Great point on closed cell corrosion, extremely important, my 1973 ish 23 sportcraft tank held water next to the foam as the foam broke loose over the years the water was trapped and the tank developed hundreds of pinhole leaks. An explosion was adverted when I smelled gas one day took off the deck cover and gas was everywhere. Had the tank replaced and installed it similar to the way you did...Thank God on this one for sure. I don't think a lot of boaters are aware of this problem figuring its ok since they built it that way, BIG MISTAKE even today.Good job on the vid!

The perfect video for the information I was looking for! I was wondering where the green wire went from your tank to the filler hose. The boat I bought was from a guy that already had things torn apart some what so figuring out where it went back to has been fun thank you for putting this out there.

West Marine, ...sells Tinned Copper Strand. it's copper wire with a coating of tin, lasts forever!!! Especially on salt water trailers !!! I've used it for years on my trailer and boat !!! also use a brand of ""self amalgamating tape"" from Lows or Home Dippo, on all your open wire connections! last for ever!! You pull and stretch this tape before wrapping around almost anything, as you wrap it it binds to itself to form a solid rubber fused wrap, will never unwrap, is water tight, as it becomes one solid plug.......cut it with a razor to remove. It's as clean as the day you wrapped the wire.......

After reading a bunch of articles on installing my aluminum tank, I can say this video offers sound advice.. I also raised my tank out of the bilge a bit by sitting the neoprene pads (every 12-16" on trex board to allow water to drain underneath where it would have otherwise sat in contact with the tank. I attached the neoprene rubber using Life caulk (or use 5200 or 4500) to the bottom of the tank so no water can get in. My tank was coal tar epoxy coated, which is worth requesting by the builder or coating the tank yourself if that's not an option. I actually sanded the rubber and light scuffing on the coal tar epoxy for better adhesion between the two and removed sanding residue first. reminder to electrically ground out the tank to the negative of the battery terminal or common ground, and never use bronze fittings on aluminum tanks for shutoffs and barbs as the dissimilar metal will eat the tank in short time due to electrolysis. I was told stainless is ok. thank you for the video!

Neoprene has carbon in it, which is conductive. Dissimilar metals in an electrolyte creat galvanic corrosion. Which looks like pits and gouges. Make sure you face seal any pads totally. Aluminum when corroding is self protecting, by forming aluminum oxide. Very little of the metal actually is lost to oxide and relatively smooth. As occurs on outboard motors. This is the usual atmospheric type corrosion, but not galvanic corrosion. If you can get vinyl pads, all the better. My ‘92 Grady White had 1/8 inch thick strips of neoprene. The tank was coated with a very light primer. I removed the tanks in 2008 to clean and inspect, the only places where galvanic damage occurred was under the strips. On the bottom and top. Not deep enough to penetrate the 1/8 inch thick tank. I cleaned out the pits, cleaned up the strips across a belt sander to roughen a bit, then fully faced with Life-seal, reinstalled. In Feb 2021 I removed the same tanks to inspect, absolutely no corrosion under the pads in the bottom and no further damage to the existing pits. On the top, where I did add neoprene under a cross brace, there was some galvanic damage, say about 5 square inches total, none of it deep enough to matter. This area I didn’t face seal in 2008. I used a Dremel carefully to clean out the pits. I may apply a primer first. When I reinstall there will be no contact at this point with any bracing, changing the design fro original. I retired the small aux tank really don’t need it, will go back with the big 152 gal. tank only.

I would have coated the tank....coal tar epoxy (3-5 coats) or better. But other than that this guys offers good very informed advice.

@DIYBoaters Do you have a vent? And if so, where do I purchase one? Thanks. (trying to install an aluminum tank but it heats up and fuel goes out the carbs)

Working on my mako 224 fuel tank,getting rid of all the foam.thought of using starboard under tank using 3m 4200 to secure to floor and tank painting fuel compartment with flex liquid white to seal compartment for waterproofing. Painting tank with etching primer then painting with rustoleum marine gray

Great information, thank you.

A little red thread lock on the clamps is also a good idea Apply after u tighten them

Still havent put tank in mako 224 working on coffin hatch,access hatch .Thinking of installing some type of drain in coffin bottom along each side lowest point tee in the back to one flex hose to a 12 volt pump to external location to dump after each use

I sanded mine then treated with aluma prep and alodine then coated with epoxy. Also you could spray it with corrosion block

Good video on Aluminum tank install. However, in my experience the term used for lack of oxygen due to organic materials and foamed-in insulation touching the outside of an Aluminum Fuel tank, and usually holding moisture, is called Poultice Corrosion. As applied to Aluminum Fuel Tanks, crevice corrosion falls under construction of the tank and what to avoid in order not to trap debris and moisture between aluminum surfaces. Usually addressed by having welded joints using a continuous smooth bead, leaving no crevices to trap moisture. For marine corrosion reference I generally use ABYC standard training and "The Boatowner's Guide to Corrosion" by Everett Collier.

Rds in perry Florida is a great place to get a tank I just had them make one for my 1997 Cape Horn 19 a 80 gallon tank cost me 1k and they built it to my spec with a screw in fuel sender way better than the old 5 screw fuel senders

I see your fill has a 90 degree angle on it. I'm trying to refit my boat tank and putting a bend like that is my best option but I heard it slows down filling, and even stops frequency. Did you have any issues like that? Thank you!

DIY Boater, aside from the two hose clamps on the main (large fuel hose) did you do apply any form of sealant inside the hose to get a good leak proof seal, or are the hose clamps enough?

I notice your "drain" pipe is at the top (back) of the compartment. Did you make a new drain hole on the bottom? (I'm replacing the tank on an 84 mako 20c. It seemed that it was foamed in, with a built in foam canal leading to that drain pipe on the top back). I would like to try your method, but how did you address this drainage issue?

