i was a union sandblaster/steel painter for 15 years and went to decorator after, i have worked in protective coatings at LTV steel, US steel, Inland steel, bethlehem steel, intech steel, and have relined huge steel storage tanks in tank farms all over the south and west of lake michigan. i retired to the philippines and built a house beside the ocean with my own 2 hands that was designed by me as well. my roof is corrugated steel, the 'wavy stuff' its rather thick and i had it trucked in from some distance. it's screwed onto 3/4 inch plywood resting on 2x6 'philippine mahogany' rafters every 4 ft on center with 2x2s as purlins (nailers) every 4 ft (but they are flush so not really perlins). I cleaned the sheet metal off with rags and MEK to remove any oily areas or dirt and primed it with 2 coats of iron oxide(both sides) before installing it.. after it was all screwed down i touched up any small scratches and screw heads then used white industrial enamel oil paint, 3 thin coats on that. that was in 2017, in 2023 i washed it down with soap and water and rinsed it well then hand sanded a few spots that looked like they may need it and recoated it with 2 more thin coats of white oil enamel. it still looks great and it has lowered the temperature in the house by reflecting the hot sun dramatically, you can touch any bare metal here at noon and it will burn your fingers. my roof feels like 65-70 degrees at noon. i have had zero rust(even beside the ocean) and zero coating failure and zero leaks. the temp here never varies too much staying between 65-95 degrees F so the expansion and contraction is not a problem , (and even less of a problem after painting since it stays between 65-75 degrees now! ). anything can be painted if you know what you're doing and use the correct materials. edit - i used galvanized screws with little rubber gaskets under the heads (dont over tighten and smash the gasket!)

The Oneida Dust Deputy XL that you used is rated for dust collectors that have 3-5 horsepower. The HF has 2. Has this translated to any issues for you? Do you have anything more than very small amounts of fine dust getting to your last plastic bag?

We have a metal building that we are adding stick framing to, for a canin. Would we be able to add this reflective barrier along with batt insulation to achieve proper R-value with less space?

building a home so that the roof is separate from the home, will prevent this issue. Think of the roof as a tree shading the house fully, and the house underneath, it has a 2nd roof to seal off home from outdoors. This way, attic is free to vent all that heat, home is shaded all day.

IT IS BETTER TO USE THE BARRIER THAT IS DOUBLE SIDED, SO IN THE WINTER IT KEEPS THE HEAT IN AND SUMMER KEEPS THE HEAT OUT

If these reflect heat back out, don’t they heat the crap out of the shingles and shorten thier life?

Here on pacific NW it doesn’t get very hot for long in summer or cold in winter. Very common to have no central a/c but there’s just a few weeks of 95-100 d , so I’m adding this product.

What is the name of this products

Radiant barrier which is silver on both sides is more efficient, since it lowers emissivity on the lower surface, and so reduces infrared transfer to the attic floor.

where did you get the 12" impeller

Definitely insulate your attic and your ducts more since they are in the attic. Can only help.

Does he ever blink?

I did this in our attic years ago when I was young enough to get around in there!! Also there was enough room to move around in there. I opted for going with blown in insulation in our next house. Zero help in my opinion. If I am feeling frisky I may try the radiant barrier and here. Thanks. It would be great to see your numbers for next September and compare.

Quick question.. when I tap on the link for the copper. It only gives me an option for the white copper. Is this the correct copper, is this the same copper you used in the video? Thank you so much for posting this! I'm ordering everything I need now.

Thanks for the scientific approach 👍

Great video! The exact information I needed. In depth and quick!

Great content. How do you know when your shingles are leaking?

Hi there, I am planning to put aluminum bubble insulation under the ceiling (leaving an air gap of 1.5 or 2 inches), so it would be wood /air gap /or aluminum bubbles. My intention is to reduce the radiant heat that comes from and through the wood (from the ceiling). Will this work? (I live in San Diego, not a humid place, but temperatures in summer fluctuate around 95 °F.) My second question is: what is going to happen within the airgap? Is it likely to generate humidity and potentially mold?

