Yeah that's a typo and I need to edit it somehow. It's supposed to say "do not go over 3500 PPM". That being said, I still don't like a break in oil that has over 3000 PPM. I've seen wrist pin, bearing, and all kinds of other issues with to much ZDDP. I also don't advocate for leaving it in the engine for more than initial "run in" in a race engine. I instruct my customers to get the break in oil out of the engine and change it before they race it. Period. As far as VR1 goes, your absolutely correct, it is not good enough for run in on a flat tappet cam. That's what I was saying in the video...Use a good break in oil and After the cam is "broke in" use a good oil high in ZDDP like VR1 or Driven. We build a LOT of flat tappet engines a year, and we just don't have cam failures using the same procedures and break in oils we have used for years. To tell you the truth, I am not a VR1 fan at all, there are way better oils out there. But a lot of my customers are stuck on VR1 because it's readily available at the local parts store and cheaper than Pen or Driven., however thats a topic for another video. So yep, I agree with you. I just haven't figured out how to fix it without having to re upload the video. Thanks for watching!

Depending on the application I normally use Clevite, sometimes King and ACL . This particular engine needed narrow bearings for the crank radius, so I used King race series bearings because that's what I had in stock at the time lol. but honestly King, ACL, and Clevite are all good bearings these days. for Nitrous and forced induction applications, I use King coated race bearings. They are very impressive and can take a beating like no other that I have used.

yeah I actually said in the first video it's really not worth the time, I was just mainly showing the procedure. Brazing works as well and I do braze a lot of cracks. I also weld them with nickel rod as well spray weld them. But to do that right you need to heat the block up and cool it slowly and most people at home just don't have the means to do that. However, you are absolutely right, I would have normally charged way more than the block is worth to repair it unless its a numbers matching block or something like that. It just made good content. Thanks for watching and commenting!

I don't see it a whole lot, and it's mainly in mexican cast blocks from the mid 80's but I do see it every now and then on US cast blocks from the same era.

Yeah Victor is basically all I use now. But they were on back order for a minute so I bought a few fel pro sets...big mistake lol

@@Marksracingengines I have the same problem at work. Usually all that’s available is felpro. My service advisor tries to order Mahle if it’s available, but usually it’s a couple days out. For some reason Victor Reinz is even harder to get. Last couple jobs I did felpro gave me unacceptable problems. I did a warranty valve cover job on a 3.6 pentistar and the gasket was too long and didn’t fit the channel in the cover. Also the spark plug seals are very hard to install because they are barbed and not smooth like the OE. I made a bolt press to install them. I also did a valve cover job on a crown Vic and same problem the felpro gasket was too long. I ended up bitching and my service writer to order me Mahle and they fit perfectly. I’ve lost a lot of money because of felpro gaskets. I hope their quality goes up because they are the most available option in the United States. Sad to see “made in USA” products be made worse than “made in china” products

@@TechsHelpingHand I've had about the same experience with fel pro. about the only fel pro's I do still swear by is their 1003 and 1004 small block Chevy head gaskets...but those are race gaskets and a whole different division of fel pro. I use Mahle when I cant get victor, I buy them from NPW/EPW but yeah I have to wait on them like you say.

yeah I saw that. Thanks. I thought I responded but Ive been out of it for a month lol

@@Marksracingengines no problem man!! Take care!

Thats the truth....

At work we call them Fail pro🤣🤣🤣

Yeah I do that sometimes as well. works good.

Well good for you my friend! Hey you should open a machine shop and build racing engines for a living! But before you do, I would certainly do a little more research on the subject and not troll KZfaq channel's and spew your ignorant Bullsh*t on a subject you know nothing about. I guess I've just been lucky the last 30+ years and over a thousand flat tappet engines I've built. BTW in 1996 there was plenty of ZDDP (BTW, it's spelled "zinc" not "zink") in off the shelf engine oil. So you didn't need any break in oil back then, and I never said to baby an engine..in fact, I tell my customers to put em in the car break the cam in and SEND IT! But hey Bless your heart and thanks for watching!

Yeah that's what I did this time.

is it for sale?

The guy has had it sitting in there for about 10 years after having done some work to it. I think it's a '96. I'm fairly certain he'd sell at a fair market price if he saw cash. I think it needs an oil pan but a small block makes more sense, right?

@@AdamDavidSoloman heck yeah or an LS lol

Got one for it? Do you guys build LSs? What's it take to watch your videos that come up here and say private or similar?

