Are you getting spark? Make sure you're getting voltage.

@@ArcticFrost yes getting good spark and the fuel psi is good too.

Normally it’s best to stick with OEM carbs. Clean it out with carb cleaner and compressed air to make sure the passages are clear. Those aftermarket carburetors always seem to give issues.

What is the battery voltage?

@@ArcticFrost 12 + volts.

@@ArcticFrost i have lots of juice in the battery, i even tried jumping the selenoid. Nothing ..

Check up the wiring harness. Sounds like there might be a short somewhere. Also, could get your battery load tested. Even if it shows voltage it might not have the amperage.

Sounds like the battery is dead. You can get it load tested to confirm at your local auto parts store but you’ll probably need a new battery.

Glad they help.

Does it show E for any gear position it’s in?

@@ArcticFrost yes yes, but E shows gear position H, L, N, R does not show these letters but only E shows what could be the problem

@@ArcticFrost pls replye

Not yet

They are the same, yes. 👍🏼

Probably needs a good cleaning. Might check the coil wire too. One of mine was starting to corrode on the end. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kMuYpK9419_bmKc.htmlsi=Goa-m2gzRrFu0BGo

There is tape you can get with the insulation backing but since I had the original backing on the fender I just added the aluminum heat reflective tape. Great for keeping the heat down for summer riding. ☀️

I really like them, great for keeping the brush off 👌🏼

Lol, all drag races? No trail riding?

Have you managed to delete the code? We don't have a "reverse override button" either, instead we have a horn. :(

They’ve held up great in the last four years, I normally use the low setting in winter, high is too hot unless you need to warm up quickly.

@@ArcticFrost thank you would you recommend buying them I like how the switch was done and how they're one of the cheaper ones

They’ve been great. I’d get them again if I were to put them on another ATV.

@@ArcticFrost okay thank you

Glad it helped! 👍🏼

What model are you working on?

@@ArcticFrost 2011 model

Do you have a new plug in it? To get a better connection you can trim the coil wire back a little. If the wire is damaged or corroded too bad a new one should work.

Yep, one of the best ways to tighten up the suspension. Installing UHMW Bushings: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mrpiopSjsM-yiZs.html

@@ArcticFrost thank you! New subscriber here and went down the rabbit hole watching tons of your vids. Great stuff !!

@@ArcticFrost shoot looks like RTR stopped making these

I don’t know if you messaged him on the forums he might have a set left. Thanks for following along!

@@ArcticFrost I’ll check! Mostly need them for the rears. The squeak is unbearable 😂

Yes, that will happen if the one way is bad. It’ll catch on the clutch and cause it to stall out.

Lol! That’s what they want you to think

Glad it helped, Thanks for watching!

Yeah, you’ll just look for clutch kits for the 500 model.

@@ArcticFrost okay. I just haven't been able to find it anywhere yet. Thanks

@@ArcticFrost Hey there Arctic Frost, can you please help me again? I've been doing research and reading a host of different opinions on increasing tire size on stock rims. Could I actually go from 25" tires to 27" without having to change the clutching and it wouldn't be a big problem regarding performance? I'm hearing that you can go up 1 to 2 inches bigger, but anything beyond is questionable. Is this true and what's your honest opinion how much bigger I could go up in tire size on my 2016 AC 500 alterra XL with the 25×8×12 & 25×10×12 without changing the clutching?

You can go up 1 or 2 inches without losing too much power. But if you are looking at getting a more aggressive tread that will add weight with the bigger size so you will lose power and speed. Mud tires are a lot heavier with their thick tread and some all terrain tires will have more tread or thicker side walls that can add weight.

@@ArcticFrost That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. Especially about the all terrain tires, because I'm mostly driving on pavement and hard pack dirt and gravel roads. Thank you so much 🙏💪

You can add an inline filter to the fuel line. But yes, the filter is in the tank.

