Yeah, this one has been doing fine since the weep hole was drilled as well.

Thanks for your health concerns.

In front of my own shop, I can take ALL the spaces if I want.

Fair enough. You can do what you like with your own property. If it was my property I would probably park sideways. Please be considerate in other parking lots.

@@tecmotiondynodoesn’t change the fact that you can’t park worth a shit lmao

@@brandonbelcher9550 I always park like a jackass in front of my own shop to defend the cars from visitors to my neighbors who aren’t that careful with their trucks. In a public lot, I try to stay at the back out of everyone’s way and between the lines.

More regular exercise and better diet plan. Avoid all heart disease and diabetics.

Thanks for watching!

That’s a fair comment.

If you go to Tecmotion.ca and look under shop cars, all the details on this build are there.

I would definitely not use and did not use RTV on the gasket surfaces. I used Permatex High Tack which is a specialized adhesive used to hold the gasket in place and promote sealing on the side of the gasket without a print-o-seal surface. This is essentially the same product as gasgacinch which is what Ford recommends for this job. Applying an oil or grease product to the gasket can damage its integrity and is not a good idea. As for retorquing the manifold bolts, that isn’t possible with an EFI manifold unless you remove the upper and I have never seen it be necessary if you follow the procedure that I outline here.

Thanks for watching

Thank you. I tried to make a comprehensive video and it ended up being so long that I thought no one would watch it.

It’s easy to push the production block too hard. I often have to try to hold cars like that back in the tuning to promote longevity.

@@tecmotiondynoyeah I’m about 11.3-11.1 AFR and total timing at 10 psi is 15-16 degree

If you are asking if you should sample the clean oil, the answer is no. The labs have already done that so if you tell them the brand and weight of oil you are sending in, they will compare it against their database baselines.

Not enough draw for the factory system to see a working bulb. Traditional halogen draw much more than leds.

Hopefully we'll see on the stream tonight!

You can ask Brent all the questions you want live tomorrow night!

Yes, that alternator is barely enough for the stock car!

@@tecmotiondyno I'd say it's inadequate even for that.

Thanks for watching!

Yeah, breaking the pump/cover bolts has always been an issue with these engines and it is only getting worse as they get older.

Most of the time I would say that a 255 with upgraded wiring would cover that. I’m not a fan of pump boosters, but that will help with your deliverability and pump boosters with mechanical regulators generally don’t produce the pressure spikes that you get with returnless systems. I use a 340 in tank pump pretty commonly on applications like this too.

The wheels are real 02 GT Mustang wheels - 17” Anthracite Bullitts. The adapters are Coyote Products parts and I think I ended up with 3/4”, but I don’t remember off the top of my head. The tires are Cooper Zeon RS3-G1. Pretty sure they are 245-45-17. Speedo correction is done with an Abbott Electronic Ratio adapter. Final drive is 4.10. John used to send me a Christmas card. I was pretty sorry to see him go, and he was some real glue in the Mark VII community. Thanks for watching!

@@tecmotiondyno yeah John was a good man. I was one of the original founders of the club back in the day, too. Appreciate the info on the wheels and tires. 🤘🏻 Kinda like the stock look on mine, kinda like the Bullit look lol

@@theANGRIERone yeah, I have the original BBS wheels, and I had them on the car for a while after I built it, but the car is SO modified and it looked SO stock with those wheels. I wanted something that would at least hint at the modified nature of the car without being over the top and without me having to start it so you can hear the TFS cam and the long tubes and super 44’s, and I had these wheels off an 02 Mustang that I had for a long time, so I tried them on the car and really liked them so they stayed. That car got deep dish bullitts and the Mustang center caps went on the Mustang, so the centers I used on this setup are from the aftermarket deep dish bullitts. They make more sense on the Lincoln than the Mustang centers would have.

@@tecmotiondyno that's my dilemma too. Mine has a TKX, TFS Stage 1, AFR165 and a Holley Terminator X. Everyone thinks it's stock until I start it up to leave the cruise night 😂

@@theANGRIERone lots of people will stop to take a look at my mod sheet when they see it’s me with the car because they know I usually have something special, but sometimes it can just look TOO ordinary. These are real Ford wheels, and the Anthracite finish goes well with the light titanium paint, but they hint at the car being something extra.

No matter what old car is your poison, there’s always something that needs attention!

I have never tried it with that distributor and it’s absolutely not guaranteed to work with it, but I will be interested in your results.

@@tecmotiondyno i will see, it looks to have the same keyed pattern, will see when both arrive to see👍🏻

@@OldPaint it’s on the way!

@@OldPaint so, um, did it match?

@@dougstewart5122 still waiting for my pf4 delivery, looks like it works with the keyed part

Thanks for watching!

The problem with the Mustang logo is that it is actually in or behind the glass, not an outside decal. There are ebay guys who sell non-licensed repro decals, but they never look quite right. If you want to get a factory appearing job, you need to do a restoration of the quarter windows like I did. If you watch this video it will help you with that, or at least understanding what you are up against: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/es-IpbVlmM-ZfX0.html