Hi, no, it does not work on diesel

I'm glad you found it helpful

Hi, mostly yes. EG and EK have different head and intake gaskets, however they both work but get the correct one for your motor. D15 has different rod bearing to a D16. EK motors has a thin MLS headgasket and EG had a thick "paper style" gasket

Mine is a d16 y4 from New Zealand. Thank you sir I'll get a d16 rebuild kit thank you

I'm glad you found them useful, even if just for a laugh

The board I made was only for the engine harness as I am using an aftermarket standalone ECU. The fuse box, chassis, and dash harness are all still in place and functional.

Hi, these are copy studs without lube or instructions, Real ARP studs are as follow Step 1......15ft lbs Step 2......30ft lbs Step 3......62ft lbs For the copy studs I used motor oil and 56ft lbs final

@@RisingBoostYT what do you mean by final?

@joseperez-zo6fr final is step 3, so I don't torque them as high coz china

@@RisingBoostYT ok so 13 30 56?

Hi, yes you can. Make sure the source wire is not too thin, earth the gauges well, a good test will be to connect your voltage gauge at the battery directly, then at the "in car" location, make sure there is not a big voltage drop between the reading at the battery and the reading inside the car.

@@RisingBoostYT thank you i got it :)

Hi, I did 33 ft lbs (as per the nthefastlane dot com website)

Yes CSS is the best, I had a "press in" block guard, but it fit poorly so I did not use it. CSS not an option for me in my country.

Hi bro, check for a universal spring compressor tool. Getting the retainers out is easy, getting them back in is a bit more challenging, a spring compressor tool will help alot.

Hi bro, these seats are both exactly the same. They have the adjuster on both sides, there is no left or right seat like an OEM seat.

Hi, after looking at both a vtec and no vtec dyno graph, 3700rpm was the best place to engage vtec.

@@RisingBoostYT Thanks for your reply. I asked because I´m concerned about the oil pressure when it´s hot (oil about 100℃）and the VTEC kicks in. Even that Hondata says it´s ok to set the VTEC at 3000 rpm if supercharged, and Defi (japanese gauge brand, known as Nippon Seiki also) says that 29 psi at 4000 rpm is dangerous (speaking in general) knowing that D16 hasn´t such risk factor in normal condition, I´m still wondering if setting the VTEC to a lower RPM could be a good idea; just that. Escepticism lol.

Oil pressure depends a lot on the condition of your engine and oil pump, oil pressure lower as clearances increase. 29psi is fairly low for "performance use" of a motor. try a slightly thicker oil, I use "high mileage" oil and get around 40psi hot at low rpm, but it goes up with rpm. also make sure a 3000rpm vtec will give you more power, vtec so low you could actually lose power. in my case vtec makes less power below 3700rpm.

Hi, no specific follow up, but the loom video was next - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jeBhm8Wc06yygp8.html&lc=Ugy2Ma454kglTJZX5-t4AaABAg

Hi, the grill has attachment points at the back around the opening that can take a small self tapping screw

@@RisingBoostYT you're right thank you, I'm also trying to cut up the eBay grill but having a hard time not making a mess 🤣👍

Here is some tips, heat up the grill so it won't crack as easily, use a hair dryer or put it in hot water. Use a good side cutter to cut out the majority of the grill while its hot. use a sharp stanley knife to cut it close to the edge. (very dangerous, always cut away from yourself) last use a file to smooth out the edges. that's how i did it.

@@RisingBoostYT Really helpful I'll be trying this. Thanks!

Hi, it should still work fine, mine is not connected to any ECU, the signal wire from the sensor go directly to the sensor wire on the gauge. also very important is good wiring to the sensor and gauge. use a relay to trigger power to both sensor and gauge, don't just tap into a random wire for 12v or ground. Grounds must be perfect as any voltage drop will affect gauge reading. do not ground to the fuse box pins or share a ground wire with anything else.

@@RisingBoostYT Thank you for your information, we used to try it somehow, but this time, it shows AFR at low speed, it does not show when I press the gas, if I go slow, it shows fine, depending on the gas response, but if I go fast, it remains constant at 20, why does it do this?

@ekremarslan3270 it could be maxed out lean, the narrow band sensors dont read accurate if it is far away from 14.7 so its to far away from that. Perhaps your setup running lean? Did you connect the sensor heater wires?

@@RisingBoostYT I installed it right at the bottom of the manifold, but I know it should be 1 meter after the manifold, maybe that's why it's not reading? All cables are connected but it still stays at 20 at high speed.

Does it just stay it 20 or does 20 flash on the gauge? it wont read if the sensor is cold. (2 white wires are sensor heat element) mine worked fitted directly after the turbo.

Hi bro, i'm from Gauteng, I don't make looms for people as I have a full time job, but i'll give you advice if you need.

​@@RisingBoostYT thanks bro am lucky cause am from Limpopo in Giyani and am frequently in and Joburg so i can come to your workshop to get some advice me too am working for the Government but there are some project which am doing on each every Sunday you can click on that picture to find out what's beneath that picture of my profile. am serious my mam i have a 2016 chevy corsa utility which need a detector man urgent. please help my brother.

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Hi Razeen, yes, the board has 4 holes in it. Poke the wire ends into the hole and solder both sides. Fold wire end double so it goes into the holes firmly

Shot buddy...so from there does it goes to the dizzy

Yes, after the Mag adapter it goes to the dizzy/pickup (the mag adapter and pickup sensor should not be far apart) also only magnetic sensors require a mag adapter.

