This is an awesome tip.....thanks!

What is the green wire conected to fuel hose?, ground?

Never epoxy the tank to the boat. It will need to come out eventually. There are other less permanent solutions. Epoxy the neoprene to the tank, sure.

Using 1 in pvc pipe in rear of coffin

The perfect video for the information I was looking for! I was wondering where the green wire went from your tank to the filler hose. The boat I bought was from a guy that already had things torn apart some what so figuring out where it went back to has been fun thank you for putting this out there.

Plan on putting 3/4" drains each side like yours then put shut off vavle to bilge .then close them when in use on the water,drain on land when not in use

Still havent put tank in mako 224 working on coffin hatch,access hatch .Thinking of installing some type of drain in coffin bottom along each side lowest point tee in the back to one flex hose to a 12 volt pump to external location to dump after each use

Where did you get this tank from

Paint the tank with coal tar epoxy before installation.

I was told all metallic components should be grounded to the batteries negative.

Question ground or bonding your tank to the fuel filler how is that wire connected to the filler neck?

Working on my mako 224 fuel tank,getting rid of all the foam.thought of using starboard under tank using 3m 4200 to secure to floor and tank painting fuel compartment with flex liquid white to seal compartment for waterproofing. Painting tank with etching primer then painting with rustoleum marine gray

Drains from fuel compartment not to collect in bilge area per USCG regs.

If you 5200 to the boat, how will you get the tank out if it needs to be replaced again?

You should grease the whole tank. That would save it. And polish it.

GOOD VID, HOWEVER, I JUST DID MY 4TH BOAT REDO. I used 3 commercial restaurant grade drain rubber mats under the tank.

I use McGuires plastic polish and it works great. But make sure you remove the static from the shield that polishing has caused if using mask right away. Water or a mist of alcohol/water works.

Neoprene has carbon in it, which is conductive. Dissimilar metals in an electrolyte creat galvanic corrosion. Which looks like pits and gouges. Make sure you face seal any pads totally. Aluminum when corroding is self protecting, by forming aluminum oxide. Very little of the metal actually is lost to oxide and relatively smooth. As occurs on outboard motors. This is the usual atmospheric type corrosion, but not galvanic corrosion. If you can get vinyl pads, all the better. My ‘92 Grady White had 1/8 inch thick strips of neoprene. The tank was coated with a very light primer. I removed the tanks in 2008 to clean and inspect, the only places where galvanic damage occurred was under the strips. On the bottom and top. Not deep enough to penetrate the 1/8 inch thick tank. I cleaned out the pits, cleaned up the strips across a belt sander to roughen a bit, then fully faced with Life-seal, reinstalled. In Feb 2021 I removed the same tanks to inspect, absolutely no corrosion under the pads in the bottom and no further damage to the existing pits. On the top, where I did add neoprene under a cross brace, there was some galvanic damage, say about 5 square inches total, none of it deep enough to matter. This area I didn’t face seal in 2008. I used a Dremel carefully to clean out the pits. I may apply a primer first. When I reinstall there will be no contact at this point with any bracing, changing the design fro original. I retired the small aux tank really don’t need it, will go back with the big 152 gal. tank only.

I notice your "drain" pipe is at the top (back) of the compartment. Did you make a new drain hole on the bottom? (I'm replacing the tank on an 84 mako 20c. It seemed that it was foamed in, with a built in foam canal leading to that drain pipe on the top back). I would like to try your method, but how did you address this drainage issue?

How long have you been using this?

What a crappy video dude

Is there another way to hold the tank down, without the tabs/screws into the stringers?

DIY Boater, aside from the two hose clamps on the main (large fuel hose) did you do apply any form of sealant inside the hose to get a good leak proof seal, or are the hose clamps enough?

I am ripping through electric fuel pumps on my boat. I believe my anti siphon valve is the culprit. Some people say toss it, some people say dont be a fool. If my fuel line never drops below the tank, do I need it/ Do you have any advice for using an electric fuel pump on a marine system?

Do you know if there is way to remove a scratch?

Someone told me about a friend they had that died from chemicals in the paint,in tub refinishing I'm thinking they used this paint supposedly the paint he was using was illegal

What type of core materials did you use? What was the thickness 1/2” /3/4” marine plywood?

