0W-8 is crazy if it is even a thing now. We have yet to see if 0W-16 has any meaningful impact on cars compared to the previous most common spec which was 5W-30/5W-30). my guess is that at best, it would be the same due to improvements in metals and anti-wearing technologies, even though they now use a thinner oil and engines with tighter tolerances. However, the FIRST mistake you made is that you DID NOT change the oil in that Corolla until 10k. I would have done it at about 1000 miles, 2500 miles and then again at 5,000 miles and every 5,000 miles there after. This sounds a bit excessive and maybe the second one at 2500 miles is not needed, but you do want to change the oil after the first 1,000 miles or so (After "break in"). I just do mine every 5,000 miles or about every 5 months, whichever comes first, and this is how I've done it on all of my vehicles (both right after break-in with the changes at 1k, 2500 and 5,000) and all of my previous cars made it well over 200k miles). I'm sure it will probably be OK, but I would not go that long between oil changes especially if it calls for a thinner oil like 0W-8. The reason the mfr likes to tell people 10k is because the engine likely won't have issues through the warranty, but it might start to have issues after a few years of use or about 100k miles probably if you keep to a 10,000 interval. Go 5,000 miles and you shouldn't have any issues. It's a bit old fashion thinking, but then again, oil is cheap, new/rebuitl engines are not. And interestingly enough, even though in my manual for my 2020 Camry, it says every 10,000 miles, it actually reminds me at 5,000 miles. I don't know if the dealer can change this and maybe they did once they realized I was going to be doing 5,000 intervals, but the car does remind me at 5,000 miles ( ican turn it off obviously for another 5,000 miles if I wanted to, but I generally stick to the 5,000 oir 6,000 if in a pinch, but not 10,000 miles. I don't care what type of oil or what type of additives it has).

You need to do a collaboration with project farms.... He loooooves oil testing mate 👍 uncle Eddie needs a new friend 😂

It hurts my heart that Mann has moved most of the Wix production to china, very sad. Good video, usually a thinner oil sheds heat faster so it also helps keep the oem cooling packages as light, small and cheap as possible.

drives me nuts how manufactures these days have a "one size fits all" oil viscosity recommendation. A guy pulling a trailer long distances with his truck in the heat of summer shouldn't be running the same oil viscosity as somebody's grandpa who only drives short trips to the hardware store and lives in northern Wisconsin. And yet, it seems that most people think that number on the oil cap is some hard rule that must be adhered to for all conditions.... "it's what the engine was designed for" is what i normally hear.

Great video Lake. Truly love the education - so would we then possibly conclude that the best of both worlds between these oils be the champ? I.E. going with a 5W-50 What would be the disadvantages when having a bigger variance in the oil viscosity?

How can you refill a sideways fitting filter or a canister type that lies on top of the engine?

what if you do the same test not in a "loose engine" but in a modern engine made to run on low viscosity oil with tight tolerances?

I understand that theres oxidation and chemical degradation. However I dont think that a quick couple sloshes by hand is a proper shake for this test. I'd love to see how the lab tests would be if they had the sh*t taken out of them, like a paint shaker for minutes, to actually recover everything that separated

So which is better over-all performance 5w20 or 20w50?

I would have liked to see 5w30 as well because those of us know don't run 20 weight and thinner oils!

I wish I could pre-fill my oil filter but it is at the top of the engine and upside down.

How do you prefill a Toyota oil filter that goes in sideways [like your daughter's Carollla?]

I've always just been too much of a cheap guy to buy oil additives. Good to know that science has backed my penny pinching. Lol

I feel it would have been better if the test was done with the correct viscosity oils in engines that were specced for them. If the engine was specced for w40 oil, w50 would have been acceptable to a certain degree, but w20 would definitely show more wear. This engine would be damaged more if you poured in w16 or w8 oil. But we already know that it’s not the intended spec.

VALVOLINE PREMIUM BLUE EXTREME FULL SYNTHETIC DIESEL ENGINE OIL SAE 5W-40, we are using it in diesels haha

You should repeat the test with a 0w40.

Friction is not wear. Thinker oil takes more energy to pump.

10w40 is what I use because of the hot Texas in the summer driving. 110 outside temp and the pavement is 150+.

When the air in the filter is compressed, it can't hold the water (humidity), and it dumps it into the system. Think Air compressor, and how water will collect in the tank.

Both my vehicles use canister style filters. Can you prefill those?

I wonder if it matters if the filter is partially filled? My current engine oil filter attaches at 90 degrees to gravity.

I have a new 2023 Forester for 7 months, with 2,500 miles. Live in NY. How critical is the 6 month oil change interval under low mileage usage? I changed the oil at 1,000 miles in February.

