into the door insulation. What holds the racks to the door is not substructure or insulation it’s the sheet metal. Tap a little pilot hole and use sheet metal screws. Not self tappers. Don’t over torque. Just tighten them until they’re snug. These were up in my old shop for two years and the door went up and down every day. They’re mounted in my current shop on a 14 foot high rollup door that goes up two or three times a week there hasn’t been a single pull out or failure.

Probably. I had an auto focus issue with my camera and had a couple videos that I shot complete and just had to go with the footage that I had already shot.

Nice!!

Same. I know people complain about government oversight, blah blah blah, but it’s more efficient. It burns less wood and heats bejesus out of my house.

@@MattofManyTrades so true

I don’t, but it depends on your paint. A SW exterior house paint is thick as putty and would have to be thinned. I sprayed with a quality interior trim paint that is fairly thin - Ben Moore Advance.

I had something similar in a house years ago. That was a single story ranch. And it worked great. My current home is a bi-level mid-century, and I also have duel Heat pumps on each level with head units in each bedroom. The fans in them are super efficient and when I have the fireplace on I almost never turned the internal fan on in the fireplace, because it is a little energy inefficient. Instead, I’ll turn the fans on low in all the units on and open the doors and the heat circulates all over the house levels. Works great. I stayed in an A-frame once that had an 8 inch tube/duct that ran to the very top of the peak to almost floor level that had a fan that drew the hot air in the peak down. It made it super comfortable and fix the issue of the main area being comfortable and the sleeping loft being hotter than the fifth level of hell. The fan on the duct seem to have been a large DC computer fan, so I’m sure that it was just sipping pennies a day as well

The country where you get an inversion later in the air stagnates in winter, the only way that you can legally buy a woodfired heat source (stove insert, regular wood stove, pellet stove, etc..) is to have one with the catalytic converter, installed to reborn the particulates in the hot instead of venting. Most cities have passed similar ordinances from New York to Chicago to Dallas to Portland. if you live in an urban area, you can’t use grandpa’s potbelly stove that was in the cabin for 55 years. It makes it a little more complicated to light, but my home growing up was heated solely on wood heat so I have some experience and I will say that stoves and inserts with the catalytic converter I have longer burn times and I use less wood in them so they are more efficient and a better use of . I don’t like how much more expensive they are, and I think that the expense is directly reflective of the fact that they mandated by law, but the return of investment in comparison is only for five additional years and a good woodstove will last you for your lifetime. With the newer models, you may after 10 years have to replace the catalytic brick, but on mine it costs $250 is fairly easy to get to and I bought an extra with the stove and it’s on the top shelf of the pantry just in case I need it in a decade or so.

@@MattofManyTrades You must be in Canada. Wow. Even got the wood stoves. Ridiculous.

@@chrisragan9766 Nope. Oregon. Same rules in Seattle, Chicago, St. Louis, and even Dallas. Any major urban area.

Thanks Mason! See you there next year!

I wouldn't have even thought of not including it! Your photographed inner demon is full of love and generosity!

Thank you

Thanks. There are commercial options available now, but my home-built ones are still working great and are not plastic. Send a pic when you build yours :-)

Cinder blocks and boards are old school. IKEA is the new version.

you could, but would HAVE to add a face frame with the shelf biscuit joined into the back of the face frame. Done for reinforcement. If not, the shelf WILL bow.

I did not. That would would flip me out as I would think that it would have a reliability issue connected to the sensor. I would call SawStop TOMORROW!

Nice! Yep, the Engine stand Method is the way to go. I just sold this bender (not the dies) to a local guy and I and upgrading it a little and will build version 2 on the engine stand.

Thank you. No, I have not had that issue.

It is the 1Z. Supposed to be the ALH. Now has the 1.6 pin and excuse temp & boost gauge in cab.

which? The bender material (.250") or the post holder (.125")? Or test material (cold Rolled .250")?

This was at my house. Digging old line, water blast and vacuum of material because could not be hand dug or drilled, interior foundation concrete work, new line, 2 weeks of 800gal/hr water waste, 2 new water heaters 20 years old - was time), permits, gravel fill, topsoil. I have never met a poor plumber in my whole life.

Yep, still responding😁 My slab was 8 inches above ground level, and there was no chance of any sort of flooding are moving water to get in around the base. Between my bottom plate and the slab I used sill seal, which is a pink foam, squishy, non-adhesive tape. It comes in a roll, and you can get it at a big box store, or at your lumberyard. I had flashing as well between my sheathing, and the slab that hung down about an inch over the slab. And my bottom course of sheathing should have been treated plywood, but when I built that garage treated plywood was on unobtainable in my area. I built a garage after that one and built it into the hillside, a little, so I ended up framing on top of a stemwall, and that is my preferred method as well. If your slab is older, it will be difficult to shoot nails into it. Without cracking up, my advice is to drill it blow out and vacuum out those holes and then use expansion or Apoxsee anchors to hold treated bottom plate down to the slab. That’s my two cents worth at least. I hope your project goes really well. Send me a link to it either in process or when it’s done.!

@@MattofManyTrades thanks for the info! My pad has been around for 25 years or so and is level to the surrounding ground. The original owner built a shed right on the pad, and water runs under the sills and makes a mess! I think I’m going to lay a 1 cinder block footing around the pad and then start building on that. I may have to put in a gravel drain around the pad to divert the water. Always something! Appreciate your response!

@@SM-dv6wi yes, cutting a trench and putting in a French drain around the perimeter it’s probably money well spent. If you don’t have sufficient slope to drain in standing water on the perimeter, you can always dig a sump at the end of the line and put in a pump with the float on it so that we won’t have any standing water next to your slab, even in heavy rain or spring melt. Cinderblocks on your slab will keep your walls above possibly wet concrete, but there would still be some capillary action and you would get water under the block if you don’t put in the perimeter drain.

SendCutSend will be your friend. It is like having an on-call plasma table. The torch in this video, along with the hoses, bottles, and manky cart cost me a total of 150 at an estate sale. I see them around for that and less weekly. The welder is a Lincoln 180c that was $600 new. I used gas, but you could do this with a $20 roll of Flux core wire. Say $50 for a helm and $15 for gloves and you are in the fabrication business. Use these to earn enough for roller, then a bender, a press, eventually a plasma torch and you are now your own boss.