Hi @Mubashiryasin7164, thanks for your comment, if you are sound deadening a wall with TecSound, I would recommend installing insulated battens over the top of the TecSound like I share in this video: 7 Ways to Soundproof a wall kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qK6FatCf2pyRqoE.html If you really do not have the space to install the battens, then YES, you may have to mechanically fix the acoustic sound bloc board to the TecSound but then glue the next layers in the way we show you in the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course. Is this for a party wall?...or a flanking wall? Hope that helps

@@jimprior7 many thanks for your prompt response! It is for the flanking walls - i will be doing the battons for the party wall but wasn’t sure how yoy get the insulated soundbloc plasterboard onto the tecsound. Also - is tecsound ok to stick directly to the bricks…as one suppliers website said it wasn’t but i know your vidoes suggest it can be. Thanks

Hi @ganeshayoga, If you have a quick look at this video about 11:26 mins in kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ebhnjdd7mMytYpc.html Is that what you mean ....or do you mean for Noisy Neighbours in an a flat or apartment?

Ah thanks guys, I thought you might like that one. 👍

Ah thanks Matthew, glad you are enjoying the videos. The rubber is mechanically fixed and also glued with the two different types of adhesive like we show you in the DIY course, glueing it in this way creates another resilient layer. Sand board and 15mm both also glued with the two different adhesive. No fixings required, which is why is gets really good noise reduction. Obviously you have to follow the 4 step method to get the best results. Have you checked out the Soundproofing Master Class yet… I’m running soon: jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/ In the meantime check out these: 7 Ways to Soundproof a wall kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qK6FatCf2pyRqoE.html And this one…the most expensive soundproofing: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ebhnjdd7mMytYpc.html Thanks for your question 🙏

Hi @t2thex21 For old cottages we use Rockwool RW3 (60kg/m3), it is a nice breathable sustainable product. Insulate between the floor joists and re-fit the floorboards if you have to refit the existing floorboards. (Alternatively replace the floor boards with a structural ply with expansion gaps and acoustic sealant glue and screw to squeaky joists). We find the best results come when we sound deaden those floorboards (or Ply-board) with a 10kg/m2 self adhesive TecSound if you are in UK or Europe. If you decided to use MLV, then use this between the floor joists with the Rockwool. MLV is pretty rubbish used on its own….ie on top of the floorboards….but use it in combination with other product like Rockwool then it gives noticeable reductions in noise. On top of the TecSound use a heavy duty underlay from one of the materials suppliers: www.floorscan.co.uk/product/acoustilay-15/ soundproofingshop.com/acoustic-floors/acoustilay-15-1-2m-x-1-2m-15mm-15kgm2-acoustilay15-12m-x-12m-12mm-15kg-222 www.soundservice.co.uk/quietfloor_plus.html Just one final point @t2thex21….do you have stud walls built on top of this squeaky floor? If you do maybe check the base plate is secure and the squeaking you are hearing down stairs is not coming from that. Have you seen this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gKifmsaL1d3Do6c.htmlsi=b_CiqqOc5dRYFsb0 Thanks very much for your comment….hopefully see you on the MasterClass jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/

Hi Josh, 12.32mins into this video explains the problem you have exactly: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ebhnjdd7mMytYpc.htmlsi=J1fAznh04oB6twLp The most cost effective way is to remove the dot and dab and replace it with an alternative wall coating. If you have Thermalite light weight block walls and you are on a budget then 25mm battens and 25mm Rockwool to all the walls. If you have a denser blocks or the old stone walls you could consider a sand and cement render to the walls if you are short of space. If you are less of a budget and don’t want to hear your neighbours anymore then I would watch this video a few times, book mark it and refer back to it a few times….and sound deaden the walls. Just note the key thing is the dot and dab walls in the walls adjacent, above and below will channel the noise back into the room you are trying to soundproof. Are you a DIYer….is this something you can do your self…maybe with a bit of guidance? Also here I the link to join me on the Soundproofing Master Class, its free to attend and what is quite refreshing….there is nothing to buy at the end, its just pure content and I hope you get value from it jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/

