Thanks for the comment. I haven't heard of anyone put the FD750D (X700 gasser) into a 425/445 before. That's pretty cool. How did the install go? Did it bolt up to the original engine mounts, driveshaft coupler, muffler, cooling, etc...? Curious to know how much fab work and improvising that required. Thanks.

Thanks for the comment. The X495's are also great tractors. I don't currently own one so didn't have one in the video, but have owned them in the past. I've noticed a few differences. There were a few different engines used, with slight variations in displacement and torque as they progressed through the years due to emissions standards. You'll notice this when you buy fuel filters, need to know the year to get the right filter. A guy on MTF posted this cheat sheet: 2003 - 2004 x495/x595 1.0 liter Yanmar U.S. EPA Tier 1 2005 - 2010 x495/x595/x74* 1.1 liter Yanmar U.S. EPA Tier 2 2011 - x74* .9 liter Yanmar U.S. EPA Tier 4 Personally I like the big 1.1L which is what's in X740 in the video, the torque and fuel efficiency are just awesome. Those early Tier 1's are a little smoky when they start up and I've had more front main crank seal and valve cover leaks on those, but I love the way they throttle up and sound. The dash monitor is a little different on the X495 and some of them had that dumb maintenance minder reset button inside the cooling pack. If you have one of those you know what I mean. People have brought me mowers asking why it's flashing fault codes because of that thing. There's also something different about the rockshaft setup. The X495 will accept the 7-Iron, but it's not really made for it. I think you need to use the shorter P-bolts and even when it does bolt up, the lift height range is less than on the X740. It will mow just fine at standard heights, but this can make it more different for clearance getting on/off trailers. Overall a great machine, I do like the X495/595's. It has all the important stuff (modulated PTO engagement, tilt hood, more robust hood plastics, longer wheelbase, etc...) that made some nice advances over the 455. Just a few differences from the X740 which came later. I'm sure I've missed some other minor differences, hopefully someone else can comment. This is just what I've noticed while owning both.

Hello sir, glad you watched the video and glad to hear from all of you 400 Series fans. I had a guy comment on one of my other videos that he'd rather listen to the Trump-Biden debate than me. I guess he just wanted to know how to change the part and not learn anything about it. I can tell you are curious and want to learn, which is great and why I started this channel. So, the Kanzaki K91 is an HST with internal charge pump. The charge circuit firstly keeps your low side loops happy and any excess is then available for steering and the implement system. The steering and implement valves are both open center. If you're not steering, the excess flow heads out the power beyond port to the implement. The return circuits from both the steering and implement valve tee together at the RH side of the lower radiator tank. Eventually all of this excess flow ends up there and averages the supply, although dynamically it will can change due to cylinder ratios. There is an oil section of the rad that cools this fluid. It leaves the LH side of the tank and dumps back into the K91. If you poke your head underneath, you'll see two -6 ORFS connections with on that lower rad section, those are the cooling lines. The 445/455 is a very robust, well designed unit and I've never seen them leak, so most people don't know they're there. The later X495/740 changed from this design to a little standalone cooler in front of the rad. Those look like one of those little Samsung units you see on heavy equipment, and uses crappy beaded hose connections. I've repaired several of those and it's a huge mess because the fan sucks the oil through the rad and blows it all over the engine. Since you're curious, I'd like to pose a quick thought experiment. Let's ignore the charge pump heat and just consider the HST pump/motor for simplicity. Let's say you're in a heavy drawbar application like tilling and propel is consuming 11Hp and the rear PTO the balance (11Hp). This isn't a heavy equipment trans that is 90%+, it's a light duty bullet nose style, so let's say it's 85% efficient on the pump and motor. (.85 * .85 * 11) = 8 Hp going to the ground and the rest, 3 Hp ends up as heat. 3Hp = ~7600 Btu/hr. To put that into perspective, this would be 1.5x of those 120V ceramic bathroom heaters, chugging away directly into the center of your trans. It must be cooled or you'd have Chernobyl on your hands in no time. The K91 and and your commercial zero turns do it this way (the right way). You've probably seen those cheesy plastic fans on the cheaper throwaway HST's on box store riders and zero turns, which in my opinion is a poor excuse for cooling because most people don't clean them and HST life greatly suffers. Point is, either way they need to be cooled in some way to live. Happy wrenching!

Hello, so maybe this wasn't clear in the video. EGR had already long been pulled on this truck, so the stock up-pipe had a blocker plate and just emptiness on the other side of it (no EGR). In the video I was doing some engine compartment cleanup and since there is no EGR, eliminating that unused leg in the stock uppipe to prevent a future bellows blowout down the road and replacing with a bulletproof PPE LB7 setup.