DIY, good advice on the tank - but do check the rubber bedding strips to make sure there is no 'free carbon' in the mix? Carbon is a metal with a galvanic differential to aluminum so you'd be making a battery if you used the wrong rubber to bed. The idea of 5200 as bedding/bonding isolation is sound but... the areas where that adhesive is used should be sanded or etched so the mill scale is gone- mill scale is galvanic and retains water vapor- not liquid but will promote corrosion flowers. All marine tanks should have #1 a water bottoms sump for pump out of 'tank bottoms' - OR a down comer fuel draw line that is very tight tot he bottom so the bottoms can be picked up into the fuel filter bowl(s). Also this tank is not etched so it will begin external and probably internal corrosion in few years- the explanation of crevice corrosion is accurate- but didn't include the mill scale which does the same thing- and tank bottoms will become De-aereated and acidic too. All 5000 series aluminum tanks should be acid etched, rinsed and flushed extensively before installation. It is best practice to slope the to in a camber or 'shed' style not to be flat like t his one- where condensate can collect on the tank top. Also fuel fill downcomer should got to within 1/2 diameter of pipe to the bottom plate to avoid burping, back slop on fill and bubbling fuel.

OK did you say you only use neoprene rubber only on the 4 corner or all on the bottom. Did you use any 2x4 to on it down too?

minor note, awab hose clamps are better for below deck fuel lines, non perforated (stronger) and have rounded edges

That pvc pipe that you have running, is that encase the area floods with water and they act as a drain?

Watched both videos- great job! Ive got my coffin clean and am right where you were on the first vid. Your thoughts on tank corrosion and not using foam are insightful.Where did you get your new tank? Have you had any problem with the tank shifting or screws loosening without the foam over time?

I want to add auxiliary tanks, what is your best. Suggestion to install these tanks?

What is the green wire conected to fuel hose?, ground?

good video, educational, I have question please comment, recently purchased a preowned 28.9 SEA SPORT on the first fueling had a very bad, scary experience, a very strong smell of fuel in the cabin, evidently the tank may have a hole in it. am not very experience with this problem therefore any advise will be appreciated, plan to replace the tank with a stainless steel, is that a good approach? the deck will need to be cut in order to reach the tank.. help will be much appreciated

Is there another way to hold the tank down, without the tabs/screws into the stringers?

OK then you say you only use neoprene rubber only on the 4 corner or all on the bottom.and you use treated 2x4 to chimmy around the tank?

yes that is correct.It is completely sealed in with a rubber gasket. Thanks for watching

GOOD VID, HOWEVER, I JUST DID MY 4TH BOAT REDO. I used 3 commercial restaurant grade drain rubber mats under the tank.

Thanks for the tip, I won't put any foam in :-)

what about using sea cast to fill in areas...

Question ground or bonding your tank to the fuel filler how is that wire connected to the filler neck?

looks great

Where is the tank physically located in the boat?

awesome video! did you use waterproof paint on your tank and what are those pipe around ur tank for, for venterlation?

I bought the boat in November. The guy I bought it off of said the original owner replaced the deck and notice the tank had a lot of rust so he pulled it didn't want to buy another so he just put the new deck in and just used a top deck tank. Plus side is it was nice to know I'm only the 3rd owner not the 10th lol. Should I send u my email over this?

great video- I have found that I've got multiple small punctate corrosion holes in my tank and need to replace it. Do you have any videos on throttle /steering disassembly to remove the center console to get to the tank? I have a 18 foot 1984 Mako

I am ripping through electric fuel pumps on my boat. I believe my anti siphon valve is the culprit. Some people say toss it, some people say dont be a fool. If my fuel line never drops below the tank, do I need it/ Do you have any advice for using an electric fuel pump on a marine system?

If you 5200 to the boat, how will you get the tank out if it needs to be replaced again?

Awesome...thank you. What kind of boat do you have?

did you 5200 the rubber directly on the fiberglass on the bottom of the boat directly?

Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'm in the process of installing a gas tank for a home made boat. I notice that you have what appears to be a ground wire connected to the tank and it's located between the fill line and the engine gas line. This may be a dumb question but where is the other end of the ground connected?

I have a 1993 Wellcraft V21 and im getting some gas on top of my tank and sender unit. I'm trying to see if its my hoses that are connected to the filler neck that maybe have some corrosion, because It only happens when I fill or when I just leave the gas dock and start running. Do you have any suggestions on what to do, and what gas hoses I should use ?

I plan on doing mine it's a 1986 four winns 190 horizon. Really can not find any dimensions on where to start.

very good

Where did you get this tank from

Hey bud I have a few questions about installing a tank on my boat. What kind of boat are u installing this tank on?

Where did you get the tank?? It is exactly like the one in my 1973 Mako I have lookied everywhere for one

We're ur tank sits is kinda like where mine would fit. Any way I could email you the pics of my boat maybe u can u would know ? Thanks for replying

question my boat mechanic guy is saying to use foam to hold my tank down im currently using a tank that's removeable but I wanna use my inboard tank y cant I foam to hold it down?

What's that black wire for near the green ? Can't fine any for mine.

question my tank iis roughly about that size whats the cost it?

How did you remove the aluminum fill pipe and vent?

Where did you buy the tank?

Paint the tank with coal tar epoxy before installation.

You should grease the whole tank. That would save it. And polish it.

Never epoxy the tank to the boat. It will need to come out eventually. There are other less permanent solutions. Epoxy the neoprene to the tank, sure.

I was told all metallic components should be grounded to the batteries negative.

OK then you say you only use neoprene rubber only on the 4 corner or all on the bottom.and you use treated 2x4 to chimmy around the tank?