Thanks very much for watching, so glad you got value from it, it is a great question. It is not something we have tested in residential homes. However some bespoke projects we have done similar things. The main reason we build the floating frame like we show you in the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course is because of the load bearing. The frame is built with pressure and anti-vibration pads giving superior isolation and decoupling compared to the traditional stud frames. I think you could use a 2 x 2 timber and a 50mm RW3 but to take the load bearing you would have to secure the timber to the flanking walls, ceiling and floor and maybe even put noggins in a few places like a traditional stud frame. Saying that I am really intrigued to see how you get on. I have a couple of things for you….the first is The Soundproofing Masterclass I am running really soon….here is the link: jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/ And also...Check this video out: it show the thicker system and the thiner system joining between the upstairs bedroom and the downstairs lounge: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ebhnjdd7mMytYpc.htmlsi=J1fAznh04oB6twLp

Hey James, Part 2 video is done, recorded and is going out next week, I have also been working on a Soundproofing Master Class and loads of other content all kicking off in the later part of next week. 👍

@@jimprior7 great, will keep my eyes peeled, thanks. I am particularly interested to understand the correct way to block holes/seal gaps as mentioned in your video. Incidentally I recall either reading or watching something about vibrations being transmitted through party wall joists where they can even be joined to the neighbours, but as I can’t relocate it I’m wondering if I imagined it, or did you cover something to that effect? Do joists ever meet with the neighbours and can/should be separated or is that extremely unlikely/uncommon? There is one upstairs room in our house, which backs onto the neighbours bathroom, which is particularly bad and not only can you can hear conversations pretty clearly, you can also hear the water (pipes) being turned on and off, the toilet seat going down, creaking floorboards etc. I can only imagine there are holes up there, either below the floor or in loft above. I have yet to decide whether I’ll be doing a DIY job, I suppose it depends on the extent of what I find when I remove the floor, but does your team cover the Essex area? Thanks for the feedback

Hey James, Holes in the structure, you want to use sand and cement and some dense bricks for larger holes. Although most people think expanding foam is the answer, it offers airtightness and therefore only reduces the high frequencies getting in. For hard to reach small holes, use acoustic sealant. If your joist are running through to next door and you are unable to disconnect them. You could consider a floating floor. Using a direct to joist board which replaces your existing floorboard to save space. These products such as Deck 37, will reduce vibration through floor. We use this product when someone feels vibration from the neighbours such as walking around, sliding wardrobe doors and the most common…doors banging. With regards to your bathroom, it does sound like you have holes to hear that much so clearly. Just be mindful that you could have boxing in and hollow voids amplifying that conversation you are hearing. E.g: hollow area under the bath, shower and hollow floor void etc. If you have the skills and the tools, then The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course guides you step by step. I’m sure you will get a much better result DIY with the tried and tested method we teach you in the course than getting any builder or ‘soundproofing company’ to do it for you. Sorry, we don’t cover Essex for installation yet. Flooring: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gKifmsaL1d3Do6c.htmlsi=-DMy3DrDAIhWEFMq Holes and if you are short of time: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m9Oia9uV1sfcfZ8.htmlsi=T0EpPzlRhxATdd_P Thanks for your comment James, hopefully be working with you soon.

@@JamesBrown- The Most Expensive Soundproofing…But does it work? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ebhnjdd7mMytYpc.html

Join Jim on the NEW Soundproofing Master Class, it’s free to attend and what is quite refreshing….there is nothing to buy at the end, its just pure content and he hopes you get value from it. Here is the link to register: jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/

Hey Gazaantal3916, Thanks very much for watching glad you are getting value from my content. Such a great question, thanks for bringing this up…If the flue is lined or 150mm away from the rubber then yes you can use the rubber on the chimney stack. If not use metal studs. Any Heatas registered engineers reading this will be able to help me out and correct me on this, but here in the UK we can not use anything combustible within 150mm of the flue for a used chimney. There is a detailed lesson on this on the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing course. With the bedroom check this video out: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aruklsukksClZn0.htmlsi=ABdjFfu7M27yKyRt With regards to the bedroom, most of the time yes, to get that soundproofing of a detached house yes you need to tuck the system down, treat the floor, loft and flanking walls and sometimes the walls in other rooms. (I explain in next weeks video); However; do the ear on the wall test and test the flanking walls in that bedroom. Next time the neighbours are playing music…being loud and making noise, put your finger in one ear and the other ear on the flanking walls and listen….what do you hear? Might be the same volume next to the party wall but only slight the other side of the window wall…maybe watch the first part of this video again to see what you can put on these flanking walls. Hope that helps, great questions….please let us know how you get on. Also I’m running a SOUNDPROOFING MASTERCLASS real soon, look out for the email if you on the waiting list for the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course….what is quite refreshing is there is nothing to buy at the end, its pure content to help DIYers.

