Perfect explanation

i think you can't compare two too differents rolls as velvia and portra, velvia is an inversible film and portra is a negative film, Velvia was made for Vivid and saturated colors , Portra was balanced for Skin with soft colors wich is more "green", but obviously everybody use them as they want

This is very helpful, thanks! As a newbie what do you recommend I do in the field? I feel like this makes sense when I see you do it. Would you recommend writing down the exposure times?

It would have been interesting to get the exact same shot. But very obvious is the highlights in digital are not forgiving any mistakes. The clouds on the film still had contours and in digital there is a grey mass. But I am sure with AI we can solve such problems with a one button process very very soon…or we can replace the entire sky….lol😂😂😂

By far the best explanation of the zone system I've watched. Well done, great video

한국어 자막 달아주셔서 감사합니다.

Great video

What a wasted opportunity! You are obviously not aware of the unique feature of this camera. .. the design feature that separates it from the others that copy the 6x12 roll-film concept. .. and I am not going to tell you.

Most outstanding…am in same place. Keep going!

Thank you so much!

Best video yet on zone system

Thank you!! I could not remember!

Great video man, Thanks

So what camera did you exchange it for?

100% old school!!!!

You have made the first video on KZfaq on the subject that is clear and understandable. Much better than the blabbering beard-wearing guys with their tattoos, that talk a lot but don't actually say anything.

I found this from English but there’s Korean Sub OMG that’s really helpful to me to understand film photography thanks a lot!!

You have a very soft voice. Reduce the music. Struggled to hear you.

Thanks man, this is a really helpful video as I'm trying to learn my 4x5!!

Yes

I love large format cameras but sadly, they are not consumer friendly. :-(

can you do a review on the summiron

Thank you Ryan! I thought I did it right but I forgot to tighted the film up with the lever on the left side of the camera. I was wondering why it wasn't moving for several shots. I thought I did something wrong but it simply that I didn't take the slack out.

Hmmm… Think you might regret that decision. I’m just about to pick up the new 907X 100 combo to pair with my LeicaM11P. I’ve sold favourite cameras in the past (mainly Leica)…. lesson learned!

Thank you for the most informational and helpful metering video I've watched. The zone system and placing the metered values on places along it creates a perfect understanding of how things will look in post, much better than my spray and pray with the in camera metering hoping it's what I want.

What lens is this?

Wow you’ve just made it really easy ! Thanks

Just sold my 907x also, def hurt but for how I shoot its just not usable enough for the money. Absolutely adored every min of owning it, but there is just something too slow about it for my taste. Mounted to my 500 cm it was amazing, but I can't lug that combo around everywhere. I'll prob buy one in the future but for now just not worth holding onto.

Great. Thank you for the Short lesson.

Thank you. I think that I fundamentally now understand this.

this has been the best explanation i've seen for the zone system. thank you very much!

Mate not sure where you are going. You have hiked into the mountains at the wrong time of day with hideous bright overhead light. You have taken three different camera systems with you. I suspect you are a gear head with little or no idea

I'm 70 years old. I began taking pictures 📸 AND loading my own camera just before I turned age 9. Never once did I ever imagine that the young people of "The Future" would need anything more then the page or two in a camera Manual 📷 to "Learn how" to put film in a 35mm SLR ! WOW ! ! ! Guess they really have succeeded in "Dumming Down" America 🇺🇸 🙄

I'm familiar with the zone system , but for newbies this video is by far the best explanation i've ever seen and doubt it could even be improved by anyone , you've done a great job .Thanks .

I've been watching videos like yours, but I couldn't understand them so after watching this video I can understand it now thank you for explaining it simply.

I think if you take Velvia 50 film and then converted to digital, you'd lose some fidelity from the true colors of the slide film. The see the more "true" colors of the Velvia 50 film, you'd need to observe it on a film projector onto a screen. This is the only "true and traditional" way to view slide films. So a few years ago, I experimented with this comparison, and found that the fuji velvia film (not converted to digital but directly projecting the slides onto a screen) looks more like taking the Provia (standard) digital film simulation and add some saturation to it. I found that the Velvia digital simulation colors are too exaggerated (in a bad way) when compared to the film version.

Thank you this is so helpful!

Lovely

All you photo vloggers are the same. First you make a video about how great the equipment is, that it is your best choice, that it is a dream camera and nothing can replace it, and then... after a few months you make a film about the reasons for selling it. This is embarrassing. You're not the first. This is the standard and it makes vloggers an unreliable source of information. 1) When you bought this camera, didn't you know it wasn't waterproof and dustproof? It's written in the manual. 2) When you bought this camera, didn't you know it wasn't waterproof and dustproof? It's written in the manual. I understand that if you don't know the prices, you shouldn't buy a Hasselblad...? This is really embarrassing.