West Marine, ...sells Tinned Copper Strand. it's copper wire with a coating of tin, lasts forever!!! Especially on salt water trailers !!! I've used it for years on my trailer and boat !!! also use a brand of ""self amalgamating tape"" from Lows or Home Dippo, on all your open wire connections! last for ever!! You pull and stretch this tape before wrapping around almost anything, as you wrap it it binds to itself to form a solid rubber fused wrap, will never unwrap, is water tight, as it becomes one solid plug.......cut it with a razor to remove. It's as clean as the day you wrapped the wire.......

Nice work! What type of boat were these from?

What's that black wire for near the green ? Can't fine any for mine.

I would have coated the tank....coal tar epoxy (3-5 coats) or better. But other than that this guys offers good very informed advice.

Where did you get the tank?? It is exactly like the one in my 1973 Mako I have lookied everywhere for one

DIY, good advice on the tank - but do check the rubber bedding strips to make sure there is no 'free carbon' in the mix? Carbon is a metal with a galvanic differential to aluminum so you'd be making a battery if you used the wrong rubber to bed. The idea of 5200 as bedding/bonding isolation is sound but... the areas where that adhesive is used should be sanded or etched so the mill scale is gone- mill scale is galvanic and retains water vapor- not liquid but will promote corrosion flowers. All marine tanks should have #1 a water bottoms sump for pump out of 'tank bottoms' - OR a down comer fuel draw line that is very tight tot he bottom so the bottoms can be picked up into the fuel filter bowl(s). Also this tank is not etched so it will begin external and probably internal corrosion in few years- the explanation of crevice corrosion is accurate- but didn't include the mill scale which does the same thing- and tank bottoms will become De-aereated and acidic too. All 5000 series aluminum tanks should be acid etched, rinsed and flushed extensively before installation. It is best practice to slope the to in a camber or 'shed' style not to be flat like t his one- where condensate can collect on the tank top. Also fuel fill downcomer should got to within 1/2 diameter of pipe to the bottom plate to avoid burping, back slop on fill and bubbling fuel.

good video, educational, I have question please comment, recently purchased a preowned 28.9 SEA SPORT on the first fueling had a very bad, scary experience, a very strong smell of fuel in the cabin, evidently the tank may have a hole in it. am not very experience with this problem therefore any advise will be appreciated, plan to replace the tank with a stainless steel, is that a good approach? the deck will need to be cut in order to reach the tank.. help will be much appreciated

AeroShell Fluid 4 Mineral Hydraulic Oil - Gallon Can $29.82 at SKYGEEK.com NOV 2018..$22 shipping. seastar recommended alternative for ha5430--Marine store prices $24 QUART RIP OFF!must met mil spec H5606

im have problem with floting switch,,using with 1 month and floting switch not work

I

A little red thread lock on the clamps is also a good idea Apply after u tighten them

Where did you buy the tank?

How did you remove the aluminum fill pipe and vent?

I painted my classic car, a 1965 Cadillac conv a beautiful Scarlet Red about 6 years ago and it looks just a great toay as it did after it was just painted. What I like about it is that I never have to wax it and it's a hard paint so it doesn't scratch very easily as a lacquer paint would.

What's the color of the fluid?

I sanded mine then treated with aluma prep and alodine then coated with epoxy. Also you could spray it with corrosion block

Thanks for confirming my way of thinking...

very good

After reading a bunch of articles on installing my aluminum tank, I can say this video offers sound advice.. I also raised my tank out of the bilge a bit by sitting the neoprene pads (every 12-16" on trex board to allow water to drain underneath where it would have otherwise sat in contact with the tank. I attached the neoprene rubber using Life caulk (or use 5200 or 4500) to the bottom of the tank so no water can get in. My tank was coal tar epoxy coated, which is worth requesting by the builder or coating the tank yourself if that's not an option. I actually sanded the rubber and light scuffing on the coal tar epoxy for better adhesion between the two and removed sanding residue first. reminder to electrically ground out the tank to the negative of the battery terminal or common ground, and never use bronze fittings on aluminum tanks for shutoffs and barbs as the dissimilar metal will eat the tank in short time due to electrolysis. I was told stainless is ok. thank you for the video!

imron is good but does not hold a candle to endura

minor note, awab hose clamps are better for below deck fuel lines, non perforated (stronger) and have rounded edges

what about using sea cast to fill in areas...

Rds in perry Florida is a great place to get a tank I just had them make one for my 1997 Cape Horn 19 a 80 gallon tank cost me 1k and they built it to my spec with a screw in fuel sender way better than the old 5 screw fuel senders