Some of the things I’ve seen for a while but time to get it in top shape. 👍🏼

Glad it helped, love riding the Alterras! 😎

LEDs shouldn’t change anything, might check your sensor to see if it’s damaged or the connection is loose then take it for a test drive.

The manual says every 2k but I would change it out every 1000.

Thanks. I’m guessing over time of changing and checking plugs it got ripped. Good to check on things every once in a while to keep it running good.

Sounds like it’s getting too much gas if it’s coming out the exhaust gasket and flooding it.

no way it could be a valve issue?

You could check the valves. Sounds like it’s getting too much gas. Does it fire?

@@ArcticFrost gotta really give it the gas and it will spurrer and like choke itself out, 3 carbs, all new for the 500 ho. thought it was stuck needle and seat, but all 3 have gas running out the exhaust donut. Going to take the valve cover off and see if the valves are moving, any ideas? The cam looks good, and rockers.

Double check your valves if they are off kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZsyGksShzaqsoYE.html

You could check the ignition coil but it sounds like there’s bad connection or the idle is off.

On your model when you have codes it should display them on the screen. The copper wire method or diagnostic plug is for the older models before 2013.

@@ArcticFrost Ok thank you. Two more questions: (preface to first question)- How do you work the display so it shows any codes the computer may be detecting problems that should be addressed? Because the owner manual doesn't explain how to. It only shows you how to open and enter the diagnostic screen where you can see the battery voltage, coolant temperature, intake, air pressure, speed, rpm, etc. 2nd question: Is there a special electronic tool or part that I'm required to purchase in order to view troubleshooting codes?

On your 2016 500 If an EFI or component fails or an out-of-tolerance signal is detected by the ECM it will display a code on the display until it the issue is corrected. If no codes are showing then it’s either not detecting an issue or there’s no issue.

@@ArcticFrost That's good to know 😁👍

Yes, there should be a quiet whirring sound from the pump. No noise could mean it’s not getting power or not running at all.

Everything is pretty simple to do on Arctic Cats. 👍🏼 The 75-140 is good for towing and off-road use. You should be fine running it in your diff, I’ll probably run that next time I change mine.

I try to share them in the description when I can. You can also find them at countrycat or if you know the part number you can search ebay or amazon.

​@@ArcticFrostokay great. Yeah I was wondering about countrycat regarding whether they were reputable or not. Thanks!

Let’s goooo! 😎

Thanks, I hope these videos help make ATV maintenance easier. 👍🏼

They have a little catch tab on them. I use a little screwdriver to release them.

Sounds like it’s flooding.

But sir my engine is a kind of miss firering since I got the engine sir so this is how it used to do Sir when ever I tried to Accralate the engine to the fullest the movement of the engine is always very very poor sir but I have checked everything on the engine and I found out that everything is ok sir but one thing that I'm suspecting always is the top gasket sir although it has over heated several times sir so I want to ask u sir did u think that over heating can make it to be missfirering sir??

Never over heated

Holding the throttle open to start will flood the engine if you do it long enough.

It should always have tension on the plunger. The screwdriver is only to pull it back to install it.

Glad it helped!

That’d be cool!

Glad it helped!

High 😎

@@ArcticFrost Now that's a great performing machine 💪😎

It should be pretty snug. I would check that the tensioner is working properly. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mpZnoMt1sK--hWQ.html

Aw, hope you can find one. It’s a nice all around MTB.

This is just a simple reclocking to the secondary to B2 and lightening the primary rotating mass. It won’t shorten the lifespan but gives a higher RPM for better low end torque.

@@ArcticFrost Oh okay, so this is kind of a way of mimicking a clutch kit endeavor without actually replacing or adding any parts, and not having to purchase anything. Is that a correct conclusion?

@@biosphere8488 yes, you can reclock the secondary without getting a whole clutch kit.

@@ArcticFrost oh wow! Do you have or know of any videos showing how to do it step-by-step for the arctic cat 500 alterra? This was a cool video but I got lost when you all were modifying the clutch.