Hi @andreilup6023, where about you from? I might be able to suggest an alternative.

Hey @sounduser, Thanks for your comment, there is 4 or more lessons on this and the different layers on The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course....so you can imagine the detail required to treat the RSJ properly. I have this little short which briefly describe the layers: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gKyAd5p2rNfWfqs.htmlsi=WfVEm2hCiMWRbAgG RSJs are quite a common feature in a lot of my videos, mentioned in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q513iL15rrXdpas.htmlsi=41BvU3i8vO4XHUfu and also this one: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Zt1mfJOoqKeWfKs.htmlsi=J6fv-s7lEYD8WOqX Is your RSJ sat on the separating party wall??? If it is you really need to sound deaden, insulate it, install rubber and 2 layers of 15mm Sound Bloc Board. An RSJ is a main cause, which means it does not matter how thick your party wall sound insulation is....unless you address the main cause, then the noise will still come through. Hope that helps....let us know how you get on

Hi Jason, Thanks very much for your comment. There are a number of options and they are all featured in lessons on The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course (next intake second week of June 2024). Your awesome question and probably demands its own video…but I will try and answer it here. Assuming you are not comfortable moving the joist over because it will disrupt the room downstairs: - You could go over or past the joists using a thicker soundproof wall system, this would allow you to tuck the system down and seal the layers to the ceiling below. - To support the floor boards and renew the structural integrity of the floor, install a joists trimmer using noggins and a new piece of timber the same thickness as your floor joists…I will feature this in my next video -part 2 of this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jLt9ncKB18CrYZc.html - If you require a large load bearing next to the party wall, then install a new joist along side the existing would be best option (the ceiling board below won’t need to be connected to this) - If less of a load bearing is required and especially if the joists are close together you could fix 4 x 2 timber to the next joists to reduce the span of the floorboards. Please forgive me I have not seen your project, but hopefully this makes sense. Thanks again for your great question, less us know how you get on

Hi @TheWuzyy, great question sometimes we have to use metal frame for fire regs on some projects, however we find that sound is transmitted a lot easier through metal frames then timber frame…. or our other systems we use. We struggle to create our magic combination of MLV and Rockwool with a metal frame and also the high quality cinema rooms and home studios we build can not have wall shudder…which you get with metal frame. Hope that helps

Hey Paul, I’m not sure, I have not used them before, they look very dense. How much does the ones you are looking at cost? Are you in the UK?

They are around £60 per matt and yes in the uk the only downside is they are very heavy

@@paultaylor7479 Need to be a corky type of rubber like these: www.soundservice.co.uk/M20.html or www.floorscan.co.uk/product/m20-rubber-sheets/ or soundproofingshop.com/acoustic-boards/m20-rubber-panel?_gl=1*1m37jeb*_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwmrqzBhAoEiwAXVpgosRZaYcg54a8wofv13nHxCLqBy6jFfyxmQWf48EKutwWEpxtunsU7xoCfZQQAvD_BwE

Thank you very much

Hi Christine, If you are in the UK I would recommend a 10mm version of the M20AD panels something like this: www.floorscan.co.uk/product/db-matting-12/ and then glue the 15mm acoustic grade plasterboard on the way we show you in the course with the two different types of adhesive. We had exactly this issue this week, the next video I will be posting covered this and uses this method. I have a couple of DIYers on the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course that have used the mass loaded vinyl 30mm panels and found they just channel the TV noise into other rooms of the house and overall the noise feels louder so I would not recommend them, even though they seem like a logical approach for the space you have available. Don't get me wrong I think the 30mm panels are good used in the right way....but definitely not on flanking walls.