If there's a part of your house that isn't being cooled or heated properly-perhaps a child's bedroom or bathroom far away from your central HVAC, there's a useful technique to correct the problem. Overdo the insulation and foil for that room to better equalize the temperatures. Thick curtains in windows also help.

So just to confirm you have laid foil over your insulation and you have radiant barrier stapled to the attic? Is the foil you laid down perforated?

I've got attic foil on top of my blown-in cellulose insulation and it definitely helps. On a hot day the temperature under the foil is about 10 degrees less. Keep in mind that when it's placed on top the insulation on the floor of your attic the air gap is above it with only a small air gap provided beneath. When it is bouncing up is the radiant heat in hot the attic air. I have taken another step. To keep the heat radiating from my roof away from the floor of the attic I've also placed a wrap of 4-foot-wide attic foil around the base of my attic. That starts the heat radiating from the lower shingles moving up. On a hot day the air exiting up at the top of that foil is about twenty degrees hotter than the foil itself. That also creates a chimney effect as moving air moves other air up and out of the way. The one weakness is my house is that it lacks sufficient ridge venting, but at least I can push that heat upward where it eventually exits. One final remark. The foil I'm using comes from Attic Foil, which has a website with that name. It is very heavy duty. You can walk on it repeatedly without tearing. Also, for humid climates you can get a foil from them with holes in it to keep moisture out of your insulation.

What is the R value of the Radiant barrier that you used? How think was it???

Thanks for this video! I trust you as much as I trust your eyes not to blink.

If ducts have to be in the attic the first step is to eliminate as many air leaks as possible. The second step is to insulate better, most homes have at least R30 attic insulation but at best the ducts are R8. The radiant barrier is always nice to have as well but should be the third step. I spent 45 years in the HVAC industry and if building new today I would use the highest efficiency mini splits and build the home very airtight adding an ERV to introduce fresh air.

Can you post an update on this?

Please stop speaking with vocal fry. It is so grating to hear.

Dude, you gotta blink. Relax… spooky.

I was watching a video on KZfaq about HVAC ducts, he said ducts in attics is bad idea, temperature difference is huge in summer, R8 insulated ducts are not helping.

I have lived in a new housing estate (in Australia) for seven years. Every house that I have seen built has the roof sarking and wall wrap fitted with the coloured side out and the shiny side in. I addition the manufacturers advice says to do it this way. I am not prepared to argue the case but am simply stating that this is how it is normally done.

Quick to the point and clear instructions, solid video, thank you!

😢😮❤

Sounds like you need to insulate your ac ducting in the attic.

great video, you may want to check out a ductless mini split system when your real to improve your ac....

What ever happened to this channel, is it another channel lost due to covid

I've looked at about a dozen harborfreight dust collector mods and compared to everybody else you did everything right on this build.

Thank you this was very helpful. Thumbs up for the team! ❤

Can you give me name and specs of the air filter? Thank you. Good job,

What if I don't have a ceramic drill bit?

what were the order of the colors you used from the bottom to the top, please?

Thank you, know one believe me about the air gap ❤

I'm not allowed to use black due to policy, is there an alternative color that will work?

👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾

I have so many ceramic pots without holes in the bottom and I really wanted to know how to drill a hole without cracking them. This is precisely what I needed to know. You all rock!

Thanks this really helped

Nice video. I am thinking of doing this to not only learn where my electricity is being used, but also with a view to installing solar. This should totally help determining what size set up is needed and things such as minimum inverter size to cover the power when it's at it's peak.

Can you send me the colors you used I can’t find them on here

does it last

Been a bit since this was posted, seen your channel is not making many videos anymore. I would highly suggest using a FLIR (even if you buy it, check the areas, and return it soon after) to see if there are air leaks around your fixtures in the walls and ceiling, and even pull apart some of the insulation around the ducting to ensure that there are no leaks in the ducting itself. Checking you have enough soffit vents to ensure no air is being pulled into your house from outside by the heat rising to the top and pulling some air from your house into the attic. I also believe from what I have seen here on KZfaq it is better to have it directly over the insulation. They are made to be vapor permeable, however, if you have it over the insulation itself you ensure no air movement over the insulation that could reduce the R value by blowing through the top few inches. Hope all went well with this as I don't see really an update on it after 3 years.