Hi Ryan, thanks for this very good video showing how to improve light metering techniques using aspects of the Zone System. The Zone System, however, IS a “system”, and metering is just one part of it. We can’t really be using the Zone System (especially in Black and White) without considering personally developing the film and personally printing the negative to make your desired print. Most importantly, we can’t really be using the Zone System without first calibrating every aspect of the technical chain of events in our process (simple tests to establish your personal film speed - because the ISO on your film was established at the film factory, NOT in “your” camera (and SHUTTER!)! -; personal development time; proper proof) which will then help give a fairly CONSISTENT AND PREDICTABLE RESULT. This is the very *heart* of the Zone System without which our results will only be approximate. This is what permits a more accurate visualisation of the final image and ties seeing the original subject to seeing the finished print on the wall. … I hope this information adds to your great video. Anyone who wants to go further might also check out the video by the late Fred Picker of “Zone IV Workshop”, starting at 1:05:35. .. Cheers

Nice simple application of the zone system. I think the next tutorial should be on dynamic range and altering development times accordingly.

After a couple hours listening to ptretentious semi-popular youtubers trying and failing to explain this (maybe because they don't really understand it themselves) I stumble upon this video. Super easy explanation, some practical example and a little excercise so I can fix this newly learned information. Very well made vido that doesn't waste people's time with superflous informations.

Yes

Very confused ! since you loved it, why you have to sell it.

Recently acquired a No.3 Kodak from 1910, that used to shoot 122 roll (3.25*5.5" negatives) Going to try to 3D print up some holders, and cut down some large format 11x14" Ortho film in 6 sheets that I should be able to adapt to the camera. I'll have to load each "slide" in the dark bag manually, but I'm hoping for some really high quality negatives from it.

Hi Ryan , Nice work and very well presented video's! ! I have owned and used, as a pro photographer, since the eighties until today the The Linhof Technika.. It is without any doubt really a fantastic camera that is build like a tank. Having said that for "light travelling" I prefer my Sinar F2. It is a monorail and therefore it takes just a little bit more time to set up., but you can take it folded up, on the monorail, very easily with you. The big advantage of the Sinar is, apart from the much lower price tag that it is a 100% modulair system, that you can really use wide angle lenses with no problem at all and the Sinar F2 offers far greater and better movements than the Linhof. I do have a question: Which Tripod with which head do you use? Keep up the good work....

I was a fUji ambassador now Hass user - pro for 35yrs+ I goit the 907XCFV50c as soon as I could - I even bought the little useless optic - I was all in with the 45p - and thats where the problems began- however - it was all availed when I was recently shown the new 2,5 lenses and the CFV100c - I have traded for this instead - whilst Iwait the imminent arrival of the 100 the new XCD lenses are completely different to all of the other XCD's - they are sharper for a start - less distortion and just have a wow factor I can't even begin to describe - the 45p is a problem for Hass as most go for this baby lens - its a bit of one thing and a bit of another and not quite anything special - I urge you to try the new 100c with the 38mm 2,5 - it is mind numbingly exceptional in every way - as is the new 100MPX camera - I have used the chunky funky monkey Phase One a few times and I firmly believe the Hass X2D and the CFV100c will give even the Phase One 150MPx a good run for its money and both are lighter and and price comparison wise the Phase One makes no sense at all - now are the new Hass X series better than the H6D100c ? - mmmm thats a good one - I'm not sure - thats a camera I loved despite its various gremlins - but sold for portability and cool groovy reasons - Hass are on fire at present

MERCI POUR TES EXPLICATIONS CA M'A AIDE BEAUCOUP

Sad for you that you had to sell the camera but it's completely understandable! Those prices are outrageous! I wonder whether Fujifilm might make a similar form factor camera for their GFX series? That would be interesting. They also would be able to weather seal it because they wouldn't be trying to make it compatible with film cameras.

Thanks for sharing your experience! I just noticed that you listed the criteria when you were looking for a camera, you found this Minolta met all and then thought it was boring, does it mean that you didn't really know what you want? What would you say your criteria after using CLE? Personally I have the same ideas as you, I was looking for a camera which can meet: 1. Not too pricey. Leica in my opinion was designed to be a good and reliable tool, then they changed their mind to become a kind of luxury and got lazy with developing their technology. I am not very happy to pay the extra after knowing this. 2. M mount. Leica certainly has advantages, like being lightweight, and good optical quality. 3. Reliable but I do want a light meter. Shooting film is already so expensive now, I definitely want to have the meter so I can increase the chance of getting a good photo. I have digital cameras and I know exactly what I get after shooting a photo, but with film I won't know. Missing a good shot only because of the exposure can be tough for me. 4. Same as 3, I want to make sure the photo is in focus. I have a Konica Hexar AF, to be honest I love it. Maybe you will consider it another boring camera, but if I do street photography, auto focus and aperture priority can be super useful. However, sometimes I do want to have the option of checking if it's in focus, if I am not racing with the uncertainty. 5. Why I choose CLE rather than Hexar RF. I have a Hexar AF and I think it's good enough. RF is way too automatic, which makes me feel I might have less fun shooting with it. I consider myself as a photographer, rather than a camera collector. I do think the fun of using a camera is important, but the convenience plays an essential role in my experience. The only camera I will think can be a tool and a timeless art piece simultaneously is Rolleiflex 2.8F, other cameras are just tools in my mind. I might appreciate the design, but user experience is more important to me. That's why I choose CLE rather than M3.