I can get the nut off, but my crank is welded on to spline. I removed it before, but it was a couple years ago and I can't remember how I did it.

Great video, however Campagnolo attached. a sticker to the back of the crank spider that specifically states " Use No Grease Under Bolt of Washer". They also recommend torque of 45 Inch pounds . Just FYI.

Really, interested to see the progress of this project!

That worked perfectly, thank you so much!

If you have six bolt hubs, get the Ashima Aineon rotors. I’ve run them with my piccolas for years and no problems. They are the lightest usable rotors and pretty readily available. I’m over 200 pounds and they’ve never had issue slowing me down while doing 3000ft plus descents. Should work great for your weight

A LOT of effort to drag this out over 10 minutes

My man was biking in a wood mill lmao that's wild

Gorgeous ... right up until you put SRAM-branded tape on a Campy bike :)

Thumbs up for buying the press from an American company and not cheap Chinese crap. Sorry CCP, no money for you here!

31.8mm stem clamp diameter are being discontinued. New bikes are now specced with a 35mm version

I see you’ve met my nemesis. The Rekon Race. Or, the one week tire, as I like to call it.

Very interesting video. And high quality content 🙂

This saved us a lot of cursing and knuckle busting - Thank You!

Just get a Hazet, Stahlwille or Wera torque wrench instead of those toys.

If you click more than once you're already over toqueing it. Also, hand position is very important, your's is all over the place. Remember to calibrate them once a year or every 5k clicks by sending the tool to a calibration company, not at a DIY setup at home.

I just picked up the Feedback for $100, but debated on the new Prestacycle TorqRatchet Go. It's got a range of 3 to 12 nm and is $60, but not a click ratchet. Interested to know your thoughts.

wow beauty of a bike. Really keen to get a campy mechanical build going soon, that crankset is perfection!

I came for the Ridley bike because I own a Ridley Kanzo myself and was intrigued by the 2000s road bikes because Ridley was quite young back then. And you surprised me much more than I could anticipate with a nostalgic flashback to my childhood. Thanks a lot for that, man!

I enjoyed this thoughtful video very much. Besides the attention to detail on the cleaning/restoration of the bike, the narrative of how early 2000s bikes represented something different struck a note with me. I own several bikes, ranging from 1975 to 2014, and while the early steel bikes are beautiful I sensed this change in technology 20 years ago, a push for innovation that is central here. Today I was riding a Colnago C40, which was in production from 1994 until 2004 (in itself pretty remarkable) and one had the sense that they wanted to go with that new wonder material carbon and went about it by essentially building a steel frame that was made of carbon--round tubes joined by lugs but just made from carbon rather than steel. It is a wonderful ride but I also have the first generation S-Works Tarmac from 2004, which is half carbon and half aluminum, as well as a Lemond from 2005 that is half carbon and half titanium. These experiments were not repeated although the bikes are great. People were trying everything. The Tour de France was being won on aluminum bikes, titanium was going to be the Next Big Thing, the Pinarello Dogma was made out of magnesium. It was all very exciting but still approachable. Now bikes are more complex, with electronic shifting, disc brakes, tubeless tires but are they more fun than that Ridley? And my newest bike is a custom steel Tommasini for which I was measured by the 80 year old whose name is on it. Campagnolo 11-speed and lightweight tubing but probably not much different from what people were racing in the 1970s. Maybe bikes are not always just bikes. Well done!

Awesome job bringing the bike some new life! I think these type of bikes are my fav for the everyday enthusiast. Rim brakes, threaded BBs, external cable routing, mechanical everything. So easy to service. Now I’m gonna keep an eye out for this frame as long as the seat post isn’t too short.

Thanks for the great video, do you have a link to the bearings? I want to try this but not sure which NSK bearings to use

Yawn. Kinda long winded. It's a t-handle. End.

I just lift the chain off of the ring with out breaking the chain much easier.

So I have NX eagle and have always disliked the play in the derailleur. It just slaps around. It shifts fine despite the noise. This is my first Sram MTB group-set. I have always had Shimano. Sram road/gravel is just amazing. No issues. I was able to source a GX derailleur cheap although, I have no idea how worn out it is. 1) would this upgrade reduce the chain slap/movement on NX? 2) would it be just better to go with this GX. I am thinking so.

Great video. Im currently deciding 42t to 38t on a gravel build. What u said about not utilizing lower gears.

Beware, the replacement kit did not "fit" my SX. I was barely able to install it but the bushing is a little wider than the original bolt and when I tighten it up to 6 Nm the mech was't able to rotate any more. Had a lot of trouble getting the "upgrade" bolt out and unfortunately had to go back to the original.