No-one argues that you "shouldn't" fill an oil filter. They just happened to have owned a vehicle that has a horizontal mounted oil filter or they build oil pressure before firing the vehicle over using one of many methods. I personally do not "fill" them but do add a little and make sure to always build oil pressure before starting the vehicle. Besides your all a bunch of hypocrites anyway. Same "better fill the filter" guys also do all their maintenance based on the free "idiots manual to high repair bills" located in the glove box. They also generally bring the vehicle to the dealer for their oil changes where 99% of the lube techs DO NOT fill the oil filters.😅

Even though I have built tons of race engines. I always listened to the cheap old guys, (where I learned as a kid!) who had huge, expensive, over the road Diesels in their Tractor trailer trucks & large farm tractors! Good 15w40, oil samples, fill the filter, warm engine up, & idle it down, change oil at 10000mi! I have seen many of them at 500000mi & they still looked like new when doing a inframe! So all that shit works! Who would have thought 🙄🙄🙄🙄!

I don’t get it, R U not(if U hav clEr flood mode, which is apparantly a way to turn engine with starting motor without it starting), STILL cranking engine B4 filter is primed anyway? from what I’v seen gUgLing RoOnd a bit, all these techniques of skipping starting car while filter is still dry for a few sec.s involve turning engine(also dry-ish) for a bit. therefore the way I figure it, a small thin flat disc, very thin, oiled on both sides to not mess up oiled gasket, etc., that closes around spindle gizmo & lays flat to oil filter untill it’s almost tight, then at last 20th” open slide out flat gizmo with one hNd Yl immediately swiftly turning filter to a flush seal. will be thin area oil is draining, for aboOt 1/5 to 1/3 second(maybe 1/10th to 20th quart) will spill out, & 1 can even have a small peice of plastic there to catch it, then poor that in filler cap hole 👋😑

I have always strongly believed in filling the oil filter before installing it, but many canister type filters can't be pre-filled, such as the one on my 54 Chrysler HEMI, so I replaced it with the 51 - 53 style, which CAN be pre-filled.

It's interesting when a manufacturer specifies different viscosity for the same engine in different applications. E.g. the standard Barra engine used in Aussie Ford Falcons states 5w/30, the LPG dedicated version 15W/40 as does the Turbo version. The LPG versions is essentially the same as the petrol one except that some earlier ones apparently shared their conrods with the Turbo version but I suspect the real reason they stated 15W/40 was that the LPG version was aimed at fleets and specifically Taxis which would frequently do 600/800 thousand Km in service so they needed to be extra reliable...

History sounds interesting, nice scientific view. Thanks for sharing 👍

👍 this is what we need on the tube, helps make our equipment last just a little longer. "☝️Project Farm; the original "savior"

In real world conditions carrying a prefilled oil filter into a grubby confided space without bumping some crap into it not so easy or good. Perhaps you should simulate a contaminated prefilled filter and compare that for balance. I usually keep the filter upside down until it reaches the destination to avoid contamination.

I love your videos and think you're doing great work. I live in Phoenix, AZ, and drive a 2020 BMW M2. I saw that Amsoil recommends a 0w-30 synthetic European motor blend for my car. What grade do you suggest for normal street driving with no track time? I would appreciate your expert advice.

My Dodge 2005 SRT 10 with 8.3L V10 came not only with a recommendation of 0-40W, Dodge specifies utilizing Mobil 1 0-40. Dodge even badged the oil filler cap with "Use Only Mobil 1 0-40". What do you think?

How much flow does the oiling system generate, is it a wet or dry sump? Is it possible if it's a very high-performance oiling system the difference was less than it is on a production car? When it comes to filled vs pre-filled

Yea but there are some filters tht are upside-down so u can't pre fill them or even the side mount filters

what about filters that are mounted vertically and cannot be pre filled?

very interesting, good job guys!!

Can't really prefill my oil filter when it's mounted sideways

I knew it 👍👍👍👍👍 made a difference.

Also, the engine drained overnight vs. just swapping with an empty filter.

Thicker oil also makes better seal between top compression ring and cylinder wall.

90W-140 gear oil. One and done..

Doesn’t the dyno itself have a timer?

A lot of vehicles can't have the filter pre-filled as they mount horizontally

Best oil is one that doesn’t change viscosity but they don’t exist. 5w-60 is the best IMO

Were the dry filter tests performed in succession or did they alternate between prefill then no fill?

It would be interesting to know if any oil change shops pre fill the filters

my dirt bike can use 10w30 or 10w40... i'll be using 10w40 now.

Was this engine's bearing setup designed for a hot viscosity of a 20 (or 30, or 40) or 50 weight oil? You've said before that bearing clearances and loads pretty much alone deterimes viscosity.

I had a Mazda RX-7 and used Castrol 20W-50 and that car still consumed a quart of oil with every tank of fuel. I shudder to think how much oil it would consume if I used something like a 0W-20.

Did you check with the lab to see whether or not they shake your samples prior to testing?