Those are actually Aftermarket Engine quest heads. Those are what that class of car has to run per the rules. They have both the later TBI and Vortec center bolt and early perimeter style valve cover bolt holes. a lot of aftermarket heads are like that. As far as torque. I snug the bolts first, in order. then I torque to about 45 to 50 ft lbs in order. then the last pass I torque to 70 ft lbs. SLOWLY pull the torque wrench, don't jerk it. stock bolts I generally use a little oil under the heads of the bolts and sealant on the threads. if you buy new vortec head bolts, they will already have sealer on them. if you use ARP, they need ARP lube under the bolt head and sealant on the threads. after you get them torqued down, just go over them in a straight line and check them. I've done thousands like this and never had a failure. I hope this helps. if you need more help, feel free to call me and I have no problem walking you through it on the phone. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Mark, thank you for taking the time for your detailed helpful answer. I understand now.

I'll be installing 059 Vortec heads on my 1985, 305 SBC. Never played with the Vortecs before good flowing 305 head from what I've read. Will use ARP head bolts because they are reusable.

@@Geoduck.Small block Chevy head bolts are ALL reusable. I'm not talking about LS stuff...I'm talking about all Small Blocks from 1955 until 1998. ARP bolts are awesome but they are pricey and not necessary for a 305 with vortec's unless you just want to spend the money. Please I urge you to watch my video on budget head bolts , and watch the entire video as I explain SBC head bolts and options. here's the link... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rslnntaVkrHYkoE.htmlsi=MhPiPrSeolWWv_7J

Once again..... thank you Mark. Saved me $$$. I'm retired so budget is everything.

Because that's what the customer paid for. yes there is a metal core neoprene gasket, I use them, all the time. And I can tell ya...they ain't worth a shit anymore either. point is gasket manufactures are not making quality gaskets anymore.

@@Marksracingengines ya i was waiting for this comment, lol people missing your point which is pretty much all gasket manufacturers quality has slipped over the decades.

I think Schubeck folded up a while back, I could be wrong about that. I haven't seen any in years. only used them in customers engines a couple of times. seemed to work great. I have heard of the foot shattering because the valve lash got to loose or a push rod broke and let the lifter bounce off the lobe. but I cant confirm it, never seen it in person.

@@Marksracingengines i think a company called 'Smith Machine' was supplying them after Scubeck went bust.

Never had a problem with driven break in oil and ring seal, however I only run it for initial run in and then it comes out. I don't recommend anyone running it for any length of time other than initial run in because it's not a great oil for anything But initial run in. We build a LOT of flat tappet engines a year without cam failure. And I love David to death, met him in person & talked to him on the phone several times...and I'm definitively not knocking his endorsements on Oil Extreme...I've used it several times and it does work. BUT it's dang near $200 and not as readily available. That being said, it is a good alternative system. There's more to any break in oil than just ZDDP and you are correct on that. However I endorse Driven BR because of the amount of success we have had with it. They pay me nothing and I get no discount on it other than the regular wholesale discounts I get on all my parts from EPW, Summit, Motorstate ect... The whole scope of the video was not just ZDDP and Break in oil, it's focus was choosing good parts, following a procedure that works for you ,and using good common sense practices in general when it comes to flat tappet cams because your absolutely right..."high Zinc never guaranteed anything". Thanks for watching and commenting!

yes yo can. But make sure you have some dowel pins and the head gasket to align them up correctly. the ones on the spark plug side go straight down. the ones on the intake side go at a SLIGHT angle towards the center of the head. Apx 15 to 20 deg but its not critical. I would only drill them if its a street driven engine that sees a lot of stop and go low rpm stuff. If it's primarily a race engine I wouldn't drill them at all, and in fact if it's a race engine I would plug the ones in the block as well....But only if it doesn't do a lot of idling at stoplights ect Thanks for watching, If I can help you in any way LMK.

@@Marksracingengines thanks, I actually am gonna use it as a daily since my 350 block cracked and I bought a 400 instead since I found out they can use the same parts, but the bottom is new so now I'm just gonna assemble the top and didn't wanna spend money all over again so your videos helped me out alot, thanks!

@@Marksracingengines also do I have to use a cam only for the 400 or can I use my 350 cam instead?

@@Texasmule anything that will fit the 350 will work in the 400. the only difference is the main size is bigger in a 400 and if its factory...the rods are shorter. but cam,heads ect will bolt right on. but do pay attention to the compression ratio. whats the chamber size of the AFR's? Tell me a little about the 400 you have.

@@Marksracingengines they are the AFR-1001 i believe and the 400 I have is .030 over from what the owner told me with flat top pistons and stock rods and crank