The Vibrelli looks identical to the Pro Bike Tool torque wrench.

Congrats! Bought a Tallboy 3 CC frame a couple a years ago. Greatest trailbike ever built imo. Stock front suspension is 120mm 44mm offset, have riding it both in 130 and 120. Right now Im rocking an 120 Fox factory with 44mm offset, its a big different, so if you have a chance to test with the right fork youre in for a suprise. The bike is so awosome Im lacking words. Its a supershredding xc all mountainbike.

Be advised all people with Ultra torque (UT) super record cranks: The super record UT crank use a reversed thread, and not the direction illustrated in this video. I learned the hard way after watching this. Now my crank bolt is rounded and I have to hand it in to a bike shop. Who nows if they can fix it.

Thanks! This really helped me

Greatly appreciate testing and comparison of these critical tools for bike riders/home mechanics. Unless it absolutely proves it's consistency between, across all measurements, in both A-A, A-B, A-ABC, B-A and start to finish measurements, I disagree that the tester used would provide anything approaching relative measurement accuracy. Since we are not privy to the values it recorded other than the ones used for comparison, it leaves me with nothing more than a general sense, or "tendency" vs. more solid data.

Thanks. This worked for me 10 min ago. Verified 👍👍🤟😄

Shimano XTR the best, I have the full M9100 groupset and it’s amazing

They're made in Bend Oregon

excellent video 👍

£405.80 if you're living in Britain 😮 Right!

I use the cheaper-looking Suron-style ones on mine. They were out before the Sur Ron, but they seem to have adopted it for their bikes now! The long five-LED I got with all different beams and a cool LED running strip at the bottom like Audis have is nice, but I had to buy a second, smaller version with the three-LED and strip LED running light as five was just too bright, lol! They last for ages and charge from a power bank if need be, never had to do this as yet, For £25 bucks, their amazing lights! the Magicshine 7000 is an amazing single light that might be better for the helmet! I can't stand a heavy helmet as it is, never mind a light up there causing more of a bobblehead effect whats the proce tag on these look expensive but then so do the ones i run and there not?

my GX AXS already came with an XX1 bolt

Thought you are a bigger creator from the quality of the video.

The stan's race sealant has the same issue. If your rim tape fails with stan's in the tire and you have aluminum nipples it's probably a good idea to replace all the nipples as there's unfortunately no way of actually removing the stans from around the nipples so you might as well get ahead of things before they become a problem mid ride.

Orange seal, good tape job, and brass nipples and your tubeless wheels will last a lifetime

I've been into mountain biking for over a year now, and at home bike maintenance and upgrading for over 4 years. I've never heard of this problem until now. Thank for the helpful information, and shame on those in the comments disrespecting you! 🙄

to much tool for simple removing BB bearings, and as usuall preparation is most expensive

What is the tool you used to interface with the torque wrench when tightening the brake hose? Very cool. Thanks!

Why is broddie hating on Jean the first minute of the clip? let him rock OG these the type of friends people should not mind losing. Hating on a broddie for having a bike...

Can you please provide a link were to get the spider meter or a complete description with model number?

Force 1x11 Non drive side will not come off. The drive end is getting stuck on the bb cap on the non-drive side...i.e., easily push through most of the way but stuck at the outlet...any ideas? thanks,

There's something about a backwards ball cap that screams incompetence. Bettng his problem has nothing to do with Stans.

Never trust anybody who recommends Mucoff, that's a shlt company.

It’s not as simple as all aluminum nipples will corrode. Anodized aluminum is resistant to corrosion. Stainless steel is also resistant to corrosion. Brass can corrode. When I was a construction insurance adjuster, we saw many failures with brass plumbing fittings and copper tubing that was made from inferior alloys. Too much zinc which is cheaper than copper. The zinc would dissolve in copper tubing leading to failures. Environmentally assisted cracking in brass fittings is also a problem. Agin from poor alloys where manufacturers substitute zinc for copper. I worked in bike shops in the 80s. Cheap wheels and some old wheels suffered from seized and corroded nipples all the time. The problem comes from low quality materials in combination with corrosive environments. In the days of rim brakes this was less of a problem because the rims wore out from braking pretty quick. Disc brakes allow rims to last far longer and corrosion of the components can become a problem. Build with good quality nipples and spokes and your wheels will last longer. A good tape job will minimize exposure to sealants. Plus for those that think it’s just the stainless steel spoke in contact with anodized aluminum, consider that the other end of the spoke is in contact with an aluminum hub flange. It’s more than dust the two metals. Hubs are not really exposed to sealants though unless one is really sloppy and there is no rim cavity to hold sealants in contact with nipples. Once agin use good components, do a good tape job and avoid potentially corrosive sealants.