@StevesFarmShop ok, cool. I have that same up pipe, but I went with a PPE down pipe as well. Pulling the stock up pipe tonight, so I'll need to order a block plate for the area that gets deleted from the PPE one, right?

Hi, if you're going to keep the EGR, then yes I suppose. As long as you're in that deep already though, you might want to just pull the EGR. They sell kits online with the Y bridge blocker and coolant reroute hoses. It really cleans things up and makes access easier to other stuff once it's out of there. Note, I think you'll need a tune whether you pull or block it. You probably know that already.

@@StevesFarmShop yes sir, I have a tuning module from EFI live. Now, to start finding those kits you told me about haha

Hello, I looked back in my notes and had written down that the issue was fixed starting at the 1998 model year, serial numbers 60001 and later. I also had a note for the engine S/N itself which was 150198 and later. I haven't owned one that got extremely close to the S/N break so can't confirm personally, but haven't run into a situation where those numbers were wrong yet. On the gears, I pulled up some pictures of the last failed one I repaired. The actual issue is the cam gear which usually breaks during initial cranking, but when it happens the broken teeth get jammed up in the other plastic gears and sometimes break them too. I usually see the loose teeth break the oil and water pump gears as well, but not the governor.

Glad to hear it! I just mowed with the X740 w/7-Iron yesterday for a few hours. Puts a smile on my face every time I use it. Great old machine. Also can't go wrong with an X495 (earlier) or X750 (later) if you're cruising marketplace and find one in good shape. Note, the 7-Iron will fit on an X495.

Hello. It probably depends on what you're doing with it. The old 445/455 mowers are great machines overall, especially 445 with factory steel cam and either machine with 60" deck. I'd stay away from the 48/54" deck and older 425/445's with the plastic cam, unless it's a super deal and you have time to mess with it. Also keep in mind that these machines are going on 20-30 years old now and some of the parts are going obsolete. Parts availability on the X700's will be much better, they ride nicer due to the longer wheelbase, and the plastics are more durable. Also, if you're in the snow belt and need 4WD for a plow and/or snowblower, the X700's are your only choice (X728/38 and 48/58). The 7-Iron decks are bulletproof beasts on the X700's. Personally I don't like AWS machines because I do all my own repair work, and those add a lot of linkages and wear points, and sort of block access for certain repair and maintenance tasks. I believe the AWS system on the 400's also ran smaller rear tires (like the 425). I prefer the larger, non AWS 26x12-12 rubber. My property is too large to do snow removal with these and I only mow, so I prefer the simpler 2WD, no AWS models. But every lawn and application is unique, so purchase what fits your needs best. Overall I love the nostalgia of the 400's but on days where I'm mowing for 6-7 hrs straight, prefer the ride quality and endless smooth torque of the Yanmar diesel. In my area, $4k for a 445 would be about average, $3.5k a good price.

@@StevesFarmShop I have 3 properties i want to prep for new grass. I'll probably will be using a box scraper to clear and level the ground and then I thought about possibly getting a "Rotadairon" tiller to do the rest. Ofcourse mowing duties would follow soon after, so a mowing dech would be in order. A friend suggested to consider an Ingersoll 4020 or 4018 for these projects. Have you ever worked with an Ingersoll 4000 series tractor? If so, what have been your experiences with these machines? I appreciate your help :)

Hello. Sorry I haven't ever worked on one of those. It looks like a beefy old machine, but older and with an Onan engine. You'll get lots of opinions from people, but for me I own so much stuff... I don't have time to chase obsolete parts and dicker with Onan engine problems and parts availability. All depends on your situation. In my area, Deere has an extremely strong dealer presence and support / parts availability is good. There are other good manufacturers as well, but I tend to lean towards stuff that I know I can keep running without always being in parts search mode and avoiding always having to repair it vs. using it. I will only also buy equipment made in the USA by US companies to support our economy and our jobs. All I have are larger tractors and heavy equipment now, but I used to maintain 3 acres with a Deere 3720 w/72" 7-Iron mid mount deck. Turbocharged Yanmar, Danfoss HST, made by Deere in Augusta, GA. That was a great little unit for what I needed at the time. Older models would be like the 4100-4700 and later 10 Series. Now you're probably aware that new models are still designated 2, 3, 4 Series followed by engine Hp.