Hi Jim firstly thanks very much for the response. I will look into the solution (yes in UK). just to elaborate, I have a front room & dining room and two bedrooms upstairs. Both bedrooms have one wall where I can only get a 30mm solution. I have started the work and had the party wall in front room and 1st bedroom soundproofed by installing an independent stud wall system (stud with strips, acoustic wool,reductoclips, heavy vinyl and 2x acoustic plaster board). However this hasn't helped much at all. After researching and talking to my builder we realised it's likely flanking (a lot of kid's thumping and screaming still coming through) , and my builder said that the whole wall isn't covered by the soundproofing system since there is a void under downstairs floorboards and between floorboards on the first floor plus by the ceiling plasterboards there is a void as well. My thoughts are: 1) we need to cement and fill the gaps under floorboards by wall 2) at least insulate under floorboards by party wall (I have extra acoustic wool left over) 3) Fill gaps in ceiling at top 4) maybe leave off the coving at top and have another skirting at bottom or one not touching ground Unfortunately for the 2nd bedroom and dining room I have bought the materials already although this is the direct to wall materials (same as front room but no stud). Do you think it's worth switching the vinyl for the rubber at least? Hope above points sound correct. I will at least install the rubber and acoustic boards for the 30mm space issue and check the flanking paths at top and bottom of walls before soundproofing. Thank you Christine

@@ChristineWilde-db5xn Hi Christine, Thank you for your comment. We find this system channels the noise, it changes the way you hear the sound in that room …..but we find it channels the noise into the structure of the building because they don’t sound deaden the wall first. You wouldn’t believe how many enquiries and emails I get about this direct to wall system. Also, a traditional stud frame using traditional building techniques does not reduce noise like a floating frame does, you need more than 5mm isolation strips. You do need to use sand and cement for the holes. These are most commonly found under the floor boards, in the loft and behind door linings. Insulation reduces the sound resonating but ultimately forces the sound to change direction so tucking the different layers of the wall system down below the floor and above the ceiling would be best. Yes, switch the vinyl to the 20mm rubber, we find the 10kg/m2 mass loaded vinyl direct to the wall channels the noise, especially TV, conversation and music noise. Each room in your house will have different noise paths, which is why I say concentrate on doing one room really well first before putting those materials you have purchased on those other walls. Most common mistake 2023/2024 is buying a Clip, Channel Or Panel System Online And Trying To Soundproof Every Party Wall In Your House You will change the way you hear the noise, especially those higher frequencies. If you are stood directly in front of your new wall and your neighbour is directly the other side of the wall making noise it may feel like a 30% - 40% reduction in noise if you installed this type of thing to every room in your house with a party wall….but you will still hear the noise. ….And it only takes a slight bit of noise to come through for you to feel like moving again. If it was as easy as installing a clip and channel system to the party wall in every room in your house with a party wall…. 1. It would be an easy problem to solve and you wouldn’t watching my videos and searching through KZfaq for solutions. 2. Most builders and DIYers would be able to solve this problem as part of a house renovation 3. 2/3 of people in the UK would not suffer with unwanted noise in their homes 4. These fancy clips and channels and panels would be available at DIY stores, and builders merchants 5. We would not remove soundproofing attempts like this every week 6. And these clips and channels and thin panel systems would be part of building regulations The truth is neighbour noise does not work like that… The noise of your neighbour coming and going is in the whole structure of your house noise is coming from the floor, the ceiling and down these flanking walls. The neighbours are just living their lives…and the noise is rarely just directly through the party wall with you sitting directly the other side. I’m sure you have seen this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aruklsukksClZn0.htmlsi=feVigYZIm3XfCowK Sorry went on a bit there, most important things for you to do now in the front room are: Fill the voids under the floorboards with sand and cement Tuck any system up and down so covers the whole party wall Insulate the floorboards and ceiling joists Put your ear on the other flanking walls in that room before starting another room. For any new room you must sound deaden the wall first with 20mm rubber Let us know how you get on.

Thanks so much. I’m so surprised regarding the vinyl and clips. I researched for a few good months before deciding on solution and it seems that the internet is awash with the flex sound or heavy vinyl and clip systems. So confusing for customers :( Thanks for helping me try to fix this. So if I get the rubber for other rooms (I’ll sort out the front first and test that though), do I use the rubber with the clips system that I have? So this is what the system I have dictates: ReductoClips direct to wall, apply acoustic wool in between, acoustic plasterboard on top, flexi sound (I can replace with rubber), then another acoustic board on top. Also forgive the daft question 😊 but why use glue instead of the screws? Are there benefits to that? Thank you again!

Hi @tirconaill, we use mechanical fixings with the 50mm system. Also if you have dusty old brickwork. Still use the two different types of adhesive for that resilient layer and fix it in the way we show you in the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course. When you purchase them from the builders merchants the panels are sometimes called RR20. I know Travis Perkins call them RR20. Hope that helps 👍Spray contact adhesive bit.ly/3s82pjv

@@jimprior7 Thanks for your help Jim.