Why did the other commercial interrupt this video?

Hi, I have to ask the best one, I saw that you create decals, you use some special program on the computer, I would like to create decasl in 1\64 for cars, please give me some advice. THANK YOU

Absolutely awesome job on an excellent paint scheme!

Subbed thanks. What’s the final coat you use for bare Aluminium ? Semi gloss varnish? Mine looks too dull with Matt over Vallejo silver base but too glossy with gloss varnish 😂

With your experience, do you think this would work on custom lego minifgures ?

I wished I would've ssen this 2 months ago, could've save some money on the Microsol decalfilm. Thank you for sharing!!

Another great video. 2 Questions. Would painting putty have worked also or is that for soft edge camo? Also, you mentioned a clear coat helping to keep the paint from peeling up when you peeled the tap up. Did I hear that correctly? If so please tell me more .

Poster putty easy peasy Japanesie! 😁 You just proved tamiyagawa products aren't fool proof!🙄 Jman

Awesome Build. 👍👍

Thank! Now I know where to start modeling with my son. And maybe do some other art projects after that 🌟

Looks great. I'll deffo get some of this.

Nice 😁

Turned out very nice.

I did this in 80s and 90s....used to paint a lot of model aircraft with 2 and 3 tone Vietnam Era camouflage colors....it worked a lot better than using masking tape. You did a super job with this masking...plane looks great.

The only problem is that the Extreme metal paint remains sticky permanently it needs a clear coat over the decaling

Great job. One thing you can do is do some paint chipping where the crew climbs into the cockpit areas and the canopy frame itself where it slides open and closed.

There's an old saying for what you put into it is what you get out of it and that's called patients and don't rush building the model beautiful modeling and well done

Great video, solid techniques. The "ghosting" you mention is tape adhesive. I avoid using even Tamiya tape on metal. I cut "Post It Notes" to fit. This adhesive is much weaker and requires working on only one or two areas at a time as the masks may lift if not watched carefully. Post Its won't leave that residue.

I have 1/18 F86 Sabre in the box and deliberating what colour to use

Great video! Clear, concise and understandable. Thanks very useful. Wish other posts were as beneficial.

Neat!

How does this behave with already assembled parts, a fuselage for example? Does it dissolve the glue as well? Thanks-

Phenominal job on the Saiun! One or two points. The C6N was a Nakajima design and manuactured by Nakajima. Nakajima used their own version of IJN Dark Green paint, which differed from the Mitsubishi Dark Green, Nakajima being more of a very Dark Olive hue, rather than the slightly blue hue in the Dark Green Mitsubishi paint. The Saiun did see active service, notably in the Battle of the Inland Sea in march 1945. They spotted the Incoming US formation and 2 were shot down, the other 6 escaping...

Just bought an old Monogram B-24J 1:48 kit from Ebay which I will paint with this method. Excellent tutorial!!! THANKS :)

I have rustoleum matte clear coat would that still be ok? Thank you for the video it was incredibly helpful!

Or you can use decal repair. Working well for me so far.

Really enjoyed the entire B-17 series. Thanks for these, and thanks for sharing your bare metal method.

That can of paint will last you 652 years!!

Actually, the bare metal finish on aircraft because more commonplace near the end of WWII til the Vietnam Era. This was because aircraft-like the P-38 Lightning and the P-51 Mustang followed by the early jets became so fast that the paint kept peeling off the aircraft! It became a cost issue to keep repainting aircraft. The faster the planes became, the worse the problem got. Then, they developed epoxy-based paints that stayed on. The Airforce initially didn’t mind so much because they figured speed and, in the cases of the B-29, B-36, etc., altitude would keep their aircraft safe but Navy welcomed this solution because seawater and salt are corrosive to metals.

Interesting. For years i been filling gaps with stretched spruce plastic. Streach to thickness of gap, add some Tamiya thin glue give it a second and shape with a toothpick. Minimal sanding required. Hope it helps too! 👍

Incredibly good idea, but small correction they haven't really made latex paint in about 20 years now as its all polyurethane or oil now. Don't use oil for this as acrylics cant bond to it. Also fun fact(can supply proof if needed to some extent), house paints are chemically identical to most hobby paints so you can thin them down with water and get a very similar result.

I just started my first plane in decades. Having this info will make things easier.

I used to grind up clippings and fill gaps with it and glue😂

This technique might also be applicable to flying models, where performance can be affected by the smoothness of airflow around eg ducted fans etc. Food for thought.

Hi, The problem with perfect plastic putty is that it dries in the tube pretty quickly and in my experience it works only in very thin gap (it shrinks a lot), I get the same result with cheap craft acrylic paint from Michaels. My filler of choice is Upol polyester glaze (for auto body), it's like a bondo but more liquid and easy to sand, it's cheap and it comes in an airtight "ketchup" type of bottle, with hardener, easy to use. I roughly mask around with house thick masking tape, it avoids unnecessary mess, specially in the panel lines and the thickness of the tape creates a thicker layer of filler to allow for light shrinking.

Grab some milliput, roll, press, apply, done. What are you doing my guy?

Great video! Thanks for this great tutorial.

Great tip. Thanks!

Absolutely amazing idea and result!!!

You should try the Spaz Stix ultimate mirror chrome paint. It is solvent based and is technically meant for polycarbonate r/c buddies but works really well for styrene models as well.

I saw this on a website, can't remember where but good to see this in video format

Yes!!! Helpful indeed. Thanks!!

I had the tape issue on a P51 i was working on. Was frustrating me every time i painted another color over it. Nose color, tail color, ainti glare strip. So once you vanish all the tape ghosting with the AK aluminum, then hit it with the base coat again, I should be good to paint the rest of the colors without the tape smoo showing back up then?

This has got to be one of the weirdest tips I've ever heard of on the surface (pun intended). But that works amazingly well. Will keep this in mind for my next aircraft build. Love your channel. Keep up the good work.

Clear and easy to follow explanations of "how and Why". This makes trying out new methods easier to attempt and takes the anxiety out of trying something new. Thank you.

Hats off to you sir and what a result! You turned an ugly duckling into a majestic swan. Brilliant attention given to a nasty box of tricks. Congratulations and thank you.

I tried this tip today and it works really well. I'm in the UK and I used Bedec Multi Surface Gloss White from Toolstation, which dries quickly. Great tip; thank you!

Sigh… This is a technique I personally developed like 20 years ago. I first used it on an F-16 build and sprung it on the modeling world and was excited! When I posted this technique, people called it “lazy” , and I should “just fill those seams like a real modeler”. Too funny after all these years it has caught on.

Too cool 😎

Hmmmmmm...........................Seems unnecessarily complicated....... Maybe he needs it to be for some therapeutic reasons