Holy cow, $450 is a screaming deal for a '00 445! It's sort of "Deere country" here in my area, and I never see them go that cheap.

Thanks for all the interest, everyone. I enjoy reading your comments on these great old machines.

I have a 48" deck with the power flow head I don't need. I am in northern Michigan. I have used a couple of the anti-scalp wheels on my 54" deck so they are missing.

Hello, yes I don't think the downpipe will come out of there with the heat shield attached. If it can, it will be a real fight. If you watch until later in the video you can see the old and new downpipes side by side. You can sort of see where that center heat shield bolt tab is, slightly above and behind the 9th injector port. It is probably the worst one to reach. I think I usually take this one off from the fenderwell, but you might be able to reach down from above to at least help you find where it is the first time. I used a flex head ratcheting wrench to get those out. Hope you're able able to get it, it's a crappy job with the body on.

@@StevesFarmShop thank you I did get the bolt out and with a strap did pull it out. Now the bad part the top up pipes bolts . Did you go from the top or the wheel well.

Hello, glad you got your downpipe out. For the top up pipe bolts, personally I think it's easier to do them from the wheel well. I don't have a topside creeper and find that the turbo outlet sort of overhangs the pedestal and makes that hardware hard to see from the top. Two things though, I can't remember if I said this in the video... If you're in the rust belt, soak the crap out of them with a good penetrant before really leaning into it. Breaking off those bolts in the pedestal will make for a bad day! It means pulling the turbo to drill and for me the whole turbo pull job with body on takes 6-8 hours. The other thing, that EGR coolant supply tube behind the up pipe will block access to 1-2 of those bolts. You have to remove the hold down bolt and pull that tube out of there first. I've found it easiest to pull up on it from the engine bay with a prybar while twisting. If it's never been out before, it probably won't come out without twisting. If your truck doesn't have an EGR anymore, that tube doesn't have to go back in. You can plug it off with one of the plugs like the Fleece one in the video, but you'll need the Wherli / John C Garage Coolant reroute kit to connect the heater core to T-stat housing back up. Good luck with your project.

@@thomaspaul929I did this job last week. From the top it’s easier. But u gotta have the turbo heat shield off. I cut shield in two pieces and folded it to get it out. Then I can feel the bolts and remove. Get a folding ratchet driver, it helps a lot w this job.

Ha! It is the exact same situation here in the Midwest. The old experienced guys who used to fix this stuff are all retiring, nobody new in the pipeline, and the stuff being sold now in the stores is all cheap Chinese junk. You should watch Taryl's latest video on this exact topic (I think it's called "Why I'm Closing My Shop"). He really nails the explanation on the current small engine repair state of affairs. It is a sad situation.

Hello, what's in the video there is sort of a custom "commercial" 10323. My area is extremely hilly, and I built a few of these for extreme sidehill use. The stock 10323 fuel tank design starves the carb during extreme LH side tip, the commercial overhead tank solves this. If you'd like to build your own, search the LB 22261 on Jack's Small Engine or PartsTree. Pick any year, they're all the same. There you'll find the tank, mounting brackets, spark plug shield, etc... to do the conversion. Actually the shroud in the video is the stock SilverPro shroud. If you take the top cover off, this what you'll see. However, you need the commercial tank to run without the top cover. The recoil is from an F-Series. You can drill the rivets out of the stock SilverPro recoil cover, find a nice used F-Series recoil, paint it, and bolt it where the stock SilverPro recoil was. Lawn Boy used to sell the commercial decals to make it match the 22261 if you're that picky. Or, sometimes you can find reproduction ones that are a near exact match on fleabay. On the carb, I've worked on 100's of these and actually prefer more of a size 40 pilot jet with the RTek snowblower throttle plate. This is less smoky and less potential to surge than a 42.5 with the stock plate. If it surges with the 40 + RTek plate, usually the shaft seal is bad.

@StevesFarmShop no drilling needed??

@@StevesFarmShop very expensive conversion though, it's just badass to see a silver series turned into a commercial model.

Hi there, thanks for the comment. I've used this trick often on heavy deck tensioning springs as well. It keeps you out of the line of fire, such as being underneath the machine prying on these loaded parts with screwdrivers or prybars, etc... Helps avoid broken fingers! It also lets you pull with a lot more force if you can brake a knee or something on the frame, deck, etc... Work safe, everyone!

@@StevesFarmShopalso liked the wire hack CHEERS. Here’s a wiring lesson always stack ring terminals to a stud like a pyramid with the smallest at nut at the top just basic wiring usually overlooked thanks