Thanks buddy another quick it will i need a laptop to get the car to start

Hi, it does fit some other cars also, especially older japanese cars, but not all cars.

Well seen it here first! in my case it would be a massive waste of time, 5+ hours porting for 10hp gain,,,, or 3 clicks on the boost controller for 40hp gain in 1 second. idk, for my needs it looks like a big waste of time.

I'm glad you enjoyed it. Yeah, very easy to work on an now days evening Dseries are common and cheap.

Hi, I found it on AliExpress a long time ago, I have not seen it recently, however you can still get blue PW-JDM (passwordJDM) sets on eBay and Ali. they similar, just thicker.

@@RisingBoostYTAh, gotcha. Ok cool; thanks for your help!

Hi, what is wrong with the engine? smoke? blow-by? a very basic rebuild is new bearings (main/big-end/thrust), new piston rings and valve stem seals. also get a full gasket set so you can replace all the seals. that is a minimum, however there is a lot more, valve guides and valve seats (new valves if needed), Sleeve wear - sleeves bore oversize and new oversize pistons. cam and crank polishing, (cut if needed). new water and oil pump. it all depends on how worn out the engine is. normally a machine shop can measure clearances and tell you what is necessary to replace and what not. 300000 kms is alot but these motors can handle it. I have a 305000kms k24 motor that still runs like a dream, no smoke and not a single leak.

Hi bro, it depends on your country and engineering cost. For me, a gasket set was $70, and engineering was $150. However, I am from South Africa, and engineering could be x10 more expensive depending on your country.

Hi, it depends on the ZC version. If it's a sohc it will work, the vtec trigger is controlled by the ecu. So you need an ecu and wire to trigger the vtec on/off. There is a dohc ZC similar to the D16A9. It won't work on a dohc Dseries

Hi, for a carb setup yes, i think it will be helpful, its good if you get the AFR close, its just not accurate if its far off from 14.7

Hi, yes, definitely the best era, the fuel gauge in my car is super slow to respond, takes over a minute to move, idk why. Parts are fairly common and cheap, parts from Honda is mostly still available but not so cheap.

They fairly commom here, and there was a factory turbo model, they not safe but really fast modded

@@RisingBoostYT Amazing, they are in Eindhovem. I had a contact in the CR-Z Forum, with one of their friends. I am ruminating between 2 possible setup: - a Torqamp in the lovrevs, acting like my CR-Z IMA motor (initially strong then transition away revving up) - Torqamp as "fake Vtec crossover", to be used only above 5000 rpm (a short burst)

Yeah... kinda... in my defence, I pulled the motor in a field, like a savage.

Yeah true... I lost most of the footage, halfway into the video I had to buy new camera gear to continue. coz i'm from South Africa, and here you get robbed with a gun for a phone.

@@RisingBoostYT its cool mate. I just bought a Honda Civic 1998. Also got a D15 setup. Do you have IG or something. I'd like some advice on things i can do to not make it fast but a nice daily driver at the same time with a sexy clean engine bay. So if you can give me details on any bolt on mods i can do to the engine without having to atler anything then please i'd love that

Hi, thank you. I will go check it out!

Yeah, for like a 1/10 the price.

@@RisingBoostYT I almost found the EJ9.It's a 1.800euros donor car :-D That would free a lot of budget for my mods and the Torqamp

AEM is much better, the cheap gauge use a narrow band sensor so its only accurate near 14.7. The AEM is always accurate and trust worthy, don't rist your setup with a cheap gauge, its only good for getting a indication of afrs

@@RisingBoostYT thank you sir for your answer

Hi, yes EK and EJ parts are compatible, however per-facelift and facelift parts are not compatible. Only wing and rear lip fits all EK/EJ FL and PFL

Hi Bro, run the blue wire from the dicktator straight to your cluster rpm pickup wire. the blue wire is a rpm output, on older cars it will work connecting to the cluster.

@@RisingBoostYT it worked perfectly, thank you so much !

I'm glad you got it working

Also I found a rare Civic VTEC-E which is a 1.5 with a sort of eco-vtec, located 200km away

In my case, I fitted a very basic stand-alone ECU. that way I had full control over ignition timing and air / fuel. I did a video on installing it available on the channel.

keep in mind there is 2 versions of vtec-e, head-code "PO7" is a small intake runner head, bad for performance. but head-code "P2J" is a big runner head, meaning even though it is vtec-e it is still better than a non-vtec.

At the time after the 3de keeper went flying I definitely wished that I just bought the tool rather

In my opinion it is definitely worth it! easy cars to work on and parts/mods are cheap. all of the best if you do go ahead with it!

@@RisingBoostYT Amazing car base, I came from a CR-Z and everything is 3x. But I need to study some theory before to open an engine!

Stock engine yes, but added an eBay turbo kit, makes 189hp now. There is videos on the channel about the motor setup

@@RisingBoostYT Ok then I see! I was ruminating on buying a cheap EJ9 (stock) and trying the Torqamp installation. The idea was to use it late and simulate a VTEC engage!

@jolladevices interesting idea, if it's cheap enough, the amount you will learn from the project alone will be worth it.

It is a 12mm "bi-hex" or "12-point", must be Bi-hex or it wont fit, I had to go buy one myself, also a longer tube style will help.

@@RisingBoostYT appreciate the reply 🙏🏼 but yea I ended up figuring it out after buying a few others😂man I with they woulda put it in the instructions

@Unknowneg_ mine came with nothing, zero instructions, not even a name on the box, but they were cheap soo...